Experience the best of Australia HIGHLIGHTS ITINERARIES LOCAL EXPERTS. Discover PULL-OUT MAP. Australia

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Discover PULL-OUT MAP Australia Experience the best of Australia HIGHLIGHTS ITINERARIES LOCAL EXPERTS

Discover Contents I Australia Throughout this book, we use these icons to highlight special recommendations: The Best Lists for everything from bars to wildlife to make sure you don t miss out Don t Miss A must-see don t go home until you ve been there Local experts reveal their top picks and secret highlights Detour Special places a little off the beaten track If you like Lesser-known alternatives to world-famous attractions These icons help you quickly identify reviews in the text and on the map: 1 Sights 5 Eating 6 Drinking 4 Sleeping 8 Information This edition written and researched by Charles Rawlings-Way, Brett Atkinson, Jayne D Arcy, Peter Dragicevich, Sarah Gilbert, Paul Harding, Catherine Le Nevez, Virginia Maxwell, Miriam Raphael, Regis St Louis, Steve Waters, Penny Watson, Meg Worby

Perth & the West Coast Uluru & the Red Centre # p253 Tropical North Queensland # p159 Sydney & the # p291 Blue Mountains Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road # p199 Brisbane & the East Coast Beaches # p51 # p111 Sydney & the Blue Mountains Highlights... 54 Sydney Harbour Blue Mountains Sydney Opera House Beaches, Beaches, Beaches Sydney Harbour Bridge The Rocks Hawkesbury Houseboats Brisbane & the East Coast Beaches Highlights...114 Byron Bay Noosa Brisbane Fraser Island Moreton Bay Gold Coast Theme Parks Tropical North Queensland Highlights... 162 Great Barrier Reef Whitsunday Islands Daintree Rainforest Cairns Port Douglas Northern Reef Islands Southern Reef Islands Uluru & the Red Centre Highlights...256 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park Kakadu National Park Darwin Mindil Beach Sunset Market Litchfield National Park Alice Springs Desert Park Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park Perth & the West Coast Highlights...294 Fremantle Perth Margaret River Monkey Mia Valley of the Giants Esperance

Contents Plan Your Trip On the Road Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road Highlights...202 Melbourne s Art Beat Great Ocean Road Melbourne Cricket Ground Queen Victoria Market Eat Streets Wilsons Promontory National Park Phillip Island This is Australia...6 Australia Map...8 Australia s Top 25 Experiences...10 Australia s Top Itineraries...32 Australia Month by Month... 42 Get Inspired...47 Need to Know... 48 Sydney & the Blue Mountains 51 Highlights... 54 Best... 60 Walking Tour... 62 Sydney... 64 Around Sydney... 98 Royal National Park... 98 Hawkesbury River... 99 Hunter Valley... 100 Blue Mountains... 101 Brisbane & the East Coast Beaches 111 Highlights... 114 Best... 118 Itineraries...120 Byron Bay...122 Far North Coast Hinterland...126 Bangalow...126 Nimbin...126 Gold Coast... 127 Surfers Paradise & Broadbeach... 127 Burleigh Heads...129

Contents Brisbane... 131 Moreton Bay...144 North Stradbroke Island...145 Moreton Island... 147 Noosa & the Sunshine Coast...148 Glass House Mountains...151 Fraser Island & the Fraser Coast...151 Fraser Island...151 Rainbow Beach...154 Hervey Bay...155 Tropical North Queensland 159 Highlights...162 Best...168 Itineraries...170 Great Barrier Reef... 172 Southern Reef Islands... 172 Whitsunday Islands... 173 Mission Beach...180 Cairns...182 Islands off Cairns...188 Daintree Rainforest...189 Atherton Tableland...189 Port Douglas... 191 Daintree Village...196 Cape Tribulation... 197 Melbourne & the Great Ocean Road 199 Highlights... 202 Best...208 Itineraries...210 Melbourne...212 Phillip Island... 239 Great Ocean Road... 242 Torquay... 243 Torquay to Anglesea... 244 Anglesea... 244 Lorne... 245 Apollo Bay... 246 Cape Otway...247 Port Campbell National Park...247 Port Campbell... 248 Port Campbell to Warrnambool... 248 Gippsland... 249 Wilsons Promontory National Park... 249 Uluru & the Red Centre 253 Highlights... 256 Best... 262 Itineraries...264 Darwin... 266 Around Darwin...276 Kakadu & Arnhem Land...277 Kakadu National Park...277 Alice Springs...281 Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park... 283 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park... 286 Uluru (Ayers Rock)... 287 Yulara (Ayers Rock Resort)... 288 Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)... 289 Perth & the West Coast 291 Highlights...294 Best... 298 Itineraries...300 Perth... 302 Fremantle...313 Around Perth... 317 Rottnest Island (Wadjemup)... 317 The Southwest... 320

