Contents On the Road 4 Western Balkans Highlights 5 Destination Western Balkans 18 Getting Started 19 Itineraries 25 Snapshots 29 Albania 48 Highlights 49 Itineraries 49 Climate & When to Go 49 History 51 People 56 Religion 57 Arts 57 Food & Drink 59 Environment 60 TIRANA 62 History 62 Orientation 62 Information 62 Dangers & Annoyances 64 Sights 65 Festivals & Events 66 Sleeping 66 Eating 67 Drinking 68 Entertainment 68 Shopping 69 Getting There & Away 69 Getting Around 70 CENTRAL ALBANIA 71 Durrës 71 Kruja 73 Mt Dajti National Park 74 Lonely Planet Publications 13 Apollonia 75 Berat 75 Around Berat 78 Elbasan 79 Pogradec 79 Korça 79 Voskopoja 81 THE SOUTH & THE IONIAN COAST 82 Vlora 82 Llogaraja Pass National Park 84 Dhërmi 84 Drymades & Around 84 Himara 85 South from Himara 85 Saranda 86 Ksamil 87 Butrint 87 Blue Eye Spring & Monastery of St Nicholas 88 Gjirokastra 88 NORTHERN ALBANIA 90 Lezha 90 Shëngjin 90 Shkodra 90 Lake Koman 91 Theth 92 ALBANIA DIRECTORY 93 Accommodation 93 Activities 93 Books 94 Business Hours 94 Courses 94 Dangers & Annoyances 94 Embassies & Consulates 95 Festivals & Events 95 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 95 Holidays 95 Language 95 Money 96 Post 96 Telephone & Fax 97 Tourist Information 97 Travellers with Disabilities 97 Visas 97 Women Travellers 97 TRANSPORT IN ALBANIA 98 Getting There & Away 98 Getting Around 99
14 CONTENTS Bosnia & Hercegovina 101 Highlights 102 Itineraries 102 Climate & When to Go 102 History 102 People 107 Religion 107 Arts 108 Food & Drink 109 Environment 110 SARAJEVO 110 History 110 Orientation 111 Information 111 Sights 112 Tours 120 Festivals & Events 120 Sleeping 121 Eating 123 Drinking 125 Entertainment 126 Shopping 126 Getting There & Away 127 Getting Around 127 AROUND SARAJEVO 129 Jahorina 129 Bjelašnica 129 Around Bjelašnica 130 Konjic 131 HERCEGOVINA 131 Mostar 131 Around Mostar 138 Međugorje 139 Čapljina 141 Around Čapljina 141 Neum 142 Stolac 142 Around Stolac 143 Trebinje 143 EASTERN BOSNIA 146 Drina Valley 146 NORTHEASTERN BOSNIA 148 Tuzla 148 Around Tuzla 149 Srebrenica 150 CENTRAL BOSNIA 150 Visoko 150 Around Visoko 151 Zenica & Vranduk 151 Doboj 151 Around Doboj 152 Travnik 152 Around Travnik 154 Jajce 154 Around Jajce 156 WESTERN BOSNIA 158 Banja Luka 158 Around Banja Luka 160 Bihać 161 Una Valley 161 BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA DIRECTORY 162 Accommodation 162 Activities 163 Books 163 Business Hours 164 Dangers & Annoyances 164 Embassies & Consulates 164 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 164 Holidays 164 Internet Resources 165 Language 165 Maps 165 Money 165 Photography & Video 165 Post 165 Telephone 166 Tourist Information 166 Travellers with Disabilities 166 Visas 166 TRANSPORT IN BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA 166 Getting There & Away 166 Getting Around 167 Croatia 169 Highlights 170 Itineraries 170 Climate & When to Go 170 History 170 People 176 Religion 176 Arts 176 Food & Drink 178 Environment 179 ZAGREB 180 History 181 Orientation 181 Information 181 Sights 185 Tours 187 Festivals & Events 187 Sleeping 187 Eating 188 Drinking 190 Entertainment 190 Shopping 191 Getting There & Away 191 Getting Around 191 AROUND ZAGREB 192 Samobor 192 HRVATSKO ZAGORJE 194 Varaždin 194 SLAVONIA 196 Osijek 196 