Altitude 6,462m (21,200ft) / 22 Days / Grade 3B INTRODUCTION Bolivia s Cordillera Real has been described as the 'Himalaya of the New World' and its highest mountain, Illimani (6,462m), overlooks the highest capital city in the world, La Paz. Illimani is the emblem of the nation and your ultimate target on this expedition. Straddling the Andes, Bolivia is an unspoilt, little visited country, which boasts very high, yet easily accessible mountains. Bolivian Climber is an exciting, well-balanced itinerary, climbing four major peaks, with sections of interesting technical climbing. The expedition is particularly suitable for those who have completed several Alpine PD/PD+ routes or Grade 2 expeditions such as Mera Peak, combined with an intermediate Alpine or Scottish Winter training course, or equivalent experience. A good head for heights is needed, along with regular practice of straightforward scrambling. If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone: +44 (0) 114 276 3322 Alternatively, please email us via our website: www.jagged-globe.co.uk The adventure begins when you land on the Altiplano at 4,200m. It's where the Andes are at their widest and is the world's most extensive area of high plateau outside of Tibet. As always, we take great care to allow adequate acclimatisation so everyone enjoys the climbs feeling fit. You'll immediately descend almost 1,000m to reach your hotel in La Paz. Here, you'll relax for two nights and explore the city to ensure you've begun to acclimatise. Next, you'll return to the Altiplano to explore the highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca, and spend a few days visiting sites of the Tiahuanaco, pre-inca civilisation. A boat trip to Islay del Sol is another highlight. 1
Then, more acclimatised and ready to face the mountains, you'll enter a beautiful high mountain cirque at Condoriri. From here you'll climb Pico Austria (5,100m), Pequeño Alpamayo (5,337m) and practice glacier skills. Pequeño Alpamayo is a stunning climb along a well-defined ridge, first involving rock scrambling, then an elegant and exciting snow arête, 50 in parts, leads to the summit. After Pequeño Alpamayo, with good acclimatisation and brushed-up technical skills, you'll head for the bigger objectives of Huayna Potosi (6,094m) and Illimani (6,462m). Both mountains provide excellent glacier and snow climbing, and there's some easy ridge scrambling to reach the high camp on Illimani. The summit ridge on Huayna Potosi is not steep but it is exposed, while Illimani provides a very big summit day with a difficult section of ice climbing (50-55 ) at an altitude of nearly 6000m. Previous Bolivian Climber teams have been extremely successful. All climbers usually reach the top of at least one of the 6,000m mountains. Part of this success is attributable to our excellent Bolivian guides, who know the mountains, understand local conditions and enjoy working with Jagged Globe mountaineers. Bolivian Climber continues to be one of our most popular expeditions, balancing an action-packed programme of climbing with great times in La Paz, a culturally rich, lively and vibrant city.» Each team is led by a highly-experienced Jagged Globe leader, supported by some of the best mountain guides in Bolivia.» Jagged Globe's experience of mountaineering in Bolivia stretches back to 1983 and 1986. This was when company Director Simon Lowe first climbed there.» Building on that experience, we ve organised two or three climbing expeditions every year since 1993. We know the mountains extremely well.» We use a 1:3 ratio of leaders/guides to climbers on all summits until Illimani, when it becomes 1:2. Porters carry group equipment to the high camps. This gives greater flexibility and improves each climber's chance of reaching each summit.» We aim to offer the best standards possible. Every aspect of our trips from the quality of food to the working conditions of local porters is constantly monitored and improved.» We have a fully staffed office here in the UK. It includes mountaineers who have climbed in Bolivia on a number of occasions and are happy to answer any questions.» You can take advantage of our comprehensive equipment hire service. You'll be well equipped without having to make expensive purchases.» We try to reduce our environmental impact wherever possible. You can find out more about our practices on our website. 2
