The County of Varaždin Travelling through time 1
a fly through time Forests, grasslands and vineyards scattered across a rather small and hilly area of Ravna gora, Kalnik and Ivanščica in the north of Croatia gradually transmute into the plain of the Pannonia lowland. This is where the County of Varaždin lies. Water streams permeate the green landscape: river Drava with rivulets Bednja and Plitvica and various creeks flowing down the hills. Roads and railways are simply the pathways that bring travellers to stations in time and space. 2 3
Airdrome Ivanščica The roof of northern Croatia geological past Whoever had the opportunity to land at 1061 meter high Ivanščica summit touched the highest point of the Croatian Zagorje and the north of Croatia. The mountain stretches across 27 kilometres in the direction of east-west. Its eastern arm is the boundary between the Croatian Zagorje and Podravina. The central part of the massif is a reflection of the tumultuous geological past of the entire area. The area of Gaveznica Kameni vrh, close to Lepoglava, is the only preserved fossil volcano in Croatia and is the deposit site of the semi-precious stone agate. It is there, on the educational trail with expert guides, that these tracks become truly palpable! The massif of Ivanščica divides two major European transport corridors: Rijeka-Budapest in the east and Split-Graz in the west, at one location which is only 10 kilometres away from the eastern corridor. Northern slopes of Ivanščica are very steep, ending with arable land, gardens, orchards and vineyards. Southern slopes are hilly and often covered with vineyards. Almost the entire mountainous belt at a height of over 400 m is covered with woods. Ivanščica is the preferred destination of paragliders. At the top of the ski piste they built an airdrome which is every year home to several international competitions. The mountain climate of Ivanščica with chilly summers is convenient for mountaineering, and in long winters with lots of snow (around 100 days) it is a favourite destination for Alpine and Nordic skiing, sledding and snowboarding. The mountain peak offers stunning views of the surrounding scenery. During warm and long summers the slopes provide a perfect location for jogging, walking, touring, cycling, summer schools in nature and horseback riding. Famous water springs can be found at the bottom of Ivanščica. Medieval traditions are nurtured by the Ivanovci knights. For those not finding Ivanščica sufficiently challenging, they can visit a popular free climbing destination Pokojec, located near Novi Marof. 4 5
The ridge crest of Ravna gora A path through plant communities the origin of life A fly over Ravna gora will reveal a mountain of flat ridge with the highest number of karst formations in the north of Croatia. Pits, sinkholes, cliffs and rocks are clearly discernible and shadows in the greenery hide cave entries. Ravna gora offers an extremely interesting educational trail on which visitors can admire the biodiversity of flora and fauna and often incredible karst forms. The entire educational trail, from its starting point at Filić s mountain hut, fits into 900 meters of total length and yet underneath the steep cliffs it passes by as many as one cave and four plant communities. It is a unique experience to pass across the trail in June when the relict linden and yew communities, the most significant among all, ooze their intoxicating scent. It is this community on Ravna gora that is the richest in this part of Europe. The black pea sessile oak woods abound in beautiful old trees of the Turkey oak. Beech and fir tree woods with fescue at the upper rim of rocks reach their full potential on Ravna gora and Macelj and are as aged and sized as nowhere else at such low above sea level! In terms of its biodiversity, it suffices to mention that this is home to 25 plant communities and as many as 88 taxa. Of this number, eight are strictly protected and 21 have conservation status. In addition to this, one habitat of endemic pre-alpine heartsease can be found on the rocks. At the highest point of the massif, at some 680 meters, close to the church of the Holy Three Kings, mountaineers erected an 11-metre high sightseeing pyramid which oversees the surrounding greenery and offers a spectacular view. There is another educational trail on Kalnik, a mountain whose alluring beauty attracts all mountaineers, hikers, paragliders and other excursionists. On the western side of the town Veliki Kalnik, at 480 meters, there is a mountain hut which can be reached by numerous mountain trails. 6 7
