DONOSTIA SAN SEBASTIAN I N G L É S
INDEX THE KEYS TO DISCOVERING DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 3 3 6 8 The keys to discovering Donostia- San Sebastian History Walks: Maritime The Romantic Area The Old Quarter and Urgull 14 18 22 24 28 29 Parks and Gardens Museums Eating and Drinking Fiestas and Festivals Cultural Agenda What shall we do today? The keys to discovering Donostia-San Sebastian Reina Regente, 3-20003 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIÁN Tel: 943 48 11 66 Fax: 943 48 11 72 sansebastianturismo@donostia.org www.sansebastianturismo.com RESERVATION CENTRE: Tel: 943 47 38 81 reservas@sansebastianreservas.com www.sansebastianreservas.com On the shores of the Cantabrian Sea and surrounded by green mountains, the lovely city of San Sebastian captivates the senses; nothing you may have already heard can compare to the reality of delighting in its incomparable scenery, strolling through its streets and gardens, sampling some of the famous pintxos and experiencing at first hand that special San Sebastian atmosphere. Capital of the province of Gipuzkoa and the cultural and tourist centre of the Basque country, this city of 180.000 inhabitants seduces everyone who visits her and offers a range of attractions to satisfy every possible taste. T The most well-known image of San Sebastian but hardly less stunning for that is its ravishing bay in the shape of an almost perfect shell, thought to be one of the most beautiful in the world.the sea lies peacefully between the island of Santa Clara and the encompassing hills of Igeldo and Urgull which protect the town centre from the wind and waves. Bisected by the River Urumea, Donostia expanded by reclaiming land from the sea, which has always exerted such an influence on her landscape.thus developed an ordered city, whose buildings and edifices blend into the surroundings, where streets, avenues and walkways combine harmoniously with the wealth of nature all around. The Old Quarter, still The evocation of bygone days of the Old Quarter, the Belle Epoque Modernism of the Romantic area and contemporary constructions like the Kursaal, flying the flag of avant garde architecture, create a unique urban composition.
THE KEYS TO DISCOVERING DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 5 concealing medieval remains, evokes bygone days; the Romantic area breathes the spirit of Belle Epoque Modernism and more contemporary constructions such as the avant garde architecture of the Kursaal combine their appeal to create a unique urban composition whose every corner is worthy of admiration. But beneath the serene and tranquil order of the streets, the city exudes vitality from every pore: in her markets overflowing with fresh produce from the earth and in her bustling fishing port: in the kitchens of innumerable restaurants and in the warmth and friendliness of her people: in her museums and exhibition halls, whose enthusiastic visitors imbue art and culture with a special vitality: on any one of her three beaches which, in summer, fill with the bright, picturesque colours of parasols and bathers, or in the parks scattered Culture also holds a privileged position in Donostia with music, film and art being the leading proponents: and under the heading of Art we must include its superb gastronomy, replete with specialities to seduce the most demanding palate. throughout the town centre and surrounds: in the rowing regattas, where enthusiasts cheer on their oarsmen, or at the raising of the flag on San Sebastian Day when the beat of the drums marks the start of the festivities The fiestas crowd an agenda already replete with activities and performances: the riotous tamborrada, the Saint s Day of the city, the colourful carnival, the exuberant Semana Grande with its breathtaking fireworks, or the traditional Santo Tomás fair. Culture also holds a privileged position in Donostia, with music, film and art being the leading proponents. Enjoying a concert during the Jazz Festival or the Musical Fortnight, or a film during the International Film Festival, or admiring a performance of street theatre provides a counterpoint to a routine filled with such small everyday pleasures as a moment of rest and contemplation at the Peine del Viento or a round of pintxos in the Old Quarter Because another of the huge attractions of Donostia is its superb gastronomy, replete with specialities to seduce the most demanding palate. Respect for traditional cuisine, combined with innovative cooking methods creates a culinary culture which forms part of the very character of the Donostiarran people.the cider houses and gastronomic societies a phenomenon found only in the Basque country, and especially in Gipuzkoa are the perfect complement to a land bursting with flavour. We urge you to experience and to get to know San Sebastian, to take part in its customs and enjoy all of its many charms, to admire a city which is at ease with the passage of time. Faithful to its traditions and respectful of the past, Donostia very much lives the present and steps firmly forward towards a future of innovation and progress, reinventing itself day by day.
