Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 642 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. AUTHOR THANKS Marika McAdam Thanks as always to my fellow authors for turning hard work and on-the-road adventures into so many great chapters. Thank you to my handsome husband Jo for supporting me in every journey I ve embarked on since our worlds first collided in Bangladesh. And eternal thanks to ever-inspiring Mum and Dad McAdam for taking me travelling throughout childhood, and always having the good sense to pack a Lonely Planet. Alexis Averbuck Hail Alexandra Stamopoulou for her spot-on recommendations. Marina Flenga was a superlative fairy godmother, connecting me to those in the know. Marilee Anargyrou Kyriazakou and Cali Doxiadis (in Kerkyra), Eleni Doxiadi (in Lefkada) and Manita Scocimara-Ponghis (in Kefallonia) shared their love and knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Lena Lambrinou decoded the Acropolis and Elina Lychoudi the nightlife. Anthy and Costas, as well as Margarita Kontzia and Kostas Karakatsanis, made it home. James Bainbridge A heartfelt çok teşekkürler, once again, to everyone who helped me find my way around the steppe on my last visit to northeastern Turkey. Celil in Kars and Necmettin in Akçaabat deserve special mention for your help on a few recent projects. Thanks, as ever, to everyone at Lonely Planet Tom, Dora, Angela, James, Cliff et al and to my wife Leigh-Robin. Mark Baker I met many helpful people all along the way in researching three countries for this guide and their names would too numerous to mention here. I ve lived in Prague for two decades now and a very special thanks to my good friends here; in Slovenia, the staff of the Slovenia Tourist Board deserve special mention. Chris Deliso As always a number of kind and helpful Macedonians (and other folks too), provided good tips, advice and assistance in the course of my research. Among them I can mention Pece, Patrice, Stevche, Emilija, Biljana, Dane, Stojko. Ace and Julija you know who you are! Of course, this book couldn t have been completed without the work of my patient and devoted Lonely Planet colleagues, including Katie O Connell, the map-making and production teams. Peter Dragicevich Many thanks to all the wonderful people who helped me in Montenegro, especially Ivica Erdelja, Hayley Wright and Jack Delf, Emma and Ben Heywood, Krstinja Petranović, Danica
Ćeranić and Matthew Lane. Also, I owe a debt of gratitude to James and Lorraine Hedderman, Tim Benzie and Kerri Tyler for their contributions before and after the journey. Mark Elliott Many thanks to Wieland de Hoon, Hans Rossel, Guy Jacobs, Dani Systermans, Lesley Devos, Valerie de Kerpel, Sharon Taylor, Jan Beran, Mišo Marić and the helpful folks at Travellers Home and New Age hostels. As ever my greatest thanks go to my endlessly inspiring family for so much liberating love. Tom Masters An enormous debt of thanks to all my hardworking fellow authors on this book, and the teams in London and Melbourne who commissioned, edited and oversaw the project. Special thanks in Albania to Ardi Pulaj, Catherine Bohne, Tedi Sina and Bledi Strakosha; and in Kosovo to Hekuran Avdyli and the folks at Libertas in Pristina. Craig McLachlan A hearty thanks to all those who helped me out on the road, but most of all, to my exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who let me know when I d had my daily quota of Mythos and gyros pitta. Anja Mutić Hvala mama, for your home cooking and contagious laughter. Obrigada, Hoji, for being there before, during and after. A huge hvala to my friends in Croatia who gave me endless recommendations this book wouldn t be the same without you. Special thanks go to Lidija in Zagreb and Mila in Split, as well as the team at HTZ. Finally, to the inspiring memory of my father who travels with me still. Tamara Sheward To research here is to make a zillion friends, so in addition to thanking the population of Serbia, I d like to offer clinks of the rakija glass and mnogo hvala na the NS Kiosk Crew, Gagi of Niš, Toma of Mokra Gora, Zoran for saving us from snakes and wolves, all the helpful oddballs we met during our medeni mesec/research jaunt, Dragana Eremić, the Ljesević family, the Lučić clan, Pappa and Mumma, and as ever, to Dušan, najbolje, najslađi čovek u svemiru! ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44. Cover photograph: Stari Most, Mostar, Bosnia and Hercegovina, Richard I Anson/ Getty Images. BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Many people have helped to create this 1st edition of Lonely Planet s Southeastern Europe guidebook, which is part of Lonely Planet s Europe series. Other titles in this series include Western Europe, Eastern Europe, Mediterranean Europe, Central Europe, Scandinavia and Europe on a Shoestring. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editors Erin Corrigan, Jo Cooke, Lucy Monie Hall, James Smart Coordinating Editor Samantha Forge Coordinating Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Coordinating Layout Designer Lauren Egan Managing Editors Annelies Mertens, Angela Tinson Managing Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Anthony Phelan, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Briohny Hooper, Anne Mason Assisting Cartographers Xavier Di Toro Assisting Layout Designer Frank Deim Cover Research Kylie McLaughlin Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Elin Berglund, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Darren O Connell, Trent Paton, Dianne Schallmeiner, Kerrianne Southway, Gerard Walker, Amanda Williamson
644 A accommodation 610-12, see also individual locations Acropolis (Athens) 241 activities 20, 22-4, 612-13, see also individual activities Adana 579 adventure sports 612 Aegean Coast 546-64, 547 Aegina 270 Agia Roumeli 289, 290 Agiasos 303 Agios Georgios 291 Agios Gordios 308 Agios Nikitas 308 Agios Nikolaos 291 Ahmet I of Turkey 527 air travel 19, 621-2, 623 Alaçatı 554 Alanya 577-8 Albania 36-68, 38 accommodation 36, 64-5 activities 65 arts 63-4 budget 37 business hours 65 climate 36 costs 37 drinking 64 economy 60 embassies 65 environment 64 exchange rates 37 food 36, 37, 64, 65 highlights 38 history 60-3 internet access 65 internet resources 37 itineraries 37 money 37, 65 people 63 planning 36-7 000 Map pages 000 Photo pages politics 60 postal services 65-6 public holidays 66 telephone services 66 tourist information 66 travel to/from 37, 66-7 travel within 67-8 visas 66 Albanian (language) 630-1 Albena 154 Alcaeus 314 Alexandroupolis 267 Alonnisos 305 Amasya 582 An Eternity and One Day 315 Anamur 578 Anatolia 580-3 Anavatos 300 Andrić, Ivo 99 Ankara 580-2 Antakya 579-80 Antalya 573-6, 574 Antiparos 276, 275 Apollonia 51 Arbanasi 142 archaeological sites & ruins Acropolis (Athens) 241 Acropolis of Lindos (Rhodes) 294 Agora (Athens) 242 Akrotiri (Santorini) 281 Amphitheatre of Durrës 50 Ancient Delphi 262 Ancient Mycenae 259 Ancient Olympia 262 Asklipieion (Kos) 296 Butrint 58 Corinth & Acrocorinth 257 Delos 274 Ephesus 556 Ireon (Samos) 299 Kamiros (Rhodes) 294 Knossos (Crete) 286 Mediana (Niš) 476 Melnik 128 Nea Moni (Chios) 300 Parthenon (Athens) 241, 10 Pergamum (Bergama) 551 Phaestos (Crete) 286 Roman Thermae (Varna) 149 Skarkos (Ios) 279 Stari Bar 378 Stobi 359 Temple of Aphaia (Aegina) 270 Temple of Apollo (Naxos) 277 Temple of Artemis (Selçuk) 555 Temple of Athena Nike (Athens) 241 Temple of Olympian Zeus. (Athens) 242 Temple of Zeus (Olympia) 262 Theatre of Dionysos (Athens) 241 Žabljak Crnojevića 382 area codes 618 Areopoli 261 Argostoli 309 Arkadia 259 Aspendos 576 Assos 549-50 Atatürk, Mustafa Kemal 594 Athani 308 Athens 237-53, 238-9, 246, 10 accommodation 244-7 climate 235 drinking 249 entertainment 249-51 festivals & events 244 food 247-9 history 240-1 itineraries 241-324 safety 251 shopping 251 sights 241-3, 244 tourist information 252 tours 243 travel to/from 252 travel within 252-3 ATMs 616 Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 531, 2 Ayvalık 550-1 B Bachkovo Monastery 136 Baderishka Polyana 129 Badron Gorge 259 Balchik 153-4 Banat 423-7 Banja Luka 101-3 Bansko 129-30 Bar 378-9 Bârsana 431 basics 18-19 bathrooms 619 Bay of Kotor 12, 370, 12 beaches 20 bears 409 beer Albania 64 Bulgaria 114 Croatia 228, 228-34 Kosovo 335 Macedonia 338, 363 Romania 451 Slovenia 520 Behramkale 549-50 Belgrade 460-71, 462-3 accommodation 465-6