Day 1-2 Day 3 Fly to La Paz Those joining in the UK on the scheduled group flight will fly from London via Sao Paulo, arriving in La Paz the morning of Day 2. After landing at El Alto International Airport (4,200m) you'll be taken to to the hotel in the centre of La Paz. If you are joining on a land only basis, you need to arrive in La Paz on Day 2. At leisure in La Paz (3,300m) A day in La Paz (3,300m) to acclimatise, relax and discover the city, ancient and modern. La Paz rests in a natural basin 1,000m below the Altiplano. Visit the Witches' Market, the Cathedral of San Francisco, or sip coca tea to alleviate the strains of altitude. Day 4 Lake Titicaca and Copacabana (3,800m) Today you'll be driven to Copacabana (stopping for trout en route for lunch), to take in some culture while you acclimatise. It's a place of pilgrimage for South Americans, situated on the shores of Lake Titicaca. You'll climb to the Inca Gallows and Cerro Calvario (3,995m), from where you can watch the sunset dip into the lake. The hotel here is traditional, locally owned and basic. Day 5 Boat trip to Islay del Sol (4,080m) Islay del Sol was a principal shrine for the indigenous Incas and Tiahuanaco peoples of the Altiplano. A local guide will explain the significance of the island and of its close neighbour, the Moon. You'll return to Copacabana (3,800m) for the evening. Day 6 Tuni, gateway to the Condoriri mountains (4,400m) Today, you'll be driven to Tuni. Once the camp has been set up, it's a 200m hike up to the reservoir above the village, from where you'll see why this range is named the 'Condor's Mountains'. Day 7 Trek to Condoriri Base Camp (4,600m) After an early breakfast, mules and llamas will be loaded for the five hour trek to base camp - with a stop for a packed lunch break on the way. Condoriri is one of the most beautiful peaks in Bolivia and quite possibly throughout the Andes. After setting up camp in the early afternoon, you may explore the area with a walk to the glacier at 4,810m, before preparing for the next few days. Day 8 Point Austria (5,300m) Today you'll climb Point Austria, which overlooks the camp. It takes about three hours and provides magnificent views towards the main Condoriri range throughout the climb, but especially from the top. Here, you'll view the impressive Pequeño Alpamayo, the peak you'll climb in two days time. You can run back down screes to be in base camp in about two hours. Day 9 Glacier Training (4,800m) You can enjoy a restful start today before walking up to the glacier. Here, we'll run a skills workshop to refresh proficiency in roping-up for glacier travel, abseiling and, if the ice is good, some ice climbing. 3
Day 10 Rest and acclimatisation (4,600m) Today you'll stay at Condoriri base camp for a well-deserved rest before the early morning start to climb Pequeño Alpamayo. Day 11 Pequeño Alpamayo ascent (5,400m) 3:00am breakfast and you ll be away up a fine rock and snow arête to a beautiful summit. Depending on conditions and the team, we may climb true alpine style, perhaps with some sections pitched, or the guides may deploy some fixed ropes. Everyone should summit around 10am. This is probably the most technically challenging summit you'll climb. It's excellent preparation for the rigorous climbing at higher altitude yet come! You ll return to camp after enjoying the summit views. Day 12 Huayna Potosi Base Camp (4,790m) Today you'll move to the foot of Huayna Potosi, your first 6,000er. Mules and llamas carry the gear back to the road head in Tuni, where the vehicles will be waiting. You'll be driven around to Cumbre Zongo and either set up camp or stay in the climbers' hut, Refugio Casa Blanca. If staying in the hut everyone needs to be ultra-vigilant as to the risk of fire. Other groups often cook inside and there's only one way out from the upstairs dormitory. Day 13 Refugio Casa Alta Roca (5,180m) It's a steep and rocky three-hour walk to the higher Casa Alta Roca refuge, which stands on a lateral moraine. If the hut isn't available, porters will carry tents as well as food and stoves and one bag of gear will be shared between every two team members. Everyone cooks outside here but it's still wise to be careful about fire risks. You'll settle into bed when the sun and temperature drop, reminding of the altitude and close proximity of ice outside. Day 14 Huayna Potosi ascent (6,094m) You'll set off at 3am for the summit. Slopes lead to the spectacular northern ridge of the mountain. After six hours of hard work, the top rewards with a fine panorama of the Taquasi Massif: Ancohuma to the north, your next peak Illimani to the south and, in the distance, the volcano of Sajama (the highest mountain in Bolivia). You'll return to Alta Roca for a quick lunch before descending to Casa Blanca. Day 15 Rest day in La Paz/spare summit day If you climbed the mountain yesterday, you'll leave Base Camp as early as possible to get back to the city by lunchtime. You'll relax in the afternoon, shower, refresh and spend the night back in the comfort of the hotel. Day 16 Day 16 Illimani Base Camp - Puente Roto (4,460m) You'll leave around 8:30am for your main objective: Illimani. It's a four hour drive to the road head at Pinaya where you'll have lunch. Mules ease the burden and carry all the group equipment and personal loads on the two to four hour walk to Base Camp. It's steep, but you'll take it steady ready for the big climb that starts tomorrow. 4