6 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN HISTORY HISTORY DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 7 CHRONOLOGY OF MAIN HISTORICAL EVENTS 1014: Donation to Leire of the Monastery of San Sebastian by Sancho the Strong of Navarra. 1174: The King of Navarra, Sancho the Wise, bestows the Municipal Charter of San Sebastian, thought to be the founding of the city. 1200: San Sebastian and Gipuzkoa are incorporated into the Kingdom of Castilla. 1450: Construction of the first trading port. 1522: Carlos V bestows upon the city the title Most Noble and Loyal Town. 1597: Plague devastates the city. The contagious were treated on the island of Santa Clara. 1662: Felipe IV concedes the title of City. 1719-1721: first capitulation of San Sebastian to French forces. 1728: The initiation of the shipping company Real History Although theories abound as to earlier origins, the first written evidence of San Sebastian dates back to 1014, arising from the Donation to Leire by the Navarran King Sancho the Strong of the Monastery of San Sebastian, located in the neighbourhood of El Antiguo. King Sancho the Wise of Navarra s need for a clear route out to sea for his kingdom led him, in 1174, to bestow the fuero, or privilege of selfgovernance, to San Sebastian, enacting a series of laws which we can assume to be the official foundation of the township. Maritime trade began to join forces with the traditional activities of cod and whale fishing. Proximity to France and its position on the Camino de Santiago route not only encouraged the development of this little coastal town, but also meant that it became a key strategic point during times of war; for this reason it became a garrison town during the 12th Century.Although it suffered numerous sieges over the course of centuries, the inhabitants always managed to save the city from its enemies; at least, until 1719, when the first capitulation of the town took place, falling into the hands of France whose dominance lasted for a period of three years. In 1794 the city yielded once more to the French attackers, on this occasion until 1813, when it was liberated by Anglo-Portuguese soldiers. However, this battle sparked off the worst fire in the history of the town, leaving only a few houses standing, and obliging the citizens to reconstruct it almost from scratch, thus creating the Old Quarter that we know today. Happier times were to follow, when Queen Isabel II, whose doctors recommended sea bathing to alleviate her skin afflictions, made summering in San Sebastian fashionable.this was back in 1845, and from then on her presence attracted the Court and numerous members of the aristocracy during the summer months. The city started to become famous and needed space to grow and expand.the walls were demolished in 1864, and the urban development that took place gave rise to the Ensanche Cortázar, the current town centre. San Sebastian reclaimed land from the River Urumea and the marshes were turned into new neighbourhoods, giving birth to a new, more serviceable city. At the beginning of the 20th Century, Donostia experienced a strong population surge and began a period known as its Belle Epoque, becoming the preferred tourist destination of the European upper classes. Queen María Cristina installed the court in the Miramar Palace during the summer months and luxury hotels, casinos and theatres flourished in response During the First World War, moneyed Europeans took refuge from the conflict in San Sebastian. Much of the French influence which is noticeable in the town can be attributed to these visitors. Not quite such happy times followed with the prohibition of gambling in 1925 and the Spanish Civil War in 1936, in spite of which the city continued to be a favourite amongst the upper classes.the following years of heavy industrialisation gave rise to a dark period to which several errors in urbanisation can be attributed. However, during the second half of the 20th Century, San Sebastian consolidated its economic, cultural and tourist potential, encouraging new projects and, at the same time, preserving its natural and historic heritage, becoming, in the process, the magnificent combination of modernity and tradition that we know today. Compañía Guipuzcoana de Navegación a Caracas, boosting maritime trade. 1794-1813: Surrender to French domination. 1813: Anglo-portuguese troops liberate the city, but start off a fire that completely destroys it. 1845: Isabel II makes La Concha beach fashionable. 1854: San Sebastian is named as provincial capital. 1864: Demolition of the old walls surrounding the city. 1887: Queen María Cristina establishes the court s summer residence in the Miramar palace and La Concha is named as the Royal Beach. 1888: The first stone of the Buen Pastor church is laid, this being finished in 1897, and designated a Cathedral in 1953. 1912: The Igeldo funicular, the Victoria Eugenia theatre and the Hotel María Cristina are opened. 1926: Channelling work on the Urumea river comes to an end. 1953: The first San Sebastian International Film Festival takes place. 1966: The San Sebastian Jazz Festival is initiated. 1995: The new Zurriola beach is opened. 1999: The Kursaal Congress Palace opens its doors.
8 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN WALKS WALKS DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 9 Walks From the Peine del Viento (Comb of the Wind) to Monpás A veritable symbol The railings running all the way around La Concha bay are one of the symbols of the city. Their design is the inspiration behind posters, jewellery and souvenirs, carrying the image of San Sebastian all over the world. Created at the beginning of the 20th Century, by Juan Rafael Alday. Maritime The sea is the protagonist of this route, which starts on the slopes of Monte Igeldo and ends at the headland of Monpás, beneath Monte Ulía. The walk covers some seven kilometres, without leaving the coastline, and encompasses the three Donostia beaches Ondarreta, La Concha and La Zurriola, whose environment management system has received the ISO 14001 quality label, allowing us to discover the seaside facet of the city, through the distinctive buildings which enhance the natural backdrop. Environment Management System of Donostia San Sebastián beaches Our route commences in one of the most beautiful spots in the city, the PEINE DEL VIENTO 1, or Comb of the Wind, a work of art by architect Luis Peña Ganchegui and sculptor Eduardo Chillida.The combination of wrought iron, stone and sea creates a unique and incomparable setting.the sound of the waves draws us to Ondarreta beach, with its promenade and gardens, which forms a backdrop for a statue in honour of Queen María Cristina 2. This was the monarch who ordered the construction of the MIRAMAR PALACE 3, establishing it as the Court s summer residence. From the entrance, located in the El Antiguo neighbourhood ( The Ancient so called because the very first inhabitants of the town lived there) the gardens lead us up to the Palace, which is in the Queen Ann English Cottage style. Descending to the other Panoramic view from Monte Ulía. entrance we come to the Paseo de la Concha. The MONUMENT TO FLEMING 4, another of Chillida s works, is a lovely spot to relax and 2 8 7 contemplate the scenery. 6 Opposite lies the island 3 of SANTA CLARA.A little 4 further away we find the PEARL OF THE 5 OCEAN, once one of the most important spas in the world which today houses a modern Thalassotherapy centre 5. At the end of the promenade we come to the AYUNTAMIENTO (TOWN HALL) 6, the old Casino and the REAL CLUB NÁUTICO (Royal Sailing Club), a striking building in rationalist style, whose concept is that of a boat moored to a quay.take a stroll along the jetty and savour the sea at your feet. THE PORT is home to both fishing and pleasure boats, with the brightly coloured fishermen s dwellings forming a backdrop.at the end of the quay we come to the NAVAL MUSEUM 7 and the AQUARIUM 8. Don t miss this opportunity to visit them. The stairs lead to Jorge Oteiza s work, CONSTRUCCIÓN VACÍA (Empty Construction) 9, located in the PASEO NUEVO 10, which goes along the foot of Mount Urgull. On days of heavy seas the waves quite often reach the promenade. Continuing along next to the sea, we come to the KURSAAL BRIDGE 11, a fine example of Modernism which enhances the estuary of the River Urumea. Crossing over, we come to the Gros neighbourhood and the KURSAAL CONGRESS PALACE AND AUDITORIUM 12, a symbol of the new architecture and new cultural direction of the city, which was conceived by architect Rafael Moneo as two rocks grounded on the seashore. From here, the ZURRIOLA PROMENADE runs alongside the beach, ending at Monpás point.this is a favourite meeting place for surfers, but no need to rush there s always someone there whatever the time of day.the bars in this area, always full of atmosphere, are a welcome spot to end the excursion. 1 9 10 11 12 SURFING La Zurriola beach is the most open to the sea of all the Donostiarran beaches and is thus the perfect place to surf. There are almost always powerful waves. THE ROYAL BATHING HUT The Royal Bathing Hut, of stone construction, replaced the original wooden portable one from which the monarchs were accompanied down to the seashore by the Royal Lifeguards to take therapeutic dips in the sea. Take a good look at the detail of the street lamps as you pass: there are more than 100 different kinds in the city.
