The distances between towns varies depending upon which map or guidebook you look at or the signs along the way. So, the distances that I give below are intended as a rough estimate. Be aware that 5km at the end of the day is nowhere near the same distance as 5km at the beginning of the day. Finding a place to stay each night is a big part of the camino experience and one that I would not want to deprive anyone of experiencing (besides which I am NOT about to take responsibility for making arrangements for anyone else). Your choice of where to stay will depend upon your budget and upon your pace. I have made some recommendations based upon my own limited experience but there are many more options. A current list of albergues is available here and a handout is available at the Camino office in St Jean Piedde-Port. Albergues can fill up early causing stress and problems and necessitating a lot of patience. Most albergues do not make reservations; it is first come, first serve. However, it may be possible for one of our group to try and hold beds for others in the group and it will be very helpful for us to be able to share information with one another about the availability of beds and any changes in plans for our check-in circles or communal dinners. For this reason, I ask that everyone have a cell phone capable of sending and receiving SMS text messages in Spain. I use the Orange network and the cost for voice, data and unlimited SMS is around 15 per month. Every person s camino is his/her own individual experience. There are multiple choices to be made along the way and this is part of the fun of the camino. People have different walking paces and different fitness and endurance levels. So, one person s camino may be way to slow or way to difficult for another person. You may also meet other people on the camino and decide that you want to walk with them and this can influence your pace and where you end up each day. So, there is really no way to plan or prescribe a camino itinerary. What I have developed is an itinerary based upon walking between 20km and 25km per day and staying in what I have found to be interesting places. Since there is no way to assure availability of beds in the albergues, this itinerary is subject to change. What I have attempted to do is to create a few checkpoints along the way. These are days off in some of the larger cities where there are things to do and see. These are also days when new members may be joining the group and will be good days for anyone who is unable to do the entire camino to depart. On these days off, I will be hosting a Flow Game as a way of welcoming new members and saying goodbye to anyone who is leaving us. Of course, this Flow
Game is entirely optional - just like everything on this camino. If your pace (or your interest) does not allow you to join, no problem. Day 0 Arrive at St Jean Pied-de-Port France May 26 Bus arrives from Pamplona around 4pm Train arrives from Bayonne - check time Get Camino passport at the Camino office at the top of the hill on the main street in the old town Reservations at L Espirit du Chamin (only night that accommodations will be pre-arranged so don t get used to it) Bed = 8 Dinner = 9 Optional breakfast = 3 Optional lunch = 3 (recommended as there is nowhere to eat on the route over the mountain) There is a market in St Jean to buy fruit or snacks but it is not open on Sundays Introductory circle at 5:30pm in the meditation hut above the albergue Dinner at 7:00 Day 1 St Jean Pied-de-Port (774) to Roncevalles (749) May 27 This is the most physically challenging day on the camino for most people There are two routes The Napoleon route climbs over the Cize Pass 26 km The other route follows the road - longer but not as much elevation gain and not as scenic One alternative is to break this stage into two days First day to Orrison where there is a pension. Have heard very good things about it but have not stayed there. There are only 8 beds and reservations are necessary. With this option, you will be out of synch with the rest of the group unless you begin a day earlier and miss the introductory circle Another option is to take a taxi to Roncevalles and begin the camino there with the rest of the group Another option is to send your pack by transport to Roncevalles and walk without just a day pack However, most everyone survives this stage, so just do it! In Roncevalles, there is only one albergue - in the old monastery Price = 10 The first 144 people to arrive are assigned beds on the first 2 floors in bunk beds in groups of 4
