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Infinita Highway From architects to adventurers, two Brazilian mainstreamers take to the road. By Leonardo and Daniele Pinheiro 95
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As Brazilian architects, we were not unlike thousands of other people around the world except for the 2.5-hour commute each way to work. We had accepted a very routine life, one with a lot of traffic, high stress, and high taxes. We were also very disappointed with the architecture business in Brazil. With no room for anything but profit, the functionality and art form of design had been pushed aside for the bottom line. The beginning of the end, when our lives took a turn for the better, was while planning a vacation in Egypt. We had talked about making an extended trip, something more than a vacation, and decided we could not wait any longer. At the time, we didn t have enough money to just leave, yet we set about making a plan. We would travel by car from Ushuaia, at the southern tip of South America, to Prudhoe Bay, at the northern tip of North America. We d always wanted to know more about the Americas and witness the beauty of each individual country. On a piece of paper, we sketched an itinerary. Climate conditions would be a priority, as we would need to be in Ushuaia and Alaska during their summer months. It would take us a year to prepare our exit strategy. Our plan was very simple. We would travel in Troller, our Brazilian diesel Jeep. At first sight it seemed very small, but we made adjustments so it could be our home for the months of travel. A month before departure, we quit our jobs this was perhaps the easiest decision we made and dedicated the following weeks to the Jeep s final preparations. On February 13 th, with butterflies in our stomachs, we drove off into the unknown to chase our dreams. South America surprised us with its diversity of landscapes and cultures, a high point being Southern Bolivia. The roads can dislocate your spine, the 12,000-foot elevation can cause severe fatigue, and temperatures can be freezing. But the beauty of the region made us forget these discomforts quickly. The ruins of the Incas in Peru are beyond words, and the diversity of flora and fauna are not to be missed. Unfortunately, we had heard bad things about Colombia drug trafficking, guerrillas, kidnapping and our planned route through the country would be more of a mad race. Why? Fear! 97 Route Campos de Cima da Serra is the coldest place in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, much sought after in winter by Brazilians who want to see snow. It is a region of contrasting natural beauty, such as the many waterfalls and green canyons of Parque dos Aparados Serra and Parque da Serra Geral. In the midst of mountains, lakes, forests, and snow is the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (the Glaciers). It contains two of the most renowned peaks in South America, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torres, which attract climbers worldwide. We found that a simple walk through the park was rewarding enough. (Opening spread) Panoramic views of Chilean Patagonia reward the traveler on the Carretera Austral. Talking to other travelers, we were encouraged to witness Colombia in a true overland way. We decided to trust in our road friends and not listen to the sensationalism of most TV reports. After visiting Colombia, we would now say the most dangerous part of this country is the roads. The guerrilla issues are not completely resolved, but they are limited to isolated areas. What at first might scare you is the number of troops and armed police. Yet unlike neighboring countries, they work honestly and were always friendly. If we had decided to skip Colombia, it would have been a cultural prejudice and a wasted opportunity. Without a doubt, leaving it all behind has been a life-changing experience. We feel alive, free. We ve enjoyed many great moments, but two were certainly the most significant: the day we committed to go, and the moment we turned the key and drove into the unknown. While each geographical border represents an achievement, the real borders are the differences: cultural, racial, and physical. We are always learning from them, every day overcoming fears and discarding prejudices. You never know what you ll find or how you will be received. We take time to get used to new foods, climates, and customs, and when we begin to feel at home, we know it is time to move towards the new. This is what keeps us in constant motion.
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Located in Parque Nacional los Glaciares, the Perito Moreno glacier is considered to be one of the most important freshwater sources in the world. Its dimensions are impressive, as is the deafening noise it creates when it calves. In moments when the glacier is not active, the area s silence reminded us of just how small we are, yet how our actions can negatively impact the environment. 99 Hard work, thin Andean air, and the harsh rays of the sun take their toll on residents of Tilcara, Northwest Argentina. Their lives are simple, clean, and peaceful, yet longevity is lower than average. From the top of Route 52, on the way to Paso de Jama, you can see the road s snake-like nature as it winds its way through the Andes. This was the first time we felt the evils of altitude sickness: headaches, nausea, and fatigue.
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101 Though nearby facilities are scarce, Volcano Quilotoa, Ecuador, has become a popular tourist site. The emerald green caldera, which spans two miles and is 820 feet deep, was formed 800 years ago, following the VEI- 6 eruption. The water is said to get its emerald appearance from the high mineral content. The town of Salento, Colombia, seemed to be colorfully frozen in time. The bustling Calle Real, the coffee zone, has a special and unique charm. Set between peaceful green mountains, there is no doubt about the tourist potential as Colombia becomes more accepted as a destination. Machu Picchu, known as The Lost City of the Incas, was unknown to the modern world until its 1911 discovery by American historian Hiram Bingham. It is a magical place, one of the Seven Wonders of the modern World. The park is accessed by train from Cusco, or via the Inca Trail.
Denali National Park was certainly the most striking of all the parks we visited in the U.S. It provides many opportunities to view animals in their natural habitat and the charming Mt. McKinley is not to be missed. This photo will be forever in our memories. After six months on the road, we were so close to reaching the northern end of North America. Arriving in Alaska was much more than knowing we would achieve our goal, it represented the faith we placed in our dreams, and the determination to achieve them. 102