Samurai City Trail
Matsumoto originated as a strategically important castle-town and traces of its dramatic military history can be found throughout the city. This self-guided tour is great for those interested in the city s history and includes parts of the old villages where commoners lived as well as the former sites of the castle. We suggest you combine this walk with a trip to the local sake brewery and Ukiyo-e Museum, or the Yabuhara Narai section of the Nakasendo Trail. These outings can be found on our half-day trips poster. On Sundays, do attend the Shamisen performance at 13:30 or 15:00. Finish the day with Matsumoto s traditional delicacy; horse sashimi, and a visit to the nearby Onsen. Matsumoto Backpackers wishes you a pleasant day. If you have any questions, please ask one of our staff members. The Jorinji temple-shrine complex also called the Fox Shrine is easy to overlook but nonetheless interesting. While many of the buildings are relatively new, the shrine dates back to the 16 th century. The wooden front gate built in the late 17 th century is a silent reminder of this. The bell tower was constructed in 1845. The temple features a pleasing Japanese garden and the colourful shrine beside it has a small set of torii archways. If you happen to pass onto Isemachi Street on the hour after visiting the complex, stop for a few minutes in front of the community centre to appreciate the Karakuri Clock s musical display. One of the few colourful shrines in Matsumoto City (the others being predominantly black and brown), Fukashi Shrine is also the city s oldest shrine it was established in the 14 th century. The shrine is significant for two main reasons. First of all, it is the premier location of Matsumoto s biggest new year s festival, where citizens give thanks for the old year and wish for prosperity in the new. Secondly, the shrine is important to students as they come here to pray for good results in upcoming examinations. If you are lucky, you may see the shrine s priest offering blessings to visitors.
The Well of Genchi, located here at the far end of Takasago Street, has been a local source of water for generations, and remains in use today. Although water was readily available from the river in old Matsumoto, many citizens chose to draw water from this well instead as the water was reputedly of exceptional quality (and was therefore also used to make sake). As a result of the well s reputation, the local lord had a guard posted at the well permanently to ensure its quality, making it the only well in Japan that was officially guarded. There are many other wells in Matsumoto City look for them during the rest of your walk and try the water quality for yourself! Takasago Street is often referred to in Matsumoto as the Ningyo Doll Street as there are several shops here selling these quintessentially Japanese statues. Ningyo dolls came into fashion during the Edo Period as Japan opened up to international trade. Doll sets were often presented as expensive gifts or as displays of wealth and prestige. Dollmakers were subject to strict government regulations on height and materials. Ningyo dolls sold on Takasago street today come in a variety of forms and continue to be made in a traditional manner out of highquality materials including straw, wood, human or silk hair, and fine textiles. Naka- (centre of middle) Machi (town) was as the name suggests an important street in the centre of Edo-period Matsumoto. As the street was historically a merchant quarter, the beautiful black-andwhite buildings many of which are well over a hundred years old are made out of thick mud to ensure that valuable wares inside were protected from fire. Note also the staggered street pattern, intended to confuse enemies. The street remains retail-oriented today and shops sell traditional lacquerware, kimonos, and handcrafts. There are also various eateries serving traditional and contemporary dishes. On Sundays and national holidays, it is possible to attend a Shamisen (a Japanese string instrument) performance for 700 at 13:30 and 15:00.
