The Best of the Maine Coast Humorist Dave Barry once wryly suggested that Maine s state motto should be Cold, but damp. Cute, but true. There s spring, which tends to last a few blustery, rain-soaked days. There s November, in which Arctic winds alternate with gray sheets of rain. And then winter brings a character-building mix of blizzards and ice storms to the fabled coast. Ah, but then there s summer. Summer in Maine brings ospreys diving for fish off wooded points, gleaming cumulus clouds building over the rounded peaks of Acadia, and the haunting whoop of loons echoing off the dense forest walls bordering the lakes. It brings languorous days when the sun rises before most visitors and it seems like noontime at 8am. Maine summers bring a measure of gracious tranquillity, and a placid stay in the right spot can rejuvenate even the most jangled nerves. The trick is finding that right spot. Those who arrive here without a clear plan might find themselves cursing their travel decision. Maine s Route along the coast has its moments, but it s mostly charmless an amalgam of convenience stores, tourist boutiques, and restaurants catering to bus tours. Acadia National Park, for all its vaunted ocean vistas, also has world-class congestion along some of the byways in and around the park. In this it s no different from other national parks of its stature whether Yosemite or Yellowstone. You need strategy to avoid the worst moments. Fortunately, Maine s size works to the traveler s advantage. Maine is nearly as large as the other five New England states combined. Straighten out the state s convoluted coast and you ll discover you ve got more than a continent s worth of exploring some 5,500 miles of mainland shoreline. Add to that the possibility of exploring even a few of Maine s thousands of coastal islands and numberless coves, peninsulas, and bays, and you ll soon realize that with a little planning, you should easily be able to find your place far from the crowds. One of the greatest challenges of planning a vacation in coastal Maine is narrowing down the options: Where to start? Here s an entirely biased list of destinations, the places I enjoy returning to time and again. Over years of traveling through the region, I ve discovered that these places merit more than just a quick stop when I m in the area; they re worth a major detour. COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL The Seven Natural Wonders of Coastal Maine The beaches of southern Maine your tootsies: that water s cold. (southern Maine): The flat, whitesand beaches of southernmost The Calendar Islands (southern See chapter 4. Maine are gorgeous and perfect Maine): Locals call em the Calendar Islands for a very simple rea- for Frisbee, walking, tanning, kiteflying, or photography. Just watch son: There must be at least 365 of
4 3 L. Francis CHAPTER. THE BEST OF THE MAINE COAST The Maine Coast CANADA Colebrook Mooselookmeguntic L. Umbagog L. Groveton Berlin Gorham Mt. Washington Conway NEW HAMPSHIRE L. Winnipesaukee Aziscohos L. WHITE MOUNTAINS North Conway Laconia 4 Concord Wolfeboro Rochester Kennebago L. R. Androscoggin Bridgton 30 Long L. Fryeburg Dover Sebago L. Rangeley L. Flagstaff L. BLUE E MOUNTAINS N Sanford 0 Somersworth 5 Mexico Norway Sugarloaf Farmington Livermore Falls South Paris Westbrook 5 0 9 6 Saco Auburn Kennebunk Ogunquit 0 Freeport 495 0 Kennebec R. Great Pond Wilton Lisbon Falls Biddeford York Harbor Kittery Portsmouth Yarmouth Casco Bay Portland 0 Madison Winthrop Lewiston 95 Cape Elizabeth Bingham 0 5 km Skowhegan 0 Farmingdale Wiscasset Bath Brunswick 39 50 5 mi Dover-Foxcroft Clinton China L. Waldoboro N Hartland Waterville Augusta Boothbay Harbor MONHEGAN ISLAND Sebec L. Dexter 95 0 Camden Rockland Thomaston these rocky islands dotting Casco Bay, in every shape and size. Take a mailboat from Portland harbor and see how many you can count. See chapter 5. Rocky peninsulas (southern, midcoast, and Downeast Maine): Everywhere you go from the Cape Neddick area to just south of Portland area, from Harpswell to Georgetown to Blue Hill to Boothbay and Schoodic Point you ll find long fingerlings and headlands carved of sheer bedrock. Once these were mountaintops high above an ancient sea; now they comprise some of the East Coast s most beautiful scenery. Try some backroads wandering to find the best ones. The Camden Hills (midcoast Maine): They re not huge, but this run of hills comes with a bonus you ll only understand when you