645 drinking 467-8 entertainment 468-9 food 466-7 history 460 information 470 itineraries 460 shopping 470 sights 460-1, 464-5 tours 465 travel to/from 470-1 travel within 471 Belogradchik 161-2 Belogradchik Rocks 162 Berat 14, 51-4, 14 Bergama 551-2 Beyoğlu 534-5, 11 bicycling, see cycling Biertan 417 BiH, see Bosnia & Hercegovina Bihać 103-4 biking, see cycling birdwatching (Macedonia) 359 Bitola 355-6 Bjelašnica 85 Bjelila 373 Black Lake 387 Black Sea 17, 149-60 Black Sea coast 439-47, 439 Blagaj 94 Bled 500-4, 502 Blue Mosque (İstanbul) 527 boat travel 19, 622, 624 Bobotov Kuk 387 Bodrum 559-63, 560 Bohinj 504-6 Bosnia & Hercegovina 69-112, 71, 106 accommodation 69, 109 activities 109-10 arts 108-9 budget 70 business hours 110 climate 69 drinking 70 environment 109 exchange rates 70 food 69, 70, 110 highlights 71 history 105-8 internet access 110 internet resources 70 itineraries 70 language 109, 633 money 70, 110 people 108 planning 69-70 politics 105 postal services 110 public holidays 110 safety 110 telephone services 110 travel to/from 70, 111 travel within 111-12 visas 111 Bosphorus 535 Botiza 431 Bouzianis, George 315 Bovec 507-8 Boyana 125-6 Bozburun Peninsula 563 brandy Albania 37 Bosnia & Hercegovina 70 Bulgaria 165-6 Croatia 228, 228-34 Macedonia 338, 363 Montenegro 368 Romania 396, 451 Serbia 458, 482 Slovenia 486, 520 Braşov 412-16, 414 Bucegi Mountains 413 Bucharest 397-408, 398-9, 402-3 accommodation 404-5 drinking 405-6 entertainment 406 food 405 information 406-7 shopping 406 sights 397, 400-1 travel to/from 407-8 travel within 408 budgeting 18-19 Budva 376-7 Bulgaria 113-14, 113-70, 115 accommodation 113, 166 activities 166 arts 163-4 budget 114 business hours 166-7 climate 113 drinking 114, 165-6 embassies 167 environment 164-5 exchange rates 114 food 113, 114, 165-6, 167 highlights 115 history 162-3 internet access 167 internet resources 114 itineraries 114 legal matters 167 money 114, 167-8 people 163 planning 113-14 public holidays 168 safety 168 telephone services 168 travel to/from 114, 168-9 travel within 169-70 visas 168 Bulgarian (language) 631-2 Burgas 156-8 Bursa 544-6 bus travel 18, 622, 624-5 business hours 613, see also Butrint 58 Butterfly Valley 565, 566 Byala 155 C camping 610 Çanakkale 548-9 canoeing, see kayaking Cape Keri 311 Cappadocia 583-9 car travel 19, 622, 625-6 Carnival (Croatia) 22 carpets (Turkey) 596 castles, fortresses & palaces Baba Vida Museum-Fortress (Vidin) 161 Bled Castle 500 Bran Castle 416, 16 Car Samoil s Castle (Ohrid) 351 Castle of Lëkurësit (Saranda) 56 Castle of St Peter (Bodrum) 559 Cherven Fortress (Rusenski Lom Nature Park) 148 City of Residence Citadel (Suceava) 435 Diocletian s Palace (Split) 204-7 Doboj 103 Fortica (Hvar Town) 212 Fortress of Justinian (Tirana) 40-1 Gjirokastra Castle 59 Gradačac 103 Kalasa (Berat) 52 Kalemegdan Citadel (Belgrade) 460 Kaleto Fortress (Belogradchik) 162 Kanli-Kula (Herceg Novi) 370 Ljubljana Castle 488 Maribor Castle 517 Niš Fortress 475 Palace of Princess Ljubica 461 Palaio Frourio (Corfu) 307 Peleş Castle 409 Pelişor Palace 409 Petrovaradin Citadel 472 Petrović Palace (Podgorica) 383 Predjama Castle 510 Ptuj Castle 518 Râşnov Fortress 416 Rector s Palace (Dubrovnik) 219 INDEX B-C
646 INDEX C-D castles, fortresses & palaces continued Roman Fortress of Sexaginta Prista (Ruse) 146-7 Royal Palace (Sofia) 116 Rozafa Fortress (Shkodra) 46-7 Shumen Fortress 144 Smederevo Fortress 469 Španjola Fortress (Herceg Novi) 370 Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik) 219 Srebrenik 103 Stari Grad (Travnik) 99 Tešanj 103 Topkapı Palace (İstanbul) 530 Trsat Castle (Rijeka) 196 Tsarevets Fortress. (Veliko Târnovo) 139 Tvrdina Kale Fortress (Skopje) 341 Vranduk 103 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Ceauşescu, Nicolea 424 cell phones 618 Çeşme Peninsula 554 Cetinje 380-1 Chagall, Marc 302 children, travel with 613 Chios 299-301 Christo Javacheff 165 churches & cathedrals Akdamar Kilisesi (Lake Van) 592 Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 531 Berat 52 Cathedral of Christ s Resurrection (Podgorica) 383 Cathedral of St Domnius (Split) 205 Cathedral of St George (Piran) 513 Cathedral of St Lovro. (Trogir) 211-12 Cathedral of the Assumption (Koper) 511 Cathedral of the Assumption. (Krk Town) 200 Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) 173 Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin (Dubrovnik) 219 Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo (Ohrid) 351, 15 Church of the Dormition of St Mary (Berat) 52 Metropolitan Cathedral. (Timişoara) 424 Moldavian Metropolitan Cathedral (Iaşi) 432 Orthodox Cathedral of Christ Saviour (Banja Luka) 102 000 Map pages 000 Photo pages Patriarchal Cathedral. (Bucharest) 400 St Mark s Cathedral (Korčula Island) 215 St Tryphon s Cathedral (Kotor) 373 Sveta Nedelya Cathedral (Sofia) 117 Sveta Sofija Cathedral (Ohrid) 352 cinema, see also film festivals Albania 63 Bosnia & Hercegovina 109 Romania 450 Slovenia 520 Turkey 597 Çirali 571-2 Cişmigiu Garden 401 climate 18, 22-4, see also individual countries climate change 622 Cluj-Napoca 420-3, 422 communism Albania 62 Bulgaria 163 Romania 448 Constanţa 444-5 Constantinople, see Istanbul consulates, see embassies & consulates Corfu 305-8, 306 Corfu Town 306-7 Corinth 256-7 Coşkun, Celal 596 Cres 201 Crete 283-91, 284-5 Crişana 423-7 Croatia 171-234, 229-30, 174-5 accommodation 171, 229 arts 226-7 books 226 budget 172 business hours 230 climate 171 drinking 172, 228-9 economy 225 embassies 230 environment 227-8 exchange rates 172 food 171, 172, 228-9, 230 highlights 174 history 225-6 Homeland War 225-6 internet resources 172 itineraries 172 money 172, 230-1 people 226 planning 171-2 politics 224-5, 226 public holidays 231 telephone services 231 tourist information 231 travel to/from 172, 232 travel within 232-4 visas 231-2 Croatian (language) 633-4 Cyclades 271-83 cycling 19, 612, 623-4 Bulgaria 166 Croatia 189, 192, 195, 217, 229 Greece 322 Montenegro 383, 386 Romania 409 Slovenia 504, 506, 507 D Dalmatia 201-24 Danube Delta 439-44, 440 Datça Peninsula 563 Delos 274 Delphi 262-3 Demir Kapija Gorge 359 Despotovac 469 Devrent Valley 587 Dhërmi 55 Diakofto 256 Didyma 559 Dihovo 356-7 Dilofo 269 Dimitsana 259 disabilities, travellers with 619 Albania 66 Bosnia & Hercegovina 110 Bulgaria 168 Croatia 231 Greece 320 Macedonia 364 Romania 454 Turkey 604 discount cards 613 diving 612 Croatia 189, 192, 195, 217, 220, 229 Montenegro 379 Turkey 558, 563, 600 Dobrota 372 Dodecanese 291-8 Dogtooth 315 Dracula 412, 447-8 Dragačevo Trumpet Assembly (Guča) 15, 24, 476, 15 driving, see car travel driving licences 625 Drvengrad 479 Drymades 55 Dubrovnik 13, 218-24, 220-1, 13 accommodation 221-2 activities 220-1 drinking 223 entertainment 223 festivals & events 221
647 food 222-3 history 218 information 223 sights 218-20 tours 221 travel to/from 223-4 travel within 224 Durrës 50-1 duty-free 611 E Eceabat 546-8 Edirne 543-4 Efes, see Ephesus El Greco 315 electricity 614 Elies 262 Elytis, Odysseus 314 embassies & consulates 614, see also emergencies 611 Emona 155 employment 620 Ephesus 556-8, 557 Epidavros 259 Eurail 628 events, see festivals & events EXIT Festival (Novi Sad) 23, 472 F ferries 19, 622, 624 festivals & events 22-4, see also film festivals Adventure Race (Herceg Novi) 370 Art-Athina (Athens) 244 Athens Biennial (Athens) 244 Dragačevo Trumpet Assembly (Guča) 15, 24, 476, 15 EXIT Festival (Novi Sad) 23, 472 Hartera (Rijeka) 197 Hellenic Festival (Athens) 244 Music Biennale Zagreb 180 Ohrid Summer Festival 352 Patras Carnival 255 ReMap (Athens) 244 Sani Jazz Festival (Kassandra) 267 Fethiye 564-6 Filoti 277 film see cinema film festivals Sarajevo Film Festival 24, 78 Tirana International Film Festival 42 Fira 280 firewater, see brandy fishing 359 Fiskardo 309 food 21, 614, see also individual locations fortresses, see castles, fortresses & palaces Frikes 310 From Russia with Love 531 Fruška Gora 475 G Gadimë Cave 329 Galičnik 349 galleries, see museums & galleries Gallipoli Peninsula 546 gay & lesbian travellers 614-15 Albania 65 Bosnia & Hercegovina 110 Bulgaria 167 Croatia 184, 230 Greece 301, 318 Montenegro 392 Romania 452 Slovenia 521-2 Turkey 601 Gefyra 260 Gelibolu 546 George II of Greece 313 Gerolimenas 261 Gjirokastra 59-60 Golden Sands 154 Göreme 585-7 Grand Bazaar (İstanbul) 530 Greece 235-324, 237 accommodation 235, 317-18 budget 236 climate 235 culture 314-15 drinking 236, 316-17 embassies & consulates 318 environment 315-16 food 235, 236, 316-17 highlights 237 history 312-14 itineraries 236 money 236, 319 opening hours 318 public holidays 319 resources 236 telephones 319 tourist information 320 travel to/from 236, 320-1 travel with 322-4 visas 320 Greek (language) 634-5 Gythio 260-1 H Habsburgs, the 518-19 Hagia Sophia (İstanbul) 531 Halki 278 Halkidiki 267 hamams (Turkey) 538 Hania 287-8 Hatay 579-80 health 615 Heraclea Lyncestis 356 Herăstrău Park 404 Herceg Novi 370-2 Hercegovina 85-96 hiking 612 Albania 48, 53, 65 Bosnia & Hercegovina 110 Bulgaria 126, 136, 141, 166 Croatia 195, 230 Greece 262, 269 Montenegro 382, 383, 386, 388 Romania 409 Serbia 409, 479, 482 Slovenia 500, 504, 506, 507 Turkey 565, 585, 599 Himara 55-6 Hippocrates 295 hire cars 625 history, see, WWI, WWII hitching 626 holidays, see public holidays Homer 280, 312, 314, 549 Hora Sfakion 290 horse riding (Turkey) 585 hostels 611 hot-air ballooning (Turkey) 584 Humor 437 Hvar Island 212-15, 6 Hydra 270-1 I Iaşi 432-5, 434 Ieud 431-2 Igoumenitsa 269 Ihlara Valley 589 Iliad 312, 549 immigration 621 insurance 616, 626 internet access 616 internet resources 19, see also InterRail 629 Ioannina 268-9 Ionian Islands 305-12 Ios 279-80, 279 Iraklio 284-6 İstanbul 527-43, 530, 532-3, 536-7, 2, 11 accommodation 536-9 drinking 541-2 entertainment 541-2 food 539-41 INDEX D-I
