Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET PAGE 2 PLAN YOUR TRIP Go further with Lonely Planet 1 YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Book your travels Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions Find a flight to help you put together your perfect trip Find the right flight through our online booking service. 2 Looking for ideas and advice on a specific destination? Want to share your experiences with the most active travel community? Then head to Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet s forum, where you ll find new posts every 12 seconds. Reserve a room Welcome to Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi.. Map... 12 Top Experiences... Need to Know... If You Like... Month by Month... Itineraries... Countries at a Glance... Visit the Lonely Planet website to book author-reviewed and recommended accommodation for any price range. welcome to Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi 2 4 6 12 14 16 19 26 Book activities Discover and book amazing experiences online for destinations around the globe. Wildlife 8 Lower Zambezi National Park (Zambia) lonelyplanet.com/destinations Waterfalls 4 Landscapes 3 JOHN WARBURTON-LEE / GETTY IMAGES z 19 One of the region s largest spectacles, this three-day music festival features live acts from around Africa and from the UK. It s held in various places on the lake shore, with proceeds benefitting charity. See www.lakeof stars.org. 4 Talk to locals With just a few words in the local language you can make a real connection when you travel. Our superb range of phrasebooks and language apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter where you re going. IAN CUMMING / GETTY IMAGES Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. ANTONI EMCHOWICZ / GETTY IMAGES Lake of Stars International Music Festival (Malawi) lonelyplanet.com/thorntree Zambia s wildlife-àlled plains are legenthundering Victoria Falls is one of the condary, from South Luangwa National Park tinent s iconic images, the Seventh Natural in thesouth southeastluangwa to Kafue National Park in Wonder of the World and a Unesco World the west. With their remoteness, species Site. Whether you raft the rapids National Park (Zambia) Heritage diversity and Àne network of camps, the or stand on the spray-misted sidelines, the Floating down one of Africa s great rivers country s On a walkingareas safari,o stroll through the bush protected er outstandwildness, power and magniàcence of the Zimbabwe s sandy banks on one side, single Àle with for a riáthose e-carrying scout ing wildlife watching willing to in the falls are unforgettable. Zambia s Lower Zambezi National Park (p63) meetlead. engine sounds breakthere the music the No challenge of getting and of the on the other can be a mesmerising experi- around. bush, and nomozambique barriers standand between you and While Malawi ence. It s a front-row seat to a menagerie: pods aren tthe wildlife. Big Listen to animals scurrying typically Five destinations, theyin thefrom the mist-covered peaks of Malawi s of hippos surface with warning calls, crocodiles do o underbrush as wildlife you focus on the little things, er rewarding watching, espescuttle through grass, elephants slosh their as traditionalgorongosa medicinal uses of local Mt Mulanje to the azure sea surroundciallysuch Mozambique s National ing Mozambique s Bazaruto and Quirimway between islands, the odd impala churns Park plants tracking spoor. Pause in (whichoris also aanimal primedung birding desbas Archipelagos, and the tracts of bush through the water Áeeing a predator and Àerce tination) the shade of an acacia tree, gaze over the wide and Malawi s Liwonde National tigeràsh tempt anglers. Whether going by canoe Àlled with munching grazers and im- bordering the Zambezi River in southern Park,plains with its hippos and crocs. Zambia, the diverse landscapes of these or motorised boat, you ll be hypnotised by the merse yourself in the magniàcent wildness that countries will captivate you at every turn. languidly Áowing river and pastel-hued sunsets. is South Luangwa National Park (p52). 