The next 40 people to arrive are assigned to the third floor which has single beds in groups of two (much nicer) However, after the first 184 people, everyone else is assigned to the overflow area which is one large non-remodeled area There are 3 restaurants serving Pilgrims Meal Cost = 9 at each of them Dinner is in shifts beginning at 7pm Reservation (and payment) required before 6pm I plan to eat at the Hostal Restaurant A check-in circle will begin at 5:30 in the basement of the albergue (near the laundry area) Day 2 Roncevalles(749) to Zubiri(727)/Larrasoana(721) May 28 Zubiri is about 21.5 km from Roncevalles Larrasoana is about 26km from Roncevalles Zubiri and Larrasoana both have multiple albergues and other lodging options The albergues can fill up early in the afternoon so flexibility and/or an early start are recommended. There are municipal albergues in both towns Price = 6 Tend to be crowded and cleanliness is very questionable I don t recommend these There are private albergues in both towns Price = 10 Pensions and hotels are also available Price = 20 and up Check-in circle and dinner option will be in Zubiri at a place to be determined If you cannot find a room in Zubiri and need to go on to Larrasoana, you will probably not be part of the check-in Day 3 Zubiri(727)/Larrasoana(721) to Pamplona(706) May 29 Pamplona is the largest city on the camino with a rich history and a beautiful old wall and architecture Recommend staying either in Trinidad de Arre/Villava(711) (about 4km before Pamplona) or in Cizur Menos(701) (about 5km beyond Pamplona) There is bus service from both Trinidad de Arre and Cizur Menos into Pamplons My recommendation is to check in early into one of the albergues and then take the bus into Pamplona for sight seeing and dinner (nice to do without your backpack)
There will be an option for a group dinner and conversation. A volunteer is invited to chose a restaurant and inform the group. Pamplona is about 25km from Zibiri Trinidad de Arre The Albergue de Hemanos Maristas is a lovely albergue operated by volunteers. It has an attached chapel that has been in continual use by pilgrims for over 1000 years. I have stayed there and recommend it. This albergue is right on the river just as you come off the bridge. Go through the archway and immediately turn right. There is also a municipal albergue in Arre Pamplona has several albergues and many hotels and pensions. However, I prefer to stay outside the city. Cizur Menor is a modern and attractive suburb on the west side of Pamplona with an ancient Order of Malta chapel One albergue is associated with the chapel. Price = 5. I have stayed here and recommend it. As you climb the hill to Cizur Menos, you will see the chapel on the left with a flag flying above it. There is a second private albergue on the right a little further into town. Price = 10 Day 4 Pamplona(706) to Puente la Reina(683) May 30 Side trip to Eunate to see the old octagonal church (I recommend it) Puente la Reina has multiple albergues Only one I have stayed in is Jakue which is located in a nice hotel My experience was in a shared room with 2 others for 40 Doors were locked in the early morning forcing an escape through the emergency exit and climbing over a locked gate Buffet dinner available but no experience with it There will be an option for a group dinner and conversation. A volunteer is invited to chose a restaurant and inform the group. There are multiple restaurants in Puente la Reina offering Pilgrims Meal. Day 5 Puente la Reina(683) to Estella(661) May 31 Estella has multiple albergues I have stayed at the Parochial Albergue It is donativo and sometimes offers an evening meal. When I stayed there, I had the men s dorm to myself The doors were locked until 6am There will be an option for a group dinner and conversation. A volunteer is invited to chose a restaurant and inform the group. There are multiple restaurants in Estella offering Pilgrims Meal.
Estella has a Dia% food store with lots of variety and good prices. This is the place to stock up because it will be several days before the next supermarket and depending upon choice of route, it may be a distance to the next source of food. The library on Calle Mayor offers free wifi and has a nice patio where you can make private skype calls. Day 6 Estella(661) to Los Arcos(640) June 1 Irache winery offers free wine fountain It appears that the fountain is open 24 hours as I was able to access it in the early morning. Take an extra water bottle to fill for lunch. There is also a wine museum but I have not visited it and it does not open until later in the day. Just past Irache, the Camino takes two routes. The right hand route goes through the town of Villamayor Montjardin, right at the base of the prominent mountain. There is an albergue in Villamayor where I have stayed and have some reservations about. It tends to be noisy (revelers in the street and church bells) and the hospitalier is an evangelical Christian who is a bit pushy for my comfort. Otherwise a nice facility. The left hand route follows the other side of the valley and passes through some beautiful forest. It also offers nice morning lighting for photos. However, there are fewer places to purchase food on this route. Choice of routes also depends upon season and time of day. Once the two routes rejoin, the way goes through agricultural land without much shade. An early start is recommended. Los Arcos has several albergues. I have stayed at the municipal and found it to be satisfactory. Like most municipal albergues, it is large and a bit crowded but inexpensive. People began moving very early in the morning. There is an Austrian albergue which looks kinda funky and interesting. There is wifi in the plaza. Code is required so buy something to drink. The plaza has access to the two or three restaurants which offer Pilgrim Meals as well as other options. There will be an option for a group dinner and conversation in the plaza. Time to be determined. Day 7 Los Arcos(640) to Logrono(612) June 2 Logrono is a cathedral city with a large population and lots of options for food and places to sleep.