Nawate Street, now a quaint, historic, shop-lined street, was once a quiet lane in the shadow of the castle s outermost defences. When the castle walls were demolished in the late 19 th century, the street transformed into its current appearance. Little evidence of its earlier history remains, except for the S-shape in the road at the street s western end (at the Sensai Bridge). This was the site of the castle s most important gate the Ote Gate. Nawate Street is also called the Frog Street as frog-themed souvenirs are sold throughout and at the street s western end there is a statue of frogs in samurai armour. Moreover, there is Yohashira shrine, where a celebration in honour of Yebisu the business god is held every 17 th and 18 th November. If you are lucky, you may also witness a traditional Japanese wedding. Just beside the shrine there is a French-style restaurant called Sweet, which has been around since the early 20 th century and which is one of our recommendations for breakfast. Daimyocho Street was, during the Edo period, the main street of the Sannomaru, or samurai residential district. It was a part of the castle and ordinary townsfolk were not allowed here without a permit. Note the symbols on the lamps lining the street these are the symbols of the clans which held Matsumoto castle over the years (Ishikawa, Ogasawara, Tada, Matsudaira, Hotta, and Mizuno). While not a remnant of the Edo Period, the architecturally fascinating bookstore on this street is nonetheless intriguing. When the castle keep was saved from certain destruction by Matsumoto s citizens, it was restored in the early 20 th century. Many tourists coming to see the castle were sad to find it inaccessible. The owner of this bookstore then decided to transform the building into a 1:20 scale model of Matsumoto Castle s keep, and it has retained this look ever since.
Although Matsumoto s ninomaru or outer citadel is now a park, it was formerly one of the castle s most important areas. In Ninomaru Palace and Kosanji Palace, the lord lived, received guests, and conducted political negotiations. There were also warehouses for rice and gunpowder, and a traditional tea garden. The ninomaru was accessible via a number of gates. The East Gate or Taikomon was restored using traditional materials in 1999. Originally the gate was paired with a drum tower which was used to relay messages to samurai and townspeople. There is a massive, imposing stone the Genba Ishi built into the gate. Legend has it that when builders complained the stone was immovable, a local samurai cut down one of the workers. The rest then promptly agreed the stone was not so immovable after all. There are plans to restore additional sections of the outer citadel. OPTIONAL Although almost all of Matsumoto castle s outer defences were destroyed at the close of the Edo period, this small section of the outermost moat remains. Currently a shallow koi-populated pond and park, it was once one of the main entryways of the sannomaru, or samurai residential district. The park is especially beautiful in autumn when leaves turn colours, and in spring when the cherry trees blossom. OPTIONAL Over time, the vast majority of Matsumoto s Edo period buildings were either demolished on purpose to make way for modernity, or were destroyed by accident in fires. The Takahashi family residence is one of the very few remaining original samurai residences in Matsumoto. The house remained occupied by the family until about a decade ago, when it was donated to the city. The house was then extensively restored and now features four rooms, a kitchen, and a garden with a well. The house also retains its old exterior including its traditional stone-covered roof. The houses is now taken care of by the neighbours, and can be visited for free during week-ends. Although the house is small and requires some imagination, it is nonetheless a fascinating relic of the past and warrants a visit.
The two shrines standing here have long been intimately linked to Matsumoto castle. A shrine was originally erected here by the Lord of Toda when he visited Matsumoto in the 17th century. In 1914, the complex was enlarged when Wakamiya Hachiman shrine was relocated here from another part of the city. The two shrines, as a complex, were then renamed Matsumoto Shrine in 1953. The shrine features a well and a large keyaki tree, which is taken care of by local parishioners. Matsumoto s castle keep was constructed in 1594, although the site was first fortified nearly a hundred years before. Following the destruction of most of the castle in the late 19th century, Matsumoto citizens saved the keep. It was designated a national treasure in 1936 and was subsequently restored using traditional and modern materials to ensure longevity. The keep remains the oldest surviving in Japan. There are two main remaining buildings in the honmaru (inner citadel). The first is the Kuro- (black) mon (gate). It was restored in 1989. It is still possible to see some of the original roof tiles marked with clan symbols on this gate. Then there is the keep itself, which consists of the Inui Keep, the Watari Tower, the Tatsumitsuke Tower, and the Tsukimi Tower. Matsumoto Castle is also one of only two castles in Japan to have a moon-viewing wing. Built in 1633, this tower is markedly different in style from the rest of the castle as it was not built to withstand assault but for comfort. Entry to the castle costs 610 and this ticket includes the museum.