10 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN WALKS WALKS DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 11 Walks From the Boulevard to Araba Park The Romantic Area Romantic San Sebastian covers the length of the Ensanche Cortázar and was planned at the end of the 19th Century after the protective city walls were demolished. The streets, forming a perpendicular pattern, outline an ordered and serene city, where sandstone buildings blend into the surroundings and the French influence is easily discerned in their design. PIO BAROJA This bust of Pio Baroja is located between Calle Oquendo and the Victoria Eugenia Theatre: it pays homage to the Donostiarran writer and commemorates the centenary of his birth (1872-1956). Baroja was a member of the 98 generation, revitalising with his simplicity the narrative prose of the end of the 20th Century; his body of work is essential reading in order to understand the character of the Basque people. TThe Modernist area starts at the BOULEVARD 1, which separates the Old Quarter from the district constructed after the demolition of the wall, and which has recently been rehabilitated and transformed into a bustling pedestrian zone.the tree-lined avenue is presided over by the BANDSTAND, almost one hundred years old, and the TOWN HALL, which is renowned as being one of the most beautiful buildings in Spain. Originally intended as a casino, some of the most magnificent parties of the era were held in its salons.the gardens of ALDERDI EDER, with their characteristic tamarinds can be found opposite. Just a couple of blocks further on is the PLAZA DE GIPUZKOA 2, a square which exudes tranquillity and romanticism. On one of its sides, the PALACIO DE LA DIPUTACIÓN DE GIPUZKOA 3, stands out, a neoclassic building by the architect Goikoa. Next to the river stand the inseparable duo formed by the VICTORIA EUGENIA THEATRE and the HOTEL MARÍA CRISTINA 4. Celebrities ranging from Mata Hari to John Malkovich have admired the neo-plateresque façade of the theatre and have succumbed to the warm luxury pervading the hotel. Between these buildings stands a sculpture honouring Admiral Oquendo which looks towards the SANTA CATALINA BRIDGE 5, the oldest in the city.the PASEO DE FRANCIA 6 is simply stunning, and with its stately French-style mansion houses is one of the most romantic corners of the city. Here we find the ESTACIÓN DEL NORTE 7, whose interior canopy is a creation of the engineer Eiffel.To return via the other bank, we cross over the MARÍA CRISTINA BRIDGE 8, probably one of the most beautiful in the whole of Donostia, whose four heavilyornamented obelisks represent Peace and Progress.This flows into the PLAZA DE BILBAO 9, which, with its Donostia-San Sebastian Town Hall. 1 2 3 10 11 View of the Hotel Maria Cristina and the Victoria Eugenia Theatre. 4 9 12 13 14 circular shape, breaks with the rationalist style of the adjacent streets. From here, via Calle Alfonso VIII, we come to the square containing the BUEN PASTOR CATHEDRAL 10, a centennial temple in neo-gothic style, the EDIFICIO DE CORREOS (Post Office) and the KOLDO MITXELENA cultural centre 11, which houses an extensive library and where periodic exhibitions take place. Just a step away is CALLE PRIM 12, whose elegant façades and doorways dating from the beginning of the 20th Century feature a number of exquisite Modernist details.take a good look at numbers 17 and 28.At the end of the street, the old BELLAS ARTES theatre 13 marks the end of the district and the beginning of the Amara neighbourhood.the ARABA PARK 14,in the Plaza del Centenario, softens with its greenery the transition between styles.we can return along the PASEO DEL ARBOL DE GERNIKA, which runs parallel to the river and whose mansion houses are hidden behind the branches of the elms crowding the pavements. 5 8 6 7 THE HIGHEST POINT The tower of the Buen Pastor cathedral, 75 metres high, is visible from almost the whole city and acts a point of reference for exploring romantic San Sebastian. MARIA CRISTINA BRIDGE María Cristina bridge carries the name of the royal benefactress of the city and was opened in 1905. It evokes the Alexander III bridge in Paris and in its obelisks, crowned by groups of sculptures, we can see the San Sebastian coat of arms.
