ALASKA 2018 The Alaska Trip in July 2018 is loosely built around two sites. The first is the Wrangell-St Elias National Park. The second is Valdez and the nearby glacier which we plan to visit. We expect to spend the bulk of our time in the National Park. You can do a lot of research online but this document will give you a feel for what your options are. This is a very unstructured trip we are planning it this way so those who wish to walk/trek/climb can do that, while those who would like to be in a wilderness area but be more sedentary can come and enjoys the outdoors as well. This document is a summary of what McCarthy/Kennicott area offers. Introduction to Wrangell St. Elias National Park Wrangell St. Elias National Park is the largest in the United States - by far. One frequently quoted statistic is that it's 6 times the size of Yellowstone National Park. Here are few more comparisons to give you a frame of reference. o Glacier Nat. Park - 1 million acres o Yellowstone - 2.2 million acres o State of Maryland - 6.3 million acres o Switzerland (yes the country) 10.2 million acres o Wrangell St. Elias National Park- 13.2 million acres You get the idea - this is a really big place. Just across the Canadian border are Kluane National Park Reserve and Tatshenshini-Alsek National Park. The entire region composed of all three parks has been designated a World Heritage site and at 24.3 million acres comprises the largest internationally protected chunk of real estate on the planet. You could spend a lifetime exploring this park so you had better get started. Getting to Wrangell St. Elias National Park takes a bit of doing. It's about an 8 hour drive from Anchorage and the last 96km is a gravel road from Chitina to McCarthy. But that remoteness is what Wrangell-St. Elias is all about. Denali has become so heavily visited that it became necessary to institute a permit system to protect the backcountry from overuse. As a result, trekkers can't make plans in advance but are at the mercy of whatever sectors of the backcountry are available when they show up at park headquarters. Wrangell St. Elias National Park doesn't suffer from that problem. The lighter usage combined with stunning terrain make this the Wrangell St. Elias National Park the ultimate destination for those seeking an epic experience with truly remote wilderness.
Around McCarthy We will be based out of the town of McCarthy. Here s a view down the main street. Photography McCarthy itself is a "funky" sort of place (old-time Alaska, lots of old junk, odd people/buildings, "new-agey"), while the historic town of Kennicott is more touristy and national park-like. There is enormous scope for the camera to be pointed in all sorts of interesting places. If all you did was spend your time here with the camera it would be unique time, well spent. The NPS provides a wide range of free public tours that typically last 30-60 minutes and don't require too much walking. These include walks down Main Street, where you'll learn about each building and hear what life was like during the town's heyday. You also might
find yourself with a naturalist, who will take you a little ways outside of town to identify local native plants, trees, and flowers. Check in at the kiosk or visitor center. The iconic view in Kennicott is the giant red mill building from the old Kennecott Copper Company, which stands 14 stories above the Kennicott glacier (the different spellings are due to clerical mistakes on official paperwork a century ago). You need a guide to explore inside the actual building. There are numerous other buildings and sites which can be explored. Adventure Activities These will cost extra. Activities such as Kennicott Wilderness Guides Packrafting Tours if five of us do this the cost will be USD130 per person. This new sport was born in Alaska. It incorporates a lightweight, inflatable, personal raft, paddle and drysuit and allows unprecedented access to the wilderness of Alaska.
