Guatemala, Belize & Yucatan La Ruta Maya a Lonely Planet travel survival kit Tom Brosnahan
r Contents INTRODUCTION.11 FACTS ABOUT THE REGION.13 History 13 People 24 Religion 31 Ecology 21 Architecture 25 Mayan Calendar System 33 Flora & Fauna 21 Culture 28 Language 36 FACTS FOR THE VISITOR 41 Suggested Itineraries 41 Electricity 50 Dangers & Annoyances 63 Documents 42 Laundry 50 Work 64 Customs 42 Weights & Measures 50 Activities 65 Money 42 Books & Maps 50 Highlights 65 Climate & When to Go 44 Media 54 Accommodation 66 What to Bring 46 Radio & TV 54 Food 67 I Festivals & Holidays 46 Film & Photography 54 Drinks 68 I Post & Telecommunications 48 Health 54 Entertainment 70 ( Time 50 Women Travellers 63 Things to Buy 70 [ GETTING THERE & AWAY 72 Air 72 Land 77 Tours 79 GETTING AROUND 80 Air 80 Car 81 Local Transport 82 Bus 80 Hitching 81 Train 81 Boat 81 1 GUATEMALA } FACTS ABOUT GUATEMALA 84 i History 85 Government 88 People 89 j Geography 87 Economy 88 ( FACTS FOR THE VISITOR 90 : Visas & Embassies 90 Business Hours 92 Dangers & Annoyances 93 Money 91 Post & Telecommunications 92 Food 94 I Climate & When to Go 92 Media 93 Getting There & Around 94 GUATEMALA CITY 95 \ History 95 Zona4 102 Places to Stay 104 Orientation 95 Zona 9 102 Places to Eat 106 Information 99 Zona 10 103 Entertainment 107 I Zona 1 101 Zona 13 103 Zona2 102 Kaminaljuyu 103 \ GUATEMALA'S HIGHLANDS.112 Antigua Guatemala 113 Los Encuentros 127 Quiche 136 Around Antigua Guatemala...124 Solola 127 Chichicastenango 137 I LagodeAtitlan 125 Solold to Panajachel 128 Santa Cruz del Quiche 142 Tecpan Guatemala 125 Panajachel 128 Nebaj 144 Iximche 125 Around Lago de Atitlan 134
SOUTH-WESTERN HIGHLANDS.145 Cuatro Caminos 145 Around Quetzaltenango 153 Todos Santos Cuchumatan 160 Totonicapdn 145 Huehuetenango 156 Quetzaltenango 146 LaMesilla 160 GUATEMALA'S PACIFIC SLOPE.162 Ciudad Tecun Uman 162 Champerico 166 Puerto San Jose\ Likfn & El Carmen 162 Mazatenango 166 Iztapa 171 Coatepeque 164 Santa Lucia Cotzumalguapa... 166 Monterrico 172 f El Zarco Junction 164 La Democracia 170 Lago de Amatitlan 172 f Retalhuleu 164 Around La Democracia 171 Around Retalhuleu 166 Escuintla 171 { CENTRAL* EASTERN GUATEMALA.173 I Salamd 173 Estanzuela 181 Lagodelzabal 197 \ Around Salama 175 Zacapa 181 The Road to Flores 197 } Biotopodel Quetzal '. 175 Chiquimula 181 Puerto Barrios 198 j Coban 176 Esquipulas 183 Livingston 202 j Around Cohan 179 Copan (Honduras) 186 j Rfo Hondo 180 Quirigua 194 j ELPETEN 205 j Flores & Santa Elena 206 Uaxactun 221 From El Pe«5n to Chiapas ; EIRemate 211 Eastwards to Belize 221 (Mexico) 223 \ Tikal 213 Sayaxcte&Ceibal 223 BELIZE FACTS ABOUT BELIZE 226 History 226 Government 229 Population & People 229 Geography 228 Economy 229 Language 230 FACTS FOR THE VISITOR 231 Visas & Embassies 231 Tourist Offices 233 Media 234 Money 232 Business Hours 233 Food 234 Climate & When to Go 232 Post & Telecommunications... 