648 INDEX I-M İstanbul continued highlights 10 history 527 itineraries 527 safety 543 sights 527-35 tourist information 542 tours 535-6 travel to/from 542 travel within 542, 542-3 Istria 188-96 Ithaki 310 itineraries 25-9, see also individual countries İzmir 552-3 J Jahorina 84-5 Jajce 100-1 Jal 56 Julian Alps 499-509 K Kahta 590 Kalavryta 256 Kaleiçi, see Antalya Kalkan 567-8 Kapadokya, see Cappadocia Karadut 590 Kardamyli 262 Karpathos 294-5 Kaş 568-70, 570-1 Kassandra Peninsula 267 Kassiopi 307 Kastraki 263 Kavadarci 358-9 kayaking 613 Bosnia & Hercegovina 105 Croatia 220-1, 230 Montenegro 371, 382 Turkey 600 Slovenia 504, 507, 508 Kayseri 588-9 Kazanlâk 137-9 Kazantzakis, Nikos 314 Kefallonia 309-10 Kemal, Yaşar 596 Kerkyra, see Corfu Kioni 310 Kiten 160, 17 Kızkalesi 578-9 Knights of St John 293, 296 Knossos 286 000 Map pages 000 Photo pages Kobarid 508-9 Kolašin 386-7 Koliba 85 Konya 582-3 Kopaonik 478 Koper 511-12 Koprivshtitsa 137 Köprülü Kanyon 576 Korčula Island 215, 14 Kos 295-7 Kosovo 325-36, 327 accommodation 325, 335 arts 334-5 budget 326 business hours 335 climate 325 drinking 326 embassies 335 environment 335 exchange rates 326 food 325, 326, 335 highlights 327 history 333-4 internet resources 326 itineraries 326 language 630 media 334 money 326, 335 people 334 planning 325-6 postal services 335 public holidays 335-6 safety 336 telephone services 336 travel to/from 326, 336 travel within 336 visas 336 Kotor 372-5, 374 Kozjak Stream Waterfalls 508 Kranjska Gora 506-7 Kravice Waterfalls 95 Krk Island 200-1 Kruja 49-50 Krupa na Vrbasu 103 Ksamil 58 Kuşadası 558-9 Kythira 311 L Laganas Bay 311 Lake Bled 500-4, 502 Lake Bohinj 504-6 Lake Koman 49 Lake Matka 348 Lake Pamvotida 268 Lake Tikveš 359 Lakones 308 Lakonian Mani 261 landmines 617-18 Lasithi Plateau 290-1 Lastva 372 Le Corbusier 302 Lefkada 308 Lefkada Town 308 Leonidio 259 lesbian travellers, see gay & lesbian travellers Lesvos 301-3 Levski, Vasil 163 Limnionas 311 Lindos 294 Lipica 512 literature 611 Albania 63 Bosnia & Hercegovina 108-9 Croatia 226-7 Greece 314-5 Romania 449-50 Serbia 481 Slovenia 519 Turkey 596-7 Litohoro 268 Ljubljana 487-99, 490-1 accommodation 493-4 drinking 495-6 entertainment 496-7 festivals & events 493 food 494-5 history 487-8 information 497-8 itineraries 488 sights 488-9, 493 tours 493 travel to/from 498, 499 travel within 498-9 Lošinj 201 Louha 311 Lousios Gorge 259 Loutro 290 Lukomir 85 Lycian Way 565, 599 M Macedonia 337-66, 339 accommodation 337, 363 activities 363 arts 362 budget 338 business hours 363 climate 337 drinking 338, 363 economy 361 embassies 363-4 environment 362-3 exchange rates 338
food 337, 338, 363, 364 highlights 339 history 360-1 internet resources 338 itineraries 338 money 338, 364 people 361-2 planning 337-8 politics 361 postal services 364 public holidays 364 safety 364 telephone services 364 tourist information 364 travel to/from 338, 364-5 travel within 365-6 visas 364 Macedonian (language) 635-7 Madara 145 Madara National Historical and Archaeological Reserve 145 Malatya 590 Malia 287 Mamaia 445-6 Mamma Mia 304 Mani, the 261-2 Manolates 299 maps 611 Maramureş 427-32, 429 Marathonisi islet 260 Mardin 591-2 Maribor 517 markets Čaršija (Prilep) 357 Cheese Market (Peja) 332 Dolac Market (Zagreb) 173 Gjirokastra Bazaar 59 Grand Bazaar (İstanbul) 530 Kruja Bazaar 50 Monastiraki Flea Market. (Athens) 251 Odos 1866 (Iraklio) 285 Stara Čaršija (Bitola) 355 Tirana 44 Zagreb 185 Marmaris 563-4 Martin Brod 104 Matisse, Henri 302 Matka 348 Maydos 546-8 measures 611 Međed 387 Mediterranean Coast (Turkey) 564-80 Međugorje 94-5 Megalo Papingo 269 Mehmet the Conqueror 527, 530 Melnik 127-9 Menalon Mountains 259 Messinian Mani 261-2 Mesta 300 Metaxas 313 Meteora 12, 263-4, 13 meyhanes 540 Mikro Papingo 269 Miletus 559 Milišići 85 Miro, Joan 302 Mithymna 302-3 Mljet Island 216-18 mobile phones 618 Moisei 432 Moldavia 432-9 Moldoviţa 438 Molyvos 302 monasteries 21 Bachkovo Monastery 136 Bârsana Monastery 431 Basarbovo Rock Monastery 148 Cetinje Monastery 381 Dobrun Monastery 97 Dominican Monastery. (Dubrovnik) 219 Franciscan Monastery. (Dubrovnik) 218-19 Franciscan Monastery. (Hvar Town) 212 Golia Monastery 432 Gračanica Monastery 329 Humor Monastery 437 Ivanovo Rock Monastery 148 Manasija Monastery 469 Megalou Meteorou (Meteora) 263 Minorite Monastery 513 Moldoviţa Monastery 438 Monastery of St John the New (Suceava) 435 Monastery of St John the Theologian (Patmos) 297 Monastery of Sveti Nikola 359 Morača Monastery 386 Novo Hopovo Monastery 475 