1 FMC Travel Club A subsidiary of Federated Mountain Clubs of New Zealand (Inc.) www.fmc.org.nz Club Convenor : John Dobbs Travel Smart Napier Civic Court, Dickens Street, Napier 4140 P : 06 8352222 F : 06 8354211 E : john@tsnapier.co.nz Exploration of an isolated and unexplored corner the starkly fascinating medieval Himalayan Kingdom of Mustang 16 th May to 1 st June 2015, 17 days $3995 ex Kathmandu. Led by Dawa of Adventure Thamserku Based on a minimum group of 7 participants and subject to currency fluctuations Costs calculated in April 2014 and subject to revision. Any payments by visa or mastercard adds $100 per person PRICE INCLUDES : Accommodations twin share in hotels (3 nights) and basic lodges (13 nights) Services of a highly experienced Adventure Thamserku guide/leader, and porters Most meals breakfast in Kathmandu and Pokhara and all meals while trekking (16 breakfasts, 13 lunches, 13 dinners) Adventure Thamserku trek pack (down sleeping bag, down jacket, trekking maps, kit bag) Annapurna Conservation Area entry permit, Mustang restricted area permit, group first aid kit, portable altitude chamber (PAC), insurance for local staff Four internal flights and all return airport transfers Payment to FMC PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE : International flights Nepal entry visa and crew tips Travel insurance Other meals in Kathmandu and Pokhara, spending of a personal nature such as internet, souvenirs etc
2 Overview This is a 13 day trek rated as moderate, comprising 11 days in the restricted area and 2 days outside the restricted area. The highest elevation gained is 3880m. The remote and once forbidden Kingdom of Mustang is tucked away, lying just north of the main Himalayan range. Mustang, a land where the soul of the man is still considered to be as real as the feet he walks on : a land apparently barren, but where beauty and happiness abound in spite of hardship, was a part of the Tibetan Kingdom of Gungthang until the 1830 s. The walled city of Lo Manthang, unofficial capital of Mustang, still remains a kingdom within a kingdom. The early history of Lo Manthang is embellished in myth and legend rather than recorded fact. Mustang maintained its status as a separate principality until 1951. The King of Lo Manthang still retains his title and has been given the honorary rank of Colonel in the Nepal army. In recent times, a limited number of trekkers are allowed in each year in order to protect and conserve the local Tibetan traditions and the fragile environment. A trek into this fabled forbidden kingdom of vast, arid ochre valleys, eroded canyons, yak caravans, colourfully painted mud brick houses with the backdrop of majestic mountains (Nilgri 7061m, Annapurna 8091m and Dhaulagiri 8167m among others) all combine to make your Mustang trek a very special one. For anyone on a first trip to Nepal, trekking in complementary areas, such as the Annapurnas and Everest region is highly recommended. A total contrast is the wonderful Chitwan National Park down near the Indian border, where elephant treks through the jungle, interpretive walks and dugout canoe trips are part of the experience. Adventure Thamserku have a number of bolt on trip modules to these places that can be added to your trip please enquire if you are interested in making your trip more complete in this way. Some examples : www.adventurethamserku.com/trips/jungle-safari-in-nepal.html www.adventurethamserku.com/trips/everest-scenic-flight.html Extra days spent in and around Kathmandu can be extremely rewarding and interesting and so are also recommended. Trip Leader Dawa Geljen Sherpa Adventure Thamserku Treks & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. G.P.O. Box 8121, Kathmandu, Nepal Telephone: +9771 620 2614, 207 0412 Tel/Fax: +9771 482 0711 Email: dawa@adventurethamserku.com / lukla@mos.com.np Web: www.adventurethamserku.com www.classroomsintheclouds.org Qualifications: Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) -Mountain Guide Hotel Management & Tourism Training Centre (HMTTC) - Trek Organisation & Leadership Dawa heads the Adventure Thamserku operation. A qualified mountaineering guide, Dawa has been leading treks and expeditions for over 30 years. He has also been instrumental in organizing the on ground arrangements for a number of FMC Travel Club trips to Nepal over the years. Over that time, Dawa and his team have been outstanding in their roles, are totally competent and trustworthy, and along the way have made many NZ friends. Born in Lukla, Dawa has an impressive climbing record in the Himalaya, having been on expeditions to Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam amongst others. He is extremely highly regarded by clients, peers and staff alike. A popular and in-demand leader, Dawa conducts most of the mountaineering trips himself, and prides himself on handpicking skilled, knowledgeable and experienced staff for all other treks, to ensure the success of each one and the enjoyment of each participant. His English is fluent and idiomatic, and he enjoys the social interaction with his clients. Being a local, Dawa has extensive knowledge of the areas we trek through, and friends and relatives all along the way. You will be assured of a warm welcome and have the opportunity to make personal contact with the Sherpa community and the projects that Dawa is involved in. Below is a picture of Dawa with a backdrop of the Himalayas.