The Los Arcos to Logrono stage is about 28km without any large climbs but with some stretches without shade. The last 5km is on pavement without shade and can be a challenge at the end of the day. Viana is about 10km from Logrono and has several albergues (I have not stayed there) so this is an option if Logrono is too far. Logrono has a lot of options for food - an entire neighborhood of tapas bars. If the group is staying in Logrono, we can self-organize a group meal. Logrono also has several albergues. I have stayed at the albergue on Calle Puente (straight ahead right across the bridge). It was satisfactory but large. I have also stayed at the Parochial Albergue above the church of Santiago on Rua Viaje. It is donativo with pads on the floor and a communal meal. I recommend it if you don t mind simplicity. There is also a municipal albergue on Rua Viaje. Day 8 Rest Day in Logrono(612) June 3 Logrono will be our first rest day. My plan is to offer a Flow Game on Day 8 and to welcome any new participants and to say farewell to anyone leaving at this point. Of course, this is an optional activity but will hopefully be a way of integrating new participants and an opportunity for more reflection. Bring a question. This should be a personal question that you welcome input from others in exploring. If some of the group choses to stay in Viana, we will schedule the Flow Game for late morning and afternoon. Albergues do not generally allow people to stay for more than one night so it may be necessary to move from one albergue to another. However, I intend to see if it is possible to stay more than one night at the Parochial Albergue. Logrono has at least a couple of supermarkets. On the Camino on the way out of town there is a Dia on the right side of the street. Just before leaving the city, there is a Simply store. Beware that neither are open early in the morning. Day 9 Logrono(612) to Najera(583) June 4 Beware. The signs are not as plentiful or as clear in Rioja as they were in Navarra. It is easy to miss a sign and spend time lost or back tracking. This is proposed as a long day - about 30km. It is generally flat and not as physically demanding as some of the previous days. Food is available in Navarrette and Vendosa. There are at least a couple of albergues in Najera.
The municipal albergue is on the river to the left after crossing the bridge. I have stayed at the municipal and find it to be a typical (somewhat large and crowded) municipal albergue. However, it is a donativo and this seems to elicit a much more friendly and cooperative atmosphere. There is a kitchen available at the municipal albergue and a number of people cook cooperative meals. Will someone in our group volunteer to self-organize a meal? There is an area outside the albergue for socializing where we could have our evening check-in. Or there are several bars along the river with outside tables that would also work well. Day 10 Najera(583) to Grañon(554) June 5 This is a long day (29km) but the terrain is not too difficult and the albergue at Grañon is my favorite on the whole Camino. It is a donativo in a 500 year old church. Collective meal, option for a pilgrim s blessing in the church and a circle process hosted by the hospitalieros after dinner. Be sure to chose the albergue on the left behind the church. The one on the right on the main road has been referred to as the hippie albergue and I have heard that it is very strange. A shorter alternative is to stay in the cathedral city of Santa Domingo de la Caldaza. There are two albegues in Santa Domingo that I am familiar with. On the right is the large Casa del Santo albergue. It is large and quite modern. While donativo in name, it is my experience that there is a lot of pressure to contribute and the spirit of donativo is lost. I would not recommend it. There is a much smaller albergue on the left (before you get to the Casa del Santo) called Albergue Abadia Cisterciense. It is run by the convent and is quite small and looks very interesting. Santo Domingo is the last large town for quite a ways so it is wise to stock up. There is a Dia supermarket on the left right before you enter the old city. In Santo Domingo, there is free wifi in the plaza behind the cathedral. The cathedral is supposed to be quite spectacular but requires paying an admission fee. Day 11 Grañon(554) to Tosantos(534) June 6 Tosantos is another special albergue. Donativo
Mats on the floor. Shared meal Circle after dinner. If Tosantos is too far, Belorado has a nice small parish albergue Donativo Kitchen available. Run by a Swiss co-fraternity Belorado is a moderately sized city with a supermarket on the main highway (not on the camino). This is the last supermarket until Burgos (2 days) Day 12 Tosantos(534) to Ages(511) June 7 Ages is a small town with three albergues. Many people choose to go an additional 3km to Atapuenca which is a more touristy town due to the nearby Unesco site of early human cave dwellings. I recommend the Casa Caraol, run by Anja. About 8 beds in a restored old house. Donativo Breakfast She does not normally take reservations but would be willing to if our group wants to stay there. In Atapuenca - 4km from Ages - there is an administrative headquarters for the Atapuenca archeological site. The actual site is several kilometers from the camino and is accessed by a bus that picks up passengers in Ages and Atapuenca around 