Ostrog Monastery 385-6 Patriachate of Peć 332 Piva Monastery 389 Pološki Monastery 359 Rila Monastery 127 Savina Monastery 370 Sinan Pasha Mosque (Prizren) 333 Snagov Monastery 412 Sopoćani Monastery 477 St George Monastery 477 Studenica Monastery 478 Suceviţa Monastery 438-9 Sveta Bogoroditsa Monastery 142 Sveti Jovan Bigorski. Monastery 348-9 Sveti Naum Monastery 354 Sveti Nikolai Monastery 142 Sveti Pantelejmon Monastery 341 Treskavec Monastery 357-8 Varlaam (Meteora) 263 Visoki Dečani Monastery 332 Voroneţ Monastery 437-8 Zrze Monastery 358 Monemvasia 260 money 18, 19, 613-14, 616-17, see also Monodendri 269 Montenegro 367-94, 369 accommodation 367, 392 budget 368 business hours 392 climate 367 drinking 368 economy 389-90 embassies 392 exchange rates 368 food 367, 368, 391, 392 highlights 369 history 390-1 internet resources 368 itineraries 368 language 368, 630 money 368, 392 people 391 planning 367-8 politics 389-90 public holidays 393 telephone services 393 travel to/from 368, 393-4 travel within 394 Morača Canyon 386 mosques Aya Sofya (İstanbul) 531 Bajrakli Mosque (Belgrade) 461 Blue Mosque (İstanbul) 527 Carshi Mosque (Pristina) 328 Čaršija Mosque (Stolac) 95 Dzhumaya Mosque (Plovdiv) 131 Et hem Bey Mosque (Tirana) 39-40 Fethija Mosque (Bihać) 104 Gazi-Husrevbey Mosque. (Sarajevo) 73 Haji Alibey Mosque (Travnik) 99 Isak Mosque (Bitola) 355 Jashar Pasha Mosque (Pristina) 328 Karađozbeg Mosque (Mostar) 87 Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque (Mostar) 87 Many Coloured Mosque. (Travnik) 99 Mosque of Süleyman (Rhodes) 293 Muradi Mosque (Vlora) 54 Mustafa Paša Mosque (Skopje) 341 Red Mosque (Berat) 52 649 INDEX M
650 INDEX M-O mosques continued Roznamedži Ibrahimefendi Mosque (Mostar) 87 Selimiye Camii (Edirne) 544 Süleymaniye Mosque. (İstanbul) 531 Sultan Mehmet Fatih Mosque (Pristina) 328 Sultan Murat Mosque (Skopje) 341 Tombul Mosque (Shumen) 144 Yahdar-Kadi Mosque (Bitola) 355 Yeni Mosque (Bitola) 355 Mostar 17, 86-94, 88-9, 17 accommodation 90-2 drinking 92-3 entertainment 93 food 92 history 86 information 93-4 shopping 93 sights 86-7 tours 87, 90 travel to/from 93, 94 travel within 94 motorcycle travel 622, 625-6 movies, see cinema Mt Athos 267 Mt Erciyes 583 Mt Ida 286 Mt Kynthos 274 Mt Lovćen 372 Mt Nemrut National Park 590 Mt Olympus 267-8 Mt Psiloritis 286 Mt Tâmpa 413 Mt Triglav 16, 505, 16 Mt Vodno 341 museums & galleries Acropolis Museum (Athens) 241 Archaeological Museum (Pula) 189 Art Pavilion (Zagreb) 179 Batana House (Rovinj) 192 Beekeeping Museum. (Radovljica) 501 Benaki Museum (Athens) 242 Byzantine & Christian Museum (Athens) 243 Central Eco-Tourism Museum of the Danube Delta (Tulcea) 441 City Museum (Zagreb) 179 Croatian Museum of Naïve Art (Zagreb) 178 Dražen Petrović Memorial Museum (Zagreb) 180 Ethnographic Museum (Split) 205 000 Map pages 000 Photo pages Galerija Klovićevi Dvori (Zagreb) 179 Gallery of Fine Arts (Split) 207 Gallery of Modern Art (Zagreb) 179-80 Göreme Open-Air Museum 585 Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum (Bucharest) 401 Homeland War Museum. (Dubrovnik) 219 İstanbul Archaeology Museums 531 Marco Polo Museum (Korčula Island) 215 Maritime & History Museum (Rijeka) 197 Meštrović Gallery (Split) 207 Mevlâna Museum (Konya) 582 Museum Mimara (Zagreb) 179 Museum of Anatolian Civilisations (Ankara) 580 Museum of Ancient Glass. (Zadar) 202 Museum of Beekeeping & Wine Cellar (Sremski Karlovci) 475 Museum of Broken Relationships (Zagreb) 173 Museum of Contemporary Art (Zagreb) 180 National Archaeological Museum (Athens) 242 Onufri Museum (Berat) 52 Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters (Zagreb) 179 Svrzo House (Sarajevo) 73 Town Museum (Korčula Island) 215 Town Museum (Split) 205 Town Museum (Trogir) 212 Tusculum Museum (Solin) 205 War Photo Limited (Dubrovnik) 218 music Albania 63 Bosnia & Hercegovina 109 Bulgaria 163-4 Croatia 227 Greece 315 Macedonia 362 Romania 450 Serbia 481-2 Slovenia 520 Turkey 397 Mustafa Kemal Atatürk 594 Mustafapaşa 588 Mycenae 259 Mykonos 271-5, 272, 21 Mystras 260 Mytikas 268 Mytilini 301-2 N Nafplio 257-9 national parks & reserves Biogradska Gora National Park 387 Durmitor National Park 387-9 Galičica National Park 354 Lake Skadar National Park 381-3 Llogaraja Pass National Park 54 Lovćen National Park 380 Mavrovo National Parks 348-9 Mljet National Park 217 Mt Dajti National Park 46 Mt Nemrut National Park 590 National Marine Park of. Alonnisos 304 National Marine Park of. Zakynthos 311 Pelister National Park 356-7 Plitvice Lakes National Park 188 Sutjeska National Park 97 Una National Park 104 Naxos 276-8, 277 Nemrut Dağı 590-608 Nesebâr 155-6 newspapers 611 nightlife 21 Niš 475-7 Northeastern Aegean Islands 298-303 Novi Pazar 477-8 Novi Sad 472-4 Nydri 308 O Odyssey 310, 312 Ohrid 14, 349-53, 350, 15 Oia 281 oil wrestling (Turkey) 544 Old Towns 20 Belgrade 461 Bucharest 400-1 Budva 376 Dubrovnik 218-19 Herceg Novi 370 Novi Pazar 477 Poreč 194 Rovinj 192 Sarajevo 72-3 Trebinje 96 Trogir 211 Ulcinj 379 Zadar 202 Ölüdeniz 566-7 Olymbos 295 Olympia 262 Olympos 571-2 Omalos 289 Opatija 199-200 opening hours see business hours Oradea 426-7 Orebić 216