3
4 Itinerary Day 1. Sat 16 th May. Kathmandu (1360m) Arrival into Kathmandu and transfer to the Hotel Tibet International www.hoteltibetintl.com.np A pre-trek briefing from Dawa in the late afternoon. He will discuss the trekking program and co-ordinate any last-minute arrangements. The evening is free but usually everyone goes out for dinner at one of Kathmandu's fine restaurants. Day 2. Sun 17 th May. Pokhara (820m) We take the short but scenic 30 minute flight to Pokhara, enjoying the mountain views. Pokhara is a delightful town on the shores of Phewa-tal Lake. B. Day 3. Mon 18th May. Fly to Jomsom (2720m) and trek to Kagbeni (2780m) 3 4 hours walking We take the spectacular early morning flight to Jomsom where we will be met at the tiny airstrip by our trek crew. After some initial preparation of loads, we begin our trek to the pretty village of Kagbeni. Just out of Jomsom we cross a small hanging bridge and then walk along the riverbank of the Kali Gandaki. The trail is quite barren with craggy rocks and sand and is mostly flat, which makes it very easy going. It's also very picturesque, with views of big peaks all around such as Dhaulagiri, Tukuche and Nilgiri, whilst to the south can be seen the entire Annapurna Massif. Kagbeni provides us with a taste of scenes to come in upper Mustang, with its narrow alleyways and tunnels, irrigation canals, green fields of wheat and barley and a large red gompa. At the police check-post at the north end of the village, there is a sign saying "Restricted area, tourists please do not go beyond this point". Here we will complete our paperwork before entering this long forbidden region of Nepal. B.L.D. Day 4. Tue 19 th May. Trek to Chhuksang (2980m) approx 5-6 hours walking It is possible to trek right up the river valley, but we use a combination of the high trail and the riverbank pathways. The trail then widens significantly revealing an endless stretch of sand but the path is kept interesting by the passing of mule trains bearing goods from Mustang and Tibet. On the west bank of the river are some caves and Gompa Kang. Unlike most monasteries in Upper Mustang which are of the Sakyapa sect, Gompa Kang is of the Nyingmapa sect. We stop for lunch at the village of Tangbe, where we come across the first black, white and red chortens that typify Upper Mustang. The little town is a labyrinth of narrow alleys among white washed houses, fields of buck wheat and barley and apple orchards. Nilgiri Peak continues to dominate the southern skyline. Chhuksang village is only about 2hrs walk beyond Tangbe at the confluence of the Narshing Khola and the Kali Gandaki. There are three separate parts to this village and some ruined castle walls on the surrounding cliffs. Across the river from Chhuksang are some spectacular red organ pipe eroded cliffs above the mouths of some inaccessible caves. B.L.D. Day 5. Wed 20 th May. Trek to Samar (3290m) 5 hours walking There is a distinct change here, not only in the topography, but also in the culture, lifestyle and people, and the settlements become more scattered, smaller and more basic. The people of Lo or Mustang do practice agriculture, but because of the lack of rain and fertile soil, cultivation is in sheltered plots of land, scattering the brown landscape with patches of green. Continuing north we reach a huge red chunk of conglomerate that has fallen from the cliffs above, forming a tunnel through which the river flows. A steel bridge spans the river just in front of the tunnel and north of here the Kali Gandaki becomes impassable on foot. The trek now leaves the valley and climbs steeply up a rocky gully to the village of Chele. Watch out here for the ferocious Tibetan mastiffs which are chained to many of the houses. From Chele we climb a steep spur and then continue ascending along the side of a spectacular steep canyon to a pass. Beyond the pass we descend on a pleasant trail to Samar, situated in a grove of poplar trees. This is a major stopping place for horse and mule caravans. B.L.D. Day 6. Thu 21 st May. Trek to Geling (3440m) 5 6 hours walking We climb above Samar to a ridge and then descend into a large gorge past a chorten before entering another valley filled with juniper trees. We then cross a stream and after climbing to a pass, we descend along a ridge to Shyangmochen a tiny settlement with a few tea shops. Nearby is Rangbyung, a cave containing stalagmites which have formed in the shape of chortens and one of the holiest places in Mustang. The trail climbs gently from Shyangmochen and we enter