Backwaters, meanders, shoals Significant wet habitats the origin of life The bottomland is mostly covered by the transboundary Regional Park Mura Drava, whose 10 thousand hectares belong to the County of Varaždin. It is one of the most significant European riverine ecosystems. The inundation area of Drava, Mura and Danube is part of the largest Unesco s planned and unique riverine transboundary biosphere reserve in Europe! The silver lines of Mura and Drava breathe life into this extremely biologically and landscape-wise diverse area. Freshwater swamp forests, wet grasslands, dead backwaters, abandoned riverbeds, meanders, shoals and steep eroded banks are swarmed with freshwater and wetland bird and fish fauna. Besides various rare and endangered species at national and European level, which make each nature lover s heart beat faster and which offer them an opportunity to enjoy photo safaris, passionate fishermen will also have their share of fun at dedicated locations for sport fishing. This is the area of sustainable authentic wildlife in which human impact fits perfectly and complementary into the natural environment. Settlements located within the boundaries and in the surroundings of the park are harmonious parts of this whole. The life of people living in this area is inextricably linked to rivers and they have developed a particular way of living and traditions accordingly. Visitors can also enjoy modern recreational water activities. Those who like strolls will particularly enjoy the circular Drava educational trail which passes through a biologically diverse landscape with 185 listed plant and 109 animal species. For those more ambitious recreational types, an extraordinary experience will be offered by the international regional Drava cycling route (Mura Drava bike), which also connects Slovenia and Austria through the regional park. 8 9
Entry into the cave The chosen place for living the dawn of humanity Getting to know this area, bit by bit, one gets to fit in all the pieces of a unique puzzle. Well, of course! It is no wonder that this is the area that people have chosen as their living ground since the dawn of humanity. Evidence of this dates back some 500 thousand years! This is how old flint tools and weapons found in the gully of Punikve are. The eastern side of the valley Velika Sutinska is where Mačkova cave is located, the site where the remains of early humans and stone and bone tools were found. For food collectors, this was the place of abundance and wedges and blades found in this location evidence a very successful hunting activity of our early man. Extremely precious items from the dawn of humanity, arrowheads, awls, splitters and endscrapers from various archaeological sites are exhibited as part of an extremely valuable paleontological collection of the Varaždin City Museum. The area that the early man chose as his living ground corresponds to the Pleistocene, a geological epoch in which, apart from occasional warm periods, as many as four glacial cycles took place. Nevertheless, the land was generous and hospitable at all times. The remains that were found in this location speak of diverse and dangerous prey hunted by our ancient hunters. In the caves Vindija and Velika (or Mačkova), remains of beasts such as cave bear, mammoth and woolly rhinoceros were found. The abundance of pre-historical findings has placed the region of Varaždin on all world paleontological and anthropological maps. Even at the very dawn of civilisation, man realised he wanted to live here. This is clearly seen in ground stone tools, which are preserved by the Varaždin City Museum as a unique collection of the oldest European tools, but also in the traces of the Neolithic Revolution, when south-eastern Europe was inhabited by the first cattlemen and ploughmen. Since ancient times, this area has been a preferred destination of hunters of all generations. And a horn of plenty good food! 10 11
Thermal spas Rest, recovery, cure classical era For thousands of years, this was the intersection of the most significant roads. In the classical era, as a sign of high civilisation, these roads connected Petovia (Ptuj) and Siscia (Sisak), Aquae Iasae (Varaždinske Toplice spa), Aquae vivae (Petrijanec) and Ioviae Botivo (Ludbreg). In Roman times, Varaždinske Toplice spa was a resort alongside one of the major roadways used by the Romans to expand their empire and build a new urban civilisation of the time. As much as they built roads for strategic purposes, vineyards they planted were intended for the pleasurable everyday life. As the hedonistic lifestyle was characteristic for the ancient Romans, they exploited thermal springs to build spas for their leisure time. This is where tired warriors were pampered in various ways. And as much as the thermal water was leisure for the antique grandmasters, its therapeutic properties for treating rheumatic conditions were very soon heard of. This is why a balneological sanatorium has been developed at this location and after almost two thousand