SYRIA & JORDAN: Crossroads of civilisations 4 24 October 2010 For thousands of years, Syria and Jordan controlled the inland caravan routes along which goods were transported from the Orient to the Mediterranean. From the Nabataeans in their stronghold at the rose-red city of Petra to the merchants in the bustling markets of Aleppo, the region has a rich and fascinating history, having been inhabited over time by several civilisations, each of which has left its individual mark.
OVERVIEW OF THE ITINERARY This 21-day tour is designed as an introduction to the rich history and archaeology of Syria and Jordan. Along with both guided and individual exploration of millennia-old sites showcasing the region s historical splendour, we experience the fascinating contemporary landscape and cultures of the area. We spend one night at an eco lodge in a nature reserve in Jordan, walk in the footsteps of St Paul through the streets of Damascus and, in keeping with the mercantile heritage of the area, haggle for a bargain in the modern-day hustle and bustle of the markets of Aleppo. Throughout our journey we mingle with the local people, whose generosity and hospitality are legendary. TOUR HIGHLIGHTS Visit the ruins of Crac des Chevaliers, described by Lawrence of Arabia as the most admirable castle in the whole world Wander through the timeless souks of Damascus and Aleppo Soak up the evocative atmosphere of the great caravan city of Palmyra - bride of the desert Discover the fascinating archaeological site of Pella, site of Australian excavations for over 30 years YOUR TOUR LEADER Dr John Tidmarsh is president of the University of Sydney s Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation, and a former lecturer in the Department of Archaeology. He is also co-director of the University s excavations at Pella in Jordan, and a member of the ANU/University of Melbourne excavations at Jebel Khalid in Syria. He has led numerous tours to Oman, Iran, Turkey, Syria, Jordan and other countries in the eastern Mediterranean. Spend a night in the haunting landscape of Wadi Feynan Gaze in awe at the wonders of Petra - the rose-red city half as old as time
HOW MUCH DOES THE TOUR COST? Land only: (ex Damascus) $7,995 per person (based on twin-share accommodation) $1,990 single supplement for single room Getting there and back If you require assistance with flights and additional arrangements not included in the land cost, please contact the Travel Coordinator, Lissa Sharp, (02) 9036 4766, e-mail l.sharp@usyd.edu.au. Subject to exchange rate fluctuations and the number of people on the tour, the price may vary. You will be notified immediately of any changes. The land costs are based on a minimum of 10 tour participants. A deposit of $500 per person is required to reserve a place on the tour. The deposit is fully refundable for cancellations made more than 120 days before departure. The full balance is due 60 days before departure. What is included in the land tour cost? All breakfasts, 12 lunches, 16 dinners 4- to 5- star accommodation in selected hotels One night in an a eco lodge 1 While on tour, ground transportation by airconditioned coach (bottled water on board is included) Excursions including admission to all sites and museums mentioned in the itinerary Services of tour leader, Dr John Tidmarsh, from Damascus (4 October) to Amman (24 October) Services of professional English-speaking guides on tour Group tips to drivers and guides Porterage (one piece per person) for group arrivals at and group departures from hotels Tour notes, pre-departure meeting and buffet dinner in Sydney One year s subscription to NEAF What is not included in the land cost? Travel insurance (this is a requirement) Visa costs (if required) Meals and activities not mentioned in the itinerary, or listed as optional Tips for individual services Personal expenses, such as laundry, phone and fax bills and other incidentals 1 For further details, please refer to Additional Information at the end of this document