Now you can learn to packraft with Kennicott Wilderness Guides in one of the most unique places on the planet! This is a full day of adventure, crafted to teach the basic skills of packrafting and then have fun with those skills. You ll begin with the boats packed on your backs (they re under 9 pounds and can fit in a day bag) as you take an interpretative walk along a lake that marks the end of a 43km glacier. Then, you ll get into the boats in this lake with views of a 7,000-foot icefall, paddle around amidst icebergs, and learn to use these unique boats in Class I II water with the possibilities of running some class III rapids. Or You can choose between two day trips, appropriate for anyone ages 8 to 75 or older (Prices vary from USD95.00 to USD130 per activity). 4-Hour Kennicott Glacial Lake Inflatable Tour: This relaxing, four-hour tour focuses on a novel segment of nature literally. This lake has only formed in the past 20 years or so, so its scenery is constantly changing but you can count on seeing plenty of icebergs in the lake. The trip includes the use of either an inflatable Kayak or Stand Up Paddle Board: you ll paddle around, learn about history of the area, and talk about glaciation, as well as learn about life in McCarthy. Experience the ever changing scenery of Kennicott Glacier Lake 4-Hour Kennicott Glacier Lake & River Rafts: This tour is also four hours, spending time on Kennicott Glacial Lake. But you also get some thrills during an hour-long stretch on the Kennicott River, a wide, high-volume glacial river. You ll start with class-3 rapids (expect to get wet) and then go on a stretch of relaxing class 2, giving you time to check out the glacier shoreline, Chugach and Wrangell mountains. As Nik would say, if this trip had a soundtrack, the first half would be John Denver (as in Rocky Mountain High ) and the second half, Black Sabbath. Calm Waters, Sunny Skies Beginners will like that, in the lake-plus-river trip, you get some lake time to get used to the boat before the thrill ride begins. But in general, if you want a gentle ride, take your tour in the morning, when the water is at is calmest, and the sun reflects nicely off the water (afternoons, meanwhile, get points for a few more thrills, and being a little warmer). Otherwise, Nik tells customers to dress in layers (nothing too bulky), bring a water bottle, and come about 15 minutes early to get fitted with a dry suit, helmet, flotation device, and river shoes, before you get shuttled down to the lake. And so on and so on. Heaps to do, or simply put your feet up with a good book.
Activities Around McCarthy Day Hikes Erie Mine Bunkhouse A strenuous and sometimes challenging hike up to the Erie Mine bunkhouse on Bonanza Ridge. Can be done as a day hike or with a night at the campsite at the edge of the moraine. Great glacier views. Distance 16km out and back (same as Cowan track) Access Trail begins on the road north out of Kennicott Difficulty Very strenuous Map USGS McCarthy B-5, C-6 Approx Hiking Time 5-7 hours Challenges Very steep and at times exposed
Gain/Loss +2847 /-2847 Best Season Aug- Sept terrain, requires route finding The Hike (From Hiking Alaska s Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve, by Greg Fensterman) Head north out of Kennicott on the dirt road that becomes the Root Glacier Trail. At about 800m a signed junction indicates the Root Glacier Trail to the left and Jumbo and Bonanza Mines to the right. Take the glacier trail to the left. About 100 yards beyond, cross Bonanza Creek on the small foot bridge. Cross Jumbo Creek at about 2.0km on a log bridge. Be careful, as the logs can be slippery when wet. The next stream crossing is Amazon, which is about 800m from Jumbo. About 320m from Amazon Creek (WP15) is a sign marked G L A C I E R, just in case you were wondering what the big sheet of ice was all about. It indicates the trail the descends to the Root Glacier. Don t take that, but remain on the trail and continue along the way you have been travelling. A bit further down the trail is an outhouse on the right. Additional campsites and food storage containers are located on the left and down about 40 feet. Beyond the cut-off to the Root Glacier you leave the hustle and bustle of campsites, outhouses and trail junctions behind. Most folks heading out this way are bound for the glacier, so beyond the cut-off the trail becomes more lightly travelled. Its therefore narrower and more bushed in, but still an easy trail. Keep an eye out for bears and make noise as you hike through the brush. Bears are very common all along the glacier trail. Though much of this section of the trail is in the brush, there are occasional breaks that