years of its existence, nowadays it is a modern health resort. The complex in Varaždinske Toplice spa is a famous health resort, a place of recovery and preparation of athletes, as well as a place for family leisure with numerous recreational features such as Aquafest, a festival organised and held at the archaeological site of Aquae Iassae. Besides wine, which can be tasted with food on four wine routes, guests can taste Roman cookies or Roman lemonade or they can relax and enjoy Roman massage. In the museum playroom or at the original archaeological site children can learn to play the games of little Romans - tropu, ludus, castellorum, orcu, omillu... with faithful copies of playing tools from the museum collection! Children and parents can also play in the Roman ceramic workshop: they can learn how to make antique items for everyday use and cult items and bake them in the replica of the Roman ceramic kiln! 12 13
From myth to nobility A fortress with a moat medieval period, renaissance The fall of the Roman Empire did not bring about the end of this area. A brief outline can be: only the crews changed. Of all immigrants, the Croats were the ones to put down the deepest roots. They brought along exotic Slavic mythology, and in their new homeland they yielded their nobility. The mountain peaks Gorica, Koprivnjak and Ivanščica are the points of the legendary Slavic triangle with the throne of the main god of thunder, Perun, located at the highest peak. The name of Garestin appeared at these ancient times, which is the oldest name of Varaždin. Stari grad Varaždin is one of the most significant fortresses in the defence system used to fight the Ottomans. The fortress with a moat is mentioned in the 12th century. By the end of the 14th century, it was rebuilt in the Gothic style, and circular towers were added during the large scale renewal when it turned into a modern renaissance fortress of the 16th century. Varaždin was the seat of kings, the Croatian Parliament and rulers such as Bela I and II who rendered important decisions here. With Grebengrad, Čanjevo and the tower in Kneginec the list of old fortresses is far from exhaustive. Old tribal parishes became counties and tribal chiefs became feudalists around whose properties medieval settlements developed the beginnings of today s towns and municipalities. Modern day visitor will not find merely buildings and fortresses but also live presentations of how people lived and knights fought in the medieval period and renaissance! With a continuous blossom sequence of honey plants and relentless labour of bees honey is produced and the contribution of apiarists to its making is part of a tradition that the Croats brought along during their migration from the original homeland. Modern organic apiculture yields top products: from various types of the finest honey and royal jelly to propolis and different honey based sweets and liquors. 14 15
Modest but festive meal On top of a horse-drawn cart medieval period, renaissance Even in ancient times the village fed the town. Medieval towns would open their doors to the villagers, who would then, wearing festive traditional costumes, enter with their horse-drawn carts and offer the fruits of their land and labour to the nobility who was not so eager to leave their fortresses protected with walls and moats filled with water. Articles made of clay, baskets and other wattle products, simple children s toys and decorations for modest homes were all available from the villagers horse-drawn carts. An integral part of the festive meal was first chicken, and then turkey (after it became domesticated), which is still the case. Sarma was prepared for several days, as it is the best when heated the day after it was first cooked. Cakes were modest, made of cheese and poppy, and wine was made in home cellars. Gold was washed alongside river Drava. Clay was used to form jars, bowls, plates and various figurines, either sacral or for playing. Medičari were famous as manufacturers of candles and wax votive items for sacrifice, pledge, the salvation of the soul and protection from vicious diseases and spells. In time, this tradition turned into a modern production or exclusive offer for specific occasions but its originality remain preserved, as is visible from Zeljarijada in Vidovec (traditional preparation of cabbage dishes), Šlingani dani (folklore festival), International Festival of Ethnic Music in Cvetlin and numerous wine exhibitions. Varaždin cabbage is the example of an old local variety convenient for both growing and processing, primarily by way of pickling according to preserved traditional methods and contemporary knowledge, just as is the Varaždin pumpkin seed oil, which has always been an inevitable part of dining tables in this area. The presentation of wedding traditions known as Bednjanska svadba is seen as a spectacle almost everywhere in the world. The tradition preserved by the culture and art society Franjo Sert from Bednja transfers the precious ethnographic heritage and shows the significance of this area s inhabitants, but it also documents the distinctive speech of Bednja, which has been protected by the UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. 16 17