12 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN WALKS WALKS DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 13 Walks The Old Quarter and Monte Urgull Panoramic view from Monte Urgull Straight and narrow streets cleave the Old Quarter, once fortified and now the centre of Donostiarran social life with its innumerable bars, restaurants and gastronomic societies. Monte Urgull, a genuine natural fortress, presides over this urban development of neoclassic style which, with the exception of a few buildings, was constructed after the 1813 fire. We enter the Old Quarter by way of the LA BRETXA MARKET 1, thus named (The Breach) for being the spot where the Anglo- Portuguese troops penetrated the city during the siege of 1813. Once the old food market, it has recently been transformed into a shopping and leisure centre.the streets in the old quarter are bursting with life and a constant coming and going of passers-by. At dusk, the bars and restaurants fill up with both young and old.the most atmospheric street by far is FERMÍN CALBETÓN 2 and its bars are absolutely irresistible. 1813. Here we find the Plaza de la Trinidad hidden away, with a frontón court for playing pelota and a grandstand which bears witness to sporting competitions and concerts. Nowadays, this street constitutes one of the main historical arteries of Donostia.At one extreme lies the CHURCH OF SAN VICENTE 5,the oldest church in the city, which was built at the beginning of the 16th Century. Of austere Gothic style, its ribbed vaults, counterpoints and the statue of Christ, creation of Felipe de Arizmendi, are particularly noteworthy.at the other end lies the SANTA MARÍA BASILICA 6, erected on Roman ruins, whose outstanding feature is the Baroque façade dominated by a sculpture of San Sebastian, the Christian martyr. Pay a visit to the Virgen del Coro, or sit on the steps to contemplate the beautiful view, with the Buen Pastor Cathedral in the background. Next to the Basilica we find GAZTELUBIDE 7, one of the most traditional of the city s gastronomic societies.very close to this, a steep staircase eroded by the footsteps of centuries leads us to the PASEO DE LOS CURAS (The Priests Walkway) 8, a privileged viewpoint where once upon a time the priests would stroll under the shade of the trees. High up on Monte Urgull we find the CASTILLO DE LA MOTA 9, constructed in the 12th Century and a key element in the town s defence.you can still see today the cannons that the Donostiarrans used against enemy troops.towards the north is the CEMENTERIO DE LOS INGLESES (The English Cemetery) 10.At the peak, the SAGRADO CORAZÓN (Sacred Heart) 11 monument presides over the city from the heights. Descending via some steps, we come to the MUSEO DE SAN TELMO 12, an old Dominican monastery with a beautiful Herreriano-style cloister lining its interior.the museum has an important collection of Basque ethnography and culture as well as works by Zuloaga and Josep María Sert, and interesting exhibitions take place periodically. The Plaza de la Constitución is the Old Quarter s heart. CEMENTERIO DE LOS INGLESES (The English Cemetery) The English Cemetery is located on the northern slopes of Monte Urgull. Watching over it is a monument dedicated to the memory of the brave British soldiers who died in the War of Independence and the Carlist Wars. THE SACRED HEART The thirty-metre high statue of the Sacred Heart dominates San Sebastian from the peak of Monte Urgull. The work of Federico Coullant, it was erected in 1950, from which time it has become a point of reference in the urban landscape. 9 10 11 8 7 4 6 12 3 5 2 1 In the heart of the Old Quarter lies the PLAZA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓN 3, the nerve centre of Donostia, where the vast majority of festive events take place.the colourful façades, with numbers painted onto every balcony, remind us that this was once a bullring. From Calle San Jerónimo we come to the 31 DE AGOSTO 4, the only street in the city that remained standing after the devastating fire of
14 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN PARKS AND GARDENS PARKS AND GARDENS DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 15 Parks and gardens Providing a counterpoint to the bustle of the city, the numerous parks and gardens give us a leisurely and romantic view of Donostia. Make sure you wear comfortable shoes: there s a lot to see! TAMARIND The tamarind tree is another of the city s emblems; it is actually a bush, which has managed to adapt perfectly to the local climate. Its twisted branches and the angle of its trunk remind us that it is subject to the constant battering of the wind. MIRAMAR PALACE The Miramar Palace is secreted in one of the most beautiful parts of the city. The PARQUE DE AIETE, probably the most spectacular of Donostia s parks is located on one of the hills which surround the city. It was designed by Pierre Ducasse, a French gardener resident in San Sebastian, and encompasses the Palace built in 1878 for the Dukes of Bailén, which was used by Queen María Cristina, King Alfonso XIII and the Spanish dictator Franco, as well as many other politicians and aristocrats. For decades, access to the park was restricted to these dignitaries, until in 1977 its gardens were opened up to the public.to its already numerous attractions, Donostia added this beautiful spot, both tranquil and vibrant, with its lush greenery and beautiful show of flowers in springtime.today it welcomes strollers and couples in love, and occasionally well-known public personalities.a number of ponds are secreted in the gardens and a wide variety of interesting botanical species such as magnolias, monkey puzzle trees, sequoias, gingko trees, oaks, beech, yews, elms, sycamore and so on.the section of garden on the slopes, meanwhile, still retains the wild, damp and dusky enchantment of natural woodlands. Rather less sophisticated but with all the charm of nature in its purest The Park and Palace of Aiete state, you can almost lose yourself in the woods of the CRISTINA ENEA PARK, forgetting that we are just a short distance from the town centre. It was donated to the city by its original owner, the Duke of Mandas, and its name pays homage to his wife, Cristina. It is the largest of San Sebastian s parks and boasts extensive woodlands whose most characteristic varieties are gingko, palosanto trees, giant sequoia, cedar and false cypress. More common varieties are also well represented, among which are plane trees, Indian chestnuts, lindens, elms and magnolias. Peacocks live happily alongside swans and other fauna.today, the park also has a children s playground and circuits for sporting activities. One of the most visited parks is MIRAMAR, which occupies a privileged position between La Concha and Ondarreta beaches. The English influence is evident in the architecture of the Palace, a work in the English cottage style by engineer Selden Wornum, while the French influence comes to bear in the gardens, designed by Pierre Ducasse.The magnificent view over the bay from this spot is complemented by the delightful array of various species of trees. Carefully tended paths guide us between the trees and flowerbeds, through surroundings of great beauty. 9 3 7 5 4 1 8 GREEN ZONES OF THE CITY 1 Urgull 2 Lau Haizeta 3 Miramar 4 Miramón 5 Aiete 6 Ulía 7 Santa Clara 8 Cristina Enea 9 Igeldo 2 6
