Tour Booklet You are travelling to Europe a wonderful assembly of diverse countries that have, over hundreds of years, evolved and formulated their individual and often unique customs, styles and quirkiness. We want to (and sometimes have to) fit into the region s natural patterns and irregularities. Much will appear so very different from home and surely it is exactly those very differences that inspired you to go there in the first place! To help you, this useful booklet contains additional general travelling handy hints, additional information specific to your tour, plus brief introductory information regarding the major sites and regions you will be visiting. Where possible, while on tour, your Tour Manager will access and provide local city maps. It is surprisingly difficult to supply in advance any genuinely useful city maps that can fit on an A4 sheet of paper and still show street names with any clarity. Either the larger city map is too detailed and the print is minute, or the usefulness is just not there. Where possible we have included them. We would like to wish you a wonderful trip through Europe and a safe return home. Best wishes from the Albatross Team 1
TURKEY, GALLIPOLI AND THE OTTOMANS TOUR Some local and regional background information. This information is meant only as a light overview of some of the towns and regions you will be visiting. Istanbul Straddling 2 continents Europe and Asia Istanbul dates back thousands of years and its grand monuments bear testament to ancient empires and the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. The Byzantine Hippodrome, now known as Sultanahmet Square, is home to one of the world s great religious sites - the magnificent Blue Mosque. Completed in 1616 this historic mosque consists of the main dome, six minarets, and eight secondary domes. Inside are blue tiles decorating the walls of its interior, giving it its name the Blue Mosque. Topkapi Palace (formerly the Sultan s Palace), transformed into an Imperial Museum which is home to an enormous collection from the Ottoman Empire including armory, weapons, treasures, jewelry and porcelain. The entire palace complex is made up of many of rooms, chambers, courtyards and passages, not all are able to be entered by the public but the main important rooms can still be seen. Hundreds of ancient cisterns are underground in the foundations of this city. One of the largest of all is the Basilica Cistern which is near the 6 th century Hagia Sophia on the Sarayburnu historical peninsula. Accessed by many stone steps, you can enter down through this amazing cistern which has the ability to store up to 100,000 tons of water. Inside you can see the hundreds of marble columns supporting the ceiling which have been intricately carved. Make sure you visit one of the Turkish tea houses to taste the exotic varieties of Turkish coffee, traditional apple tea and, if you wish, try a Shisha (waterpipe). 2
Historical Background By Dr Richard Reid WORLD WAR I and AUSTRALIA TURKEY, GALLIPOLI AND THE OTTOMANS Now we are a Nation Up to the time of the war we were merely an offshoot of the British race Now we are a Nation. [Lieutenant General C B B White, 1919] World War I was a central event in Australia s development and this period in our history produced what we now call the Anzac spirit. The personal qualities shown by Australian soldiers under the terrible conditions of Gallipoli and the Western Front in France and Belgium gave them a pride in themselves and set an example to the nation. By the end of the war Australia had gained recognition as a valuable ally and the nation s soldiers as a force to be reckoned with on the battlefield. In Australia, the outbreak of World War I was greeted with enthusiasm and thousands flocked to enlist in the newly formed AIF (Australian Imperial Force). Indeed, between 1914 and 1918 from a population of less than five million people, over 416 000 men joined up of whom over 331,000 saw overseas service. Australia s casualty rate was among the highest of any of the Allied nations. Over 64 per cent of the AIF became battle casualties and of these over 61,000-18 per cent were killed in action or died of wounds. During World War I Australia was part of the British Empire. By fighting for the Empire most Australians felt they were fighting Australia s war as well. In April 1915, the war took Australian soldiers to the Gallipoli Peninsula in Turkey where, with men of many nations, they attempted to force Turkey out of the war. During the eight months of the Gallipoli campaign, over 8,700 Australians lost their lives and over 19,000 were wounded. In March 1916, the infantry divisions of the AIF went to the Western Front in France and Belgium to fight in the trenches against the Germans. Those years between 1916 and 1918, saw the most costly conflict in which Australia has ever been involved. Of the 102,800 names on the national Roll of Honour at the Australian War Memorial in Canberra, over 45,000 died as a result of the fighting along the Western Front. For years after the war, place names such as Fromelles, Pozières, Bullecourt, Ypres, Villers- Bretonneux and Mont St Quentin, where so many Australians perished, were household words in Australia. By 1918, Australians were fighting in their own army corps the Australian Corps. From May of that year the corps was commanded by an Australian General Sir John Monash. While the Australian infantry battled its way to victory in Europe, the men of the Desert Mounted Corps containing Australian light horse units, fought against the Turks in the Middle East. >From mid 1916 to October 1918, the Australian Light Horse, along with New Zealand and British forces, fought its way from Egypt, through Palestine and on into Syria. By comparison with Europe, Australian casualties were mercifully light - just under 1,000 died and 3,300 were wounded in action but this ultimately victorious campaign was hard fought and conducted under severe climatic conditions. An often forgotten part of World War 1 was the important contribution of the RAN (Royal Australian Navy). Virtually the first widely celebrated Empire naval victory of the war was the destruction in November 1914 of the German raider Emden by HMAS Sydney off the Cocos Islands in the Indian Ocean. One of the major elements in the ultimate defeat of Germany was the naval blockade of Germany s 3