Pilgrimages and kermises in Ludbreg The place of miracles and legends renaissance, baroque The link with the heavens is the Ludbreg miracle of the Precious Blood of Christ the oldest miracle in this area recognised by Rome. Pilgrims who arrived at the shrine in Ludbreg received absolutions by Pope Julius II in 1512 and Pope Leo X in 1513. This old settlement, built on the Roman foundations, was officially recognised as the place of miracles and legends by the Church as early as in ancient times. The entire region of Ludbreg is characterised by holy sites. Tower bells, churches, chapels and crucifixes are the landmarks in space and time. Ludbreg, this meeting point of believers on the Holy Sunday, is the votive location of the Croatian Parliament. During these days of September, thousands of people go on pilgrimage to Ludbreg. And in spring, on the 1st of April, this little town celebrates something entirely different The Centre of the World Day! But this is actually only a prolonged arm of this area s tradition the arm of humour and joy. By declaring itself the centre of the world, Ludbreg created a follow-up of the old Roman concept of the centrality of the empire, which was then continued with the Catholicism which placed Vatican in the heart of the Church. Having a strongpoint in this area s mentality, for years Ludbreg has been building humorously at the broadest and highest level a belief that the centre of the world lies exactly in this location. Playing masterfully with facts and fiction, a witty Swiss polymath Erasmus Weddigen added to this local carousel a touch of global glamour. This centre of the world, from which the zones of European and global poleis and megalopoleis spread in concentric circles, besides the inevitable carnival in February, hosts the international flower festival Flora Centrum Mundi and, in line with this area s logic, the aeronautical Fizir Cup, named after one of the pioneers of airplane construction, Rudolf Fizir, who was born in Ludbreg. 18 19
Masters of old crafts A festivity in itself renaissance, baroque The urban unit of Varaždin is as colourful as the duration of the town itself, but this does not make it less harmonious. Aerial photography reveals a well-thought urbanism while the pedestrian viewpoint shows that the town even with no particular festivity is a festivity per se. This is where the medieval setting meets renaissance, which then add up to form baroque. And wait till you hear about the people of this area! They nurture a long tradition of craftsmanship. This has always been a place of diligent, hard and skilful work. Old trades and crafts were preserved even in the post-industrial era, primarily because they had been deeply rooted in history. With each day, handmade products are becoming more and more desirable and warmer compared to the industrially made items manufactured in thousands and millions of identical copies. In 1766, the Empress Maria Theresa forwarded to the Varaždin town magistrate an order to plant mulberry trees and begin rearing silkworms and as early as in 1784 the first silk spinning mill became operational. This is how the way was paved for Tivar, later known as Varteks, the textile company and fashion style which marked the history of more than the region of Varaždin. Fresh milk z bregov (literally from the hills) and various dairy products remind us of Vindija, while the semi durable sausage Ivanečki jeger is made according to a hundred-year-old recipe using the finest parts of pork and beef. Serious, frivolous and pop art, both in music and drama, and in popular and folk art, is seen at the end of each summer during the famous and picturesque Špancirfest. For a week, it paints the streets in the colours of good mood, with costumed sellers, street entertainers and masters of old trades and crafts. However, this is not a mere costume party but is rather a concentrate of popular and cultural events which draw attention of thousands of people every year. 20 21