16 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN PARKS AND GARDENS PARKS AND GARDENS DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 17 from the city centre to this new emplacement, necessitating the re-laying of 6,300 stones in exactly the same way as the original. Somewhat further away, in the Donostiarran neighbourhood of Alza, the LAU HAIZETA PARK (meaning four winds in Basque) is indeed a recipient of winds from all four directions, and functions as the principal lung for the dense urban development surrounding it. The three mountains guarding San Sebastian and the island crowning the bay are endowed with natural spots which provide real vantage points over the marine horizon.a walk through the MONTE ULÍA woods takes us to the rocky crags of the Aguila (Eagle), Rey (King) and Ballenero (Whaler), from where the lookouts used to scan the horizon in search of whales, alerting the port by means of a bonfire if any prey was spotted. From IGELDO we get a panoramic view of San Sebastian and the surrounding area, with the Cantabrian Sea to one side and the mountain range on the other.the tower, which used to be a lookout, was rebuilt as a tourist attraction and the impression you get from the top is simply spectacular. URGULL is blessed with some lovely walks among medieval ruins and war remains, leading up to the Sacred Heart, a thirty-metre high statue which dominates the city.this is an inimitable spot which to imagine past battles, and also to spend some time relaxing, surrounded by nature, without getting too far away from the centre. ISLAND OF SANTA CLARA The island of Santa Clara gives a completely different perspective of the city and the boat trip over there from the port is delightful (this service is only available in summer). Once a prison and a burial ground for plague victims, today it just has a small beach and a very pleasant walk out to the lighthouse. Plaza de Gipuzkoa The gardens of ALDERDI-EDER and PLAZA DE GIPUZKOA integrate perfectly with their urban surroundings.the former park is one of Donostiarrans favourite places to stroll.the Plaza de Gipuzkoa is emblematic of romantic San Sebastian. Its gardens, thick with lime trees, chestnuts, yews, banana trees and palms, preserve the charm of yesteryear and provide a meeting place for both children and the elderly.the pond with its ducks and swans is a great attraction, as is the floral clock, the weathervane, the bust in homage to musician Usandizaga and a magnificent specimen of a Washingtonia palm. Once outside the city, we find wide open green spaces such as the MIRAMÓN PARK, home to the Miramón Kutxa Space of Science and a Business and Technology Park. Rivalling the avant garde office buildings is the Gipuzkoa in Miniature collection which comprises intriguing models of the most emblematic of Guipuzcoan edifices, such as the Santurio de Aránzazu, the University of Oñate or the seat of the Autonomous Delegation of Gipuzkoa. In the background you will see the Torres de Arbide, which were transferred in their entirety in 1974 Torres de Arbide, in the Miramón park IGELDO FUNICULAR The original Igeldo funicular, inaugurated in 1912, climbs in just a few minutes from the station next to Ondarreta beach up to the peak of the mountain and the Funfair. CRISTINA ENEA PARK Cristina Enea was a central meeting point for politicians and the aristocracy at the end of the 19th Century before its owner, the Duke of Mandas, donated it to the city of San Sebastian in 1917. He made a number of conditions in his Will, one being that the design of the park must be respected and another that none of the trees could be cut down. The peacock is just one of the birds to be found in the Cristina-Enea park
18 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN MUSEUMS MUSEUMS DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 19 Museums SAN TELMO MUSEUM ADDRESS Pza. Zuloaga, 1. TELEPHONE 943 48 15 80 From Tuesday to Saturday: 10.30am-13.30pm and 4.00pm-7.30pm. Sundays: 10.30am-2.00pm. Closed all Mondays. Donostia boasts an extensive and varied selection of museums which should satisfy the curiosity of even the most inquisitive. History, science and technology, oceanography, art and other sources of learning are distributed among thematic museums which communicate knowledge through their comprehensive exhibitions and up-to-date facilities. IIn the heart of the Old Quarter, the SAN TELMO MUSEUM. occupies a magnificent 16 th century building which used to be a Dominican monastery. Subsequently the old Artillery Barracks, it was turned into a municipal museum in the 20 th Century and is currently undergoing extensive renovation.the cloister is of renaissance style, with a ribbed vault and semicircular arches, and the interior houses an important collection of Basque ethnography, anthropology, art and culture as well as paintings by the artist Ignacio Zuloaga.The old church, now an auditorium, is decorated with canvases by the Catalan artist Josep Maria Sert. The Aquarium and the Naval Museum are located side by side in the Port, just a few metres apart.the PALACIO DEL MAR or AQUARIUM is one of the most modern in Europe. Its creation was instigated by the Oceanographic Society of Gipuzkoa in 1928 with the idea of gathering together Basque maritime tradition and providing a means of understanding and conservation of treasures from the sea.the building, designed by architect Juan Carlos Guerra, is constructed on rock and the entrance is presided over by the skeleton of a 14-metre whale, the last one to be captured off the Guipuzcoana coast in 1878. Recent renovations have made the Aquarium more educational in nature, with an oceanarium through which an acrylic tunnel with 360º vision runs, in which the visitor, surrounded by sharks and rays, truly feels part of marine life. More than 5,000 species inhabit the numerous tanks, which include a tactile pool where some live specimens can be touched. Close by is the NAVAL MUSEUM, an entity totally devoted to the relationship between the Basques and the sea and, most particularly, with sea-going vessels. Here we can learn about traditional boat-building and the evolution in techniques and in maritime navigational instruments. The Museum is housed in the old Guildhall of the San Sebastian Consulate an organisation of maritime trade professionals which was built around the middle of the 18th Century. Located slightly outside the town centre in the Amara neighbourhood is the DIOCESAN MUSEUM, which houses a comprehensive collection of religious art comprising paintings, Oceanarium of the Donostia -San Sebastian Aquarium DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN AQUARIUM ADDRESS Plaza de Carlos Blasco de Imaz s/n. TELEPHONE 943 44 00 99 1/03-7/04: Monday to Friday: 10 am - 7pm. Weekends and holliday: 10am-8pm. 8/04-30/6 and September: Monday to Friday 10am-8pm. Weekends and holliday: 10am-9pm July and August: 10am-9pm. NAVAL MUSEUM ADDRESS Pº del Muelle, 24. TELEPHONE 943 43 00 51 Tuesday to Saturday: 10.00am-1.30pm and 4.00pm-7.30pm. Sundays and public holidays: 11.00am-2.00pm. Closed Mondays. REZOLA CEMENT MUSEUM ADDRESS Avda. Añorga, 36. TELEPHONE 943 36 41 92 Tuesday to Sunday: 10.00 am 2.00 pm Saturdays: 10.00 am 2.00 pm and 5.00 pm 8.00 pm Summer (Monday to Friday): 10.00 am 2.00 pm and 5.00 pm 7.00 pm Saturdays: 10.00 am 2.00 pm Holidays: please check in advance. Closed Monday. Free entrance. HOW TO GET THERE Bus: Line 25 leaving from the Boulevard and stopping right by the Museum.