3 3 Itineraries Talk to other travellers shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebooks November November marks the end of the dry season and the start of the hottest weather before the rains arrive. With the start of the rains come muddy roads, as well as calving season for many animals. ZAMBIA Kafue National Park # LUSAKA _ # Lower Zambezi Valley December # # Livingstone Siavonga # Lake Kariba NAMIBIA 4 MOZAMBIQUE # Monze Choma # ZIMBABWE Victoria Falls Along the coast, changing winds have brought calmer seas. Whale shark sightings tend to be particularly good now, during the height of Check out our full range of guides Travelling somewhere somewhe ere else? Staying Stay ying longer in a particular yin particula place? Check out our full range of guides, written writtten and researched by b expert authors to give e you an amazing travel t experience. Two Weeks Wildlife & Waterfalls This itinerary takes in several of the region s highlights: wildlife, the majestic Victoria Falls and Lake Kariba, one of Africa s largest artificial lakes. Start in Lusaka, Zambia s gateway and an amenable place to get acquainted with local life. Once settled, head down to Siavonga on sparkling, scenic Lake Kariba and relax on a boat cruise. From Siavonga, retrace your steps northwest towards Kafue junction, and then head southwest to the small town of Monze, with its attractive nearby campsite. The next stop is the historic town of Livingstone, gateway to thundering Victoria Falls, which have spray that can be seen from 50km away. Among the many diversions: serene canoe trips on top of the falls or rafting along the churning Zambezi down below. Once you have had a chance to appreciate the falls magnificence, retrace your steps to the busy market town of Choma, and from there travel northwest to Kafue National Park, with excellent birding and abundant wildlife, especially on the grasslands of the Busanga Plains. Spend as much time here as possible before returning to Lusaka. With another week, you could include a detour to the lovely, wildlife-filled Lower Zambezi Valley. SURVIVAL 363 GUIDE VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO PAGE Health... 364 Language... 371 Index... 382 Map Legend... 398 HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP DISCOVER DISC OVER Full-colour F ll l iimages and top itineraries. POCKET POCK ET Perfect for a quick visit. shop.lonelyplanet.com 5 where an immediate assessment of your problem is made. Since reversecharge calls aren t possible in many parts of the region, contact the insurance company before setting off to confirm how best to contact them in an emergency. Health Dr Caroline Evans While Africa has an impressive selection of tropical diseases, it s more likely you ll get a bout of diarrhoea or a cold than a more exotic malady. Stay up to date with your vaccinations and take basic preventive measures, and you ll be unlikely to succumb to any of the serious health hazards. BEFORE YOU GO» Get a check-up from your dentist and your doctor if you take any regular medication or have a chronic illness, such as high blood pressure or asthma.» Organise spare contact lenses and glasses (and take your optical prescription with you).» Get a Àrst-aid and medical kit together and arrange necessary vaccinations.»c id i t i ith Recommended Vaccinations and major cities or tourist centres), consider doing a Àrst-aid course (contact the Red Cross or St John Ambulance) or attending a remote medicine Àrst-aid course, such as that oֆered by the Royal Geographical Society (www.wilderness medicaltraining.co.uk).» Carry medications in their original (labelled) containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing all medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is also a good idea.» If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to have a physician s letter documenting their medical necessity. Insurance Find out in advance whether your insurance plan will make payments directly to providers or will reimburse you The World Health Organization (www.who.int/en/) recommends that all travellers be covered for diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella and polio, as well as for hepatitis B, regardless of their destination. According to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (www.cdc.gov), the following vaccinations are recommended for the region: hepatitis A, hepatitis B, rabies and typhoid, and boosters for tetanus, diphtheria and measles. While a yellow-fever vaccination certificate is not officially required to enter any of the three