Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

Transcription

1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 339 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alex Sternick, Amira Elwakil, Ankerstjerne Rønneberg, Arie van Oosterwijk, Barney Smith, Basia Jozwiak, Bettina Voss, David French, Denise Hunter, Elizabeth Greive, Fabrice Cairaschi, Gregory Kipling, Helen Boxwill, Ido Gottlieb, Jan van Berkel, Jean Bayle, Laurence West, Lucy Moodie, Magda Bulska, Maria Junyent, Matthew Taylor, Nona Caulkins, Peter McFadden, Polly Compston, Raphael Hernandez, Roy Sells, Rupert Wilkinson, Simone Fischer, Stefan Kühne, Tajan Tober, Tesfa Gebreab, Timophey Chichkan, Wolfgang Gehring. WRITER THANKS Jean-Bernard Carillet A huge thanks to everyone who helped out and made this trip an enlightenment, including Wegene, Tania, Houmed, Dominique, Osman, Olivier, Sonja and all the people I met on the road. At LP I m grateful to Matt for his trust and support, and to the hard- working editors. It has been a huge pleasure to work with co-author Anthony, who shares the same passion for Africa. At home, a gros bisou to Eva and lots of love to Morgane, whose support was essential. Anthony Ham Special thanks to so many people in Ethiopia Tania, Cheru, Fre, Ingeda, Luigi, Françoise, Shif, Julia, Nick, Melako, Mohamed, Mulugeta and others. Wegene Temesgen was a wonderful driver, guide and travel companion. Matt Phillips continues to be a firm friend and fine editor and a man whose passion for Africa rivals my own. Huge thanks also to Jean- Bernard, another Africa friend and expert of long standing. And as always to my family who wait patiently at home for me to return gracias amores. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Hamar woman with copper bracelets, David Schweitzer/Getty Images

2 340 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 6th edition of Lonely Planet s Ethiopia & Djibouti guidebook was researched and written by Jean-Bernard Carillet and Anthony Ham. The previous edition was written by Jean-Bernard Carillet, Tim Bewer and Stuart Butler. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Matt Phillips Product Editor Paul Harding Senior Cartographer Diana Von Holdt Book DesignerJessica Rose Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Nigel Chin, Melanie Dankel, Jodie Martire, Jenna Myers, Monique Perrin Cartographer Hunor Csutoros Assisting Book Designer Michael Buick Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Kate Chapman, Catherine Naghten, Tania O Connor