DETAILED ITINERARY Meals included in itinerary Breakfast (B) Lunch (L) Picnic Lunch (PL) Dinner (D) Monday 4 October: Arrival Damascus Check in to the hotel in Damascus. Overnight: Damascus. Tuesday 5 October: Damascus Damascus is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world and few cities can match the sense of excitement one feels when wandering its streets. In a way it seems familiar, so often have you heard its name, yet the reality of the city is a combination of modern chaos and historical majesty. When in the old city, wooden Ottoman style houses lean out to touch each other above the passageways, Roman Corinthian columns are used to shore up the wall of the Umayyad Mosque, a quiet almost medieval street suddenly becomes a main road where you must squeeze yourself against a wall to avoid the cars. Clash and contradiction, and among it all, a thousand shops selling silks, rugs, perfumes, chocolates and any other piece of merchandise ever devised by humans. We begin today by visiting the 1,300-year-old Umayyad Mosque located in the heart of the Old City and finish at the National Museum that houses some of Syria s archaeological treasures, some from sites that we visit in the next ten days. Highlights of the museum are the mural-covered synagogue from Dura Europos, the reconstructed Hypogeum of Yarhai from Palmyra, and a range of beautiful statues and other treasures from Mari and Ugarit. Tonight we enjoy our welcome dinner. Overnight: Damascus. (B, D) Wednesday 6 October: Crac des Chevaliers and Hosn Suleiman Driving north we visit the most well-preserved Crusader castle in the world - Crac des Chevaliers. We climb up to the heights of the castle with its panoramic views and walk in the moat between massive walls of stone. In echoing pillared halls you can almost imagine the knights at work and those of good voice can check out the acoustics of the Crusader chapel. Later we visit nearby Hosn Suleiman, an enigmatic and largely unexplored sanctuary located in an idyllic setting amongst the coastal mountains. Finally we arrive in Hama, beautifully sited on the Orontes River and famous for its still functioning norias (water-wheels). Overnight: Hama. (B, PL, D) Thursday 7 October: Apamea, Serjilla and Ebla Today we set out for the legendary city of Aleppo. Our first stop en route is the beautifully located Graeco-Roman city of Apamea where extensive classical remains survive, still overlooking the fertile plains that brought the city prosperity. Our second stop is Serjilla, one of Syria s finest Dead Cities. The cities date to the prosperous Byzantine period when increased demand encouraged lavish agricultural development in what is fairly marginal land. A combination of plagues, depressed agricultural prices, and decreasing soil fertility spelled the end for these cities which were largely abandoned. Today the skeletons of the Byzantineperiod buildings still rise from the fields and olive plantations, giving us an evocative taste of an epoch long vanished. Finally we visit the expansive Bronze Age ruins of Ebla, a site that is unique in many respects: for an ancient site it is well preserved and its location, free of modern clutter, is spectacular. As is clear from its massive defensive walls, Ebla became an important regional power during the late third millennium BC. The remains of palaces and temples dot the city while recent archaeological work has uncovered large sections of domestic housing. It is at Ebla that a vast library of some 15,000 clay tablets was unearthed by Italian archaeologists. Overnight: Aleppo. (B, PL, D)
Friday 8 October: Aleppo Aleppo has been a mercantile centre since time immemorial and it is fitting that one of its main attractions is the Old City with its maze of medieval markets. Today we get acquainted with this ancient and evocative city. In the morning we visit the archaeological museum and the truly impressive citadel; in the afternoon we wander through the souks of the old town. This tends to be an amazing experience as covered markets, literally dripping with history, run this way and that. In one section the wooden doors of a khan (caravanserai) open up, in another you are jostled aside by a donkey with a great load of black goat-hair tents on its back. Here a bath-house, there a perfume shop, everywhere a rug seller! The markets assault you on every level and are a shopper s paradise. In the evening we will have time for a drink at the Baron s Hotel once frequented by Agatha Christie and T.E. Lawrence. Overnight: Aleppo. (B) Saturday 9 October: St Simion, Deir Semaan and Ain Dara A full-day excursion from Aleppo takes us north towards the Turkish border. Our first stop is the Basilica of St Simion. Set in delightful surroundings, the church marks the spot where, in the 5th century AD, St Simion spent the last thirty-six years of his life on the top of a pillar 15m high. Although the pillar is now just a vestigial hump after the effects of hundreds of years of souvenir-takers, the church remains one of the finest examples of early Christian architecture. On the plain below is the major pilgrimage centre Deir Semaan, another well-preserved Dead City, with its sacred way winding up to the Basilica. Afterwards we head further north along