ISTRIA 199 Poreč 199 Rovinj 202 Pula 204 Around Pula 207 Pazin 208 Motovun 209 Grožnjan 210 KVARNER REGION 210 Rijeka 210 Opatija 214 Around Opatija 215 Krk Island 216 Rab Island 217 DALMATIA 220 Zadar 220 Around Zadar 224 Šibenik 225 Split 227 Solin (Salona) 233 Trogir 235 Makarska 235 Around Makarska 236 Hvar Island 238 Korčula Island 240 Mljet Island 242 Dubrovnik 244 CROATIA DIRECTORY 251 Accommodation 251 Activities 253 Books 254 Business Hours 254 Customs 254 Embassies & Consulates 254 Festivals & Events 255 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 255 Holidays 255 Internet Access 255 Internet Resources 255 Money 255 Post 256 Telephone 256 Tourist Information 256
CONTENTS 15 Travellers with Disabilities 256 Visas 256 TRANSPORT IN CROATIA 257 Getting There & Away 257 Getting Around 258 Best of the Balkans 261 Kosovo 269 Highlights 270 Itineraries 270 Climate & When to Go 270 History 270 People 271 Religion 271 Arts 272 Food & Drink 272 Environment 273 PRISTINA 273 Orientation 273 Information 273 Sights 273 Sleeping 274 Eating 275 Drinking 276 Getting There & Away 276 Getting Around 276 AROUND PRISTINA 276 Gračanica Monastery 276 Gadimë Cave 276 PEJA (PEĆ) 276 Orientation & Information 277 Sights 277 Sleeping & Eating 277 Getting There & Around 277 PRIZREN 277 Orientation & Information 277 Sights 277 Sleeping & Eating 278 Getting There & Away 278 KOSOVO DIRECTORY 278 Accommodation 278 Activities 278 Books 278 Business Hours 278 Dangers & Annoyances 278 Embassies & Consulates 278 Festivals & Events 279 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 279 Holidays 279 Internet Resources 279 Language 279 Maps 279 Money 279 Post 279 Telephone 279 Tourist Information 279 Travellers with Disabilities 279 Visas 280 Women Travellers 280 TRANSPORT IN KOSOVO 280 Getting There & Away 280 Getting Around 280 Macedonia 281 Highlights 282 Itineraries 282 Climate & When to Go 282 History 282 People 286 Religion 286 Arts 286 Food & Drink 287 Environment 288 SKOPJE 289 History 290 Orientation 290 Information 291 Sights 292 Festivals & Events 293 Sleeping 293 Eating 294 Drinking 295 Entertainment 295 Shopping 296 Getting There & Away 296 Getting Around 297 AROUND SKOPJE 297 Lake Matka 297 WESTERN MACEDONIA 297 Tetovo 297 Mavrovo National Park 298 Vevčani 299 Struga 300 Ohrid 301 Lake Ohrid Eastern Shore 307 Lake Prespa & Around 309 CENTRAL MACEDONIA 311 Bitola 311 Around Bitola 313 Pelister National Park 315 Kruševo 316 Prilep 317 Around Prilep 318 Tikveš Wine Region 318 EASTERN MACEDONIA 322 Kratovo 323 Around Kratovo 324 Berovo 324 Strumica 325 Around Strumica 326 MACEDONIA DIRECTORY 327 Accommodation 327 Activities 327 Books 328 Business Hours 328 Customs 328 Dangers & Annoyances 328 Embassies & Consulates 328 Festivals & Events 329 Holidays 329 Internet Resources 329 Language 329 Money 329 Post 329 Telephone & Fax 329 Tourist Information 330 Travellers with Disabilities 330 Visas 330 TRANSPORT IN MACEDONIA 330 Getting There & Away 330 Getting Around 331 Montenegro 333 Highlights 334 Itineraries 334 Climate & When to Go 334 History 334 People 338 Religion 338 Arts 338 Food & Drink 340 Environment 340 BAY OF KOTOR (BOKA KOTORSKA) 341 Herceg Novi 341 Perast 344 Kotor 345 Tivat 349 ADRIATIC COAST 349 Budva 349 Sveti Stefan 353 Petrovac 353 Bar 354
