ECO-TEXTILE INTRODUCTION AND PROMOTION OF THE ECO-LABEL TO THE GREEK TEXTILE INDUSTRY LIFE03 ENV/GR/000204 LIFE - ENVIRONMENT LAYMAN S REPORT
Eco-Textile Project Eco-Textile was implemented within the framework of the E.E. LIFE ENVIRONMENT program, with 36 months duration from 1/10/2003 until 30/9/2006. Eco-Textile s main target was the promotion of the European Ecological Scheme Eco-label in Greece and especially in the textiles sector. The partnership of the project consisted of: HELLENIC FASHION INDUSTRY ASSOCIATION (SEPEE) SIGMA Consultants Ε.Π.Ε. (SIGMA) Clothing Textile & Fibre Technology Development Company (CLOTEFI) CONSUMERS ASSOCIATION FOR THE QUALITY OF LIFE (EKPIZO) Within the project s framework a number of different although combined actions took place, with the common target of promoting and expanding the implementation of Eco-Label to the textiles. Besides the above, through the project s implementation, an attempt was made in order to enforce the consumers ecological sensitization and the environmental protection. All the information about Eco-Textile project is available in the following website: www.eco-textile.gr The Eco-Label Scheme Eco-Label is the official ecological scheme of the European Union. The placement of the margarita logo on a product indicates its friendliness to the environment throughout its whole life cycle, beginning from the raw material, continuing with the production process, distribution, usage and concluding to its final disposal. Eco-Label is only assigned to products that measure up to particular and strict environmental criteria, which are instituted and revised from competent committees of the European Union. The greek certification body is called ASAOS. All the necessary information and legal framework about Eco-Label, not only on textiles but on other products and services as well, can be found in the following website: europa.eu.int/ ecolabel.
Why Eco-Label? The sector of clothing and textiles is particularly sensitive as it includes products which may come to direct contact with the human skin as well as products which surcharge the environment during the bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing processes, when they are not ecologically produced. When assigning Eco-Label to textile products: The body contact with substances which may cause allergies or even cancer is eliminated. The water and atmosphere pollution is limited. The residues of the hazard substances for man and the environment are decreased. The quality, resistance and friendliness of fibers, textiles and clothes are ensured. The obvious answer to the question why should a company follow the procedure of adopting Eco-Label? is that the company is interested in producing goods that are environmentally friendly contributing to the attempt of ecologic sensitization and promotion of sustainable growth. Along with the above, Eco-Label products certification can bring about economic benefits to the company, as it comprises a very important competitive advantage due to the following reasons: Dynamic growth of the market of ecologic products 2/3 of the European consumers are ready to buy ecologic products more often Public support from E.U., E.U. member states, environmental organizations, consumers unions High acknowledgment margarita is a characteristic logo. How were ECO-TEXTILE s targets accomplished? Based on the targets which were set in the beginning, a wide program of demonstration actions for the information and sensitization of the textile companies, competent bodies and consumers was formulated. The main actions undertaken were the following: Companies informing Consumers sensitization Eco-Label acknowledgement assessment Creation of a marketing group s network Training of enterprises staff Creation of Eco-Label support framework Implementation of demo Eco-Label projects. Sensitization campaign Within the framework of the sensitization campaign the following dissemination activities took place: Production of advertising leaflets concerning the Eco- Label scheme and the Eco- Textile project. Promotion of the leaflets to textile
enterprises, consumers, schools, conferences and other meetings and exhibitions. Elaboration of three informative workshops in Athens, Thessaloniki and Larisa, during the Eco-Label week in October 2004, and distribution of informative material. Creation of an advertising spot for Eco-Label certified clothes and Textiles, which is available on the Eco-Textiles website Elaboration of the final conference of the project in Thessaloniki, on the 28 th of September 2006 at ILEKTRA PALLAS Hotel. Creation of the Eco-Textile website www.eco-textile.gr, which is up to date with all the activities that took place and all the outputs that were created within the framework of Eco-Textile, Advertisements registrations for Eco-Label in weekly circulation magazines and publications in the following magazines: GREEKFASHION (SEPEE s magazine), ANOIXTH GRAMMI (EKPIZO s magazine) and BIORAMA Press releases in more than 15 wide circulation newspapers with the majority of them concerning the Eco- Label week and the final conference of the project. Marketing Group s Network For the implementation of the above mentioned activities the contribution of the Marketing Group s Network was very important. The Network was instituted within the project s framework and it consists of 70 members which have expresses and proved their willingness to contribute to the Eco-Label promotion in the greek market. Associated Bodies Committee The whole number of activities of the sensitization campaign had as main recipient 300 companies and bodies, with an either direct or indirect connection to the textiles sector, and which consisted through the project s duration the Associated Bodies Committee. Acknowledgement Assessment Researches Two researches were elaborated regarding the assessment of Eco-Label acknowledgment. The first assessment research was conducted near the