3 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 341 Index A Abba Garima 107 Abba Jiffar s Palace 211 Abba Liqanos 102 Abba Pentalewon 96 Abba Yohanni 112 Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park , 140 Abourma Rock Art Site 322 Abraha We Atsbeha 111 Abuna Abraham 109 Abuna Aregawi 251 Abuna Aregawi church 106 Abuna Gebre Mikael 110 Abuna Samuel 251 Abuna Yemata Guh 109 Abyssinian lions 54 accommodation 20, 280-1, see also individual locations Djibouti 325 language 332 activities 18-20, see also individual activities Adaitu 184 Adadi Maryam 137 Adare houses 195 Addis Ababa 15, 30-62, 31, 34-5, 38-9, 44, 46-7, 15 accommodation 30, activities 42 climate 30 courses 42 drinking & nightlife 54-6 entertainment 56-7 festivals & events 42-3 food 30, 50-3 highlights 31, 31 history 32 information 58-9 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 itineraries 36 orientation 33 shopping sights tours 42 travel to/from travel within 61-2 Addis Ababa Museum 41 Addis Ababa University 42 Addis Alem 203 Adi Arkay 90, 91 Adigrat 107 Adwa Adwa, Battle of 105 Afar people 184, Afewerk Tekle s Home & Studio 40 Africa Hall 41 African Quarter (Djibouti City) 308 AIDS 301 air travel 290-1, 293-4, 328-9, 294 to/from Djibouti to/from Ethiopia within Ethiopia airlines 290 Aksum , 94-5, 97, 19, 244 Aksum stelae fields 98-9 Aksumite architecture 258 Aksumite coins 100 Aksumite kingdom Alatash National Park 85 Ambikwa 90-1 Ambo Amda Seyon 233 Amhara people Amharic language amoebic dysentery 303 Amora Gedel Park 143 Animal Market (Aksum) 102 animals 18, 273-6, see also individual animals antelope migration 21 Anuak Market Anuak people 219 Arabtu Ensessa Church 96 Arba Minch 156-9, 158 Arba Minch Crocodile Ranch 156 Arbatu Ensessa 125 Arbore 172 Archaeological Museum (Aksum) archaeological sites Abourma Rock Art Site 322 Aksum stelae fields , 98-9 Butajira 137 Dilla stelae fields 153 Dungur (Queen of Sheba s) Palace 101 Hadar 185 Melka Kunture 137 Yeha 113 architecture Adare houses 195 Dorze huts 161 Koremi 200 Ardo 319 Arfaide 163 area codes 17 Ari people 168 Ark of the Covenant 75, 94-5, 203, 229, 260 Ark of the Covenant Chapel 94-5 Arkwasiye 91 art galleries, see museums & galleries Arthur Rimbaud Center 193 arts 51, 254-8, 324 Asaita 186 Ashawa Market 187 Ashetan Maryam 125 asmat 252 Atatami Mikael Church ATMs 283, 326 Atsbi Cluster 112 Awasa 142-5, 143 Awash Arba 184 Awash Falls 182 Awash National Park 181-4, 182 Aweke, Aster 255 Awra Amba 74 azmaris 257 Azuwa Maryam 74 B Babille Elephant Sanctuary 200 Babille Market 200 baboons 273 Bahir Dar 67-72, 68 Bale Mountains 13, Bale Mountains National Park , 148 Banana Art Gallery Bankoualé Banna people 168 bathrooms 287, 327 Bati 131 Battle of Adwa 105 beaches 139, 308, 322 Bebeka Coffee Plantation 210 Bechu 209 Bedele 208 Bedele Beer Factory 208 beer 208, 268, 325 begging 110 Belai the Cannibal 251 Bet Abba Libanos Bet Amanuel 124 Bet Danaghel 123 Bet Gabriel-Rufael 124 Bet Giyorgis 121 Bet Golgotha 123 Bet Medhane Alem Bet Merkorios 124 Bet Meskel 123 Bet Mikael 123 Bet Uraiel 124 Bete Giorgis 73-4 Bete Maryam 73