In Focus Survival Guide Margaret River Wine Region... 320 South Coast... 322 Walpole & Nornalup.. 322 Denmark... 324 Albany... 326 Around Albany...327 Esperance...327 Shark Bay... 329 Denham... 329 Monkey Mia... 330 Ningaloo Marine Park... 332 Best of The Rest 333 Canberra... 334 Adelaide... 336 Kangaroo Island... 338 Hobart... 339 Port Arthur...341 Cradle Mountain- Lake St Clair National Park... 340 Australia Today...344 History...346 Family Travel... 354 Environment... 356 Aboriginal Art... 359 Food & Wine... 362 Sport... 365 Australia Outdoors...367 Directory...372 Accommodation...372 Business Hours... 373 Customs Regulations... 373 Climate...374 Discount Cards...374 Electricity...375 Gay & Lesbian Travellers...375 Health...376 Insurance... 378 Internet Access... 378 Money... 379 Public Holidays...380 Safe Travel...381 Telephone...381 Time... 383 Tipping... 383 Tourist Information... 383 Travellers with Disabilities... 384 Visas... 384 Transport... 385 Getting There & Away... 385 Getting Around... 386 Behind the Scenes... 393 Index... 398 Legend...405 Our Writers...408

This is Australia Island, country, continent Australia is a big un whichever way you spin it. The essence of the place is diversity: deserts, coral reefs, tall forests, snow-cloaked mountains and multicultural melting-pot cities. Most Australians live along the coast, and most of these folks live in cities. In fact, Australia is the 18th-most urbanised country in the world, with around 70% of Australians living in the 10 largest towns. It follows that cities here are a whole lotta fun! Sydney, the sun-kissed Harbour City, is a glamorous collusion of beaches, boutiques and bars. Melbourne is all arts, alleyways and Australian Rules football. Brisbane is a subtropical town on the way up; boomtown Perth breathes west-coast optimism. But whichever city you re wheeling into, you ll never go wanting for a decent coffee, a live band, art-gallery opening or music festival mosh-pit. Hungry? Australia s multicultural chefs fuse together European techniques and fresh Pacific Rim ingredients. Mod Oz (or Modern Australian) is what the locals call it. Seafood plays a starring role: from succulent Moreton Bay bugs to delicate King George whiting, there s a lot of variety in the ocean s bounty. And of course, beer in hand, you ll still find beef, lamb and chicken at traditional Aussie barbecues. Don t drink beer? From Barossa Valley Shiraz to Hunter Valley Semillon, Australian wines are world-beaters. Need a caffeine hit? These days there are coffee machines in pubs and petrol stations, and baristas stationed at downtown coffee carts you re never far from a double-shot, day or night. There s a heckuva lot of tarmac across this wide brown land. The temptation is to Get your motor runnin Head out on the highway, as Steppenwolf cry in Born To Be Wild. But remember that Australia is really big! An intrepid outback road trip will require some serious planning. On the other hand, state capitals and regional centres are well connected by airlines: with a little groundwork you can cover a good chunk of the country in just a few weeks. Mod Oz (or Modern Australian) is what the locals call it. Sydney Opera House (p65) PHOTOGRAPHER: GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF/LONELY PLANET IMAGES 6