SHETLAND RURAL ISLAND MARITIME HERITAGE ASSET ATLAS PROJECT HERITAGE LOTTERY FUNDED PROJECT

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SHETLAND RURAL ISLAND MARITIME HERITAGE ASSET ATLAS PROJECT HERITAGE LOTTERY FUNDED PROJECT 1

This information pack has been prepared as part of the Shetland Rural Island Maritime Heritage Asset Atlas Project which is administered by the NAFC Marine Centre. Funding for this project was provided by the Heritage Lottery Fund. NAFC Marine Centre 2017 This document is available from our website at http://www.nafc.ac.uk NAFC Marine Centre Port Arthur Scalloway Shetland ZE1 0UN 01595 772000 maritimeheritageproject@uhi.ac.uk All images within the document are copyright of Charlotte Slater (NAFC) unless otherwise stated.

CONTENTS Introduction... 04 Summary... Project Aims... Fair Isle... Foula... Papa Stour... Skerries... 05 05 06 06 07 07 Dates and Events... Getting involved... 08 09

INTRODUCTION Welcome to the Shetland Rural Island Maritime Heritage Project. This booklet contains information about the maritime heritage found in Shetland, the aims of the project, prospective dates for events related to the project and information on how to get involved. Within the pack are scaled maps of each of the islands that will be covered in the project, leaflets and posters to advertise the project, and business cards with key contact information. We would also like to take this opportunity to thank the Heritage Lottery Fund on behalf of National Lottery players for funding the project and the following organisations for offering their support to the project. 4

SUMMARY In a UK context Shetland is often considered remote. However, in the North Atlantic the islands are strategically located for fisheries and were at the heart of the Scandinavia Empire, situated between Norway and the Faroe islands. In the 9th century Shetland was a staging post for the Vikings as they moved down across the UK. Shetland and Orkney remained and still retain visible Scandinavian influence. At the end of the Viking era Shetland stayed an important marine area and in the 13th- 17th century the isles were a base for the Hanseatic League fishermen and traders who sailed up from Europe every year for the rich fishing grounds. In the 18th-19th century Da Haaf fishery became a large industry, where local men rowed some 60 miles offshore using lines to fish, followed by the Herring boom, trebling the population of Shetland with migrant workers. During the 20th century whaling became an important industry, with four stations based in Shetland. All these events and industries and many more mean that Shetland has a rich maritime history that has influenced much of the culture and traditions the islands are known for today. The Shetland islanders have been renowned worldwide for their seamanship and skills, with men being press-ganged into the Navy during the Napoleonic Wars and travelling as far afield as South Georgia on whaling ships up until the late 1960s. Nevertheless, both the physical and oral evidence of this past is eroding away. Much of the local knowledge of the extensive maritime history is at risk of being lost. As are the local traditions and memories of island life as people move away from the more remote areas of 5 the isles. Many of the maritime structures associated with these past industries and traditions are having to compete with coastal erosion and neglect. The purpose of this project is to create a detailed account of the maritime heritage of the four most remote islands of the Shetland archipelago, namely Fair Isle, Foula, Papa Stour and Skerries. Data will be collected about any physical structures, people s memories and thoughts; traditions, and skills related to the maritime history on each island. This will be done through research, workshops and field surveys. The information will be electronically archived in the Shetland Museum and Archives, on-line and made available as a public resource for communities and for local and central government decision makers. The project will be a starting point for the chosen communities to safeguard these sites and their oral history and may act as a pilot for a Shetland wide project. PROJECT AIMS Inspire people of all ages to engage with the local heritage Offer opportunities to gain and improve field surveying and archive research techniques. Collate and update local and national records of the remote Shetland Isles maritime heritage

FAIR ISLE Fair Isle sits approximately half way between the Orkney and Shetland archipelagos around 24 miles to the south of Shetland. At times the island can be cut off for weeks due to poor weather. The name is familiar to most due to its connotations with Fair Isle knitting. Although it is unlikely that the knitting style originated on the island, it was developed by the industrious residents to become one of the most famous knitting styles in the world. PAPA STOUR Today fishing is not a main economy for Fair Isle, but in the past the islanders were wholly reliant on fishing and trading with passing ships and these connections with the maritime can still be heard in the local dialect and folklore of the isle. It is anticipated that the main areas of focus for the project will be around North/South Haven on the east side of the island where the fishing station was based during the 17th - 19th centuries, and the South Harbour along the southern coast of the island. Papa Stour sits just off the west coast of Shetland and has suffered a significant population decline in the past 50 years, with only 15 residents recorded in the 2011 census. As with the rest of Shetland, Papa Stour had strong links with Scandinavia and became a Royal Norwegian farm in the 13th century. However, when Shetland was pledged to Scotland as part of a dowry in 1469, Papa Stour remained part of the Lairds of Norway s estate until well into the 17th century. Papa Stour was a base for Hanseatic League merchants (merchants and fishermen who 6 travelled from the Hanseatic countries for the fishing season) during the 16th century buying fish from the local fishermen. When the island changed ownership to two Shetland based lairds in the 18th century they continued the prosperous fishing industry, with a fishing station based in West Voe, opening in the 19th century. The main focus areas will be Housa Voe, Bragasetter and Hamna Voe. Although there are not many residents left on the isle, there are many people living on mainland Shetland who have family ties to the island and who will be invaluable for gathering oral history and traditions from.