4:45pm. The site is interesting as it has provided evidence of the oldest hominids in Europe. However, when I visited, the guide s presentation was in Spanish and it was very difficult to understand. I found the museum in Burgos to be much more interesting and educational. If you want to visit the archeological site, I recommend staying in Ages and catching the bus from there (information available at the bar/market). Villafranca is an option along the way. I have heard that it has a grand old hotel with a few rooms set aside for pilgrims at a 5 Euros. Villafranca is also your last place to buy food or water for about 16km. The store is not right on the Camino. You need to continue on the main road for about 150 meters after the Camino turns uphill. San Juan at the end of the 12 mile stretch has a bar but no market. Day 13 Ages(511) to Burgos(489) June 8 Burgos is a cathedral city with much to see Cathedral tours - take pilgrim passport with you for half price admission
Museum of Human Evolution (I highly recommend) Lots of restaurants There are three albergues and lots of hotels Many people take an extra day in Burgos and since albergues limit to one night, they stay in hotels. I have heard that the price of a hotel room is around 90 euros for a room for three. Municipal Albergue is very large and modern and impersonal. It is very close to the cathedral on the street above the cathedral. There is an albergue above a small church on Calle Lain Calvo just a few minutes walk east of the cathedral. It is donativo and has capacity for about 16. This is my recommendation. The third albergue is also religious and donativo. I have not been there. It is on the south side of the river and can reached by turning south at the Museum of Human Evolution. About 15 minute walk from there. Entering Burgos, there are two routes - one through an industrial area and another past the airport and then along the river. I have not done the industrial area route. Follow directions carefully as the route can be a little confusing though it is fairly well marked. Once you get to the south side of the river just follow any of the foot or bike paths to the downtown area. At the appropriate bridge, you will see a large arch on the north side of the river through which you enter the cathedral area. Day 14 Rest Day in Burgos(489) June 9 This day is proposed as a rest day with several options for the group to decide among. If we have new members joining or old members leaving, I would like to offer a Flow Game. If not, the Flow Game is more optional. This could be a day for exploring the cathedral and museum. If we want to stay an extra day in Burgos, we will probably have to change albergues or stay in a pension/hotel. Another option would be to make this a semi-rest day and to do an afternoon walk to Tardejos or to Rabé de las Calzadas. Days 15 to 21 Burgos to Leon June 10 to June 16 From here, the itinerary gets a little uncertain as there are several factors which create trade-offs. Actual plans for Days 15 to 21 will be determined by the group. Burgos(489) to San Bol(463) Route finding out of Burgos can be a little challenging (at least for me) in the dark. The arrows and sidewalk scallops are often far apart. The route follows the main street above the cathedral past the major hotel
and then turns left and wanders until eventually crossing a bridge. After the bridge, turn right and follow the main street out of town (the markers on the south side of the street). Eventually, the route turns right onto a street through the university area and eventually past the prison. There are several albergues in both Hornillas and Hontanas though there is concern about the albergues filling early in Hornillas as many pilgrims leave Burgos each day. I have also heard a good report about a small albergue in Rabes de las Calzadas though I have no experience with it. Hospital Santa Marina y Santiago Next to the iglesia Plaza Fr Rubera ospital2004@yahoo.es I have heard that there is an albergue in Rabes de las Calzadas called Ospital Santa Maria y Santiago that was founded by Paulo Coehlo and is supposed to be very special. I have also heard good reports about the albergue in San Anton. One of my favorite albergues on the Camino is at San Bol. Small (capacity for about 12) 5 Euros for bed and 7 Euros for dinner Quiet and a bit primitive. There is plenty of hot water from gas heater but only 1 hour of electricity per day. San Bol(463) to Itero del Castillo(441) San Nicholas albergue at Itero del Castillo is on of my favorites and I would hate to miss it though this short day does create complications further on. San Nicholas is run by Italian volunteers who cook a fantastic Italian dinner served by candle light as there is no electricity in the 1100 year old building. Hot water and electricity are available in the bath house building. A blessing of the pilgrims and washing of the feet is also part of the package along with a breakfast. Donativo Itero del Castillo(441) to Ledigos(383) Around Day 16 (coinciding with the full moon) I would like to host a night walk for anyone interested. I propose to do this on one of the two stretches of Meseta that I find longest, most boring and most difficult - between Carrion de los Condes and Ledigos or between Sahahun and Reliegos. The plan would be to stop early on the afternoon before and to get some sleep before starting to walk around midnight or 1am.