4 342 INDEX B-D Bete Maryam Mausoleum Bete Mikael Church 187 Bete Selassie 74 bicycle travel 294, see also cycling Bilbila Chirkos 125 Bilbila Giyorgis 125 birds 274 flamingos 140, 179, 315, 318 birdwatching 18, 22, 138, 155, 273, 275, 277 Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park Awash National Park Bale Mountains National Park Boye Dam 212 Decan 315 Gibe Sheleko National Park 218 Lake Ziway 138 Simien Mountains National Park Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 155 Birgida Maryam 85 Bishoftu , 180 biting insects 304 black market 283 Blue Nile Bridge 67 Blue Nile Falls 81 Blue Nile Gorge 67 Blue Nile River 82 boat travel 295, 329 boat trips Blue Nile Outlet 72 Lake Ziway 138 books 222, 238 Borana National Park Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 155 border crossings 291-3, 329 Djibouti 291 Eritrea Kenya 292 Somaliland South Sudan 293 Sudan 293 Borena wells 156 Boye Dam 212 Bridge of God 156, 159 Bruce, James 82 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 budgeting 17 bull-jumping ceremony 21, 172 business hours 17, 284, 327 bus travel 295 business hours 17, 284, 327 Busso 163 Butajira 136, 137 Buyit Ras 90 C calendar, Ethiopian 287 camping 280 Canyon, the 309 car travel 296-7, 329 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals castles Royal Enclosure 78-9 cave art 190 caves Goda-Ajawa 190 Grotte de la Chauve- Souris 319 Hyena Den 182 Lega-Oda 190 Porc-Epic 190 Sof Omar Cave 151 cell phones 16, 327 chat 191, 266, 316, 324 Cheila 113 Chenek 90 Chief Kalla Gezahegn s home 163 children, travel with 325 Christianity 227, churches & cathedrals 37-40, 114, 8, 11, 12, 244 Abba Yohanni 112 Abraha We Atsbeha 111 Abuna Abraham 109 Abuna Aregawi church 106 Abuna Gebre Mikael 110 Abuna Yemata Guh 109 Arabtu Ensessa Church 96 Arbatu Ensessa 125 Ark of the Covenant Chapel 94-5 Bet Abba Libanos Bet Amanuel 124 Bet Danaghel 123 Bet Gabriel-Rufael 124 Bet Giyorgis 121 Bet Golgotha 123 Bet Medhane Alem Bet Merkorios 124 Bet Meskel 123 Bet Mikael 123 Bet Uraiel 124 Bete Maryam Mausoleum Bete Mikael Church 187 Bilbila Chirkos 125 Bilbila Giyorgis 125 Church of Abuna Aftse 113 Church of Debre Sina 85 Daniel Korkor Debre Berhan Selassie 77-8, 11 Djibouti cathedral 308 Dugem Selassie 110 Église Éthiopienne Orthodoxe Tewahido St Gabriel du Soleil Entoto Maryam Church 61 Gebriel Wukien Geneta Maryam 126 Greek Orthodox Church 187 Holy Trinity Cathedral 37 Kidane Mehret Church 41 Lalibela churches 9, , 228, 8 Maryam Korkor 109 Maryam Papaseit 110 Medhane Alem Cathedral 195 Medhane Alem Church 218 Medhane Alem Kesho 111 Mekina Medane Alem 126 Meqaber Ga ewa 111 Mikael Barka 112 Mikael Debre Selam 112 Mikael Imba 112 Mikael Milhaizengi Na akuto La ab New Church of St Mary of Zion 95-6 Old Church of St Mary of Zion 96 Petros We Paulos 111 Portuguese Cathedral 86 rock-hewn churches of Tigray 12, , 108, 12 St George Cathedral & Museum 36 St Maryam Church 203 St Mary Catholic Church 195 St Mary of Zion Churches Complex 94 Washa Mikael Church 36-7 Wukro Cherkos 111 Yemrehanna Kristos 125 Yohannes Maequdi 110 Church of Abuna Aftse 113 Church of Debre Sina 85 Cimetière Marin 322 cinema 222 civil disturbances 285 climate 16, 21-2 coffee 214, 267 Coffee Plantation 210 coins, Aksumite 100 conservation 85 consulates 281-2, 326 cooking courses 80, 127 Coptic calendar 287 costs 17, 280-1, 314, 325 courses cooking 80, 127 dance 42 language 42 crafts 324 credit cards 284, 326 crocodiles 156, 160 culture 18-19, 20, , 324 currency 16, current affairs 222-3, 283-4, 326 customs regulations 281, 325 cycling 294, 329 D Daasanach people 168 Dallol 119, 15 Danakil Depression 15, , 15 dance 42, 256 dangers & annoyances, see safe travel Daniel Korkor Debre Berhan Selassie 77-8, 11 Debre Damo 106, 261 Debre Libanos 66-7 Debre Markos 132 Debre Maryam 75 Debre Zeyit , 180 Decan 315 Dega Estefanos 75 Dekatu 163 dengue fever 300 Derg monument 40 Derg, the Desalegn, Hailemariam 222 Dessie 130-1