the fertile Afrin Valley to Ain Dara where the remains of a neo-hittite temple, occupied during the 9th and 8th centuries BC, still cast their brooding presence over the surrounding plains. Overnight: Aleppo. (B, PL, D) Sunday 10 October: Aleppo Today is at leisure in Aleppo to explore more of its fascinating alleyways and souks, to follow its medieval walls or simply to immerse yourself in the hustle and bustle of this vibrant city. Overnight: Aleppo. (B) Monday 11 October: Resafa and Halebiya Departing Aleppo we head east for the Euphrates River. Before reaching this legendary watercourse we travel into the desert to visit the Byzantine pilgrimage (and garrison) town of Resafa. Although probably in existence from Assyrian times, Resafa rose to prominence when it was fortified by the Roman emperor Diocletian in the third century AD. Now the ruins of this walled town spring up out of the featureless desert and represent the first line of defence for the Roman Empire that once stretched from here to the distant hills of Britain. Later we stop at the Palmyrene (and, later,byzantine) fortress town of Halebiya, with its imposing citadel high above the banks of the Euphrates. Overnight: Deir ez-zur. (B, PL, D) Tuesday 12 October: Deir ez-zur and Palmyra This morning we visit the Deir ez-zur museum which skilfully illustrates the vast sweep of Syria s history before enjoying time in the city s Bedouin markets. In the afternoon we journey across the desert to Palmyra. As we drive, we see the camps of nomadic Bedouin and their flocks of fat-tailed sheep on either side of the road until, out of the desert haze, emerges Palmyra - the Bride of the Desert. Overnight: Palmyra. (B, PL, D) Wednesday 13 October: Palmyra Palmyra was the home of the rebel Queen Zenobia who fought so stubbornly against the Romans in the third century AD. Few sites are more evocative or can match Palmyra for its wonderful location; nothing comes close to exploring its vast field of ruins sitting on the edge of a lush desert
oasis. We spend the entire day here, wandering along its superb colonnaded streets and visiting its mysterious Tower Tombs, the great Temple of Bel within its massive enclosure, and the Forum and theatre within city centre. In the evening, from the Castle of Ibn Maan, we watch the sun sink over the great Syrian Desert. Overnight: Palmyra. (B, D) Thursday 14 October: Maalula On our way back to Damascus we stop at the small town of Maalula, some of whose Christian inhabitants still speak the ancient Aramaic language spoken at the time of Christ. Maalula, meaning the entrance in Aramaic, refers to its dramatic location perched 1,500m up the slopes of the Kalamun Mountains at the entrance to a rocky gorge. Overnight: Damascus. (B, PL, D) Friday 15 October: Damascus Today is at leisure for you to explore the streets, souks, shops and cafés of the Old City as you wish. Overnight: Damascus. (B) Saturday 16 October: Syria to Jordan Today we head south from Damascus to Bosra, the Nabatean Roman city famous for its theatre and vast black basalt ruins. We then say farewell to Syria and cross the border to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. Overnight: Amman. (B, PL, D) Sunday 17 October: Amman and Iraq el-amir We spend the day exploring the city of Amman, capital of Jordan. Amman has been inhabited by several civilisations that over time have left their own individual mark. We visit the Roman theatre which was built by Marcus Aurelius during the 2nd century AD and capable of seating 6,000 people. We also visit the Citadel that towers above downtown Amman. Numerous excavations here have revealed the long and diverse history of the city: remains from the Middle Bronze Age, the Iron Age as well as from Hellenistic and late Roman to Arab Islamic Ages. We also spend time in the Citadel s archaeological museum and later travel to the Hellenistic chateau of Iraq el-emir. Overnight: Amman. (B, PL, D) Monday 18 October: Jordan Valley, Pella and Umm Qais In the morning we drive to the north Jordan Valley and visit Pella, the site of University of Sydney excavations for over 30 years. Beautifully situated amongst the foothills of the Jordanian Valley, which it overlooks, and beside a constantly flowing spring, Pella is one of Jordan s most ancient and richest sites. We then travel further north to Umm Qais, one of the most opulent of the Decapolis cities, with its wonderful views across the Sea of Galilee. Overnight: Amman. (B, L, D) Tuesday 19 October: Ajloun Castle and Jerash Today we encounter the genius of medieval Arab military architecture as seen in the historic towering Ayyubid castle