Our-Lady-of-the-Rock Island 372 ouzo 316 P packing tips 19 Pakleni Islands 213 palaces, see castles, fortresses & palaces Paleohora 289 Paleokastritsa 308 Pamuk, Orhan 596 Pamukkale 558 Papandreou, George 313 paragliding 376, 566 Parikia 275 Paros 275-6, 275 Parthenis, Konstantinos 315 Parthenon (Athens) 241, 10 Paşabağı 587 passports 621 Patara 567 Patitiri 305 Patmos 297-8 Patra 255-6 Paxi 308 Peja 331-3 Pelekas Beach 308 Pelion Peninsula 263 Peloponnese 255-62 people, see Perast 372 Pergamum 551-2 Perge 576 Pericles 240, 312 Petrovac 378 Phaestos 286-7 Philip II of Macedon 241 phonecards 619 photography 617 Picasso, Pablo 302 Pigadia 295 Pindar 314 Pindos Mountains 268 Piraeus 253-5, 254 Piran 512-16, 514-15 Piva Canyon 389 planning 18-19, see also individual countries basics 18-19 budgeting 18 calendar of events 22-4 countries 30-3 highlights 10-17 itineraries 25-9 travel seasons 22-4 travel themes 20-1 Plitvice Lakes 104 Plovdiv 130-5, 132 Počitelj 95 Podgorica 383-5, 384-5 Poreč 194-6 Poros 270 Portorož 516 postal services 617, see also Postojna 509-10 Prčanj 372 Predjama 510 Priene 559 Prilep 357 Primorsko 160 Pristina 13, 328-31, 330, 13 Prizren 333 Pržno 377-8 Psyhro 291 Ptuj 517-18 public holidays 615, see also public transport 627 Pula 188-91 Punta Corrente Forest Park 192 Pyrgi 300 Pythagorio 299 R Radovljica 501 Rethymno 287 Rhodes 292-4, 292 Rijeka 196-9 Rijeka Crnojevića 382 Rila Monastery 126-7 Risan 372 road rules 626 rock climbing 230, 505 Romania 395-456, 397 accommodation 395, 451-2 arts 449 budget 396 business hours 452 climate 395 customs regulations 452 drinking 396, 451 embassies 452 environment 450 exchange rates 396 food 395, 396, 450-1, 452 highlights 397 history 447-9 internet resources 396 itineraries 396 money 396, 452-3 people 449 planning 395-6 politics 447, 448-9 postal services 453 public holidays 453 telephone services 453-4 tourist information 454 travel to/from 396, 454-5 travel within 455-6 visas 454 Romanian (language) 637-8 Rose 373 Rovinj 191-4 Rozavlea 431 Rt Kamenjak 189 ruins, see archaeological sites & ruins Ruse 145-8, 146 Rusenski Lom Nature Park 148-9 S Safranbolu 582 safety 617-18 sailing 613 Samaria Gorge 288-9 Samaris, Antonis 314 Samos 298-9, 298 Şanlıurfa 590, 591 Santorini 280-3, 281 Săpânţa 430 Sappho 301, 314 Sarajevo 72-84, 74, 76 accommodation 78-9 activities 72-7 drinking 80-1 entertainment 81-2 festivals & events 78 food 79-80 history 72 information 82 itineraries 72 shopping 82 sights 72-7 tours 77-8 travel to/from 82, 83 travel within 82 Saranda 56-8 Šargan 8 railway 479 Saronic Gulf Islands 269-71 Saxon Triangle 417 Seferis, George 314 Selçuk 555-6 senior travellers 614 Serbia 457-84, 459 accommodation 457, 482 activities 482 arts 481-2 budget 458 business hours 482-3 climate 457 drinking 458, 482 embassies 483 environment 482 651 INDEX O-S
652 INDEX S-T Serbia continued exchange rates 458 food 457, 458, 482, 483 highlights 459 history 480-1 internet resources 458 itineraries 458 money 458, 483 people 481 planning 457-8 politics 480, 481 postal services 483 public holidays 483 safety 483 telephone services 483 tourist information 483 travel to/from 458, 484 travel within 484 visas 484 Serbian (language) 633-4 Sfântu Gheorghe 443-4 Sgombou 307 Shipka Pass 138 Shkodra 46-8 Shumen 144-5 Sibiu 418-20 Side 576-7 Sighetu Marmaţiei 428, 430 Sighişoara 416-18 Sinaia 409-12 Sithonian Peninsula 267 Sitia 291 Skala Eresou 301, 303 Skanderbeg 50 Skiathos 303-4 skiing 613 Bosnia & Hercegovina 84, 85, 109 Bulgaria 126, 129 Macedonia 349 Montenegro 386, 388 Romania 409 Serbia 479 Slovenia 504, 506, 507 Turkey 545, 600 Škocjan Caves 510-11 Skopelos 304-5 Skopje 339-48, 342-3 accommodation 341-3 drinking 345 entertainment 345-6 festivals & events 341 food 343-5 information 347 itineraries 340 shopping 346-7 000 Map pages 000 Photo pages sights 340-1 travel to/from 346, 347 travel within 348 Slovene (language) 638-9 Slovenia 485, 487 accommodation 485, 