20 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN MUSEUMS MUSEUMS DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 21 KUTXA SPACE OF SCIENCE ADDRESS Paseo Mikeletegi, 43. TELEPHONE Information tel.: 943 01 24 78 Reservation tel.: 943 01 29 17 (9.30am-1.30pm.) 1 Sep-30 Jun: Tue-Fri. 10 am-7 pm/ Sat, Sun, and holidays, 11 am-7 pm 1 Jul-31 Aug: Mon-Fri: 10 am- 8 pm-sat, Sun, and holidays: 11 am-8 pm. Ticket delivery closes 45min before closure. HOW TO GET THERE Bus: Line 28 leaving from the Boulevard and stopping at the Miramón. DIOCESAN MUSEUM ADDRESS Parroquia Sagrada Familia. TELEPHONE 677 466 627 From May to September: 10 am to 1 pm and 4 pm to 7 pm. From Oct- April: Groups by appointment only. ENVIRONMENTAL RESOURCE CENTRE ADDRESS Cristina Enea Park TELEPHONE Tel.: 943 45 35 26 From Monday to Friday, from 9:30 am to 1:30 pm and from 3 pm to 8 pm. Sunday and holidays from 10 am to 1:30 pm. sculpture, imagery and ornamentation from the Diocese of San Sebastian.The works of art on display date from the 13th to the 19th centuries; noteworthy amongst them is the collection of Romanesque and Gothic sculptures and the series of 16th and 17th Century pieces from the church of San Miguel de Oñate. The Palace of D. Fermín Lasala s Palace, Mandas Duke, located in the park known as Cristina Enea, was adapted by the Donostia-San Sebastián Town Council.This old property that he bequeathed to the City is used as an ENVIRONMENTAL RESOURCE CENTRE, Urban Landscape and Sustainability Observatory.The palace houses a library with environmental topics. Besides a permanent venue for exhibitions related to sustainability, it is also a training centre for all levels on issues concerning the environment. The latest offering on the Donostia cultural scene is made up of the REZOLA CEMENT MUSEUM, the Miramón Kutxa Space of Science and the Chillida-Leku.The first takes a contemporary look at the culture of this traditional company and mainly covers the history of cement and its importance to our civilisation. It also compiles a history of manufacturing through various different thematic areas as well as housing temporary exhibitions of a historical nature. KUTXA SPACE OF SCIENCE is the place to go to understand science and new technologies.this interactive museum covering 8,000 m 2 transmits scientific and technological concepts to the visitor by means of a clear, straightforward and educational approach. It boasts a digital planetarium and astronomical observatory which gives us a quite unprecedented vision of the city.there are also special sections given over to knowledge of the Earth, Communication, Chillida-Leku Museum Energy, Light, Mechanics and other scientific mysteries.there is a special section for children and fascinating temporary exhibitions regularly take place. Finally, CHILLIDA-LEKU is Chillida s place, an area devised by the artist himself as a living exhibition of his art. In the 16th Century country house of Zabalaga, among green fields, beech trees, oaks and magnolias, the Chillida family has gathered together the works of this most international of Basque artists in a successful attempt to bring his creations closer to the general public. More than 40 huge granite and iron creations are on display in the open air.the restored interior houses a collection of smaller works: sketches and the earliest of the artist s sculptures.this magnificent venture encourages the visitor to wander and mingle with the artist s works, and to seek to comprehend and interpret their meaning. Kutxa Space of Science CHILLIDA-LEKU MUSEUM ADDRESS Caserío Zabalaga. Bº Jauregui, 66 (Hernani) TELEPHONE 943 33 60 06 1 Jul-31 Aug: from Monday to Saturday, 10.30 am-8 pm, Sunday 10.30 am -3 pm 1 Sep-30 Jun: From Mon to Sun 10.30 am-3 pm. Closed on Tuesday (except bank holidays). Closing days: 25/12 and 1/1 Easter: from Monday of Holy Week to Easter Monday, including Tuesday: 10.30 am-7 pm Closed on 25th December and 1st January HOW TO GET THERE Bus: SS-Hernani-Andoain G2, stopping on Calle Oquendo.