5 343 diarrhoea 303 Didesa Wildlife Sanctuary 210 Dilla Dilla stelae fields 153 Dimeka 173 Dire Dawa , 188 disabilities, travellers with 287, 328 Dittilou 320 diving Djibouti , 307 accommodation 306 arts 324 basics border crossings 329 climate 306 costs 309 culture 324 drinks 325 economy 323 environment 325 food 306, 325 highlights 307, 307 history language 309 politics 323 travel to/from travel within visas 309, 328 Djibouti cathedral 308 Djibouti City , 310, 312 accommodation 308, activities beaches 308 drinking & nightlife food 308, information 317 sights 308 tours 311 travel to/from travel within 318 Djibouti Road Dodola 146-7, 146 Dokatu Market 162 Dola-Mena 152 Dola-Mena Road 149 Dorze drinks , 325 beer 208, 268, 325 coffee 214, 267 tej driving, see car travel driving licence 296 drugs 283 Dugem Selassie 110 Dungur (Queen of Sheba s) Palace 101 dysentery 303 E Eastern Ethiopia , 178 accommodation 177 climate 177 food 177 highlights 178, 178 economy Église Éthiopienne Orthodoxe Tewahido St Gabriel du Soleil El Sod 154 electricity 281, 326 elephants 200, 220, 273 embassies 281-2, 326 emergencies 17 language Emir Nur s Tomb Emperor Haile Selassie 142, 235, 260, 262 Emperor Menelik 45, Emperor Tewodros Emperor Yohannes Empress Mentewab s Kuskuam Complex 79 Entoto Maryam Church 61 Entoto Mountains 61 Entoto Panoramic Viewpoint 40 environment Djibouti 325 environmental issues Eostateos 252 Equestrian Saints 252 Erer Gate Market 192 Eritrea 241, 291 Ethiopia accommodation Addis Ababa basics border crossings Eastern Ethiopia emergencies 17 history language Northern Ethiopia Southern Ethiopia travel to/from 17, travel within 17, visas Western Ethiopia Ethiopia-Djibouti Rail Yard 187 Ethiopia-Eritrea War 241 Ethiopian saints Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority 85 Ethiopian wolf 149, 13 ethnic groups 20, 168-9, 219, 245-7, 324, 12, see also individual peoples Ethnological Museum 32-3 etiquette 249, 268 European Quarter (Djibouti City) 308 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 17 F Falasha people 247 Fallana Gate Market 192 famine 243 Fantale Crater faranji frenzy Fasha 163 Fasika 22 Fasiladas Bath Fasiladas Palace 78-9, 262 Feres Magala 193 Festival of Maryam Zion 22, 102 festivals & events 21-2 Aksum 102 bull-jumping ceremony 21, 172 Fasika 22 Festival of Maryam Zion 22, 102 Leddet 21, 42-3 meskel 22 Timkat 12, 21, 81, 102, 13, 261 films 222 Filwoha Hot Springs 181 flamingos 140, 179, 315, 318 flora 278 food 14, , 325, 14, see also individual locations cooking courses 80, 127 Djibouti 325 etiquette 268 glossary language 333 foreign relations 223 Forêt du Day Forty Springs frogs 276 G Gabriel, Saint 252 Galila 85 galleries, see museum & galleries Gambela , 216 Gambela National Park 220 Gamole 163 Garima Gospels 253 gay travellers 282, 326 Gebre Kristos 252 Gebre Manfus Kiddus 252 Gebre Meskel s tomb 101 Gebriel Wukien Gecha 209 Geech gelada monkey 273 Geneta Maryam 126 geography 87, 272 geology 20, 87 Gersale 163 Gesergio 163 Gewane 184 Gheralta Cluster Gibe III Dam Gibe Sheleko National Park 218 glossary 338 Gobodura Hill 100 Goda Mountains 319 Goda-Ajawa 190 Gonder 10, 75-85, 76 Gonder architecture 259 Gore 209 Gorgora 85-6 Grand Barra 318 Grat Be al Gebri 113 Great Ethiopian Run 22, 43 Great Stele 99 Greek Orthodox Church 187 Grotte de la Chauve-Souris 319 Guder Gudit Stelae Field 98 Gurage people 246 gursha 268 H Hadar 185 Haile Selassie, Emperor 142, 235, hairstyles 250 Hamer people 168 Harar 10, , 192-3, 10 Harar Brewery 196 Harar National Museum 195 Harari people 247 Harla 191 hartebeests 141 INDEX -D - H

