Maldives. Tom Masters. Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Northern Atolls (p103) North & South Male Atolls #_ Male (p71) (p58)

Transcription

1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Maldives Northern Atolls (p103) Ari Atoll & Around (p94) North & South Male Atolls #_ Male (p71) (p58) Southern Atolls (p116) Tom Masters

2 PLAN YOUR TRIP Welcome to Maldives... 4 Maldives Map... 6 Maldives Top Need to Know What s New...16 If You Like...17 Choosing a Resort...19 Diving, Snorkelling & Surfing...30 Eat & Drink Like a Local...45 Independent Travel...49 Regions at a Glance ON THE ROAD MALE Sights Activities...64 Sleeping...65 Eating...66 Drinking & Nightlife...68 Entertainment...68 Shopping...68 Getting There & Away...69 Getting Around...70 NORTH & SOUTH MALE ATOLLS...71 Around Male...72 Hulhumale Hulhule Villingili North Male Atoll...74 Kaashidhoo Gaafaru Falhu...86 South Male Atoll Maafushi ARI ATOLL & AROUND North Ari Atoll...95 Rasdhoo Atoll...98 Thoddoo South Ari Atoll SHEN MAX/SHUTTERSTOCK YASHRIB/GETTY IMAGES TRADITIONAL MALDIVIAN CUISINE P45 CIRIL MONTEIRO/SHUTTERSTOCK REEF SHARK FEEDING P152

3 Contents UNDERSTAND NORTHERN ATOLLS Haa Alifu Haa Dhaalu Shaviyani Noonu Raa Baa Lhaviyani SOUTHERN ATOLLS Vaavu Meemu Faafu Dhaalu Thaa Laamu Gaafu Alifu Gaafu Dhaalu Gnaviyani Addu Atoll Maldives Today History Maldivian Way of Life Wildlife in Maldives Environmental Issues & Responsible Travel Arts, Crafts & Architecture SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A Z Transport Health Language Index Map Legend SPECIAL FEATURES Choosing a Resort...19 Big Creatures of the Deep...34 Independent Travel...49 Local Life...52 ONE & ONLY REETHI RAH RESORT P83

4 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 185 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Janet Wishnetsky, Janice Douthwaite, Joe Sinclair, John May, Josh Lockington, Nitzan Winograd, and Rinse Balk, Bastiaan Balk & Ilse Harms WRITER THANKS Tom Masters Huge thanks first of all to Moritz Estermann, who accompanied me on the first leg of this trip. Big thanks also to the scores of resort employees who helped me with my trip and went to great lengths to help me reach distant islands: you are way too many to thank, but know who you are. Big thanks also to Misbah, Shauna, Shamoon, Aziz, Paul, Basith, Clara, Richard and the whole team at MWSRP. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Aerial view of an island in the North Male Atoll, Sakis Papadopoulos/Getty Images THIS BOOK This 10th edition of Lonely Planet s Maldives guidebook was researched and written by Tom Masters, who also wrote the previous three editions, and curated by Joe Bindloss. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Joe Bindloss Senior Product Editor Kate Chapman Product Editor Sam Wheeler Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designer Gwen Cotter Assisting Editors Trent Holden, Tamara Sheward, Fionnuala Twomey, Maja Vatrić Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Ronan Abayawickrema, Jennifer Carey, Bruce Evans, Sandie Kestell, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Genna Patterson, Jessica Ryan, Angela Tinson