offer views of Donoho Peak, Root Glacier, Fireweed Mountain and more, if the skies are clear. At 4.1km is an unnamed stream the last stream crossing and your last opportunity for water. It s been an easy walk so far, but stoke up on water because things are about to get a bit more strenuous. The views open up beyond this point, and if it s not too cloudy you can see Mount Blackburn as well as the Chugach Range back in the other direction. A large rockslide partially covers the trail around 4.8km, but just keep going it re-emerges on the other side. Just past 6.4km at WP32 is a large gully that leads steeply up and up. This is the route to the bunkhouse. To confirm this is the correct gully look for the green metal food storage bin near the trail. If you get to the gully where the tram cable is located, you have gone a gully too far. But it s worthwhile to make this short hike to the tram cable just to check it out. The season for this hike is listed as best for August and later because snow often fills the gully until midsummer. If you do the hike in early summer its possible and actually easier to ascend on the snow than on the rock, and scree that is exposed later. But if you attempt to hike up on snow you should have an ice axe and the skills to execute a self-arrest. The snow by June will be well consolidated and quite hard-packed. A slide on such snow might be difficult to arrest. The snow is often filled with rock higher up, make an uncontrolled slide more hazardous. A pair of crampons wouldn t be a bad idea, as well as boots with a sole stiff enough to allow edging on hard snow. The angle might not seem so bad down below but
the slope gets steeper and steeper as you climb. Remember also that descending is always more difficult than ascending on steep, hard snow. The route is clear, however just head straight up the gully. As you climb you will pass two side gullies off to the left that seem to offer a more direct route to your destination. The second gully is a possible route but it involves exposed bouldering moves and should be considered an advanced option. Best to stick to the main route. The gully narrows and steepens towards the top then turns into a grassy slope. Continue on up the trail in the grass, which can be steep at times. Hike up and over the first rock outcropping. This is a good vantage for some photos of the bunkhouse with a backdrop of the icefall in the distance. Just above the rock outcropping, drop down to your left (north) into the gully by traversing across the ridge. Take the grassy slope to the top of the ridge on your left, being sure to go all the way to the top of the slope where you will be able to see the bunkhouse. In 2004 the bunkhouse roof collapsed under heavy snow load, so the structure is not deteriorating much faster. Enter the structure at your own risk and use caution. Resist the temptation to freelance your route back down and return the way you came.
Fireweed Mountain A very challenging and strenuous scramble up the guardian of McCarthy. Great views of the entire area from the summit. Distance 18km out and back Access McCarthy Road Mile 59, (95km) Park Service Information Station Difficulty Very strenuous, Map USGS McCarthy, C-6 advanced Approx Hiking Time 10-12 hours Challenges Route finding, very Gain/Loss +5,500 steep slopes, scree, Best Season June- Sept brush, possible exposure. This is one of the more demanding day hikes available out of McCarthy and
involves serious route finding and bushwhacking to reach the summit. The Hike Fireweed Mountain looms over McCarthy like a hulking giant. Considering its prominence its surprising that it s not climbed more often. Then again
Jumbo and Bonanza Mines Two similar hikes that will give you a workout and terrific mountain and glacier views as well as a look at what life might have been like for the copper miners who loved and worked on Bonanza Ridge. Distance Jumbo 11.2km out and back Bonanza 10.6km out and back Access Trail begins on the road north out of Kennicott Difficulty Strenuous Map USGS McCarthy B-5, C-6 Approx Hiking Time 5-8 hours Challenges Not overly steep, but the angle is unrelentingly up from the start. Gain/Loss Jumbo +3597 Bonanza +3972 Best Season Jun - Sept
Kennicott Glacier Toe An easy from McCarthy to the terminus of the Kennicott Glacier. Distance 4.0km out and back Access Trail begins in downtown McCarthy Difficulty Easy walk on wide Map USGS McCarthy B-6, path, more difficult at the glacier Approx Hiking Time 2 hours Challenges Glacial moraine (optional) Gain/Loss Neglible Best Season May- Oct
McCarthy/Kennicott Wagon Trail A nice walk from mccarthy up the hill to Kennicott by way of the old wagon trail. Distance 7km point to point Access Begins in downtown McCarthy Difficulty Moderate on a wide Map USGS McCarthy B-6, path Approx Hiking Time 2-3hours Challenges None Gain/Loss +539-11 Best Season May- Oct
Donoho Lakes This trip is all about exploring the world of glaciers with the opportunity to check out three different ones: the Root, Kennicott and the Gates Glaciers. Distance 20-26km loop Access Kennicott Difficulty Moderate to Map USGS McCarthy B-6, strenuous Approx Hiking Time 3-5 days Challenges Glacier crossings, difficult moraine, streams Gain/Loss +1385-1141 Best Season Jun - Sept
Stairway Icefall/Erie Lake TRhe Stairway Icefall is the highlight of this trip. Though the icefall is viable all the way from McCarthy this route gets up close and personal with this impressive glacial feature. Distance 23km out and back Access From Kennicott Difficulty Moderate Map USGS McCarthy B-6, C-5 and C-6 Approx Hiking Time 3-4 days Challenges Glacier crossings, difficult moraine, Gain/Loss +2305-765 Best Season Jun - Sept