beginning of the project while the second one was conducted after the completion of the majority of the dissemination activities so as to depict their effectiveness. The methodology used was common in both researches and included the completion of 2 different, specially formulated questionnaires which were distributed to two different target groups respectively. The 1 st target group was the wide consuming audience, while the 2 nd target group was enterprises and bodies of the textiles sector. Training Seminars Two training seminars were conducted in Athens and Thessaloniki having as main subjects the Eco-Label scheme, the Environmental Management Schemes and the best techniques for industry waste minimization. Both seminars were attended by textiles and dyers staff. For the seminars needs a CD of education material was compiled and distributed. The textile enterprises that participated in the pilot implementations and the regarding products are shown in the following Table: Company «ΜΙΝΕRVΑ» S.A. ATHINAIA KARAMIXALIS S.A. VASSARAS CHARIS S.A. THESSALIA S GRADING SHED S.A. Product Underwear, 100%, cotton White underwear for special usage, cotton, elastan, naylon Knitted shirts, 100% cotton Cotton fibers The pilot implementations were completed with the technical support of CLOTEFI in the laboratories of which all the required quantitative tests for the candidate products were elaborated. Best Practice Guide The experience acquired from the pilot implementations was used for the compilation of the Best Practice Guide, which comprises a useful tool for the step by step guidance of the textiles companies that are interested in adopting Eco-Label for their products. Eco-Consultancy Office Eco-Label Pilot Implementations As far as the Eco-Label pilot implementations are concerned, four certification files were prepared and application forms were submitted to ASAOS on behalf of the textile companies. Finally, the Eco-Consultancy Office was instituted. The Eco-Consultancy Office operates in SEPEE s premises and is responsible for providing information and consulting support to every company that is interested in Eco-Label, by exploiting a. the supportive material that was created within Eco-Textile, b. CLOTEFI s as well as the rest of the partners know-how, and finally c. cooperations with European institutes and environmental organizations.
ECO-TEXTILE RESULTS The recipients of Eco-Textile actions and the targets per target -group were the following. α) The wide consumers audience. Eco- Textile s target towards consumers was the potential promotion and raise of Eco-Label acknowledgment. Concerning the wide consumers audience, the target was accomplished to a far higher rate compared to what was initially anticipated. The 1 st assessment research results defined the Eco-Label acknowledgment rate up to 1,2%. Based on the 2 nd assessment research results the rate rise to 30%! 40,00% 30,00% 20,00% 10,00% 0,00% 1,20% 1η ιαγνωστική Έρευνα 31% 2η ιαγνωστική Έρευνα This significant raise overcomes by far the target of 10% which was initially assigned by the project. β) The specialized audience which includes industry members, mostly from textiles sector, public organizations and non governmental bodies. Eco-Textile s target regarding the specialized audience, apart from the raise of Eco- Label acknowledgement, was to provoke their interest towards the support or implementation of Eco- Label. The accomplishment of the above mentioned target is proved through the following results: An active marketing group s network was instituted the member of which continue to participate and support informative activities and undertake initiatives for the dissemination of the European Ecological Scheme. The marketing group s network consists of 70 members coming from the textile industry, public authorities and non governmental bodies. The number of these members exceeded the initial aim of 50. The initiatives of the marketing group s network have a national range character. The Associated Bodies Committee was instituted, which consists of 300 members that are representatives of the textiles sector, champers, research bodies, institutes and environmental organizations. The members of the Associated Bodies Committee were the recipients of the marketing group s network initiatives and throughout the project s duration they actively participated in Eco-Label promotion, as it was shown through their dynamic presence in the three informative workshops, the two training seminars and the project s final conference. The research that was conducted via questionnaires, among the members of the Associated Bodies Committee for the final evaluation of the project, showed that 55,6% of the asked members are very much interested in participating in future Eco- Label dissemination activities while a 40,3% are interested enough in future Eco-Label dissemination activities.