We would walk through to the next morning at which point we would find somewhere that we can check in early. I have three conditions/expectations for the night walk. Total silence from beginning until sunrise. No artificial light except for emergency or essential navigation. We continue walking at least until sunrise. There are albergue options in the towns of Poblacion de Campos, Villalcruzar and many options in Carrion de Condes. Together the group doing a night walk will determine where to start. The albergue in Poblacion is very plain with a kitchen but the woman in the ajoining hotel who manages it is very friendly and helpful. The albergue in Villacruzar de Sirga is much more crowded. The templar church in Villacruzar de Sira is worth seeing. Fromista has a good little market on the main street. This is the last market for some ways and a good place to stock up on food for the night walk. The stretch between Villacazar de la Cueza and Ledigos is a very long stretch which can be especially difficult with a strong wind. I have heard several good reports concerning the monastery albergue in Carrion de Condes. It is operated by singing nuns and is supposed to be very special. There is an albergue and bar in Calzadilla de la Cueza complete with a swimming pool. However it is very crowded with a coed bathroom and I do not recommend it. In Ledigos there is one albergue. It is decent with a meal served at 8:00. Has a functional kitchen but no shops available in the town to buy food. Ledigos(383) to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos(361) Terradillos de los Templars is 7km beyond Ledigos and has 2 private albergues that seem much more spacious and comfortable than the one in Ledigos. Sahagun is a big town with interesting architecture and markets. Calzada del Coto(362) to Mansilla(330) Two routes between Sahagun and Reliegos. The route on the left is referred to as the French route and the one on the right as the Roman route (there are some stretches of the original Roman road remaining). I have not walked the French route as it follows alongside a highway. The Roman route has another long stretch without food or water between Calzadilla de los Hermanillos and Reliegos. There is a kitchen in the albergue in Hermanillos but you best food before leaving Sahagun.
The albergue in Calzada de Corto is self-service and had no one else staying there when I stayed. As you approach Reliegos on the Roman route, there is a choice to either go into Reliegos and then on to Mansilla de las Mulas or to go directly to Mansilla. My experience is that it is preferable to go to Reliegos as the other route is poorly marked and poorly loved. In Reliegos, Gil s Bar is a classic. Mansilla(330) to Leon(312) The highlight of this stage is the pastelaria just past the big bridge in Puente Villarente. There are two routes into Leon. I have chosen the left route which turns off just after an overpass over a main highway. This route goes past the airport and then follows the river into the city. Continue along the river for what seems a very long ways before crossing the bridge and entering the old city through the large arch. Leon has the Museum of Human Evolution which I found very fascinating and worth spending a few hours. Leon also has a very popular cathedral with an admission fee and guided audio tour. There is a large, modern, spacious (and soul-less) albergue very close to the cathedral. There is a smaller parochial albergue Monasterio de Benedictinas about 5 minutes away. donativo kitchen (but alcohol not allowed) Day 22 Leon(312) to La Virgen del Camino(304) June 17 This is a semi-rest day. I propose to do a Flow Game for anyone interested and to welcome any new members who are joining in Leon. This schedule will also allow additional time for visiting the cathedral or museum or doing other city stuff. In the afternoon, we walk 7km to La Virgen del Camino which is essentially a suburb of Leon but provides a good start for the next day. There is a large and comfortable municipal albergue in La Virgn del Camino (possible location for Flow Game) with a good kitchen. Would be a good place for a communal dinner but there are no good shops in town so food should be purchased in Leon. Days 23 to 34 La Virgen del Camino(304) to Santiago (0) June 18 to June 29 This final phase of the journey will be self-organized by the group. I have allocated 12 days to cover the 304km - an average of 25km per