Day 17 Illimani High Camp (5,400m) After negotiating steep moraine to a col, the crest of a rocky ridge leads to the high camp at Nido de Condores ('the Condors' Nest'). The ridge is easy when dry but very exposed in places. Under snow (which is rare), it's a challenging mountaineering day, and ropes may be needed for passages, especially for the porters who come up from the nearby village and descend in a day. We make sure they have boots for this. Day 18 Illimani Ascent (6,462m) A long hard day, but you'll be fit, acclimatised and ready for it! The snow ridge above camp leads to moderately steep slopes, then you'll reach the 'Steps to Heaven', the steepest section with 50m of 50-55 climbing. The guides may fix a rope here. The reward is the upper reaches of the mountain. In all, it takes around six hours to reach the summit ridge. Then the target is in sight, just an hour to go, and it's not technically difficult. Standing in the clear air you'll get extraordinary views along the spine of the Cordillera Real, of the jungles, of La Paz and of Titicaca. Day 19 Day 20 Spare summit day Return to La Paz Return to Base Camp and drive back to La Paz then spend the evening celebrating the climb! Day 21-22 Fly home PLEASE NOTE: Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary, but as this is Adventure Travel in a remote mountain region, we cannot guarantee it. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to changes. The expedition Leader and our local agent will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but an easy going nature will be an asset! 5
» Economy class return airfares from the UK (unless joining in-country.)» UK airport taxes.» 4 nights hotel accommodation in La Paz, on a bed and breakfast basis.» 2 nights hotel accommodation in Copacabana, on a bed and breakfast basis.» 13 nights accommodation in tents on a full-board basis.» All road transport by private vehicles.» All costs for Jagged Globe leader.» All cost for local guides and local helpers.» All porterage costs.» Jagged Globe kitbag or lightweight fleece.» Visa fees.» Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline ticket.» Extraneous hotel bills (e.g. bar and laundry).» Lunch and evening meals in La Paz.» Additional hotel nights in La Paz, if the programme is changed.» Optional sightseeing trips.» Tips. 6
The maximum team size is 12, plus Jagged Globe leader, local Bolivian guides and porters. Jagged Globe leaders are selected for their excellent personal track record of climbing at high altitudes, and their ability to successfully manage a team with differing mountaineering backgrounds. We want you to have a successful and enjoyable experience throughout and feel that in Bolivia, a Jagged Globe leader is essential to oversee safety and to ensure the smooth running of the expedition. The leader will be supported by local Bolivian guides at the following ratios: Point Austria, Pequeño Alpamayo and Huayna Potosi - 1:3, Illimani - 1:2. Our team of local porters will carry your personal gear. Bolivian Climber is graded 3B. You can read more about our Expedition Grades on our website. The route involves roped-up glacier walking with crevasse crossings, moderate rock scrambling along ridges and short sections of ice or snow up to an angle of 55 following snow crests. To join the expedition and have a good chance of success, you must have:» Climbed with ice axe and crampons on Scottish Grade II climbs, Alpine PD/PD+ or equivalent, along with experience of scrambling on exposed rocky terrain.» A good level of fitness, having prepared for the expedition with regular hill walking throughout the months preceding the trip, including Grade I scrambles. As mules or porters carry the tents and food, there is no heavy load carrying on the expedition but team members should expect to carry only their personal equipment of 10 to 12 Kg. Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses would provide good skills training for this expedition. You can find out more about these on our website. Having a solid base of fitness prior to departing on the expedition will give you the best chance of reaching the summit and enjoying it along the way. There are many different ways to train the body and it is important to choose the correct method. Climbing 6,000m peaks in Bolivia requires that you to have a high level of endurance. Training for endurance means developing the aerobic energy system in your body. Essentially your objective is to train the energy production systems to meet the demands of the activity for as long as required. For Bolivia this means consecutive tough days whilst acclimatising before even tougher summit days. In order to better advise you, we asked Steve House and Scott Johnston, authors of the authoritative book, Training for the New Alpinism, for their advice. Our Kit List and Trip Information document, which you receive once you have booked, has some general training advice in it from Steve and Scott. Additionally you can 7