16 CONTENTS Ulcinj 356 CENTRAL MONTENEGRO 357 Lovćen National Park 357 Cetinje 358 Lake Skadar National Park 360 Podgorica 362 Ostrog Monastery 364 NORTHERN MOUNTAINS 365 Durmitor National Park & Tara Canyon 365 Biogradska Gora National Park 367 MONTENEGRO DIRECTORY 367 Accommodation 367 Activities 368 Books 368 Business Hours 369 Customs 369 Dangers & Annoyances 369 Embassies & Consulates 369 Festivals & Events 369 Food 369 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 369 Holidays 370 Internet Resources 370 Language 370 Maps 370 Money 370 Post 370 Shopping 370 Telephone 370 Tourist Information 370 Travellers with Disabilities 371 Visas 371 Women Travellers 371 TRANSPORT IN MONTENEGRO 371 Getting There & Away 371 Getting Around 372 Serbia 373 Highlights 374 Itineraries 374 Climate & When to Go 374 History 374 People 377 Religion 377 Arts 377 Food & Drink 379 Environment 380 BELGRADE 381 History 381 Orientation 382 Information 382 Sights 383 Activities 390 Courses 390 Tours 390 Festivals & Events 390 Sleeping 391 Eating 392 Drinking 394 Entertainment 395 Shopping 397 Getting There & Away 397 Getting Around 397 AROUND BELGRADE 397 Zemun 397 Smederevo 398 Golubac Fortress 398 VOJVODINA 399 Novi Sad 399 Fruška Gora 402 Sremski Karlovci 403 Subotica 404 Palić 405 Vršac 405 SOUTHERN SERBIA 406 Topola 406 Despotovac 407 Niš 408 Around Niš 409 Novi Pazar 410 Around Novi Pazar 412 Kopaonik 413 Zlatibor 414 Around Zlatibor 416 SERBIA DIRECTORY 417 Accommodation 417 Activities 417 Books 417 Business Hours 418 Courses 418 Customs 418 Dangers & Annoyances 418 Discount Cards 418 Embassies & Consulates 418 Festivals & Events 419 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 419 Holidays 419 Internet Resources 419 Language 419 Maps 419 Money 419 Post 419 Telephone & Fax 419 Tourist Information 420 Tours 420 Travellers with Disabilities 420 Visas 420 Women Travellers 420 TRANSPORT IN SERBIA 420 Getting There & Away 420 Getting Around 422 Western Balkans Directory 424 Accommodation 424 Activities 426 Business Hours 428 Children 428 Climate Charts 429 Customs 429 Dangers & Annoyances 430 Discount Cards 432 Embassies & Consulates 432 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 432 Holidays 433 Insurance 433 Internet Access 433 Money 434 Photography & Video 435 Post 435 Solo Travellers 435 Telephone 436 Time 436 Tourist Information 436 Travellers with Disabilities 436 Visas & Documents 437 Volunteering 437 Women Travellers 438 Transport in Western Balkans 439 GETTING THERE & AWAY 439 Entry Requirements 439 Air 439 Land 442 River 443 Sea 443 GETTING AROUND 445 Air 445 Bicycle 445 Bus 446 Car & Motorcycle 446 Hitching 448 Local Transport 448 Train 448
Lonely Planet Publications CONTENTS 17 Health 451 BEFORE YOU GO 451 Insurance 451 Recommended Vaccinations 451 Internet Resources 451 IN THE WESTERN BALKANS 451 Availability & Cost of Health Care 451 Infectious Diseases 452 Traveller s Diarrhoea 452 Environmental Hazards 452 Travelling with Children 452 Women s Health 453 Sexual Health 453 Language 454 Glossary 461 The Authors 463 Behind the Scenes 465 Index 472 Map Legend 484 Regional Map Contents Croatia pp172-3 Bosnia & Hercegovina p103 Serbia p375 Montenegro p335 Kosovo p271 Macedonia p283 Albania p50 Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.