22 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN EATING & DRINKING EATING & DRINKING DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 23 Eating and drinking MARKETS La Bretxa and San Martín markets display the best of local produce, the essence of San Sebastian s cuisine. A visit to these markets is a treat for the senses. San Sebastian, boasting the most Michelin stars per square kilometre in Spain, is the epicentre of Basque gastronomy The social life of its citizens revolves around its cuisine which has given rise to an entire culture based on the enjoyment of good food. Bars and restaurants serving delicious home-cooked dishes combine with internationally acclaimed establishments offering renewed flavours, aromas and texture: there is truly something for everyone. T Food preparation in the Gastronomic Society of Gaztelubide The quality of raw materials forms the base of Basque cuisine and in the markets of San Martín and La Bretxa you can find the freshest possible produce from the earth.the vegetable, meat and fish stalls, displaying produce brought directly from the orchard, the farmyard or the port are worthy of admiration.the principal Donostiarran specialities are prepared using this very produce, with fish being the star ingredient. Merluza a la koxkera (hake koxkera style), angulas (tiny eels), kokotxas al pil-pil (hake cheeks with olive oil, garlic and chillies) txangurro (spider crab) and chipirones en su tinta (tiny squid in their own ink), as well as the myriad ways of preparing bacalao (cod), are the most traditional recipes. Dishes are accompanied by txakolí, a light and fruity white wine which is made along the Guipuzcoan coast. Don t miss out on sampling some grilled sardines in the port, sardinas a la brasa, a taste experience you will never forget.the fact is that it is impossible to walk through San Sebastian without being tempted into one of its bars or restaurants.the streets breathe gastronomic culture and the sampling of pintxos an original form of tapas is a Donostiarran tradition.the bars of the Old Quarter are renowned for their pintxos although in the last few years many establishments in the Gros neighbourhood have been giving them serious competition.any bar putting these exquisite morsels on display, whether they be traditional or innovative, makes itself entirely irresistible. You may notice groups of men moving from bar to bar drinking small glasses of wine.this is the traditional poteo or txikiteo, a Basque custom which normally takes place around dusk when friends get together after work to chat and follow their own particular txikitos (small wines) route. Men are also the protagonists when it comes to a love of good food, as witnessed by the gastronomic societies. Founded in order to enjoy good cooking, members share stoves and ovens and compete to produce the most outstanding dish. One of the strangest characteristics of the societies is that women are not allowed to join, and other men who do not belong may only enter if accompanied by a member. Another typical gastronomic rite takes place in the sidrerías, or cider houses, which are open during the cider season, from January to April. Thousands of people travel to the farmhouses which produce this light apple drink to taste it directly from the kupelas, or barrels.the menu which accompanies this tasting never varies and there is no choice: you ll just have to settle for tortilla de bacalao (cod omelette), bacalao con pimientos (cod with peppers), a meaty chop and cheese with walnuts and quince.at the shout of txotx, the cider-maker opens a barrel and invites all those present to taste his cider. It s great fun! Pedro Subijana and Juan Mari Arzak (from left to right.), two of the great chefs from Donostia- San Sebastian. GOING FOR PINTXOS Pintxos, exquisite little works of culinary art, can be sampled in the bars of various parts of Donostia. You ll find the best ones in the Old Quarter, Gros, Reyes Católicos, Amara, and El Antiguo districts. EATING IN THE PORT The distinctive atmosphere of the Port is the ideal place to try such Cantabrian delicacies as merluza (hake), anchoas (anchovies), bonito (tuna), bacalao (cod), besugo (bream), txangurro (spider crab), all skilfully prepared following local culinary wisdom. THE CIDER ROUTE The cider foams into the glass from the kupela (barrel) and must be drunk immediately to properly appreciate the taste. Season: January-April
24 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN FIESTAS & FESTIVALS FIESTAS & FESTIVALS DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 25 Fiestas and Festivals During festival days, the streets fill with music and colour. The calendar is packed with fiestas whether pagan or religious, traditional or modern, winter or summer. The festivals adorn the city with culture and glamour and sporting events cause fans to burn with excitement. This is the moment to mingle with the locals and experience at first hand the Donostiarran atmosphere. TXISTORRA TASTING On December 21st the Santo Tomás Fair commemorates the day when the country folk used to come into the city to pay their taxes and sell their best produce. The tasting of talo con txistorra (maize-flour bread with fresh chorizo sausage) is almost obligatory on this date! The festive calendar is inaugurated by the popular TAMBORRADA, which takes place on January 20th, the Day of San Sebastian, the patron saint of the city.the fiesta starts on the previous night with dinners out in restaurants or gastronomic societies where the traditional dish is eels, which are increasingly difficult to find because of their exorbitant cost.at midnight the city s flag is hoisted in the Plaza de la Constitución to the rhythm of the San Sebastian march. From this moment on, the streets are filled with the beating of drums and a sense of revelry takes over the whole city for 24 hours. In the morning, hundreds of children dressed as drummers take part in the children s parade.the lowering of the flag, at midnight on January 20th, signals the end of the fiesta. February marks the celebration of CARNIVAL, the most important fiesta of the winter period. Carnival is announced by the riotous Semana Grande International Fireworks Competition TINKERS who, as the popular song goes, come from Hungary. Animated by the racket of clattering pots and frying pans, they imitate the gypsies who used to come to the city around these dates.the band of IÑUDES AND ARTZAIAS cavorting alongside (nannies and shepherds) recalls their entourage.and finally the Carnival fills the streets with colour, ushered in by the appearance of the God Momo, while Donostiarrans and visitors alike rival in the originality of their fancy dress to the sounds of the Carnival krewes, floats and the txarangas (street bands). The arrival of summer is marked by the festivities of June 23rd, the eve of the solstice, with the blessing of the Tree of St John in the Plaza de la Constitución.This is followed by a performance of the traditional Basque dance aurresku and at midnight bonfires are lit throughout the city, illuminating a magical night to mark the new season. Later on in the summer comes the principal fiesta of Donostia, the SEMANA GRANDE, which celebrates the festival of the Virgen de la Asunción (Virgin of the Assumption) and takes place throughout the whole of the week of August 15th.A packed programme of street parties, performances and cultural and sporting events fill the day. But the most incomparable event takes place that night: the International Fireworks Competition, a pyrotechnic performance of superb quality which is revered by locals and visitors alike.the THE TINKERS The tinkers are one of the most popular acts during Carnival. To the sounds of music from Sarriegui, riotous groups of gypsies bang their pots and frying pans to announce their arrival in the city. What beauty, what scenery, do we see all around us. Great city of Donostia, we greet you with great pleasure..