countries unless you are entering from a yellowfever infected area, carrying one is advised, and is often requested. shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks The award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting magazine for people who want to see more of the world. Go online to find out more and see the latest subscription offer. lonelyplanet.com/magazine STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact Carry a medical and first aid kit, to help yourself in the case of minor illness or inju- 9 781741 797220 EBOOKS The same great content with added interactivity. Get inspired to travel Medical Checklist ISBN 978-1-74179-722-0 zambia-mozambique-malawi-2-cover.indd 2 COUNTRY COUNT COUN T TRY &R RE REG REGIONAL GIONAL GION G AL Th freedom The f d you need d to t plan the perfect trip. 52699 Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council standards. FSC promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world s forests. 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PAGE 28 ON THE ROAD YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips Zambia p31 Malawi p265 Victoria Falls p127 Mozambique p143 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Mary Fitzpatrick Michael Grosberg, Trent Holden, Kate Morgan, Nick Ray, Richard Waters
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first. Look out for these icons: Our author s top recommendation A green or sustainable option No payment required ZAMBIA............ 31 LUSAKA................. 33 EASTERN ZAMBIA........ 50 The Great East Road: From Lusaka to Chipata.. 50 Chipata.................. 51 South Luangwa National Park............52 North Luangwa National Park........... 60 SOUTHERN ZAMBIA...... 62 Chirundu................62 Lower Zambezi Valley.... 63 Lake Kariba..............67 Choma..................70 Nkanga River Conservation Area........ 71 Lochinvar National Park & Around... 71 WESTERN ZAMBIA........ 72 Kafue National Park.......73 Kaoma..................78 Mongu..................78 Liuwa Plain National Park........... 80 Senanga................. 81 Sioma & Ngonye Falls.....82 Sesheke.................82 Sioma Ngwezi National Park........... 83 THE COPPERBELT........ 83 Kabwe.................. 83 Kapiri Mposhi........... 83 Ndola.................. 84 Kitwe................... 86 Chingola.................87 Chimfunshi Wildlife Orphanage.......87 NORTHERN ZAMBIA...... 88 Mkushi................. 89 Serenje................. 89 Kasanka National Park.... 91 Bangweulu Wetlands......93 Samfya................. 94 Mutinondo Wilderness... 94 Mpika...................95 Shiwa Ng andu.......... 96 Kasama................ 98 Mbala.................. 99 Kalambo Falls.......... 100 Mpulungu.............. 100 Nsumbu National Park... 101 UNDERSTAND ZAMBIA... 103 Zambia Today...........103 History.................104 Zambian Way of Life.....107 Environment............108 SURVIVAL GUIDE........ 113 Directory A Z........... 113 Getting There & Away....120 Getting Around..........123 VICTORIA FALLS... 127 ZAMBIA................ 132 Livingstone & Around....132 ZIMBABWE............. 138 Victoria Falls............138 MOZAMBIQUE..... 143 MAPUTO............... 145 AROUND MAPUTO......162 Catembe...............162 Inhaca Island............162 Marracuene & Macaneta Beach.........164 North of Marracuene.....164 SOUTHERN MOZAMBIQUE.......... 164 Ponta d Ouro & Ponta Malongane........165 Maputo Special Reserve.. 167 Namaacha..............168 Bilene..................168 Limpopo National Park...169 Xai-Xai.................170 Quissico................ 172 Závora Beach........... 172 Lindela................. 173 Inhambane............. 173 Tofo.................... 176 Tofinho................. 178 Barra................... 178 Maxixe................. 179 Massinga...............180 Morrungulo.............180 Pomene................180 Vilankulo............... 181 Bazaruto Archipelago....186 Inhassoro...............188 CENTRAL MOZAMBIQUE.......... 188 Beira...................189 Chimoio................195 Manica.................198 Penha Longa............199 Chimanimani Mountains.. 200 Tete....................201