day. If the group feels like moving faster, this could allow addition time in Santiago or a trip to Finisterre/Muxia. La Virgen del Camino(304) to Hospital de Orbigo(282) Villar de Mazarife offers choices of albergues. I have stayed at the Casa de Jesus albergue which is a funky place covered with years of graffiti. It also has a bar which was the party place for the locals until 4am on a weekend night. I have also heard good things about Meson Tio Pepe in the center of town. There are some decent small markets in town. There is a newer albergue called Santa Lucia in Villavante which offers nice clean and spacious rooms with lots of light. I have eaten there but not stayed in the albergue. Hospital de Orbigo is a little larger town with lots of life. Albergue Verde is one of my favorites. It is a little walk from the center of town but well marked by signs and even a person welcome by bicycle. It offers a communal vegetarian dinner and a nice breakfast available at any hour of the morning. There is also a free yoga class offered in the morning. There is a fixed price of 9 euros for the bed; dinner and breakfast are donativo. I have also heard good reports about the municipal albergue in Hospital. Hospital de Orbigo(282) to Astorga (266) I have heard good reports of the albergue in Villares de Orbigo but have no personal experience with it. At the top of the hill before Astorga is a donativo stand offering food and water and encouragement. I have heard a number of people say what a positive experience it was to stop and talk with David who operates it. I have also heard second hand reports that he is a bit creepy with young women. Astorga is a very interesting cathedral city. The cathedral itself is an attraction and it was open for free when I was there. Next to it is the Bishop s House, designed by Gaudi. It is open for an admission fee. Lots of good restaurants in Astorga and a good market. This would be a good place to stock up on lunch supplies as the towns are pretty small for the next couple of days. The municipal albergue in Astorga is big. It has typical crowded dorms but also has small 4 person rooms which are quite nice. It seems to be totally luck of the draw which you receive and their is no difference in price.
There is also a free albergue called Siervos de Maria with a dinner that looks interesting but I don t anything more about it. Another option that I would consider is to stay in the town of Santo Justos which is right before Astorga and to take the bus into Astorga to explore. There is on interesting albergue there called Pilgrim House (donativo with communal dinner) and there may be a second one before the city. Astorga(266) to Rabanal del Camino(244) In the town of Murias de Rechivaldo, just a few km past Astorga is a bar with wonderful and creative meals. On the left, just past the fountain. I recommend it. There are albergue options in each of the four towns as you climb the mountain. I have heard very good reports about the albergue in Santa Carolina though I ve not stayed there. In El Ganso the albergue is roomy and comfortable. Meals are limited to the two bars right next to each other. Nothing to recommend about the Cowboy Bar. This albergue does have a receptacle for recycling used batteries (not common on the Camino). There are several albergues in Rabanal del Camino. I stayed at La Senda which was fine. I heard very good things about the Gaucelmo which I would probably try if I were staying there again. There are also several restaurants in Rabanal. The church has vespers with Gregorian chanting. Rabanal del Camino(244) to Molinaseca(218) The final of the four, Foncebadon, a small and crumbing town, is the last town before Cruz de Ferro and the highest point on the Camino. In Foncebadon, there is a parish albergue run by volunteers. Like any volunteer run albergue, the experience probably depends a lot upon the volunteer. It is donativo with a communal dinner. A few km past Cruz de Ferro is Manjarín, one of the legends of the Camino. It is a very funky place offering donativo refreshments and souvenirs run by Tomas, one of the characters of the Camino and a modern day Knight Templar. The entire place is dedicated to maintaining the legacy of the Knights. There is also an albergue at Manjarin where I want to stay some time. It is very basic with pit toilets and spring water but includes an ancient Knights Templar protection ritual in the evening. El Acebo is a pleasant town with three albergues, multiple restaurants and a beautiful sunset. I have stayed at the parish