Baroque has become a landmark It is Ranger! baroque Varaždin blossomed when the threat of the Ottomans vanished. Baroque was the final stylistic touch which now pervades every corner of the town. Construction flourished and life became more dynamic. The new style arrived with the Pauline monks and Counter-Reformation and the new spirit of the Croatian culture was felt. In 1683 in Lepoglava, for instance, the Paulists founded the course of studies in philosophy and theology, the oldest system of higher education in this part of Europe. The renewal from the medieval and renaissance lifestyle to baroque impacted the entire region. Baroque became the landmark of the entire area. Today it seems as if the castles, churches, chapels and crucifixes found at intersections have always been a part of this lovely landscape. Although the predominant stylistic feature of the centre of Varaždin is baroque, the quintessence of this stylistic period is in Lepoglava. This is where the first medical textbook was printed in this part of the south-eastern Europe, first surgical instruments were produced, first precise geographical maps were drawn, first vocabularies were written and the Paulists and the Ursulines selflessly disseminated knowledge among people. The Paulists brought along the mastery, beauty and magic of what is today known as the Lepoglava lace. But to top it all off, extraordinary baroque churches, from cathedrals to chapels, adorn road intersections. Elaborately equipped, baroque sacral buildings are full of exquisite artwork. Some of the masterpieces of the time were collected from all over the world and one of the great names of mural painting Ivan Krstitelj Ranger was the author of most commissioned original artworks in this area. Although born near Innsbruck, it is on the walls and ceilings of churches and monasteries that his creativity reached its peak. And this is where his true home was. To sum it all up: baroque, it is Ranger! 22 23
From one castle to another The valley of castles baroque, historicism For many modern visitors, the period of expansion of the Ottoman Empire is one particularly interesting. After the loss of south-eastern regions, the remaining Croatian nobility found shelter from their conquests in northern counties. Families erected castles and curiae in such an amount that the County of Varaždin is worthwhile visiting with only one aim: to explore it from one castle to another. Names worthwhile remembering are Maruševec, Klenovnik, Bajnski dvori, Krkanec, Novi Marof... All of these have an inimitable identity. The first among these, of course, is the most picturesque one Trakošćan. Located on top of the hill, with its historicist features developed in the Romantic era of the 19th century, it closes the historical circle and becomes a metaphor for all others in the surroundings. It is precisely this castle that has continuously since 1334 witnessed many historical events, events in private and public sphere, dreams that came true and those unfulfilled. Passing through its rooms, the interiors with renaissance, baroque, rococo and neo-classicist furniture, furnaces and mirrors, visitors can reconstruct an entire world that has long gone. The portraits of the family Drašković members reveal the size of the portion of Croatian nobility in the context of the European noblesse. Oil portraits of children are a grotesque image of the precocious panopticon. The collection of portraits by an extraordinary painter of neo-classicism Mihael Stroj sees the sophisticated taste of their commissioners, and the paintings of the countess Julijana speak of a talented and emancipated lady and the ties nobility had with Vienna and other centres of culture of the time. Baroque, of course, evolved into classicism, and then into historicism and neo-classicism. It is interesting that the features of all these styles are representatively concentrated in a rather small area. One might say that it suits perfectly the needs of a man! 24 25
Forests, parks, hunting Zelendvor 19th century Zelendvor is one of the oldest hunting grounds in Croatia. It was founded in 1870 by the count Marko Bombelles when he brought to this area a considerable amount of pheasants from south Moravia. This pheasant farm was the basis for today s organised hunting activity in this part of the County of Varaždin. The seigniory in Zelendvor became a role model and rich hunting ground, a preferred destination of many local and foreign hunters. The richness of the hunting fund and the ethical treatment of wild game and visiting hunters, as per the old Austrian-Hungarian hunting tradition, attracted numerous respectable hunters, representatives of aristocracy and eminent citizens. The hunting grounds in the County of Varaždin are nowadays among the best developed and most advanced ones in Croatia. The oldest such hunting ground, Zelendvor, belongs to the Pannonian lowland type, it is almost entirely flat and pervious, and it covers the surface of 8500 hectares. The lowland ground, groves and hedgerows, as well as tiny villagers plots, are all suitable for rearing and hunting small game. Zelendvor is widely known for its individual and group hunting of grey partridges, pheasants, quails, woodcocks, snipes