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road Cahora Bassa Dam & Songo................. 204 Zumbo................ 205 Sena & Mutarara....... 205 Caia................... 206 Marromeu............. 206 Quelimane............. 206 Pebane................ 209 Gilé National Reserve....210 Mocuba................210 Milange................210 Gurúè & Mt Namúli......210 Alto Molócuè............212 NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE.......... 212 Nampula...............213 Angoche................ 217 Mozambique Island (Ilha de Moçambique)....218 Nacala................ 225 Cuamba............... 226 Mandimba..............227 Lichinga................227 Lake Niassa (Lake Malawi).......... 229 Niassa Reserve..........231 Montepuez............. 233 Pemba................ 233 Quirimbas Archipelago............ 239 Macomia.............. 243 Chai.................. 243 Pangane............... 244 Mueda................ 244 Moçimboa da Praia..... 245 Palma................. 246 UNDERSTAND MOZAMBIQUE............ 247 Mozambique Today......247 History.................247 Mozambique Way of Life............. 249 Mozambique s Cuisine................ 250 The Arts................251 Mozambique s Natural Environment.....251 SURVIVAL GUIDE........ 252 Directory A Z.......... 252 Getting There & Away... 258 Getting Around......... 262 MALAWI...........265 LILONGWE.............. 268 AROUND LILONGWE.... 279 Dzalanyama Forest Reserve......... 279 Dedza................. 279 Ntchisi Forest Reserve......... 280 NORTHERN MALAWI..... 281 Karonga................281 Chitimba...............281 Livingstonia............ 283 Rumphi................ 284 Nyika National Park.......... 285 Vwaza Marsh Wildlife Reserve........ 288 Mzuzu................. 289 Nkhata Bay.............291 Chintheche Strip....... 295 Likoma Island.......... 297 Chizumulu Island....... 298 CENTRAL MALAWI.......299 Viphya Plateau......... 299 Nkhotakota............ 300 South of Nkhotakota.... 302 Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve........ 302 Salima................ 304 Senga Bay............. 305 Mua................... 307 Monkey Bay............ 308 Cape Maclear.......... 309 Monkey Bay to Mangochi.. 314 Mangochi...............315 SOUTHERN MALAWI..... 316 Liwonde................316 Liwonde National Park...........318 Zomba................ 320 Zomba Plateau..........321 Blantyre & Limbe....... 324 Mulanje............... 333 Mt Mulanje............ 334 Lower Shire............ 338 UNDERSTAND MALAWI.. 342 Malawi Today........... 342 History................ 344 Malawi Way of Life...... 347 The Arts............... 348 Malawi s Natural Environment.... 349 SURVIVAL GUIDE........ 352 Directory A Z.......... 352 Getting There & Away... 358 Getting Around......... 360
Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi 0 0 Lake Mweru 500 km 300 miles Nsumbu Mporokoso ELEVATION Kawambwa Mwenda 3000m 2000m 1000m DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO Benwa 500m 200m 0 Mwinilunga Kafue National Park Wildlife-packed Busanga Plains (p73) Chingola r er ive fu i Zambez Serenje River Ka Mongu Sioma Ngwezi Katima Mulilo Kafue Chirundu Monze Pemba Kariba Lochinvar e ak Okavango Delta Victoria Falls The largest waterfalls on earth (p127) Chinhoyi ZIMBABWE Masvingo Bulawayo Salt Pans NAMIBIA Ka L Victoria Hwange Falls Rundu a rib Kalomo Livingstone Kasane Lower LUSAKA Zambezi Namwala Lake ItezhiTezhi ZAMBIA Kabwe Mumbwa Kafue Senanga Grootfontein Ndola Kapiri Mposhi Lubungu Kaoma River Kasanka Solwezi Kitwe Liuwa Plain Okavango Mansa West Lunga Zambezi ANGOLA Lake Bangweulu Lower Zambezi National Park Canoeing past swimming elephants (p63) Orapa Serowe Messina r ve Mahalapye BOTSWANA o op mp Li Ri GABORONE Sun Lobatse City Polokwane (Pietersburg) s nt ifa Ol er Riv PRETORIA r Keetmanshoop o ol M Ri MBABANE Johannesburg ve po Vryburg SOUTH AFRICA
q i b m a z o Top Experiences Mbala Mpika Kasama Chisoso Katete Mfuwe Chipata Save Nakonde Isoka Nyika North Luangwa South Luangwa Lake Cahora Bassa Nyamapanda HARARE Marondera Mutare Cassacatiza Chitipa Karonga Kasungu JP River Kasungu LILONGWE Tete Dedza Liwonde Majete WR Changara Zambezi River Chimoio Beira Livingstonia Mzuzu Cóbuè Metangula Blantyre Lichinga Mandimba Cuamba Comácha Nicoadala Caia Gorongosa Chimanimani Mt Binga (2436m) Zinave MALAWI Malawi Lake Mt Mulanje (3001m) Inhassoro Vilankulo TANZANIA Cape Maclear Lake Chilwa Quelimane Niassa Reserve Majete Wildlife Reserve Reintroduced lions and a luxury camp (p339) Bazaruto Archipelago Likoma Island Home of dreamy Kaya Mawa boutique