5 186 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index A Aarah 74 accommodation 19-29, 168-9, see also resorts, guesthouses, individual locations activities, see individual activities, individual locations Addu Atoll , 130 air travel airlines alcohol 16, 54 Alifushi 108 anemonefish 154 anemones 180 angelfish 154 architecture 166 Ari Atoll , 96 accommodation activities 95, 98, 100 diving 95, 98, 100 highlights 95 information 99 travel seasons 94 travel to/from , 102 arts ATMs 171 atoll formation 157 B Baa Atoll 9, , bargaining beach erosion 159 beaches 27 Artificial Beach 63 bends, the 99, 181 boat travel 54, bodu beru 13, 164, 13 books 134, boxfish 154 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 bridges 125 British Loyalty wreck 131, 30-1 budget 15 business hours 15, 172 butterfly fish 154 C call to prayer 53 car travel 178 cash 172 cell phones 14, children, travel with 18, 69, health 181 China-Maldives Friendship Bridge 16, 60 citizenship 145 coconut oil 165 consulates 170 coral 151-2, 157 bleaching 38 cuts & stings 180 crafts credit cards 172 culture currency 14, 171 customs regulations 148, 170 D dance 164 dangers 63 day trips 25 decompression sickness 99, 181 Dhaalu Atoll 121-3, Dhevvadhoo 125 Dhidhdhoo 104 Dhiffushi 75 Dhigurah 100 Dhivehi script 182 Dhiyamigili 124 dhonis 150, 166, 178, 8 diarrhoea 180 disabilities, travellers with 174 dive sites Baa Atoll 112 Banana Reef 78 Bodu Hithi Thila 78 British Loyalty wreck 131, 30-1 Broken Rock 102 Colosseum 78 Devana Kandu 117 Dhidhdhoo Beyru 100 Dhigali Haa 112 Ellaidhoo House Reef 95 Embudhoo Express 86 Erlangen wreck 86 Fesdu wreck 95 Filitheyo Reef 119 Fish Head 95 Fotteyo 117 Fushifaru Thila 115 Fushi Kandu 122 Giant Clam 118 Guraidhoo Kandu 90 Halaveli wreck 95 Hammerhead Point 98 Hans Hass Place 64 Helengeli Thila 75 HP Reef 78 Kakani Thila 112 Kuda Giri 86 Kuda Kandu 132 Kudarah Thila 102 Kuramathi House Reef 98 Kuredhoo Express 115 Lady Christine wreck 86 Lion s Head 64 Maa Kandu 132 Maaya Thila 95 Macro Spot 122 Madi Finolhu 112 Maldive Victory wreck 64 Manta Point (North Male Atoll) 75 Manta Point (Addu Atoll) 131 Milaidhoo Reef 112 Muthafushi Thila 112 North Male Atoll 78 Okobe Thila 78 Orimas Thila 95 Panetone 102 Rakeedhoo Kandu 117 Rasfari 78 Shark Nursery 109 Shark Point (Addu Atoll) 132 Shark Point (North Male Atoll) 75 Shark s Tongue 118 Shipyard 115 South Ari Atoll 102 South Male Atoll 90 SS Seagull wreck 86 Tiger Zoo 128 Two Brothers 119 Vaadhoo Caves 90 Vaagali Caves 90 Vattaru Kandu 117 Velassaru Caves 86-7 Veligandu Kandu 98 Divers Alert Network 181 diving 17, 20, 22-3, 30-44, 10-12, 30, 32, 37, 39, see also individual locations certificates 32 costs 36, 38 courses 31-2 environmental issues 38-9 equipment 36 insurance 181 safaris 32-6, 33 safety 181 Sea Explorers Dive School 64-5 seasons 32 dolphins 153 drinking 25-6, 45-8, see also alcohol drugs 171