520-1 arts 519-20 budget 486 business hours 521 climate 485 drinking 486, 520 embassies 521 environment 520 exchange rates 486 festivals & events 521 food 485, 486, 520, 521 highlights 487 history 518-19 internet access 522 internet resources 486 itineraries 486 money 486, 522 people 519 planning 485-6 postal services 522 public holidays 522 telephone services 522 tourist information 522-3 travel to/from 486, 523 travel within 523 visas 523 Smederevo 469 Smolyan 135-6 Snagov Lake 412 Soča Valley 507-9 Sofia 116-25, 118-19 accommodation 117, 120-1 drinking 121-2 entertainment 122 food 121 information 123 shopping 123 sights 116-17 travel to/from 123-4 travel within 125 Solin 205 Sougia 290 Southern Bucovina 436-9, 437 Sozopol 158-60 Sparta 259-60 Spetses 271 Spinalonga Island 291 Split 204-11, 206-7 accommodation 208-9 activities 207-8 drinking 209-10 entertainment 209-10 festivals & events 208 food 209 history 204 information 210 sights 204-7 travel to/from 210-11 travel within 211 Sporades 303-5 Sremski Karlovci 475 St George s Island 372 Stari Most (Mostar) 86, 17 Stemnitsa 259 Stobi 359 Stolac 95-6 Stoliv 372 Štrbački Buk 104 Subotica 474 Suceava 435-6 Suceviţa 438-9 Süleyman the Magnificent 527 Sulina 442-3 surfing, see windsurfing Sveti Konstantin 154 Sveti Stefan 377-8 Symi 295 synagogues Dubrovnik 219 Oradea 426-7 Sighetu Marmaţiei 428 Subotica 474 T Taÿgetos Mountains 260, 261 telephone services 618-19, see also television 611 Termessos 576 Terraneo Festival 24 Thessaloniki 264-7, 265 Theth 48 Thira, see Santorini Tikveš 358-9 time 619 Timişoara 423-6 tipping 616 Tirana 39-46, 40 accommodation 42-3 drinking 43-4 entertainment 44 festivals & events 42 food 43 information 44-5 shopping 44 sights 39-42 tours 42 travel to/from 45-6 travel within 45-6 Tivat 375-6 toilets 619
653 Topola 469 tourist information 619, see also tours 627 Tragaea 277 train travel 18, 622, 627-9 Transylvania 16, 408-23, 410-11 travel money cards 617 travel seasons 18 travel to/from Southeastern Europe 19, 621-2 travel within Southeastern Europe 622-9 travellers cheques 616 Travnik 99-100 Trebinje 96-7 trekking, see hiking Treska Canyon 348 Trogir 211-12 Troy 549 Trpejca 354 Truva 549 Tsarevo 160 Tulcea 440-2 Turkey 525-608, 528-9 accommodation 525, 599 activities 599-600 budget 600 business hours 600 climate 525 culture 596-7 customs regulations 600 drinking 526, 598 embassies 600 employment 605 environment 597-8 food 525, 526, 598, 601 health 601 highlights 528-9 history 593-5 internet access 601 itineraries 526 money 526, 601-2 population 595 public holidays 602 resources 526 safety 603 telephones 603 tourist information 603 travel to/from 526, 605 travel within 607-8 visas 604 volunteering 604 Turkish (language) 639-41 Tzermiado 291 U Uçhisar 587 Ulcinj 379-80 Umoljani 85 Ürgüp 587-8 V vacations, see public holidays Vadu Izei 431 Valbonë 48 Valea Izei 430-2 Vama Veche 446-7 Van 592-3 Varna 149-53, 150-1 Vasiliki 308 Vasilikos Peninsula 311 Vataša 359 Vathy 298-9, 310 vegetarian travellers Albania 64 Croatia 229 Kosovo 335 Montenegro 391 Serbia 482 Veliko Târnovo 139-44, 140 Venizelos, Prime Minister. Eleftherios 313 Verudela Peninsula 189 Vidin 161 Vikos Gorge 269 Vintgar Gorge 500 Virpazar 382 visas 19, 619-20 Viscri 417 Višegrad 97-8 Visoko 98-9 Vitosha Nature Park 126 Vlora 54-5 Vojvodina 471-4 Volosko 200 Voroneţ 437-8 Voulismeni Lake 291 Vourliotes 299 Vozarci 359 Vrbas Canyons 103 Vuno 56 Vyros Gorge 262 W walking, see hiking waterskiing (Bulgaria) 155 weather, see climate websites, see internet resources weights 611 Western Union 617 white water rafting 220-1, 230 windsurfing 230, 308, 600 wine Albania 64 Bosnia & Hercegovina 95 Bulgaria 114, 165-6 Croatia 228 Greece 257, 282, 316-17 Kosovo 326 Macedonia 338 Montenegro 368 Romania 451 Slovenia 520 women travellers 620 Albania 66 Montenegro 393 Turkey 604 work 620 WWI 546 Bosnia & Hercegovina 106 Bulgaria 163 Romania 448 Slovenia 519 WWII Bosnia & Hercegovina 106 Bulgaria 163 Romania 448 Slovenia 519 Y yachting 230 Yugoslavia 225, 391 Z Žabljak 387 Zadar 202-4 Zagorohoria 269 Zagreb 173, 176-88, 176-7 accommodation 181-2 drinking 183-4 entertainment 184-5 festivals & events 180-1 food 182-3 gay & lesbian travellers 184 history 173 information 185-6 itineraries 179 shopping 185 sights 173, 178-80 tours 180 travel to/from 186, 187 travel within 186, 188 Zakros 287 Zakynthos 310-12 Zakynthos Town 311 Želenkovac 104 Zelve Valley 587 Zemun 471 Zlatibor 478-80 Zlatni Rt 192 Zorba the Greek 315 INDEX T-Z
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