6 344 INDEX H- M Hayzo 161 health Djibouti 302, 330 Ethiopia heat exhaustion 303, 330 heatstroke hepatitis hiking 20 Bale Mountains National Park Djibouti 319, 320 Dodola 146-7, 146 Lalibela 126 Menagesha National Forest 217 Menz-Guassa Community Conservation Area 132 Simien Mountains Tigray history 18-19, 222-3, revolution & the Emperor s fall Addis Ababa 32 Aksum 93, 96 coming of Christianity 227 coming of Islam & the demise of Aksum 227 cradle of humanity 224 demise of the Derg 240 Djibouti Emperor Haile Selassie 142, 235, 260, 262 Emperor Menelik Emperor Tewodros Emperor Yohannes Ethiopia-Eritrea War 241 Ethiopian Middle Ages 228 Italian occupation Iyasu 234 Kingdom of Aksum Lalibela & the Zagwe Dynasty 228 Land of Punt 225 Oromo migrations & the Jesuits 230 postliberation Ethiopia 237 pre-aksumite civilisation 225 Ras Tafari rise & fall of Gonder Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 recent history road to Democracy ( ) 241 socialist experiment hitching 297, HIV/AIDS 301 holidays 285, 327 Holy Trinity Cathedral 37 Hosaina hot springs Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park 140 Filwoha Hot Springs 181 Lac Abbé 318 Lake Afdera 119 Mt Wenchi 206 Wondo Genet 140 hotels 280 Hyena Den 182 hyena feeding 196, 198 hyenas 198 I illuminated manuscripts 255 Îlot du Héron 308 Imet Gogo 90-1 immigration 288, 290, 328 injera insect bits & stings 304 Institute of Ethiopian Studies 40 insurance 282-3, 326 health 299 vehicle 296 internet access 283, 326 internet resources 17 health Irecha 22 Irta ale Volcano 119 Islam 227, 253 Italian Fort 218 Italian occupation Itang 217 itineraries 23-6 Ethiopia & Djibouti s Grand Tour 23, 23 historical circuit 25, 25 southern Ethiopia 24, 24 wild west 25, 25 Iyasu 234 J Jamia Mosque 194 Jan Meda Sports Ground 42 Jijiga 201 Jimma , 212 Jimma Museum 212 Jinbar Waterfall 88 Jinka John, Prester 128 jogging 42 Juma a Mosque 187 K Kafa Biosphere Reserve Kafa Coffee Museum 215 Kafira Market 187 Kangaten Karo people Kassahun, Tewodros 254, 255 Kebra Negast 256 Kebran Gabriel 75 Kenya travel to/from visas 288 Key Afar 170 Kibish 175 Kidane Mehret Church 41 Kiddus Yohannes 22 King Ezana s Inscription King Ezana s Stelae 99 King Gebre Meskel s tomb 101 King Kaleb s tomb 101 King Solomon s Gold 211 kitfo Kolcho Komaya Heart of Konso Cultural Handicraft Market 162 Kombolcha 131 Konso 162-3, 19 Konso Kantas Konso Museum 162 Korbete Metia 90 Koremi 200 Kosoye 86 Kulubi 191 Kulubi Gabriel 22 Kumsa Moroda Palace 207 L La Faon 309 Lac Abbé 10, , 11 Lac Assal 14, 318, 14 Lake Abaya 156, 26 Lake Afambo 186 Lake Afdera 119 Lake Asale 119 Lake Awasa 142 Lake Babogaya 179 Lake Bishoftu 179 Lake Chamo 156, 26 Lake Chelekleka 179 Lake Chew Bet 154 Lake Chitu 140 Lake Gumare 186 Lake Hare Sheitan 136 Lake Hora 179 Lake Kuriftu 179 Lake Langano 139 Lake Tana 72-5, 73 Lake Wenchi 206 Lake Ziway Lalibela 9, , 228, 9 Lalibela Cultural Center 126 Land of Punt 225 languages Amharic courses 42 Djibouti 334 L Arthur Rimbaud 309 Leddet 21, 42 legal matters 283, 326 Lega-Oda 190 Lephis leptospirosis 301 Les Allols 320 lesbian travellers 282, 326 L Escale 308 LGBTI travellers 282, 326 Lion of Judah Monument 37 Lioness of Gobodura 100 lions 54, 85 literature 222, 238, Logiya 185 Lower Omo Valley , 165, 12 Lucy 33, 224, 240 M Machekie 163 Mago National Park 170 Majang people 219 Malaria Mandaba Medhane Alem 85 maps 283, 326 markets Addis Ababa 40 Animal Market (Aksum) 102 Anuak Market Ashawa Market 187 Babille Market 200