another huge valley before descending to Geling with its extensive fields of barley. As in all the settlements of Mustang, the white and ochre-painted houses are constructed using mud and stones, with roofs made of twigs, straw and a mixture of mud and pebbles. B.L.D. Day 7. Fri 22 nd May. Trek to Ghami (3460m) 4 hours walking From Geling the trail climbs gently through fields, up the center of the valley, passing above the settlement of Tama Gun and an imposing chorten. We then begin a taxing climb across the head of the valley to the Nyi La [3840m]. The descent from the pass is quite gentle and about half an hour further on we come to a trail junction; the right trail is the direct route to Charang, the left trail leads to Ghami - a large white-washed village sheltered by overhanging cliffs. B.L.D. Day 8. Sat 23 rd May. Trek to Charang (3490m) 4 hours walking Today's walk is through perhaps the driest part of Mustang, and much of our energy will be spent negotiating loose, dry soil. However, the magnificent views of the countryside, from the gentle contours of the north to the rugged mountains in the east and west, are a source of inspiration. Finally, we come to Charang, a large spread-out village at the top of the Charang Chu canyon. At the eastern end of the village is a huge dzong [fortress] and a red gompa which houses an excellent collection of statues and thangkas. B.L.D. Day 9. Sun 24 th May. Trek to Lo Manthang (3810m) 4 5 hours walking We will spend part of the morning exploring the interesting village of Charang and its large monastery, before setting out for Lo Manthang. We climb gently above the valley to a large isolated chorten that marks the boundary between Charang and Lo. The trail then broadens and eventually we get our first view of the walled city of Lo Manthang. The city has only one entrance so we circumambulate the wall to the gate on the north east corner. B.L.D. Day 10. Mon 25 th May. Rest and recreation in Lo Manthang Today is free to explore the fascinating city of Lo Manthang. The city contains about 150 houses, as well as residences for its many lamas. There are four major temples within the city and one of these, Champa Lhakang, contains a huge clay statue of Buddha as well as elaborate mandalas painted on the walls. The king's palace is an imposing building in the center of the city and is occupied by the current King and Queen. Although his duties are largely ceremonial, the King is respected by the people and consulted about many issues by villagers throughout the kingdom. B.L.D. Day 11. Tue 26 th May. Trek to Dhakmar (3820m) approx 8 hours walking We begin our return journey from Lo Manthang, taking the upper highland route. This highland route offers dramatic views of Lo Manthang and the Charang Valley, with snow clad peaks in the background. Gradually we say goodbye to the Lo Manthang plain and after about 2 3 hours there is no sign at all that such a gem of a city is concealed in one of those rocky valleys. In front of us the mass of the Himalayas reappears and we negotiate the highest pass, Marang La at 4230m. We stop for lunch at Ghat Gumba, the oldest monastery of Upper Mustang, with time to visit the monastery. We cross alpine meadows before dropping down a steep eroded gully to Dhakmar. Above the village are numerous caves, but their entrances are only accessible to rock climbers. At the entrance to the canyon is an unusual looking chorten the top looks like a bush because of the hundreds of prayer flags woven into it. Around the chorten are hundreds of erected stones. B.L.D. Day 12. Wed 27 th May. Trek to Shyangboche (3800m) approx 6 hours walking With Nilgiri visible again, we walk past more caves on our way south and then there is a gradual hill climb bringing us above Ghami, where we can see the town, the long Mani wall and the pass we climbed five days ago! There are two more passes to cross and splendid views of the Annapurna range. Next we reach Jhaite (3820m), at the fork between Gheling and Shyangboche. We can detour to Cchunggar, with two Gompas built above the village and a small but fine monastery. Later we rejoin the regular path to Shyangboche. B.L.D. 5