North Sea ports between 1914 and war s end. Ships of the RAN took part in this blockade and the battle cruiser, HMAS Australia, took line honours when the German High Seas fleet sailed into Scapa Flow to surrender in 1918. Australian women also played an important role in the nation s war effort. Many women spent thousands of hours in the raising of money and the packing and posting of comfort parcels. These comforts socks, scarves, chocolate, biscuits, tobacco etc. were a great morale booster for the troops. Women also served in the AIF as nurses in the AANS (Australian Army Nursing Service) and in their work they lived daily with the destructive effects of modern war on men s minds and bodies. Seven members of the AANS gained Military Medals awarded for bravery in the field. What were the legacies of World War 1 for Australia? Firstly, that war gave the nation its most widely recognised national day Anzac Day the commemoration of the dawn landing on 25 April 1915 by the AIF on the Gallipoli peninsula. On 25 April 1916, as it has been ever since, that significant anniversary was celebrated in Australia. Secondly, Australia s relatively small armed services made a significant contribution the defeat of Germany and its allies. As one historian has summed up the military efforts of the AIF on the Western Front [they] engaged the main army of the main enemy in the main theatre of war Australian troops played a notable part in the final victory and in freeing Western Europe from the overbearing weight of German military autocracy. Lastly, Australia took its place at the end of the war in the congress of nations, not simply as an adjunct of the British Empire, but with arguments, claims and demands of its own. Its right to do that had been earned by Australian blood spilt on the battlefield in the cause of Australia and its allies. 4
GALLIPOLI April 1915-January 1916 Comradeship and endurance that will never own defeat The British Empire and French invasion of Turkey began on 25 April 1915. Its purpose was to occupy the Gallipoli Peninsula and so capture the Turkish forts and artillery positions guarding the straits of the Dardanelles. Then British and French warships would be able to sail safely on to the Turkish capital of Istanbul (Constantinople) and force Turkey, Germany s ally, out of the war. The Australians fought at Gallipoli as part of a combined British, New Zealand and Australian force. At dawn on 25 April Australians stormed ashore on the central part of the peninsula around Ari Burnu point, while the British landed further south on beaches around Cape Helles. Despite fierce counter attacks by the Turks the Australians and New Zealanders held on after the landing and that night, despite a recommendation by local commanders that they be taken off, consolidated their positions over the next few days. The small portion of the peninsula eventually controlled by the Australians and New Zealanders (Anzacs) became known as Anzac while the British position on the southern tip of the peninsula was known as Helles. The beach lying just to the south of Ari Burnu, which was used for the first four months of the campaign as the main Anzac supply depot, was called Anzac Cove. The fighting on Gallipoli lasted for just on eight months at Anzac and nine months at Helles. During that time a number of unsuccessful attempts were made to break through the Turkish lines and carry out the original objective of the landing the capture of the Dardanelles. Courage and endurance was shown by the men of all armies who fought on the peninsula. In human terms Gallipoli cost the Allies over 44,000 dead and 97,000 wounded while the Turks, in defence of their homeland, suffered over 86,000 dead and 164,000 wounded. Inadequate diet, lack of proper attention to sanitation and the severe summer heat resulted in many thousands of men being evacuated sick. Eventually, the British Government felt that victory at Gallipoli was unlikely and the troops were withdrawn. By 20 December 1915, Anzac had been evacuated and British troops had left Helles by 8 January 1916. Strategically, therefore, Gallipoli was a defeat. But for Australia the Gallipoli campaign came to symbolise what were seen as central qualities of the Australian character. In 1948, Australia s official war historian and official war correspondent on Gallipoli, Charles Bean, summed up this sense of achievement in defeat: By dawn on December 20 th Anzac had faded into a dim blue line lost amid other hills on the horizon as the ships took their human freight to Imbros, Lemnos and Egypt. But Anzac stood, and still stands, for reckless valour in a good cause, for enterprise, resourcefulness, fidelity, comradeship, and endurance that will never own defeat. 5
ANZAC Australian and New Zealand Army Corps According to Charles Bean, the term ANZAC came in to being in General William Birdwood s headquarters in Cairo, Egypt, sometime in late 1914 or early 1915. Birdwood, an English officer serving in India, had been sent to Cairo to take command of the combined 1 st Australian Division the New Zealand and Australian Division. Lieutenant A T White, on Birdwood s staff, devised a code for the name of this new corps ANZAC, the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps. When the corps landed at Gallipoli, Birdwood asked that the part of the peninsula held by his corps become known as Anzac. Soon afterwards the term Anzac was also applied to the men of the ANZAC Corps the Anzacs. Initially, the name Anzac was applied only to those of the corps who had fought at Gallipoli. Anzacs were identifiable by a small brass A that was affixed to a soldier s colour patch on his shoulder. Not surprisingly, by 1918 there were few men left in the Australian Corps with the badge of honour of Anzac. Also by wars end the word Anzac was increasingly being applied to any man who had served in the