and rabbits and brown hares. Of course, in the County of Varaždin there are also hunting grounds for large game such as deer or wild boar, as well as for wetland game. During his travels across the globe, namely Japan, China, Caucus, North America etc., the count Bombelles brought various plants to the castle of Opeka in Vinica where with the assistance of Viennese horticultural architects he turned the park into an arboretum with rare plant species. The arboretum Opeka, as a part of its gardens, is an outstanding combination of English style garden architecture and meticulously grown plants and trees which have been living their maturity only in the past decades. This is how today s vast and idyllically peaceful countryside landscape enjoyed by all has been developed. 26 27
Music, acting and photography The capital of culture 19th-20th century Nature, historical landmarks and monuments are only the static aspect that gives a hint to visitors as to its more dynamic side cultural life. Its peaks are world-level. The painting of the 20th century cannot be described without mentioning Ivo Režek, naïve artist Ivan Rabuzin, Slavko Stolnik and Franjo Klopotan, and a great painter of the fantastic realism Miljenko Stančić. Franjo Maixner excelled in the area of design, cartoons and comics and the pioneers such as count Drašković and Mosinger, as well as multi-genre artists such as Petar Jagetić and Lupino, have all been brilliant in the area of photography. The theatre has seen various generations of great actors. The most prominent was the long-lived pope Zvonimir Rogoz. This famous theatre actor played in over 60 films, and is remembered globally as the partner to Hedy Lamarr in the subversive Machatý s film Ecstasy from 1933. The Varaždin theatre has seen the glare of stars such as prima donnas Sena Jurinac, Nada Puttar Gold, Ruža Pospiš Baldani, and the concert podiums have yielded names such as the pianist Jurica Murai, fagottist Rudolf Klepač, violinist Josip Klima, and opera bass Franjo Petrušanec. One must not forget the composer and guitar virtuoso Ivan Padovec, the star of the European concert audience of the 19th century. Besides today s renowned pedagogical music literature, he is also known for his invention of a guitar with two necks. No wonder then that Varaždin is today, at the beginning of autumn, the host of one of the most quality and long-lived music festivals - Varaždin Baroque Evenings. Of course, naturalists will also find their reason to travel to Varaždin. Among other things, they can be interested in the globally relevant entomological collection with 50 000 exhibits. The town of Varaždin oozes with talents and life as a kind of a capital of culture. 28 29
Macelj Ptuj Slovenia Bednja Ormož Slovenia Drava The Ormoš Lake Čakovec Cestica Nedelišće Donje Vratno Svibovec Vinica Petrijanec Podravski Marčan Sračinec The Varaždin Lake Gornja Voća Ladanje Zlogonje Donja Voća Varaždin Trnovec Šemovec Donja Višnjica Maruševec Vidovec Bartolovečki Jalkovec Trakošćan Žarovnica Klenovnik Zbelava Jalžabet Cerje Tužno Nebojse Sv. Ilija Turčin Kelemen Jerovec Bednja Ivanec Salinovec Lepoglava Beletinec Svibovec Završje Varaždinske Podbelsko Toplice Madžarevo Ljubešćica Novi Marof The Dubrava Lake Hrženica Hrastovljan Sv. Đurđ Slanje Kotoriba - Nagykanizsa (Hungary) Ludbreg Bolfan Bednja Drava Kapela Podravska Koprivnica tourist board of Uska 4, 42000, Varaždin +385 42 210 096 www.turizam-vzz.hr tourist boards of the towns Ivanec www.ivanec-turizam.hr Lepoglava www.lepoglava-info.hr Ludbreg www.tz-ludbreg.hr Novi Marof tz-novi-marof.hr Varaždin www.tourism-varazdin.hr Varaždinske Toplice www.toplice-vz.hr TZ Bednja www.info.bednja.hr imprint Publisher Tourist board of the County of Varaždin For the publisher Elizabeta Dolenec, direktorica Concept Shm Text written by Miroslav Ambruš Kiš Copyediting Mario Rebac Design Bojan Sivački Photography Darko Gorenak Godar Proofreading Mirna Bojanić Coordinator Marko Cmrečak Printing company Letis Year 2014. Kalnik Hum Breznički Visoko Breznica Zabok - Zagreb Zagreb Content 1 a fly through time 10 Thermal spas Rest, recovery, cure 20 Baroque has become a landmark It is Ranger! Airdrome Ivanščica 2 The Roof of Northern Croatia 12 From myth to nobility A fortress with a moat 22 From one castle to another The valley of castles The ridge crest of Ravna gora 4 A path through plant communities 14 Modest but festive meal On top of a horse-drawn cart 24 Forests, parks, hunting Zelendvor Backwaters, meanders, shoals 6 Significant wet habitats 16 Pilgrimages and kermises in Ludbreg The place of miracles and legends 26 Music, acting and photography The capital of culture Entry into the cave 8 The chosen place for living 18 Masters of old crafts A festivity in itself 30 31
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