hotel (p297) Marrupa Mocuba Malema Mt Namúli (2419m) Montepuez MOZAMBIQUE Alto Molócuè Pebane Namialo Moma Mt Mulanje Twisted peaks, cosy cabins and amazing views (p334) South Luangwa National Park Walking safaris amid animals galore (p52) Metoro Nampula Angoche Palma Moçimboa da Praia Quirimbas Archipelago Pemba Nacala Bazaruto Archipelago Luxurious tropical paradise with dugongs and diving (p186) Quirimbas Archipelago Magical Ibo with its forts and silversmiths (p239) Mozambique Island Mozambique Island Time-warp atmosphere and turquoise seas (p218) Liwonde National Park Hippos, crocs and elephants on the Shire River (p318) h n C n l a e Limpopo Banhine Limpopo Namaacha River Bilene Chókwè Xai-Xai MAPUTO Inhaca Island SWAZILAND Ponta d'ouro Inhambane Massinga Praia de Závora Quissico Maputo Culture, clubbing, museums and fine dining (p145) e u M MADAGASCAR Toliara
Nick Ray Zambia (The Copperbelt & Northern Zambia) A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Cambodia with his wife Kulikar and his young children Julian and Belle. He has written for countless Lonely Planet guidebooks, including Lonely Planet s East Africa and Africa on a Shoestring, plus the Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos books. Nick plumbed the depths of Lake Tanganyika for this edition, as well as getting up to some monkey business in Chimfunshi. Read more about Nick at: lonelyplanet.com/members/nickjray Richard Waters Malawi Richard is an award-winning journalist and works for the Independent, Sunday Times, Wanderlust and National Geographic Traveller. He lives with his fiancé and two kids in the Cotswolds.
OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Mary Fitzpatrick Coordinating Author, Mozambique A travel writer for more than 15 years, Mary s first encounter with Mozambique was in the 1990s, when she spent almost four years living, working and travelling between Ponta d Ouro in the south and Palma in the north. Since then, she has returned numerous times to explore almost every corner of this magnificent country, to enjoy its outstanding beaches and to keep in contact with the countless amazing Mozambicans whom she has been privileged to meet along the way. In addition to authoring many Lonely Planet titles, Mary has also written for various newspapers and magazines, focusing on Africa. Read more about Mary at: lonelyplanet.com/members/maryf Michael Grosberg Zambia (Lusaka, Eastern Zambia, Southern Zambia, Western Zambia) With a valuable philosophy degree in hand, experience in business on a small Pacific island and time spent backpacking through much of Asia, Michael moved to Durban, South Africa where he investigated and wrote about political violence and other fun issues, and helped train newly elected government officials. While there he found time to travel all over Southern Africa, including forays into Zambia. Later, during his years in graduate school and teaching in New York City, he fantasised about returning to the region, which he has been fortunate to do, both on numerous Lonely Planet assignments and for other publications. Read more about Michael at: lonelyplanet.com/members/michaelgrosberg Trent Holden Victoria Falls As a regular visitor to Africa, Trent rates the action at Victoria Falls up there with the best adventure destinations he s covered. As well as its thrills and spills, it s also a spot he loves for its good traveller vibes and friendly locals. He currently lives in Melbourne, Australia and has worked on more than 15 books for Lonely Planet most recently covering Uganda and parts of India. When not travelling he works as a freelance editor for LP, and writes about music and food. Kate Morgan Victoria Falls Having travelled in East and North Africa, Kate was keen to check out what the southern part of the continent had to offer. She was lucky enough to head off to Victoria Falls to stand in awe of the world s most impressive waterfall from both sides, in Zimbabwe and Zambia. Kate is a freelance writer based in Melbourne and has written for other LP titles, including Japan and Phuket. She s also compiled the music/travel anthology, Song for the Road. OVER PAGE MORE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 2nd edition June 2013 ISBN 978 1 74179 722 0 Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs as indicated 2013 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Itineraries Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. 