6 187 E economy 147 ecotourism 22 Eedhigali Kilhi & Kottey Protected Area 130 eels 35, 155, 34-5 electricity 170 embassies 170 emergencies 15 entertainment 26-7 environmental issues 38-9, 84, etiquette 48, 54, 134, 170 exchange rates 15 Eydhafushi 109 F Faafu Atoll , family travel, see children, travel with Felivaru 114 ferries 54, 178 Feydhoo films 134 fish 153-8, see also individual species fisheries 161, 52 fishing 25, 53, 161 flutemouth 154 flying gurnard 155 food 17, 25-6, 45-8, 170 etiquette 48 vegetarian & vegan 47 Funadhoo 74, 105 Fuvahmulah 128 G Gaafaru Falhu 86 Gaafu Alifu Atoll 125-7, 126 Gaafu Dhaalu Atoll 127-8, 126 Gadhdhoo 127 Gan (Addu Atoll) 129 Gan (Gaafu Dhaalu) 128 Gan (Laamu) 124 Gasfinolhu 84 Gayoom, Maumoon Abdul gay travellers geography 160 geology 161 global warming 160 Gnaviyani 128-9, 126 Grand Friday Mosque 62-3 groupers 155 guesthouses 22, 50, 54, 169, 10 Gulhi 86 Guraidhoo 86, 124 H Haa Alifu Atoll 104 Haa Dhaalu 105 hammerhead sharks 35, 152, 11 Hani Kandu Hanifaru Bay 9, 109, 9 Hanifaru Unesco Biosphere Reserve 113 Hanimaadhoo 105 hawittas 124, 127, 136 health insurance 179 heat exhaustion 180 heatstroke 180 hedhikaa 45-6 Heyerdahl, Thor 128, 136 Himmafushi 75 history , see also individual locations 1988 coup coup 144 British influence conversion to Islam democracy Dutch influence Portuguese influence 137 Hithadhoo holidays hotels 169 house names 70 Hulhudheli 121 Hulhule 74 Hulhumale 72-4, 73 Hulhumeedhoo 130 Huraa 75 Huvadhoo Atoll hyperbaric chambers 99 I idolatry 148 independent travel insurance 171, 179, 181 internet access 171 internet resources 15 Isdhoo 124 Islam 53, itineraries 51, 51 J jacks 155 jewellery 166 jolis 165 K Kaashidhoo 85-6 Kadhoo 124 Kanditheemu 105 Kinolhas 108 Kolhufushi 117 Kondey 125 Kooddoo 125 Kudahuvadhoo 121 Kulhuduffushi 105 L Laamu Atoll 124-5, 126 lacquer work Landhoo 107 language 14, 182 legal matters 171 lesbian travellers Lhaviyani Atoll , lifestyle lionfish 155 literature live-aboards 169 luxury resorts 17, 27, 123 M Maa Kandu 131 Maafushi 11, Maamigili 100 Mahibadhoo 100 Maldives Whale Shark Research Programme 101 Male 13, 58-70, 59, 61, 62-3, 73, 13, 52 accommodation 58, 65-6 activities 64-5 children, travel with 69 costs 65, 66 diving 64-5 drinking & nightlife 68 entertainment 68 food 58, 66-8 highlights 60 history 59 information 68-9 safety 63 shopping 68 sights 60-3 travel seasons 58 travel to/from travel within 70 walking tour 61 Manadhoo 107 manta rays 35, 152-3, 9 Manta Reef 100 maps 171 Maradhoo markets 13 fish market, Male 62 produce market, Male 62 mas huni 45 maps 165 Medhu Ziyaarath 63 medical services 179 Meemu Atoll 117-8, Milandhoo 105 mobile phones 14, money 14-15, Moorish idols 155 moray eels 35, 155, 34-5 mosques Aasaari Miskiiy 119 Grand Friday Mosque 62-3 Old Friday Mosque 60 mosquitoes 180 Mulah 117 Muleeaage 63 Muli 117 museums National Art Gallery 63, 165 National Museum 60, 165 music 164 N Naifaru 114 Nasheed, Mohammed 134-5, National Art Gallery 63, 165 National Museum 60, 165 national parks 158 newspapers 146 Nilandhoo 119 Noonu North Male Atoll 71, 74-85, 76 accommodation 71, activities 75 diving 75, 78 highlights 72 sights 74-5 surfing 75 travel seasons 71 travel to/from 85 Northern Atolls , 106, accommodation 103-5, diving 109, 112, 115 highlights 104 travel seasons 103 INDEX E-N