7 345 Bahir Dar main market 67 Basket Market (Aksum) 101 Chattara Market (Dire Dawa) 187 Chencha Market (Dorze) 162 Crocodile Market (Nechisar) 160 Dire Dawa Market 187 Dokatu Market 162 Erer Gate Market (Harar) 192 Fallana Gate Market (Harar) 192 fish market (Awasa) 142 Gidir Magala (Harar) 194 Harar Jinka market 166 Kafira Market (Dire Dawa) 187 Kidame Gebya Saturday Market 79 Lower Omo Valley 171 main market (Aksum) 101 Merkato (Addis Ababa) 41 Monday Market (Bati) 131 Recycling Market (Harar) 192 Shiro Meda Market (Addis Ababa) 58 Shoa Gate Market (Harar) 192, 10 Smugglers Market (Harar) 192 Martyrs Memorial 116 Mary 252 Maryam Korkor 109 Maryam Papaseit 110 Maryam Zion festival 22, 102 masenkos 257 Masha 209 measures 282, 326 Medhane Alem Cathedral 195 Medhane Alem Church 218 Medhane Alem Kesho 111 media 253-4, 282 medical services 300 Mehelela 102 Mekele , 117 Mekina Girgir 194 Mekina Medane Alem 126 Melka Kunture 137 Menagesha National Forest 217 Menelik, Emperor 45, Mengistu Menz-Guassa Community Conservation Area Meqaber Ga ewa 111 Meskel 22 Metu Metu to Tepi scenic drive 209 Mikael 252 Mikael Barka 112 Mikael cemetery 196 Mikael Debre Selam 112 Mikael Imba 112 Mikael Meka e 111 Mikael Milhaizengi Mille 185 minibuses 297 Mitsele Fasiladas 75 Mizan Tefari mobbing mobile phones 16, 327 monasteries 72-5 Abba Garima 107 Abba Liqanos 102 Abba Pentalewon 96 Ashetan Maryam 125 Azuwa Maryam 74 Bete Giorgis 73-4 Bete Maryam 73 Bete Selassie 74 Birgida Maryam 85 Debre Damo 106, 261 Debre Libanos Monastery 66 Debre Maryam 75 Dega Estefanos 75 Galila 85 Kebran Gabriel 75 Mandaba Medhane Alem 85 Mitsele Fasiladas 75 Monastery of Abba Garima 107 Narga Selassie 74 Tana Cherkos 75 Tekla Haimanot 74 Ura Kidane Meret 72-3 Monastery of Abba Garima 107 money 17, 283-4, 326 monuments Derg Monument 40 King Ezana s Inscription Lion of Judah Monument 37 Lioness of Gobodura 100 Martyrs Memorial 116 Martyrs Memorial Monument 67 Mussolini s Stele 86 Ras Makonnen Statue 194 Sidamo Monument 143 Tombs of Kings Kaleb & Gebre Meskel 101 Yekatit 12 Monument 41 mosques 253 Hamoudi Mosque 308 Jamia Mosque 194 Juma a Mosque 187 mosquitoes 301-3, 304 motorcycle travel 296-7, 329 Moyale Mt Bwahit 90 Mt Wenchi 206 multiculturalism Mursi people 169 museums & galleries Addis Ababa Museum 41 Afewerk Tekle s Home & Studio 40 Archaeological Museum (Aksum) Arthur Rimbaud Center 193 Atatami Mikael Church 79 Banana Art Gallery Entoto Maryam Museum 61 Ethiopia-Djibouti Rail Yard 187 Ethnological Museum 32-3 Harar National Museum 195 Jimma Museum 212 Kafa Coffee Museum 215 Konso Cultural Centre 162 Konso Museum 162 Lalibela Cultural Center 126 National Museum 33-6 Natural History Museum 41 Ras Gimb 79 Ras Tafari s House & Sherif Harar City Museum Red Terror Martyrs Memorial Museum 32 South-Omo Museum & Research Centre 166 St George Cathedral & Museum 36 St Mary of Zion Church Museum 100 Wolega Museum 207 Wukro Museum 111 Yohannes IV Museum 116 Zeghie Satekela Museum 73 music Mussolini s Stele 86 N Na akuto La ab 125 Nagfa 309 Narga Selassie 74 National Archives & Library of Ethiopia 41 National Museum 33-6 national parks & reserves 275, 277, see also wildlife sanctuaries Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park , 140 Awash National Park 181-4, 182 Babille Elephant Sanctuary 200 Bale Mountains National Park , 148 Borana National Park - Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 155 Decan 315 Didesa Wildlife Sanctuary 210 Gambela National Park 220 Gibe Sheleko National Park 218 Kafa Biosphere Reserve Mago National Park 170 Nechisar National Park , 160, 26 Omo National Park Senkelle Swayne s Hartebeest Sanctuary 141 Simien Mountains National Park 86-93, 88-9 Natural History Museum 41 Nechisar National Park , 160, 26 Nechisar Plain 160 Nekemte 207-8, 208 New Church of St Mary of Zion 95-6 newspapers 282, 326 Nine Saints 109 INDEX -M-N