THE SEVEN NATURAL WONDERS OF COASTAL MAINE 5 Milo Howland 6 Pushaw L. Bangor Old Town Orono Brewer Hampden Graham L. A 79 A Bucksport Ellsworth Searsport Blue Frenchman Castine Hill Bay Belfast LONG Bar Harbor ISLAND 0 Acadia NP Penobscot Southwest Harbor Bay DEER ISLE SWANS ISLAND VINALHAVEN ISLAND ISLE AU HAUT Acadia NP Nicatous L. 9 West Grand L. Big L. Woodland Machias 9 Jonesport Calais Eastport CANADA Presque Isle Passamaquoddy Bay ATLANTIC OCEAN AREA OF DETAIL 6 0 Augusta 495 95 Bath Portland Kennebunk BAXTER STATE PARK 95 MAINE Bangor 3 Calais 9 get to the top: eye-popping coastal vistas of boats, villages, and more hills like these. See chapter 7. Acadia National Park (Downeast Maine): New England s only national park is also one of the most popular in the U.S. The fractured, rocky, surf-pounded coastline is the main attraction, but don t overlook the quiet, boreal forests and open summits of low mountains that afford spectacular coastal views. See chapter 8. The Appalachian Trail and Mount Katahdin (side trip from Downeast Maine): All right, they re not directly on the coast. But Maine s highest peak is well worth a detour. Rising abruptly from a thick blanket of North Woods forest, the nearly milehigh Mount Katahdin has an ineffable spiritual quality to it. It s the centerpiece of equally inspiring Baxter State Park, one of the last, best wildernesses of the eastern
6 CHAPTER. THE BEST OF THE MAINE COAST states. While here, don t forget to check out the trail, which stretches,00 rugged miles from Georgia before winding uphill to the finish line here on Katahdin. The Best Small Towns York Village (southern Maine): What else can you say? It s Maine s oldest settlement, so it s got history and fine architecture. It s also got a set of beaches and a coastal trail nearby. And people just seem friendlier here. See Chapter 4. Camden (midcoast Maine): This seaside town has everything a beautiful harbor, great Federal, Queen Anne, and Greek Revival architecture, even its own tiny mountain range affording great hikes with sweeping ocean views. With lots of elegant bed-andbreakfasts, it s a perfect base for explorations further afield. See chapter 7. Castine (midcoast Maine): Soaring elm trees, a peaceful harborside setting, grand historic homes, and a selection of good inns make this a great spot to soak up some The stretches in Maine include some of the most magnificent scenery in northern New England. See chapter 0. of Maine s coastal ambience off the beaten path. See chapter 7. Blue Hill (midcoast Maine): A tiny town with fine harbor views, a general store, a green, a lazy, summery feeling, and absolutely no pretense or T-shirt shops (yet). See chapter 7. Northeast Harbor (Downeast Maine): A waterside setting, a gentle mixture of seafaring locals and art-loving summer folks, and a century-ago aura pervade the single, sleepy main street of one of Mount Desert Island s best little towns. See chapter 8. Eastport (Downeast Maine): Sure, it s the saltiest town on my list, but Eastport is making a slow transition from working-class sea town to tourist (and life) destination. See chapter 9. 3 The Best Places to See Fall Foliage The Camden Hills (midcoast Blueberry barrens (Downeast Maine): The surrounding countryside is full of blazing color, with barrens turn a brilliant cranberry- Maine): Maine s wild blueberry whitewashed homes and sailboats red in fall, setting the fields ablaze to offset it. Perfect. See chapter 7. with color. Wander the dirt Acadia National Park (Downeast roads northeast of Cherryfield Maine): This national park possesses some of the finest foliage drive Route between Harrington through the upland barrens, or views I ve ever seen, all the more so and Machias past the experimental when placed beside the dramatic, farm atop, of course, Blueberry rocky coastline. See chapter 8. Hill. See chapter 9. 4 The Best Coastal Views Hike Monhegan Island: The village of Monhegan is clustered around the harbor of this island far off the Maine coast. The rest of this 700-acre island is comprised of picturesque wildlands, with miles of trails crossing open meadows and tracing rocky bluffs. See chapter 6.
THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS 7 Cruising Maine on a windjammer: See Maine as many saw it for centuries from the ocean, looking inland. Sailing ships depart from various harbors along the coast, particularly Rockland and Camden. Spend between a night and a week exploring the dramatic shoreline. See chapter 7. Merchant s Row by sea kayak: The islands between Stonington and Isle au Haut, rimmed with pink granite and capped with the stark spires of spruce trees, are among the most spectacular anywhere. Inaccessible by motorboat, a wonderful way to explore them is by sea kayak. Outfitters offer overnight camping trips on the islands. See chapter 7. Drive the Park Loop Road at Acadia National Park: This is the region s premier ocean drive. Start along a ridge with views of Frenchman Bay and the Porcupine Islands, then dip down along the rocky shores to watch the surf crash against the dark rocks. Plan to do 5 The Best Active Vacations Mountain biking at Acadia: John D. Rockefeller, Jr., built the carriage roads of Mount Desert Island so that the gentry could enjoy rambles in the woods with their horses away from pesky cars. Today, this extensive network offers some of the most enjoyable, aesthetically pleasing mountain biking anywhere. See chapter 8. Kayaking the coast: With its massive and serpentine coastline and thousands of islands, most uninhabited, Maine is a worldclass destination for those who like to snoop around by kayak. The Stonington area is considered this 0-mile loop at least twice to get the most out of it. See chapter 8. Sit in a rocking chair: Views are never better than when you re caught unaware such as looking up from an engrossing book on the front porch of an ocean-side inn. This book includes many hotels and inns on the water. Some of the better ones for so-called rusticating: Beachmere Inn (Ogunquit), Black Point Inn (Scarborough), Grey Havens (Georgetown Island), East Wind Inn (Tenant s Harbor), Samoset Resort (Rockport), Inn on the Harbor (Stonington), The Tides Inn (Bar Harbor), and the Claremont (Southwest Harbor). Bicycle Route A, Hampton Beach to Portsmouth (New Hampshire): With a sampling of all sorts of coastal scenery on New Hampshire s minuscule coastline, you begin with sandy beaches, then pass rocky headlands and handsome mansions before coasting into Portsmouth, New Hampshire s scenic seaside city. See chapter 0. the best spot for kayaking in Maine, but it s hard to go wrong anywhere north and east of Portland. Beware of dangers in the form of tides and weather kayak with a guide if you re a novice. Canoeing the North Woods: Maine has thousands of miles of flowing rivers and streams, and hundreds of miles of shoreline along remote ponds and lakes. Bring your tent, sleeping bag, and cooking gear, and come prepared to spend a night under the stars listening to the sounds of the loons. See chapter 0.
8 CHAPTER. THE BEST OF THE MAINE COAST 6 The Best Destinations for Families York Beach (southern Maine): atmosphere there are French This beach town is actually a set of fries and hotdogs and fried-dough three towns; head for Short Sands galore. Though it might be a bit with the kids, where they can watch much for you, the kids will probably love it. See chapter 5. a taffy-pulling machine, play video games in an arcade, ogle seashells in Monhegan Island (southern a trinket shop, or scarf cotton candy Maine): Kids from 8 to years at a small amusement park. The old especially enjoy overnight Long Sands section is ideal for excursions to Monhegan Island. Frisbee and kite-flying, and nearby The mail boat from Port Clyde is Nubble Light is close to a kidfriendly ice cream shop, Brown s (to are an adventure, and the 700-acre rustic and intriguing, the hotels get there, keep going uphill past the island s scale is perfect for kids to lighthouse). See chapter 4. explore. See chapter 6. Old Orchard Beach (southern Maine): This place has a carny 7 The Most Intriguing Historic Homes Victoria Mansion (Portland): as minister to the quiet town of Donald Trump has nothing on the Blue Hill in the late 8th century, Victorians when it comes to material excess. You ll see Victorian dec- from designing his own house to was a man of extraordinary talents, orative arts at their zenith in this building his own clocks to preaching sermons in five languages elaborate Italianate mansion, built during the Civil War. It s open to (including Aramaic). As if that the public for tours throughout wasn t enough, his primitive landscapes of the region are widely the summer. See chapter 5 Parson Fisher House (Blue Hill): regarded as among the best to Parson Jonathan Fisher, who served come from the area. See chapter 7. 