purchase an 8 week, 16 week or 24 week training programme via the website: http://www.uphillathlete.com An expedition is a complete adventure and the culmination of training; it is the time to put learning into practice. We might rehearse, and refresh, but the objectives will be the summits we climb, the paths we trek, or the slopes we ski. As a team member, you will be with likeminded people, all seeking adventure and the camaraderie that people share when facing challenges together. You should be technically competent, so please check you meet the pre-trip requirements before booking. Whether climbing, trekking or skiing, the expedition will broaden your experience and deepen your knowledge; for example, by reaching new altitudes, by extending yourself technically and physically or by coping with extreme conditions. All the time, you will revel in the simple thrill of being among the mountains and enjoying the cultures encountered en route. Fundamental to this, will be the chance to make new friends along the way. Jagged Globe expeditions are not 'guided' or 'instructed', as our courses are, but 'professionally-led'. An expedition comprises a team leader (appointed by Jagged Globe), team members (you) and local guides (recruited in-country for their local knowledge). Our expeditions are well resourced and equipped, to ensure the objectives can be met. The leader will set the tone and the overall parameters for the conduct of the trip. The leader will ensure that every opportunity is taken to fulfil the objectives described in the trip's itinerary, whilst not slavishly being bound by it. The leader will establish a framework of safety, and engender a positive attitude towards ensuring a safe outcome. As a team member, you are responsible for your own participation, especially in those activities that are hazardous by nature. We look to you to be mindful of risks at all times and to use your initiative, common sense and previous experience to face up to them and to reduce them where possible. Local guides possess the detailed local knowledge we need to achieve our goals. Local guides are not sent to 'Guide', as is now understood when climbing in the Alps with a European-Certified Guide, but to act in the more traditional sense as pathfinders and helpers. We like our expedition teams to operate within an envelope of mutual support and trust, and the leader will work to build this as the trip progresses. This acknowledges that everyone on the team (the leader, yourself and the local staff) has a contribution to make in helping towards the safe outcome of the venture you are participating in, proportionate to each person's knowledge and experience. 8
Jagged Globe offers pre-trip weekends for all expeditions and treks. The pre-trip weekend is a key element of your trek or expedition. You do not have to be booked onto a trip to attend a weekend, so it s the perfect opportunity to meet us and find out more about Jagged Globe. The pre-trip weekend provides team members with important information and skills that will enhance your experience of the trip. It is a chance to meet other team members, should they be attending, as well as giving you the opportunity to meet our office team, visit our specialist equipment shop and try on any hire equipment you may need. Normally a number of different teams meet over the weekend. The Saturday is based in and around Sheffield with presentations on personal equipment, dealing with altitude, expedition safety and staying healthy. In the evening there will be a meal and social gathering to get to know others on your trip. On Sunday we will go outdoors to the nearby Peak District. The activity will be focused on your trip. This will be a walk, scramble or rock climbing sessions using fixed rope and abseiling, if appropriate, at a nearby crag. The weekends are free to attend and are normally scheduled 6 8 weeks prior to your trip departure date. If you are booked onto a trip confirmed dates will be enclosed with your Booking Confirmation email. If you have yet to book a place on a trip, please email us to enquire about a suitable pre-trip weekend date. To book a place we will need to know at least 10 days beforehand. We look forward to meeting you at the weekend. Programme Day Time Activity Saturday 9.30am Meet at Jagged Globe. Introductions, tea/ coffee. Personal kit and equipment. Avoiding altitude illness. Looking after yourself on expedition. 12.30pm 1pm 5pm Lunch, please bring a packed lunch (there are nearby shops if you forget) Drive out of town for practical sessions e.g. Roping up for glacier travel, using fixed rope, abseiling, rock scrambling and remote camping skills. Return to Jagged Globe. Saturday 7-10pm Meet at a pre- booked venue for dinner followed by a 9