8 346 INDEX -N -T Northern Ethiopia , 64-5 accommodation 63 climate 63 food 63 highlights 64-5, 64-5 travel to/from 66 travel within 66 Northern Stelae Field Nuer people 219 Nyangatom people 169 O Obock Old Church of St Mary of Zion 96 Omo National Park Omo Valley Omorate 174 opening hours 17, 284, 327 Ophir 211 Oromo people 245 P painting palaces Empress Mentewab s Kuskuam Complex 79 Fasiladas Palace 78-9, 262 Kumsa Moroda Palace 207 Old Palace (Dire Dawa) 187 Palace of Abba Jiffar Palace of Iyasu I 79 Ras Makonnen s Palace 195 Susenyos Old Palace 85 Pankhurst, Sylvia 37 parks & gardens Addis Ababa Park 42 Petit Barra 318 Petros We Paulos 111 photography Pioneers Vision 166 Plage des Sables Blancs 321 planning budgeting 17, 314 calendar of events climate 16 emergencies 17 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Ethiopia s regions 27-8 highlights 8-15 internet resources 17 itineraries 23-6 language 16 telephone 16 travel seasons 16 visas 16 plants 278 Plateau du Serpent 308 poetry 197, 257 politics population 223 Porc-Epic 190 Portuguese Bridge 66 Portuguese Cathedral 86 postal services 285, 327 prehistoric sites 224 Prester John 128 Prince Ruspoli s turaco 275 public holidays 285, 327 Q Queen of Sheba 226, 248, 260 Queen of Sheba s Bath 102 Queen of Sheba s Palace (Dungur) 101 Queen Taitu s Palace 193 R rabies 303 radio 282 Raphael 252 Ras Bir Lighthouse 322 Ras Dashen 90-1, 91-2 Ras Gimb 79 Ras Makonnen Statue 194 Ras Makonnen s Palace 195 Ras Tafari 142, 234, 234-5, see also Emperor Haile Selassie Ras Tafari s House & Sherif Harar City Museum Rastafarian Community 140 recycling market 192 Red Terror 240 Red Terror Martyrs Memorial Museum 32 religion 223, Rift Valley lakes Rimbaud, Arthur 193, 197 road rules 297 rock art sites Abourma rock art site 322 Lalibela 9, , 228, 9 Tigray 12, , 108, 12 rock-hewn architecture 258 rock-hewn churches of Tigray 12, , 108, 12 Atsibi Cluster 112 Gheralta Cluster Takatisfi Cluster Tembien Cluster 112 Wukro Cluster Rome Stele 99 Royal Enclosure 78-9, 78 S safe travel 58, 285-6, 327 Said Ali Hamdogn s tomb 195 saints, Ethiopian 190, salt mining 120 Sankaber 90-1 scams 59, 286 scarification 174 Sebeta 217 Selassie, Emperor Haile 142, 235, 260, 262 Semera 185 Senkelle Swayne s Hartebeest Sanctuary 141 Seyon, Amda 233 Shashemene Sheba, Queen of 226, 248, 260 Sherif Harar City Museum shiftas 286 Shoa Gate Market 192 Sidama people 246 Sidamo Monument 143 Simien Mountains National Park 9, 86-93, 88-9, 9 singing wells 156 slave trade 213 Smugglers Market 192 snake bites 304 snorkelling 309 socialism Sodo 137 Sof Omar Cave 151 Somali people 246 Solomon, King 211 Sor River Waterfalls 209 Southern Ethiopia , accommodation 133 climate 133 food 133 highlights 134, travel to/from 136 travel within 136 South-Omo Museum & Research Centre 166 Southwest Omo Valley spas 42 stelae , 137, 153, 19 St George Cathedral & Museum 36 St Mary Catholic Church 195 St Mary of Zion Churches Complex 94 St Mary of Zion Church Museum 100 St Maryam Church 203 street kids 247 Surmi people 169, 26 Susenyos Old Palace 85 swimming 42 T Ta akha Maryam 102 Tadjoura Takatisfi Cluster Tana Cherkos 75 tape worms 304 taxis Teddy Yo 254 tej tej bets 55 Tekla Haimanot 74, 252 Tekle, Afewerk 51 telephone services 286, 327 Tembien Cluster 112 Tepi tere sega 266 Tewodros, Emperor theft 286 Tigrayan people 246 Tigray region , 108 Tigrayan rock-hewn churches 12, , 108, 12 time 286-7, 327 language 336 Timkat 12, 21, 81, 102, 13, 261 tipping 284 Tis Abay 81 Tiya stelae field 137 toilets 287, 327 Tomb of Nefas Mawcha Tomb of Said Ali Hamdogn 195