albergue, Apostol Santiago which offers a communal meal with the opportunity to help prepare it. I recommend it. Donativo Molinaseca is a larger town on the river with multiple restaurants and at least a couple of albergues. I stayed at the municipal which was a typical municipal - large, efficient, characterless. Actually, maybe I stayed at the private albergue which just felt like a municipal. Molinaseca(218) to Pieros(193) Ponferrada is a cathedral city with lots of restaurants and a very cool castle. The castle is open some days for tours though you have to be lucky enough to hit at the right time. Ponferrada is a good place to stock up on any supplies since it is the last city for several days. Between Ponferrada and Cacabelos is a wine cooperative that offers a large glass of wine and a pincho for 1 euro. I ve not stopped but have heard great reports of it. Cacabelos is a large town that is surprisingly forgettable to me except for the river. There is an albergue there connected to the church. I have heard mixed reports. The rooms are extraordinarily small and sleep just two people (so if you go alone, you take your chances who you will be sleeping with). The rooms have been described as claustrophobic. No matter how tired, I would walk the extra couple of kilometers to Pierros. In Pierros there is another of my favorite albergues. It is family owned and operated with the help of volunteers. It is in a lovely old stone house surrounded by vineyards. Vegetarian dinner and breakfast are offered at a fixed price (prepared by the volunteer staff). My experience is that the dinner is a great treat and the breakfast is overpriced for what you get. Pieros(193) to La Faba(163) Villafranca del Birzo is a beautiful town with lots of restaurants and albergues. I ve eaten but not slept there so no recommendations. Following Villafranca, the camino splits into three options. The left option climbs high above the Valcarce valley following poorly marked trails. It is a long and difficult route with no food or water along the way. Not recommended. The middle route follows the highway up the valley. I have not walked this route. The third route climbs up the right side of the valley and descends steeply through chestnut groves. It is a beautiful but demanding walk (one of the two or three most strenuous on the Camino in my experience). I recommend this option (at least for me).
After the routes rejoin, there is an albergue in Pereje but I don t know anything about it. The Camino follows the Valcarce Valley (which is probably my very favorite stretch of the Camino before Santiago) before climbing to O Cebreiro and into Galicia. Along this stretch of the valley, there are several small towns with albergues. I have heard good things about many of them. In Vega de Valcarce, there was a Brazilian albergue with a delicious Brazilian dinner. Its ownership has changed and I don t know anything about it now. There is a parochial albergue on the left, across the river and a little above the main town of Vega de Valcarce that I recommend. They offer a pilgrim prepared communal meal and an evening benediction circle. One of my favorites. Donativo. I have heard very good things about the albergue in Ruitelán that is run by two Buddhist brothers and offers a communal meal. In La Faba, there is another highly recommended albergue run by a German co-fraternity. This is right before the final climb to O Cebriero and consequently, there is a strong celebratory spirit in the town. For me, this stretch of the Camino is very special and enchanted and I love to plan my route to allow me to walk it in the early morning light. Hospital da Condesa(152) to San Mamed del Camino(122) O Cebriero is a small but lively (touristy) town at the top of the pass where you enter Galicia. The church is one of my favorite on the Camino. Very old, simple with the history of St. Francis of Assisi having worshiped there on his pilgrimage. Lots of restaurants and trinket shops. Just before O Cebriero, you will begin to see distance markers that measure the distance to Santiago every half kilometer. For some reason, these distances do not correspond to those in other references (about 10 km difference) but do seem to accurately reflect the distance to Santiago. Strangely, for some reason, they disappear about 12km from Santiago so you are left to guess the distance for the last few hours. The albergue in Hospital da Condesa is a typical Xunta albergue - Galician equivalent of municipals. Typically newly renovated school buildings. Clean, reasonably roomy but without character. Most have beautiful new kitchens totally lacking in any utensils.