19 Kafue National Park # ZAMBIA LUSAKA #_ Lower Zambezi Valley MOZAMBIQUE Monze Choma Siavonga Lake Kariba NAMIBIA Livingstone Victoria Falls ZIMBABWE Two Weeks Wildlife & Waterfalls This itinerary takes in several of the region s highlights: wildlife, the majestic Victoria Falls and Lake Kariba, one of Africa s largest artificial lakes. Start in Lusaka, Zambia s gateway and an amenable place to get acquainted with local life. Once settled, head down to Siavonga on sparkling, scenic Lake Kariba and relax on a boat cruise. From Siavonga, retrace your steps northwest towards Kafue junction, and then head southwest to the small town of Monze, with its attractive nearby campsite. The next stop is the historic town of Livingstone, gateway to thundering Victoria Falls, which have spray that can be seen from 50km away. Among the many diversions: serene canoe trips on top of the falls or rafting along the churning Zambezi down below. Once you have had a chance to appreciate the falls magnificence, retrace your steps to the busy market town of Choma, and from there travel northwest to Kafue National Park, with excellent birding and abundant wildlife, especially on the grasslands of the Busanga Plains. Spend as much time here as possible before returning to Lusaka. With another week, you could include a detour to the lovely, wildlife-filled Lower Zambezi Valley.
20 DARYL BALFOUR / GETTY IMAGES PLAN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN / GETTY IMAGES»»(above) Zebras, South Luangwa National Park (p52), Zambia»»(left) The shores of Lake Malawi at Livingstonia (p283), Malawi
21 NAMIBIA ANGOLA DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OFTHE TANZANIA CONGO Nkhata Likoma Bay Island Nkhotakota South Luangwa Cóbuè National Park Metangula # Lichinga Chipata #_ ZAMBIA Cuamba LILONGWE LUSAKA #_ MALAWI Nampula BOTSWANA ZIMBABWE MOZAMBIQUE Quirimbas Archipelago Pemba Mozambique Island PLAN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S SOUTH AFRICA SWAZILAND #_ MAPUTO Six Weeks Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi Sampler Exploring all three countries in a single trip makes for an excellent journey. Start in Lusaka, getting your bearings and becoming acquainted with this low-key capital. Allow time also to appreciate its restaurants and its nightlife before taking a flight (or enduring two days of torturous bus and minibus connections) to South Luangwa National Park. This is Zambia s premier park, with an incredible density of animals. Plan on at least three days here, including time for night drives, daytime wildlife drives and a walking safari or two before continuing towards the Malawi border. Continue on via the busy but amenable town of Chipata to the Zambia Malawi border, from where it is just a short jaunt to sleepy Lilongwe. Lilongwe merits a day or two, perhaps visiting the renowned Dedza Pottery or hiking through the cool forests of the Ntchisi Forest Reserve, before heading north to Lake Malawi, passing through historic Nkhotakota. A possible detour en route is to Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve where, with luck, you may see elephants, antelopes and even lions. Once at the lake, Nkhata Bay, with its chilled vibe and many water-based activities, is the perfect place to relax. From here, make your way to Likoma Island to explore the lake s crystal waters, visit the historic cathedral and enjoy the laid-back island pace. From Likoma, it is straightforward to continue over to Cóbuè, a short sail away on Mozambique s wild northwestern lake coast. Once in Cóbuè, you could continue by pre-arranged charter boat to lovely Nkwichi Lodge, or make your way southwards towards Metangula and on to Lichinga. Spend a day or two in Lichinga, with its jacarandas and cool temperatures, before travelling to Cuamba, starting point for the classic 10-hour train ride east to Nampula. Nampula, in turn, is the jumping off point for magical Mozambique Island, a Unesco World Heritage Site and Africa highlight, with its cobbled streets, colonial-era architecture and constant backdrop of turquoise seas. You ll likely want to linger at least two or three days here, perhaps longer, before heading north to Pemba and the wonderful Quirimbas Archipelago, or south towards Maputo.