AIF although the word digger was probably more widely used among the men of the AIF themselves. In Australia, the word Anzac became widely used after the evacuation from Gallipoli. Business people, in particular, were eager to trade on the nationalistic aura surrounding the word. There were Anzac hotels, Anzac cafes, Anzac fruit barrows, Anzac billiard rooms, Anzac streets, avenues, parks and Anzac Christmas cards. There were suggestions that the Tasman Sea be renamed the Anzac Sea and that Australia s new federal capital be called Anzac. Even children were being given the name Anzac! So great was the wish to use the word in every conceivable way that in 1916 the Commonwealth Government brought in legislation, which exists today, to control the use, or mis-use, of the word. Today, perhaps, there are two prominent reminders of the Australian campaign at Gallipoli. The first is Anzac Day when thousands of ordinary Australians turn out to watch Anzac Day marches by war veterans in locations all over Australia. Many others go to Dawn Services, timed to coincide with that moment on 25 April 1915 when the first Anzacs leapt ashore on the beaches of Gallipoli. The second is the Anzac biscuit, a blend of oats, flour, sugar, butter and golden syrup. As these biscuits could withstand the long sea journey, they were sent from Australia to the soldiers in Europe during World War 1. Later they became widely accepted throughout the country so much so that one historian has called them as a kind of folk food. 6
Canakkale Also straddling the two continents Europe and Asia, is the seaport town of Canakkale. Visit the military museum which features guns, cannons and artefacts with informative displays on the Gallipoli battle. A short distance from the harbour is the historical five story clock tower. Take a walk on the waterfront to see the huge wooden horse used in the film Troy which you can get up close to and have your picture taken. Here there is also some information about the nearby city of Troy. Located nearby, are the ruins of the ancient city of Troy, the site of the mythological battle Homer immortalised in his Illiad. Archaeologists have proved that there had been nine separate periods of settlement here dating back to 3,000 BC. Kusadasi The popular port of Kusadasi is a resort town on the Aegean coast. The wealthy citizens of Ephesus in ancient times would be the main visitors to this port town, now you will see cruise ships coming in with visitors from all around the world. Take a walk along the waterfront and see the remnants of the old Kusadasi before it become more modernised with converted houses turned into shops, bars and cafes. In the old town you may see some remains of the old city walls or see the one remaining gate that still stands. Discover Pigeon Island which is just off the waterfront about 100metres over the harbour accessible by road. From here you can get fantastic panoramic views of the town and a chance to relax away from all the busy traffic, alternatively from the waterfront of Kusadasi you can capture beautiful sunset photos with the castle and walls lit up in the evenings. Ephesus One of the ancient wonders of the world is the inspiring ruins of Ephesus. Rated one of the world s best archaeological sites, you can walk along the 2,000 year old marble streets to see some of the largest collection of Roman ruins found in the Eastern Mediterranean. To give you an idea on how big this collection really is, only about 18% of the ruins have been excavated at present. Aphrodisias One of Turkey's most important archaeological discoveries of recent decades named after Aphrodite the Goddess of Love. Completely abandoned in the 12 th century, walk through this ancient town which rivals Ephesus and includes the Temple of Aphrodite with its dazzling white marble and a vast, virtually intact amphitheater. Pamukkale Eternally famous for the petrified white lime cascades, Pamukkale is one of the most visited areas of Turkey. Warm calcite-laden waters flow from a cliff 200 metres high overlooking the plain creating an unreal landscape in a series of terraced basins. Located at the nearby Hierapolis, spend time walking through the grand theater, the tombs of Necropolis and numerous other fascinating ruins. 7
Cappadocia Located south of Mount Erciyes, Cappadocia is a volcanic region known for its curious cone and rock formations, known as fairy chimneys, which have been entirely sculpted by the erosion of rain and wind. One of the oldest settlements in the region is the Goreme Valley which is made up of rock chapels carved by early Christians. In early centuries, many would seek shelter here from the conquerors and marauding armies of the Central Anatolian Plateau; often burrowing entire subterranean towns. In modern Cappadocia, the cave dwellers are now often tourists staying in cave hotels who have been drawn to this unique location due to the stunning scenery. Cappadocia has become a popular tourist destination. Visitors to Cappadocia can indulge in hot-air ballooning and enjoy a dramatic journey over the fairy chimneys of Goreme and across the moon-like countryside. Avanos Situated within the historic region of Cappadocia, the Bronze Age pottery village of Avanos overlooks the longest river in Turkey; the Kızılırmak (Red River). Avanos is an old city which is famed for its production of earthenware pottery which dates back to the Hittites. Locals would often take clay from the Red River and spin the clay into household items. The earthenware pieces are typically painted in turquoise or earthy browns and yellows being favoured by the Hittites. Kaymakli Underground City The underground city of Kaymakli is thought to have originally been constructed by the Hittites over 3,000 years ago. The Arab invasions of the 7 th and 8 th centuries saw the chambers expanded into an extensive troglodytic complex by Christians. Today, the underground city is made up of nearly one hundred underground tunnels spread over 12 levels; 4 of which are open to visitors. Of those discovered, Kaymakli is recognized as the largest underground city in the Cappadocia region. 8