Do you believe that EcoTextile contributed to the promotion of Eco-Label in Greece? 40,3%, little 0,0%, not at all 20,8%, very much 38,9%, enough Would like to participate in future Eco-Label dissemination activities? 40,3%, enough 4,2%, little 0,0%, not at all 55,6%, very much Regarding the above we can reach the conclusion that the impact of Eco- Textile on the target-groups was very strong and this is not confined within the project s time limits, but it shows a future potential through the revised marketing group s network and the expressed interest of the textiles companies. RESULTS SUSTAINABILITY The future sustainability and further promotion of Eco-Textile s results on a national and European level is ensured through the operation of the Eco- Consultancy Office. The main responsibility of the Eco- Consultancy Office is the consulting support and information of the companies that are interesting in Eco- Label certification. The target for the continuation of the Eco-Label dissemination activities in order to ensure the sustainability of the project s results will be accomplished through the Eco-Consultancy office participation in exhibitions, conferences, workshops, etc., related either to environmental or to textiles sector s issues. Within the tasks of Eco-Consultancy office, the co-operation with European research centres on technology transfer projects, has been foreseen and will be attempted. These potential cooperations will be the mean to reach the highest level of Eco-Textile outcomes dissemination on a European level. Within the project s framework a business plan for the Eco-Consultancy office was compiled, in which all the candidate institutes for a potential cooperation are presented, along with their main activities which might constitute a potential co-operation object. Besides the above, Eco-Consultancy office will be able to contact all the Eco- Label European Certification Bodies, like ASAOS. This will be a way to attain an overall, integrated updating regarding the evolution of Eco-Label certification processes in the other member-states of the European Union. Finally, at the Eco-Consultancy office all the necessary data concerning other ecological certification schemes of goods and services will be available. The successful and effective function of the Eco-Consultancy office is guaranteed through the following three very important factors:
a. The substantial infrastructure in informative material and useful tools, like the Best Practice Guide and the quick Eco-Label assessment tool, which were created within Eco-Textile framework. b. The wide flexibility and co-operations ability of SEPEE with textiles companies as it comprises the biggest union of the textile s sector in Greece, with more than 500 members among which the main clothing enterprises in Greece. c. The high level of CLOTEFI s laboratory infrastructure and know-how for the elaboration of tests and experiments required for the acquisition and of Eco-Label on the textile products. FINAL CONCLUSIONS Eco-Label comprises a voluntary scheme for ecological certification which is not imposed by any laws. Therefore, the most important reason that could motivate the industry towards the production of green products would be the massive demand on consumers behalf. This means that the consumers sensitization could impulse the industrial sector to the direction of a new environmental policy. Eco-Textile venture is evaluated as significantly successful since for the first time in Greece Eco-Label Scheme was systematically promoted on national level. In the beginning, the companies of the textiles sector seemed to face the adoption of Eco-Label with skepticism. The main reason for this was: a. The multi-phases of the certification process, b. The ambiguity regarding the competitive advantage of a product certified with Eco-Label, γ. The limited demand of products certified with Eco-Label from the consumers. Eco-Textile, via the conduction of the pilot implementations and the creation of the substantial infrastructure for the consulting and technical support of the interested companies, managed to reduce significantly the existing hesitation. In the same time it was clarified that Eco-Label is an important competitive advantage in an environment where only innovation and quality can counter for the cheap Asiatic products. However, what is required for an even more effective promotion of Eco-Label is the awareness of the consumers and producers environmental consciousness via a massive, intense and coordinated attempt and activation of the competent bodies on national as well as European level. Pass with the.. green light! Eco - Consultancy Office Ermou 18A, 54624, Thessaloniki, Greece tel.: +302310257075, fax: +302310257076 URL: http://www.ecotextile.gr