7 188 INDEX O-T O Old Friday Mosque 60 opening hours 15, 172 P parks Rasrani Bageecha 63 parrotfish people photography 172 pilot fish 156 pipefish 156 planning budgeting 15 internet resources 15 Maldives basics Maldives regions 58-9 repeat visitors 16 travel seasons 14 politics 134-5, 147 population 135 postal services 172 Produce Market 62 Protected Marine Areas 158 Banana Reef 78 Edu Faru National Marine Park 107 Embudhoo Express 86 Fushifaru Thila 115 Shark Point (North Male Atoll) 75 public holidays pufferfish 156 R Raa Atoll 108-9, Ramazan 148, 173 Rasdhoo Rasrani Bageecha 16, 63 rays 35, 152-3, 9 reef sharks 2 reefs 44 recompression chambers 99 religion 135, resorts 17-18, 19-29, 123, 168 Adaaran Select Hudhuranfushi 81-2 Adaaran Select Meedhupparu 109 Amilla Fushi Anantara Kihavah Villas Map Pages 000 Photo Pages , 21 Angsana Ihuru Asdu Sun Island 75, 77 Ayada Maldives Bandos Island Resort 80 Banyan Tree Vabbinfaru 85 Baros 84 basics 24 Biyadhoo Island Resort 87 Cheval Blanc Randheli 108 Cinnamon Hakuraa Huraa 118 Cinnamon Island Dhonveli 81 Cocoa Island by COMO 90 Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu COMO Maalifushi 124 Conrad Maldives Rangali Island 101 Constance Halaveli Maldives 97-8 Ellaidhoo Maldives by Cinnamon 95 Embudu Village 87 Equator Village 131 Finolhu Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru 112 Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa 84 Gili Lankanfushi 82-3, 18 Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa 104 Huvafen Fushi 83-4 Jumeirah Vittaveli 90 Kandolhu Maldives 97 Kanuhura 115 Kuramathi Island Resort 98-9 Kuredu Island Resort & Spa 115 Kurumba Maldives 79 LUX Maldives Makunudu Island 80 Meeru Island Resort & Spa 78-9 Mirihi Naladhu Private Island 91-2 Niyama Private Islands 122 OBLU by Atmosphere at Helengeli 77 Olhuveli Beach & Spa 89 One & Only Reethi Rah 83, 2-3 OZEN by Atmosphere at Maadhoo 16, 91 Paradise Island Resort & Spa 80-1 Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa 127 pricing & supplements 24 Reethi Beach Resort Rihiveli by Castaway Hotels & Escapes 87, 89, 52 room types 24 Shangri-La Villingili Resort & Spa Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa 79 Sirru Fen Fushi 16, 105, 107 Six Senses Laamu 124-5, 5 Smartline Eriyadu 81 Soneva Fushi 113 Soneva Jani 16, St Regis Vommuli 16, 122 Summer Island 82 Sun Aqua Vilu Reef Sun Siam Iru Fushi Maldives 107 Taj Exotica 90-1 tips 23 travel seasons 24 Velaa Private Island 108, 18 Veligandu Island Resort & Spa 99 Vivanta by Taj Coral Reef 77-8 W Maldives 95, 97 responsible travel 163 Ribudhoo 121 Ritrella Cruise Hotel 16 rock cod 156 romantic getaways 17, roshi 45 S safari boats 33-6, 169, 33 safari cruises 22 safety 135, 173 diving 181 scuba diving, see diving sea snakes 157 sea urchins 180 seaplanes 177-8, 13 shark meat 161 sharks 35, 152, see also individual species Shaviyani Atoll 105, 107 shipwrecks 114, see also Dive Sites smoking 173 snapper 156 snorkelling 9, 17, 22-3, 39-40, 109, 40 safety 40 South Male Atoll 71, 86-92, 88 accommodation 71, activities 86-7 diving 86, 90 highlights 72 sights 86 surfing 87 travel seasons 71 travel to/from 92 South Ari Atoll diving 100, 102 Southern Atolls , 118, 120-1, 126 accommodation , 122-5, 127-8, diving , 122, 128, 131 food highlights 119 travel seasons 116 spas 23-5 speedboats 178 sport 149 stingrays 35, 152-3, 180 stonefish surf breaks 43-4 surf sites Chickens 75 Coke s 75 Guru s 87 Honky s 75 Jailbreaks 75 Lohi s 75 Natives 87 Pasta Point 75 Rip Tides 87 Sultan s 75 Twin Peaks 87 surfing 18, 23, 40-4, 81, 42 41, see also individual locations, Surf Sites surfing safaris 41, 43 surgeonfish 156 sweetlips 156 T tap water 180 taxes & refunds 172

8 189 taxis 178 teashops 53, 67 telephone services 14-15, Thaa Atoll 123-4, 126 Thakurufaanu, Mohammed 63, 104, Thilafushi 74 Thimarafushi 123 Thinadhoo 127 Thoddoo 100 Thulhaadhoo 109 Thulusdhoo 75 thundu kunaa 165 tiger sharks 35, 34 time 14, 174 tipping 172 toilets 174 Tomb of Mohammed Thakurufaanu 63 tourism tourist information 174 travellers cheques 172 travel to/from Maldives travel within Maldives trevallies 155 triggerfish turtles 35, 153, 34 U Ugoofaaru 108 Uligamu 104 undholis 53, 165 Unesco sites 109, 113 unicornfish 157 Utheemu 104 Utheemu Ganduvaru 104 V Vaadhoo 127 Vaavu Atoll 117, vaccinations 179 vegan travellers 47 vegetarian travellers 47 Veymandhoo 123 Villingili (Gaafu Alifu) 125 Villingili (Male) 74 visas 14, 174, 178 visual arts 165 volunteering 175 W water, drinking 48, 180 water, fresh 162 water sports 23 whale sharks 35, 101, 152, 12, 35 Whale Submarine 65 whales 153 wildlife women in Maldives 150 women travellers 175 work 175 wrasse 158 Y yachts 177 Yameen, Abdulla INDEX T-Y

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10 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 191 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Hut/Shelter Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

11 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITER Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Tom Masters Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most obscure places on earth, English-born Tom s writing career has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. After graduating with a degree in Russian literature from the University of London, his first writing job was with the St Petersburg Times. He went on to work at the BBC World Service in London, then as a freelance contributor to newspapers and magazines around the world. He also spent several years working in television documentary production. Based in Berlin, his most recent projects include guides to the Russian Far East, Central Africa and Colombia. You can find him online at Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition October 2018 ISBN Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs as indicated Printed in Singapore Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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