22 PLAN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S ANGOLA BOTSWANA ZAMBIA ZIMBABWE SOUTH AFRICA MALAWI TANZANIA Lake Malawi MOZAMBIQUE (Lake Niassa) Lichinga Gorongosa National Park & Mt Gorongosa # Chimoio Chimanimani MountainsR Cuamba Beira Bazaruto Archipelago Vilankulo Barra Inhambane Tofo #_ MAPUTO Ponta d'ouro Nampula Gurúè Zalala Beach Quelimane Moçimboa da Praia Quirimbas Archipelago & Ibo Island Pemba Nacala & Fernão Veloso Mozambique Island Two Months Mozambique Grand Tour To explore Mozambique from south to north (north to south works just as well) in a grand overland tour, allow at least two months. With more limited time, it s easy enough to choose sections from the following itinerary, perhaps taking a flight or two to break up the longer stretches. Starting in the far south, spend time enjoying the wonderful beach at Ponta d Ouro before continuing on to the lively, culture-packed capital of Maputo. Here, the many museums, sidewalk cafes, restaurants and craft shops will keep you busy for at least several days. Continue northwards to Inhambane, with its flamingos, dhows and wonderful nearby beaches, including those at Tofo and Barra. Further north, Vilankulo is an amenable spot for a day or three. It is also the springboard to the Bazaruto Archipelago, with its diving and upmarket lodges. From Vilankulo, continue north by bus to Beira, spending a day or two in this old port city before heading west to Chimoio, the best base for organising hiking in the Chimanimani Mountains. Allow four days or more, including transport, for the excursion. Once back in Chimoio, make your way northeastwards to lovely Gorongosa National Park and some more hiking and birding on Mt Gorongosa. The overland route continues north via Quelimane (nearby Zalala Beach makes a good detour) and Nampula to Mozambique Island, where it is easy to spend at least two or three days taking in the sights. Possible diversions en route include to scenic Gurúè, with its cool climate, jacarandas, tea plantations and hiking, and to the area around Nacala for relaxing and diving at Nuarro lodge or in the Fernão Veloso area. Continue north to Pemba or nearby beaches before travelling to the Quirimbas Archipelago. All the islands are lovely, with Ibo a highlight. Sail back to the mainland, and continue northwards to Moçimboa da Praia a pleasant stop for a day or three and on into Tanzania. Alternatively, after visiting Mozambique Island, take the train west from Nampula to Cuamba and then continue on to Lichinga, Lake Niassa and into Malawi.