evening presentation about your trip. Sunday 9am Meet at Jagged Globe. Drive out to the Peak District for a whole day activity. A chance to break in boots and test waterproofs. 4pm Weekend finishes. Take kit bags or fleeces and any hire kit away with you. Please note that you will need normal UK hill walking equipment including packed lunch, boots, waterproofs and insulating layers. Some options may include: Grade 1 Trekking, e.g. Everest Base Camp Bleaklow Head from Doctor s Gate. 400m ascent and descent. 8km walk over heather moorland taking in steep slopes in ascent and descent with a visit to a crashed aircraft on the way. Grade 1 Trekking peak, e.g. Kilimanjaro Lemosho Glades Kinder Scout from Edale. 730m of ascent and descent. 10km walk over paths and rough moorland taking in Ringing Roger and Woolpacks on the way. Grade 2, Semi technical trekking peak, e.g. Mera Peak Kinder Scout Plateau via Blackden Brook. 350m of ascent and descent. 9km of steep walking with some steep scrambling on route. Descent via Fairbrook Naze. Grade 3/4, Technical expedition, e.g. Bolivian Climber/ Alpamayo A day s single pitch rock climbing. Climbing on one of the 150 crags in the Sheffield area looking at movement skills, abseiling, free hanging jumar use and crevasse rescue. Getting here Jagged Globe is located close to Sheffield city centre. We are around 15-20 mins walking distance from Sheffield railway and Interchange Coach stations. We are located next to The Foundry Climbing Centre in the Kelham Island area of the city. There is free car parking within the Foundry Climbing Centre car park as well as ample on street parking. Accommodation There is lots of hotel accommodation in Sheffield, however the following hotels are within easy walking distance of Jagged Globe HQ. Holiday Inn. 4 Star, Victoria Station Rd, Sheffield S4 7YE. Stately redbrick property with an elegant restaurant and a lounge bar. Approximately 50 a night. 500m away. Hampton by Hilton. 3 Star, West Bar Green, Sheffield, S1 2DA. Set in a former police station, this new urban hotel is centrally located with free Wi-Fi and breakfast. Approximately 50 a night. 600m away. Mercure Sheffield St Paul's Hotel and Spa. 4 Star, 119 Norfolk St, Sheffield, S1 2JE. Adjacent to the city's Winter Gardens, amenities include a modern British restaurant with a glass ceiling and city-view dining, plus a chic champagne bar. There's also a spa with a heated indoor pool. Approximately 80 a night. 1400m away. 10
A complete equipment is sent to you on booking. Our equipment hire service includes plastic boots, down jacket and down sleeping bag. If you have any questions, please get in touch. We can organise this expedition on a 'tailor-made' private basis for groups such as families, clubs or charities. Depending on your mountaineering experience, you might require a Jagged Globe leader or prefer to go 'self-led' with assistance from local guides. The cost of going private can be surprisingly reasonable, particularly self-led options. Please contact us to discuss the itinerary and preferred dates. We will put together a noobligation quote. Climb, Trek, Ski Ltd (trading as Jagged Globe) is a fully licenced and bonded tour operator. The air holidays and flights shown on our website are ATOL Protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Protection extends primarily to customers who book and pay in the United Kingdom. This means if you book your expedition package with Jagged Globe, including international flights from the UK, your payments are covered by our ATOL Licence. Please visit the ATOL website to find out more. If you would like to book a place on this expedition, you can do so securely on our website, over the phone or by sending in a booking form by post. A deposit secures a place on your chosen departure. You will initially receive an automated email acknowledging that your booking has been received. We will then confirm your booking in writing and send you a receipt for the deposit, an invoice for the final balance, ATOL certificate and equipment list. You will be given an account on a secure area of the Jagged Globe website, where you can complete other essential administration relating to the trip. Book Now: http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/climb/exp/i/bolivian+climber.html 11