Day 13. Thu 28 th May. Trek to Chhuksang (2980m) approx 7 hours walking The direct trail to Samar runs high above the canyons and with each side valley we cross, the Annapurna range appears closer and closer. Parts of this section of the trek are quite tough going because of the gorges, but the compensation is the brilliant views of Tilicho and Nilgiri. As the mountains start to appear higher and higher and the vegetation increases there is also a great contrast with the walls of ice.. Such subtle variations in colour after the moonscape bleakness are a refreshing change.we cross two deep valleys before taking a lunch break at Samar and then the second part of the day is a relatively easy downhill walk. When Gyakar appears, the route becomes more spectacular, running high above the gorge. We can take a break in Chaile and then we arrive at the riverbed of the Kali Gandaki region and reach Chhuksang. B.L.D. Day 14. Fri 29 th May. Trek to Muktinath (3760m) or Kagbeni (2810m) To Muktinath is 6 7 hours walking and to Kagbeni is 4 5 hours approx The ascent to a plateau is steep and the trial here can be rather difficult to locate. There is an easy walk over a plain, after which come about 3 hours of steep walking uphill, with the narrow trail getting precipitous at time, with loose black gravel. After ascending high in the valley the trail makes a right turn and the pass becomes visible above. At the pass, the mountains seem amazingly close, with Thorung Pass although the lowest peak, looking particularly impressive, having large glaciers clinging to its steep flanks. Tilicho is covered by snow with indented glaciers, while the summit of Annapurna further back does not seem as high as its 8000m+. Even Nilgiri s almost sheer north face is also covered by glaciers. It is a moderate walk down to Muktinath, with stunning views of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Their summits are only 34kms apart, which account for the tremendous depth of the Kali Gandaki valley. Getting to Muktinath involves crossing another valley, which takes some time. The sporadic houses start to become more numerous as we get nearer Muktinath. At the end of the day we can make a brief visit to the temple of Muktinath which is worshipped by both Hindus and Buddhists. The temple premise has 108 stone spouts from where holy water comes throughout the day. Alternatively, retrace back to Kagbeni for a shorter day. B.L.D. Day 15. Sat 30 th May. Trek to Jomson (2720m) From Muktinath to Jomson is 5 6 hours and from Kagbeni to Jomson is approx 3 hours After the short descent in the morning you will find yourself in Jharkot and Khingar, where there are beautiful monasteries which give you the opportunity to witness the interrelation and similarity of Tibet to this area. The view of Dhauligiri and Nilgiri is splendid throughout the trail. We will walk past Kagbeni to reach Jomsom along the banks of the Kali Gandaki River. We can spend some time exploring the headquarters of the Mustang district, Jomsom. It s time now for a nice hot shower and a celebration in the evening with the sherpas and porters we have come to know so well over the last 13 days. B.L.D. Day 16. 31 st May. Flights to Pokhara and return to Kathmandu A spectacular 30 min moring flight to Pokhara and then connecting flight back to Katmandu. You will be met at the airport and taken to the Hotel Tibet International. The afternoon is free for shopping, sightseeing or just lounging around the hotel. Dinner again will be at one of Kathmandu s sensational restaurants enjoy an end of trip celebration! B. Lunch and dinner is not included. Day 17. 1 st June. Final day If you are leaving Nepal today, we will transfer you back to Kathmandu Airport after breakfast. Or perhaps you are staying on to head down to Chitwan, or begin other trekking adventures in Nepal. B. 6 General Notes Although altitude gain and acclimatization are built in, your safety and health is paramount. A specialized medical kit and satellite phone for emergencies are provided and Dawa goes one better with a portable altitude chamber as well. These items are carried by the support team. You are expected to carry your own medication needs and first aid kit. A gear list will be supplied later on, along with other pertinent items, in an all person pre-trip newsletter.