30 DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN WHAT SHALL WE DO TODAY? WHAT SHALL WE DO TODAY? DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIAN 31 What shall we do today? What shall we do today? The second is The Bridges route, along the banks of the Urumea and the five bridges within the urban boundaries Kursaal, Santa Catalina, María Cristina, Mundaiz and the Puente de Hierro (Iron Bridge). You could start at the first and run to the last, cross over and come back along the opposite bank. Once again, your individual capabilities must determine the distance you run. If you enjoy playing golf, you can go to either of the golf courses just outside the city Basozabal and Urdanibia where, as well as taking part in a sporting activity, you can breathe in the tranquillity of the natural surroundings. A light fish lunch rich in protein will give us the necessary strength to continue our sporting day. The afternoon is a good time for skating in the renovated Ice Palace in the Anoeta Sports Complex. This installation boasts the latest technology in ice production and energetic recovery, and you can hire skates at reasonable cost. Up-to-date music is broadcast over the rink so you can rehearse your dance routines, and there is also instruction available for the less experienced. Note that the rink is closed during summer months!. Finally, you may want to opt for the sybaritic pleasures of a session in the Thalassotherapy Centre of La Perla, one of the foremost centres in Europe. A one-and-three-quarter hour programme would be a relaxing finale to a tiring day and will reveal all the health benefits of the sea. Hydrotherapy pools, a jacuzzi with panoramic views of the bay, a thermal bath and a sauna are just some of the pleasures you can luxuriate in. 24 hours of sea The beach is a healthy option year-round, whether for strolling and enjoying its calm solitude during low season months or for sunbathing and swimming in summer. The beach is a must, whatever the time of day! If you fancy surfing, you should go to the Zurriola beach where there is a school for this activity. If you feel like swimming, La Concha and Onda-rreta beaches are quieter and you can swim out to the gabarrones (rafts) in the middle of the bay where you can rest for a while. Getting close to the sea without getting wet is a possibility, too. The Ciudad de San Sebastian boat makes a trip along the Donostiarran coastline and small boats will take you out to the island of Santa Clara (only during summer months). On the first two Sundays of September, the spectacle of the rowing regattas decorates the bay with colour and demonstrates the great sailing tradition of the city of San Sebastian. The rowing boats compete for La Concha Flag, a prize confirming the best crew on the Cantabrian. Why not share in the exhilaration its fans, who follow this sport so passionately. Our day at sea cannot come to an end without a meal in the Port. A simple dish of grilled fish, fresh shellfish or one of the coastal specialities will evoke the taste of the sea. While there, don t miss the opportunity of taking a look round the port or one of its museums the Aquarium and the Naval Museum where you can learn all about the secrets of the sea and the techniques of fishermen and navigators. On days of heavy seas, go and watch the waves crashing onto the Paseo Nuevo: a very popular form of entertainment in San Sebastian. 24 hours of performance The numerous cultural and sporting events which take place throughout the year in San Sebastian allow us to experience a day of endless fun and entertainment, especially if we coincide with one of the great events of the year, such as the Film Festival, the Jazz Festival or Semana Grande. This is when Donostia gets dressed up to party and a fantastic atmosphere is guaranteed. A visit to the hippodrome in the Zubieta neighbourhood will transport you back to the Belle Epoque years, when horse-racing was a fixture on the agenda of European royalty and aristocracy. Another spectacle which is worth attending is the bullfight, held at the modern Plaza de Toros (bullring) at Illumbe, where you can experience the art of bullfighting to the sound of pasodobles. At the Carmelo Balda frontón court you can watch a thrilling pelota match of pala and remonte (played with the pala, or racket) while at the Atano III frontón court the game is pelota a mano (played with the hands only), a Basque sport which has achieved considerable international renown. The betting, by which fans join in the competition, can get exciting! The afternoon could be more restful, visiting some of the varied exhibition halls and art galleries in the city, the majority of which are centred around contemporary art. After some shopping in the busy city centre stores, around sunset, it s time for a tour of the Old Quarter, tasting pintxos and going poteando from bar to bar! Here in the Old Quarter is where the lively Donostiarran nightlife begins, with venues to suit every taste. Let yourself be guided by the music and you won t be disappointed. Some pubs don t close their doors until the early hours. The Gran Kursaal casino, in Calle Mayor, is another option, where you can enjoy a spot of gambling. Finally, there are several discoteques in the city which are usually buzzing, some of which have terraces and vast windows overlooking the sea. PUBLISHED BY: Centro de Atracción y Turismo. Donostia-San Sebastián DESIGN AND PRODUCTION: ACC Comunicación PHOTOGRAPHY: Gonzalo Azumendi Javier Carballo Iñigo Santiago Paisajes Españoles Archivo ACC TEXTS WRITTEN BY: Idazti TRANSLATIONS: INK Catalunya PRINTED BY: ORVY 7th Edition English. August 2005