233 GETTING THERE & AROUND 235 Getting There & Away 235 Boat "235 Bus 236 Air 235 Getting Around 235 Car 237 Bus 235 Air 235 Motorbike & Bicycle 238 BELIZE CITY 240 Orientation 240 Places to Stay 243 Getting There & Away 249 Information,..240 Places to Eat 248 Getting Around 249 Walking Tour 242 Entertainment 249 THECAYES 250 Caye Caulker 250 Ambergris Caye & San Pedro 255 Other Cayes 262 NORTHERN BELIZE 263 Bermudian Landing Altun Ha & Maruba 264 Lamanai 266 Community Baboon Crooked Tree Wildlife Orange Walk 267 Sanctuary 263 Sanctuary 265 Corozal Town 269
SOUTHERN BELIZE 273 Hummingbird Highway 273 Southern Highway 276 Around Punta Gorda 283 Dangriga 273 Placencia 277 Southern Cayes 276 Punta Gorda 280 WESTERN BELIZE 285 Belize Zoo 285 Central Farm 288 Benque Viejo del Carmen 297 Banana Bank Lodge 286 San Ignacio (Cayo) 289 West to Guatemala 299 Guanacaste Park 286 Mountain Pine Ridge 293 Belmopan 286 Xunantunich 296 YUCATAN FACTS ABOUT YUCATAN 302 History 302 Government 304 People 305 Geography 303 Economy 304 FACTS FOR THE VISITOR 306 Visas & Embassies 306 Tourist Offices 309 Media : 311 Money 308 Business Hours 310 Food 311 Climate & When to Go 309 Post & Telecommunications... 310 GETTING THERE & AROUND 313 Air 313 Land 313 CANCUN & ISLA MUJERES 315 Cancun 315 IslaMujeres 327 Around Isla Mujeres 334 CENTRAL & NORTHERN YUCATAN 335 Valladolid 335 RioLagartos 341 ChichiSnltza 343 Ekbalam 339 San Felipe 342 Izamal 351 Tizimin 340 Isla Holbox 343 MERIDA 353 Around Merida 368 Progreso 369 Dzibilchaltiin 368 Celestun 371 UXMAL & THE PUUC ROUTE 372 Uxmal 374 Ticul 384 M6rida to Campeche - short Puuc Route 379 Merida to Ticul via Acanceh route (Highway 180) 387 Uxmal to Campeche 382 &Mayapan 385 CAMPECHE 388 Campeche h 389 Escarcega 395 Escarcega to Palenque 396 Around Campeche 395 Escarcega to Chetumal 395 YUCATAN'S CARIBBEAN COAST 397 Puerto Morelos (Km 328) 397 Tulum to Boca Paila & Punta Chetumal 422 Playa del Carmen 399 Allen 417 Around Chetumal 426 Cozumel 402 CobS 418 South to Belize 427 Around Isla Cozumel 409 Felipe Carrillo Puerto 420 Tulum 413 Laguna Bacalar 421
TABASCO 428 Villahermosa 428 Around Villahermosa 439 LOWLAND CHIAPAS 441 Palenque 441 Bonampak & Yaxchilan 452 Rfo Usumacinta 452 Palenque to San Crist6bal 455 HIGHLAND & PACIFIC CHIAPAS 460 Villarhermosa to Tuxtla Comitan 485 Tapachula 492 Gutierrez 460 Lagos de Montebello 488 Around Tapachula 495 Tuxtla Gutierrez 461 Motozintla 491 Talisman & Ciudad Hidalgo Around Tuxtla Gutierrez 467 Guatemalan Border - Ciudad (Guatemalan Border) 495 San Crist6bal de Las Casas 469 Cuauhtemoc 491 Around San Crist6bal 482 The Soconusco 491 GLOSSARY 497 MENU TRANSLATOR 499 INDEX *..'. 502 Maps 502 Text 502