9 347 Tomb of Sheikh Abadir 195 Tomb of the Brick Arches Tomb of the False Door 97 Tombant Point 309 Tombs of Kings Kaleb & Gebre Meskel 101 tourist information 287, 327 tours 298, 330 language 336 traditional beliefs 253 train travel 298, 330 transport 17, Djibouti language travel seasons 21-2 travel to/from Ethiopia 290, travel within Ethiopia trekking, see hiking Tsemay people 169 Tullu Gudo 138 turaco 275 Turmi Tuto Fela 153 Tutiti 153 TV 282, 326 U Ura Kidane Meret 72-3 V vacations 285, 327 vaccinations Valley of Marvels 200 vegans & vegetarians 269, visas 288-9, 290, 328 volcanoes Danakil Depression 15, , 15 Fantale Crater Irta ale Volcano 119 volunteering 42, 80, 289, 328 W walking, see hiking Washa Mikael Church 36-7 wat water 304 waterfalls Awash Falls 182 Blue Nile Falls 81 Guder Falls 207 Jinbar Waterfall 88 Sor River Waterfalls 209 weather 16, 21-2 websites 17 health weights 282, 326 Weliso 214 Western Ethiopia , accommodation 202 climate 202 food 202 highlights 204-5, travel to/from 203 travel within 203 Weyto 174 whale-shark spotting 14, 22, , 14 wildlife 18, 85, 87, 272-4, see also individual animals hyenas 196, 198 wolves (Ethiopian) 149, 13 wildlife sanctuaries 275, 277, see also national parks & reserves Babille Elephant Sanctuary 200 Decan 315 Didesa Wildlife Sanctuary 210 Senkelle Swayne s Hartebeest Sanctuary 141 Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 155 wildlife watching 18 Babille Elephant Sanctuary 200 Wolega Museum 207 wolf (Ethiopian) 149, 13 Wolleka (Falasha Village) 80 women in Ethiopia 249 women travellers 289 Wondo Genet 140 work 328 Wukro Cherkos 111 Wukro Cluster Wukro Museum 111 Wunenia 86 Y Yabelo Yabelo Wildlife Sanctuary 155 Yared 252 Yeha 113 Yekatit 12 Monument 41 yellow fever 303 Yo, Teddy 254 Yohannes, Emperor Yohannes IV Museum 116 Yohannes Maequdi 110 Z Zagwe dynasty 228 Zege Peninsula 72-4 Zeghie Satekela Museum 73 Zobel s Mausoleum 80 INDEX T-Z

10 348 NOTES -

11 349 NOTES

12 350 NOTES

13 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

14 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Jean-Bernard Carillet Southern Ethiopia, Eastern Ethiopia, Djibouti Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, outdoors, archaeological sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six continents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guidebooks, both in English and in French. One of his favourite continents is Africa, which he has travelled the length and breadth of for more two decades and been thoroughly enlightened by 24 of its amazing countries. Jean-Bernard also researched the Understand Ethiopia section. Anthony Ham Addis Ababa, Northern Ethiopia, Western Ethiopia Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived there on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and not knowing a single person in the city. When he finally left Madrid 10 years later, Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent, was married to a local and Madrid had become his second home. Now back in Australia, he continues to travel the world in search of stories. Anthony also researched the Plan Your Trip, Survival Guide and Health sections. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition Sep 2017 ISBN Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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