Norman Leask Foula is approximately 20 miles off the west coast of mainland Shetland, and can be cut off from the mainland for weeks at a time due to high winds or fog. This has meant that the islanders are very self-reliant and have been for centuries. The uses of different plants for dyes, food substitutes and even using lichens in lieu of tobacco in the past shows how resilient they were. Historically fishing was an important part of daily life with fish caught and brought back to the island to be salted and dried and then sent to FOULA European markets. Fish were also a staple part of the islander s diet, especially the off cuts such as the head and livers. Foula was also used as a land mark for fishermen from other islands when heading out to Da Haaf (deep sea fishing) and features in a variety of songs and folklore. The main area of focus in Foula will be along the eastern coast of the island where the toonships are based. SKERRIES Out Skerries known locally as Skerries, is a small group of islands on the east coast of Shetland. Two islands are inhabited and are connected with a bridge. There is a strong community on Skerries however, the primary school recently closed. Fishing has been a main employer for the island for many generations, and the annual eela and the round Skerries yacht race are highly anticipated community events in the summer months. Skerries was important during Da Haaf fishing providing a landmark and a base for the fishermen in open rowing boats. Ling Beach was an artificial beach and gained its name for being used to dry fish that were caught around 60 miles off shore. Some of the community continue to dry fish but on lines rather than on the beach. The main focus area will be around the harbour where there are remains from Da Haaf fishing. Skerries also has an active history group which would be a good starting point to gather oral history. 7

DATES & EVENTS PROSPECTIVE DATES Training workshop: 24th February 2018. Venue: Islesburgh Community Centre Papa Stour Fieldwork Trip: 4th April 2018. Leave West Burrafirth at 9am and return from Papa Stour at 3.45pm. Fair Isle Fieldwork and Memory Recording Trip: 6th April- 9th April 2018. Leave Tingwall airport at 3pm on the Friday and return from Fair Isle at 9.35am on the Monday. Foula Fieldwork Trip: 11th April 2018. Leave Tingwall airport at 9am and return from Foula at 4.45pm. Skerries Fieldwork Trip: 13th April 2018. Leave Laxo at 7.10am and return from Skerries at 4pm. Day in the Archives: 18th April 2018. Spend a day looking at maritime heritage related to the four islands within the archives at the Shetland Museum and Archives. There will be a number of events through the project on each of the islands and on the mainland. There will be a training workshop, scheduled for the long weekend in February which will include the Scottish Coastal Archaeology and the Problem of Erosion (SCAPE), the Shetland Amenity Trust and a local photographer. This event will give people hands on experience of recording and researching the heritage of Shetland. Confirmation of schedule and how to book will be published on the website and advertised locally closer to the time. Each island will be visited during the Easter Holidays in 2018. Preliminary dates can be seen within the green box to the left. Please refer to the website and Facebook page for confirmation of dates for these trips. The first island trips will be to record the physical remains on the islands and will include a community walk around the coast. There will be another trip later on in the project to spend a morning/afternoon collecting peoples memories, stories, traditions etc. The project will culminate with an exhibition displaying the work collected by the volunteers and the publication of a book showcasing the maritime heritage in the four islands. This will happen during the summer/ autumn 2018. 8

GETTING INVOLVED Allen Fraser There are a number of ways to get involved with the project. To be kept up to date with activities happening throughout the project, you can like our facebook page Shetland Rural Island Maritime Heritage Project or join the mailing list by emailing maritimeheritageproject@uhi.ac.uk. There is also a website, which will have updates of the fieldwork and research that is happening. There are opportunities to go out to the four islands to carry out fieldwork, with funding to cover ferries to and from Papa Stour and Skerries for 6 people on each trip, flights to and from Foula for 4 people and accommodation and flights to and from Fair Isle for 4 people. There will also be drop in sessions held on the mainland where people can come along, learn about the project and contribute too. CONTACT INFORMATION Project Officer: Charlotte Slater Email: maritimeheritageproject@uhi.ac.uk Phone: 01595 772233 Address: NAFC Marine Centre, Port Arthur, Scalloway, Shetland, ZE1 0UN Website: shetlandmaritimeheritageproject.com Facebook: Shetland Rural Island Maritime Heritage Project Finally if anyone is unable to come to any of the sessions on offer but would still like to contribute to the project, please get in touch through any of the contact information listed on this page. Relevant photos, videos and sound recordings can be sent to maritimeheritageproject@uhi.ac.uk or uploaded on the facebook page. 9