8 The Best Places to Rediscover America s Past Sabbathday Lake Shaker Community (New Gloucester): This is wracked rocks, and where some of where it started, amid surf- the last of the active Shaker communities in the nation and the ventured to erect vacation cot- the nation s most affluent families only one that voted to accept new tages, with bedrooms by the converts rather than die out. The dozen. The area still offers lessons,900-acre farm about 45 minutes on how to design with nature as outside of Portland has a number accomplice, rather than adversary. of exceptional buildings, including some dating from the 8th Portsmouth (New Hampshire): See chapter 8. century. Visitors can view examples of Shaker craftsmanship and that just happens to have some Portsmouth is a salty coastal city buy locally grown Shaker herbs to of the most impressive historic bring home. See chapter 5. homes in New England. Start at Mount Desert Island & Bar Strawbery Banke, a 0-acre compound of 4 historic buildings. Harbor: In the mid-800s, America launched a love affair with Then visit the many other grand nature and never looked back. See homes in nearby neighborhoods,
THE BEST BED & BREAKFASTS 9 including the house John Paul Jones lived in while building his 9 The Best Resorts The Colony Hotel (Kennebunkport; & 800/55-363 or 07/967-333): This rambling and gleaming white resort dates from 94 and has been upgraded over the years without losing any of its charm. You can play shuffleboard, putt on the green, or lounge in the ocean-view pool. More vigorous souls cross the street to brave the cold Atlantic waters. See p. 93. Black Point Inn (Scarborough; & 800/58-0003 or 07/883-500): This compound of shingled 0 The Best Bed & Breakfasts The Captain Lord Mansion (Kennebunkport; & 800/5-34 or 07/967-34): You ll transcend the wannab&bs at this genuine article, with grandfather clocks, Chippendale highboys, and other wonderful antiques. This uncommonly handsome mansion is right in the village of Kennebunkport, perfectly situated for relaxing strolls. See p. 9. Pomegranate Inn (Portland; & 800/356-0408 or 07/77-006): Whimsy and history combine with good effect at this fine B&B in one of Portland s most stately neighborhoods. The Italianate mansion is stern on the outside yet alive on the inside with creative paintings and an eclectic collection of unique antiques. See p. 04. Grey Havens (Georgetown Island; & 800/43-36 or 07/37-66): This graceful, 904-shingled home with prominent turrets sits on a high, rocky bluff overlooking the sea. Inside, it s all richly warship during the Revolution. See chapter 0. buildings near two beaches dates from 878 but has been impeccably maintained ever since. New owners have brought back the luster without obscuring the oldfashioned charm. See p. 0. White Barn Inn (Kennebunkport; & 07/967-3): Much of the White Barn staff hails from Europe, and they treat guests graciously. The rooms are a delight, and the meals (served in a gloriously restored barn) may be the best in Maine. See p. 9. mellowed pine paneling, with a spacious common room where you can relax in cozy chairs in front of the cobblestone fireplace while listening to classical music. See p. 34. Lindenwood Inn (Southwest Harbor; & 800/307-5335 or 07/ 44-5335): It s hard to argue with a jovial owner, outstanding rooms, a refreshingly laid-back feel, and proximity to one of Mount Desert Island s key lobster piers. This place delivers in every sense of the word. See p. 35. The Claremont (Southwest Harbor; & 800/44-5036 or 07/ 44-5036): The 884 Claremont is a Maine classic. This waterside lodge has everything a Victorian resort should, including sparely decorated rooms, creaky floorboards in the halls, great views of water and mountains, and a croquet pitch. The dining room is only so-so, but Southwest Harbor has other dining options. See p. 34.