23 ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN / GETTY IMAGES CRAIG PERSHOUSE / GETTY IMAGES»»(above) Cathedral of Nossa Senhora de Fátima, Nampula (p213), Mozambique»»(left) The beach at Tofo (p176), Mozambique PLAN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
24 Nyika National Park# Livingstonia TANZANIA PLAN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO ZIMBABWE ZAMBIA Nkhata Bay Chizumulu & Likoma Islands MALAWI Mumbo Island MOZAMBIQUE Cape Maclear # Liwonde National Park Zomba Blantyre Majete # RMt Mulanje Wildlife Mulanje Reserve Three to Four Weeks Malawi Odyssey Whether you start in the north or south, this is the ultimate Malawi journey, taking in mountains, wilderness, historical riches and the lake with its beaches. It is best done in a month, to allow time for side trips, but you could squeeze it into three weeks in a pinch. Fly first into Blantyre and spend a day or so getting acclimatised. Time and budget permitting, you could make an easy detour southwest to Majete Wildlife Reserve for several days of pampered wildlife watching before continuing southwards to Mulanje for a three-day hike across Mt Mulanje, the country s highest peak. Recover by spending time in an old planter s house on one of Mulanje s many tea estates before continuing on to the colonial gem of Zomba. Here, enjoy a day or two of gentle walking on the misty Zomba Plateau, perhaps finding time for a riding lesson as well. From Zomba make your way northwards to nearby Liwonde National Park, its lovely scenery dominated by the wide, meandering Shire River. There are hippos and crocs aplenty, as well as various antelope species, zebras and the chance for both canoe and walking safaris. After you ve had your fill, head for the lake and the small resort village of Cape Maclear. Budget at least three days here, with an overnight visit to Mumbo Island in Lake Malawi National Marine Park and time kayaking and swimming with the brilliantly coloured fish. From Cape Maclear make your way up the lakeshore to Nkhata Bay, Malawi s other famous lakeshore resort. Here, you can snorkel, kayak or even take a course at a local dive school. From Nkhata Bay you could detour to Chizumulu and Likoma Islands, or continue northwards to lovely Nyika National Park, the country s largest, where you can explore wild, flower-carpeted grasslands, reminiscent of the Yorkshire Moors, on foot or on horseback. Finally, it s time to delve into history at Livingstonia, a quiet hilltop town that provides a glimpse into Malawi s colonial-era past. From Livingstonia, continue northwards into Tanzania (and from there into Zambia), or retrace your steps southwards, perhaps continuing on into Mozambique or Zambia.
25 TANZANIA Nkhata Bay ZAMBIA MALAWI #_ LILONGWE Chizumulu & Cape Maclear Cuamba Islands Likoma MOZAMBIQUE Nampula Grande Quirimbas Comore Archipelago, Ibo Island & Matemo Island Pemba Murrébuè Mozambique Island PLAN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S ZIMBABWE Three Weeks Beaches & Islands Mozambique has some of the most enticing coastline on the continent. Combine exploration of its northern highlights with visits to Lake Malawi s alluring islands and inland beaches for an adventurous but relaxing itinerary. The beach town of Pemba, in northern Mozambique, makes a good starting point. Spend a few days here getting acclimated and enjoying the vibe. Don t miss nearby Murrébuè, with its kite-surfing, quiet, white sand and turquoise-hued ocean vistas. Next, set off for enchanting Ibo Island, a regional highlight, with its massive star-shaped fort, its silversmiths and its crumbling colonial-era mansions. After exploring and enjoying the island s pace, charter a dhow for several days to explore Matemo or one of the other nearby islands in the Quirimbas Archipelago. Once you manage to tear yourself away from the charms of the Quirimbas islands, turn southwards the most straightforward route will take you via Pemba to the crowded regional hub of Nampula. If you arrive early enough in Nampula, it is possible to avoid overnighting here, continuing the same day on to magical Mozambique Island. Plan at least several days exploring this Unesco World Heritage Site, with its time-warp atmosphere, historical treasures, cultural riches, sea breezes and wonderfully low-key pace. Once back on the mainland, you will need to pass through Nampula for an overnight, before catching the train west to Cuamba. The ride is not anywhere near the coast, but it is scenic, and offers fascinating glimpses into local life. After an overnight in Cuamba (where the train arrives late afternoon), continue into Malawi via either the Entre Lagos or Mandimba border posts, and then travel straight on to lovely Lake Malawi. Cape Maclear makes a convenient first stop, with many options for snorkelling, kayaking and relaxing. From Cape Maclear, the route turns northwards to the scenic beachside outpost of Nkhata Bay, with its fine selection of lodges, kayaking, swimming and diving. From Nkhata Bay, it is possible to detour to beautiful Chizumulu and Likoma Islands, where the highlights are the scenery, local life, the relaxed pace and Likoma s historic cathedral. Once you ve had your fill, travel southwards to Lilongwe and a flight home.
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