Triacastela is a moderately sized city with many albergues. However, they also fill up quickly. When I was last there, all albergues and almost all hotel rooms were filled by 4pm. There are a couple of good stores in Triacastela. Beso is a tiny community about 2km beyond Triacastela with a wonderful Ecological Albergue. It has only 10 beds but they assured me that they would not turn anyone away. They offer a vegetarian dinner and breakfast. Bed 8 euros, dinner 8 euros, breakfast 3 euros. Recommend. When leaving Triacastela, there are two options. The main camino goes right at the road and quickly turns left. The alternative route turns left at the road to go to Samos. This route is about 1km further to Sarria but the initial section to Samos is 11km. I have heard wonderful things about Samos. The albergue is in an operational ancient monastery and the experience with the monks is supposed to be exceptional. The town of Samos is also quite old and less affected by the modern camino. I have not yet been to Samos but want to visit. San Mamed del Camino(122) to Mercadoiro(102) San Mamed is a town just before entering Sarria. The abergue is a nice private one that serves dinner (for an extra charge, if I remember correctly). There are no other places to eat nearby. Sarria is a small city with lots of pilgrim energy as it is the place that many Spanish pilgrims join the Camino to walk the final 100km to Santiago. Lots of places to eat in Sarria and lots of albergues though I have not stayed there. Mercadoiro(102) to Melide(56) There is an albergue and bar at Mercadoiro in an old stone house. It is a bit strange, resembling a rabbit warren with many small interconnected rooms that you need to walk through to get to the bathrooms. It is an adequate place to stay and has more character than a Xunta albergue but the proximity to Santiago is noticeable as the prices are higher from here on to Santiago. Private albergues in this final stretch before Santiago generally accept reservations by phone. Reportedly, some pilgrims call ahead and reserve at albergues in several several towns so that they will have a bed waiting wherever they end up. Other pilgrims refuse to deal with reservations and take their chances. In any case, the Camino experience changes with the increased concern over finding a bed. One strategy is to start earlier in the day so you can quit earlier in the afternoon. Another is to begin checking for an
available bed at each albergue you pass in the afternoon and to be willing to walk limited kilometers in exchange for a bed. Another strategy used by some pilgrims as they get closer to Santiago is to just push on, walk long distances and walk at night to avoid needing albergues. Ligonde is a small town with a typical Xunta albergue (clean, characterless with a nonfunctional kitchen) and nearby bar serving dinner. There are several Xunta albergues between Ligonde and Melide. Melide(56) to Santa Irene(24) Melide is another larger town/small city that is famous for the pulpo (octopus) restaurants. There is also a good pizza restaurant if octopus is not your thing. There are several private and one Xunta albergues in Melide. I have stayed at tow of the private ones, Albergues Periero and O Crucieros. O Crucieros is a fairly large and cramped albergue in an old multistory building on the main street in Melide. Periero is a new albergue opened in 2013. It is very comfortable and roomy with a good kitchen. Since Melide has both markets and kitchen, this could be a good place for organizing a home-cooked dinner if pulpo does not interest you. Santa Irene(24) to Santiago de Campostella (0) As you approach Santiago, one of the factors to consider in choosing where to stay is what time you want to arrive in Santiago. There is a Pilgrims Mass at the cathedral each day at noon with choice seats being taken starting around 11:00. There is something to be said for the experience of walking directly into Santiago and to the cathedral for mass. Of course, this means an early arrival. The other option is to arrive later in the day, to find an albergue, get your campolstella certificate, sightsee and attend the mass on the following day. Otherwise, the next albergues are in Pedrouzo, about 20km from Santiago. There are many albergues and restaurants in Pedrouzo. The only one that I have stayed at is Porto de Santiago, a newer and nice private albergue though fairly large. Pedrouzo can be a good staging point for an early morning walk into the cathedral for mass. Note that there is only one place to stop for coffee and breakfast on most of this stretch. It is a large cafeteria style coffee shop at the 13km mark. If you don t eat here, there is nothing for the next couple of hours.
I have also stayed at the Xunta albergue in Santa Irene. It is adequate and comfortable and a good staging point for a later arrival in Santiago. There are many albergues available in Santiago and many allow you to stay multiple nights. There is a huge albergue facility at Monte d Gozo, just as you arrive at Santiago, maybe 60 minutes walk from the cathedral. I don t know anything about it but it appears to be very large. I have stayed at an albergue on the way into town called something starting with an A. There are many signs advertising it and you will recognize the signs by the Star of David on them. This albergue is informal, funky, comfortable but quite a ways from the cathedral and center of the city - about a 45 minute walk. It does have a kitchen. The other one that I stayed at was Estella on the main Camino about 10 minutes from the cathedral. It was smaller than the other one and pretty roomy though not especially clean.