A list of any recommended inoculations and medicines if applicable will also be provided. Always consult your health professional, consider information about Nepal as supplied on the website www.thetraveldoctor.co.nz and do not rely solely on our information to you. It is essential that you advise full details of any special medical conditions when registering for this trip. There are no particular travel warnings for Kiwis to Nepal (as at April 2014). You will get an entry visa for touristic purposes on arrival into Kathmandu International Airport and we will advise up to date costs and what you need to provide later on. Note that we are also securing the specialized entry permits for everyone to the Mustang area and normally a supply of passport size photos is needed for the visa and for such permits. An intrinsic part of trekking in Nepal is the service provided by keen young Nepalese offering guiding and porterage services, which provides much needed employment and income. On this trip, Dawa will have a team who fill this supporting role admirably. This means you will only need to carry a day pack with your essential for that day, personal valuables, camera, water bottle and so on. It is customary to tip your trip leader and the support staff. We will provide more information around tipping and such protocols within the pre-trip newsletter. Often a sherpa/porter after trek party is held and many people like to donate some items of clothing or even equipment. Such items are always humbly received and are part of the process of outfitting these wonderful people. Having a good quality travel insurance policy to cover your trip to Nepal is essential and must not be compromised on. Full medical evacuation and repatriation are essential components of coverage. We are able to offer you a discount on the standard QBE Leisure International policy cost and an application and policy wording can be emailed. This policy fully covers the aspects of your trip. 7
8 Booking Conditions : FMC Travel Club and Travel Smart Napier 1. The FMC Travel Club (FMC) offers this small group trip in conjunction with Travel Smart Napier (TSN). All travel arrangements are made with TSN. Participants agree to all terms and conditions by signing the Registration Form. 2. FMC and TSN are not responsible or liable for any injury, damage, loss, accident, delay or irregularity which may arise from weather, defect in any vehicle, vessel or aircraft, of through the acts or default of any person or company engaged in carrying out any of the arrangements of the trip. 3. We reserve the right to cancel the trip if minimum numbers don t eventuate. In such an event, all monies paid will be fully refunded. We also reserve the right to make any modifications that may be essential, or to offer a modified trip to a smaller number of people. 4. The trip includes a payment to FMC. 5. Registrations are accepted in good faith on a first comers basis on receipt of the Registration Form. The deposit is $1000 per person. Registrations close by 31 st January 2015 (or earlier if the trip fills earlier) and final balance is due by 28 th February 2015. All payments may be made by cash, cheque, EFTPOS, internet banking, visa or mastercard to the offices of TSN. All or any payments by visa or mastercard adds $100 to the final trip price. Our preferred method of payment is internet banking. Please use : 010685 0151601 00 at ANZ Napier. Heerlen Ltd T/A Travel Smart Napier (with a covering email). Please make cheques payable to Travel Smart Napier. 6. Arrangements are made in other currencies, so subject to fluctuations. Events beyond our control such as currency fluctuations or any unforeseen additional costs may affect the overall trip price. We cannot guarantee the price until such times as full payment has been received. Upon full payment, the trip price is guaranteed. 7. Cancellations. If you need to cancel your registration for any reason, you must advise TSN in writing as soon as possible. An email is OK, a phone call alone is not. Travel insurance will cover you for unforeseen circumstances but will not cover you for changing your mind after committing to the trip. Cancellation fees apply as follows : Cancellations received from 1 st to 28 th February 2015 incur a fee of $1000. Cancellations received from 1 st March 2015 onwards incur a fee of 100% of trip costs. If you find a suitable replacement person, the above cancellation fees MAY be waived. 8. Travel insurance is mandatory. We recommend QBE Travel Insurance and a brochure/application by email or post is available any time, just ask. You will receive a special FMC discount on the premium. Details of any travel insurance other than QBE must be provided before departure.
9 Registration Form for Mustang the Forbidden Wall Kingdom 2015 : Complete and send to John Dobbs at TSN with a passport copy. Registrations close by 31 st January 2015 (or earlier of the trip fills earlier). So your earliest commitment is appreciated. All or any payments by visa or mastercard adds $100 to the final trip price. Our preferred payment method is internet banking into : 010685 0151601 00 at ANZ Napier. Heerlen Ltd T/A Travel Smart Napier (with covering email please). Your full name(s) as per passport(s) and please underline or highlight your preferred first name(s).. Mailing address. Day phone.night phone Mobile.. Email.Date(s) of birth.. Specify any dietary requirements, allergies or medical conditions Tramping club affiliation (if any). Please detail your recent tramping experiences.. Contact person in NZ for any emergencies : name, address, contact phone numbers, email and the relationship to you. In the event of any emergency, this is the sole person you are authorizing us to liaise with I/We have read the full trip dossier and I / We enclose the per person deposit of $1000. I / We agree to pay the remainder of trip costs by due date, as advised by invoice. I / We understand that the final trip price is subject to minimum numbers and other cost impacts as detailed under the Booking Conditions section; therefore the final trip price cannot be guaranteed until such times as full payment has been made..signed and dated by each person registering Send to : John Dobbs, FMC Travel Club Convenor Travel Smart Napier. Civic Court, Dickens Street, Napier 4140. P : 06 8352222 F : 06 8354211 E : john@tsnapier.co.nz
10