0 CHAPTER. THE BEST OF THE MAINE COAST The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations Franciscan Guest House (Kennebunkport; & 07/967-4865): No daily maid service, cheap paneling on the walls, and industrial carpeting. What s to like? Plenty, shingled compound dates from 90 and offers mostly rooms with a shared bathroom, but the views alone are worth that inconvenience. See p. 37. including the location (on the lush Maine Idyll Motor Court riverside grounds of a monastery), price, and a great Lithuanian-style breakfast spread in the morning. You can walk to Dock Square at Kennebunkport or bike to the beach. See p. 90. Driftwood Inn & Cottages (Bailey Island; & 07/833-546): Where else can you find rooms at the edge of the rocky Maine coast for around $70 and up? This classic (Freeport; & 07/865-40): The 93 Maine Idyll Motor Court is a classic a cluster of 0 cottages scattered about a grove of beech and oak trees. Each cottage has a tiny porch, wood-burning fireplace (birch logs provided), TV, modest kitchen facilities (no ovens), and timeworn furniture. The downside? Highway noise. Cottages are $44 to $70 for two. See p. 9. The Best Alternative Accommodations Maine Island Trail: About 70 windjammers, offering adventures remote islands along the Maine on the high seas throughout the coast are open to camping, and summer. You can explore offshore from these remote, salty wildernesses, you ll see some of the best learn how sailors once made the islands and inland estuaries, and sunsets imaginable. See Outdoor best of the wind. Accommodations Activity, in chapter, for an in private cabins are typically spartan, but you ll spend most of your introduction. Windjammers (Maine): Maine time on the deck luxuriating in the has the East Coast s largest fleet of stunning views. See chapter 7. 3 The Best Restaurants Arrows (Ogunquit; & 07/36-00): The emphasis at this elegant spot is local products often very local, including many ingredients from nearby organic vegetable gardens. Prices are not for the fainthearted (it s expensive by New York City standards), but the experience is top-rate, from the cordial service to the silver and linens. Expect New American fare informed by an Asian sensibility. See p. 83. Hurricane (Ogunquit); & 800/ 649-6348 (Maine and New Hampshire only) or 07/646-6348: Brooks MacDonald s longtime favorite emphasizes local seafood and lobster with a creative flair. There s now a second branch of the popular eatery in Kennebunkport s Dock Square (& 07/ 967-), too. See p. 84 and p. 96. White Barn Inn (Kennebunkport; & 07/967-3): The setting, in an ancient, rustic barn, is magical. The tables are draped with floorlength tablecloths, and the chairs feature Italian upholstery. The food is to die for. Enjoy entrees such as grilled duckling breast with ginger and sundried cherry sauce, or rack of lamb with pecans and homemade barbecue sauce. See p. 97.
THE BEST DESTINATIONS FOR SERIOUS SHOPPERS Fore Street (Portland; & 07/775-77): Fore Street is one of New England s most celebrated restaurants listed as one of Gourmet magazine s 00 best restaurants in 00, and the chef has been getting lots of press elsewhere. His secret? Simplicity, and lots of it. Some of the most memorable meals are prepared over an applewood grill. See p. 07. Primo (Rockland; & 07/596-0770): Melissa Kelly and Price Kushner create culinary magic on two floors of a century-old home at this winning Rockland bistro. Expect fancy treatments of foie gras, scallops, duck, steak, and the like, plus outstanding desserts and an impressively long wine list. See p. 6. 4 The Best Local Dining Experiences Becky s (Portland; & 07/773- reasonably priced and delicious at 7070): Five different kinds of this hidden spot, part of a marina home fries on the menu? It s breakfast nirvana at this local institution Blueberry muffins come with most at the end of a dead-end road. on the working waterfront. It s a meals. See chapter 6. favored hangout of fishermen, high Thurston s Lobster Pound school kids, businessmen, and just (Bernard; & 07/44-7600). It about everyone else. See p.. doesn t get much more local than Silly s (Portland; & 07/77- this place, perched above the water 0360): Hectic and fun, this tiny, with atmospheric views on the informal, kitschy restaurant serves so-called quiet side of Mount up delicious finger food, such as Desert Island. Order lobsters, of pita wraps, hamburgers, and pizza. course (choose your size from the The milkshakes alone are worth tank at the counter), plus sides of the detour. See p.. corn on the cob, steamed clams, Dolphin Marina (South Harpswell; & 07/833-6000): The fish join the happy crowds upstairs or blueberry cake, and beer. Then chowder and lobster stew are down. See chapter 8. 5 The Best Destinations for Serious Shoppers Kittery: There are tons of outlets outlets, but you ll also find Patagonia, J. Crew, Dansk, Brooks on Route of this otherwise sleepy hamlet; you re bound to find something good at a low price, whether others. This is the most aestheti- Brothers, Levi s, and about 00 it s at Crate & Barrel, or Coach, or cally pleasing of the several outlet Seiko, or GAP, or... well, wherever. See chapter 4. See chapter 6. centers in northern New England. Portland: A city this size really Portsmouth, New Hampshire: ought to have more than it does Downtown Portsmouth offers a the Old Port, the chief shopping grab bag of small, manageable, district, is in serious danger of eclectic shops, ranging from funky becoming Tweesville but you can shoe stores to classy art galleries. still find great little boutiques and The downtown district is small shops if you look hard enough. See enough to browse leisurely on foot, chapter 5. but you ll find a broad assortment Freeport: L.L.Bean is the anchor of stuff for sale that will appeal to store for this thriving town of almost any taste. See chapter 0.