of Ajloun. Built by one of Saladin's generals in 1184 both to control the iron mines and deter the Franks from invasion, its strategic position, dominating the three main routes leading to the Jordan valley, became an important link in the defensive chain against the Crusaders, who unsuccessfully spent decades trying to capture the castle and nearby village. Afterwards we visit Jerash, one of the most completely preserved Roman cities in the region. Major excavations at Jerash only commenced some 80 years ago, with work still in progress. The ruins today boast colonnaded streets, triumphal arches, baths, theatres, grand houses, numerous churches and an impressive hippodrome. The coming of Christianity and later Islam brought about a gradual reduction in the size and importance of Jerash which was finally devastated by a massive earthquake in 748 AD. Overnight: Amman. (B, D) Wednesday 20 October: Dead Sea and Wadi Feynan In the morning we head south along the Jordan Valley and skirt the shore of the Dead Sea where we have our picnic lunch. We then turn east and enter the Dana Nature Reserve and the hauntingly beautiful landscape of the Wadi Feynan, home to one of the greatest copper deposits of antiquity. In the afternoon we explore the Wadi, with its ruined Byzantine settlement (Khirbet Feynan) and also the picturesque Wadi Ghweir and its perfectly preserved Neolithic village. Tonight is a rare experience as we spend the night in an eco lodge in Wadi Feynan. Overnight: Wadi Feynan. (B, PL, D)
Thursday 21 October: Beidha and Petra In the morning we wander for some way along the Wadi Dana, usually dotted by the goat hair tents of the local Bedouin. We then travel to Petra through the rugged mountains bordering the Wadi Arabah, with spectacular views of the Negev Desert to the west. In the afternoon we visit the famous Natufian/Neolithic site of Beidha and then the northern Petra area of Siq el-barid, popularly known as Little Petra, where the great camel trains of antiquity used to camp. Overnight: Petra. (B, L, D) Sunday 24 October: Departure from Amman There is a transfer to Amman Airport for your return to Australia or ongoing flight arrangements. For those who may wish to linger longer, we are happy to assist with additional arrangements. (B) Images (except Wadi Feynan, the Siq and Petra) by kind permission of Ben Churcher Friday 22 October: Petra Today is dedicated to the ancient Nabataean city of Petra, spectacularly cut out of the rock of its enclosing sandstone mountains. This caravan-city at the crossroads of Arabia, Egypt, and Syria- Phoenicia was only rediscovered by the West in 1812 by the Swiss explorer Burkhardt. Our explorations begin as we enter the mysterious site through the narrow Siq and end high up at the Monastery (al-deir), the largest of all Petra s monuments, which stands in isolation overlooking the Wadi Arabah. We meet tonight for our farewell dinner. Overnight: Petra. (B, D) Saturday 23 October: Petra and Kerak In the morning we return to Petra before heading north to Amman. We follow the Kings Highway, the ancient road that linked north and south Jordan. Along the way we visit the spectacular Crusader castle of Kerak. Although the castle was constructed in the 12th century, Kerak s origins stretch back to the Iron Age when the area was part of Moab. Overnight: Amman. (B, L, D)
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Accommodation Star rating classification varies from country to country. All hotels on this tour have been rated 4- to 5- star and have been carefully selected for their comfort and/or location. Porterage (one piece of luggage per person) is included for group arrivals at and group departures from each hotel. Proposed Hotels: Damascus:Talisman Hotel www.hoteltalisman.net Hama: Orient House www.orienthouse-sy.com Aleppo: Dar Zamaria www.darzamaria.com Dei ez-zur: Furat Cham www.chamhotels.com Palmyra: Zanobia Cham www.chamhotels.com Amman: Amman Crown Plaza: www.amman.crowneplaza.com Dana Nature Reserve: Wadi Feynan Eco Lodge Petra: Beit Zaman Resort Dana Nature Reserve The Dana Nature Reserve is operated by The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN), an independent non-profit non-government organisation devoted to the conservation of Jordan's natural resources. Established in 1966 under the patronage of His Majesty the late King Hussein, RSCN has been given the responsibility by the Government of Jordan to protect the Kingdom s natural heritage. As a result of its pioneering conservation work, RSCN has achieved international recognition. To find out more, please refer to their website: www.rscn.org.jo. Wadi Feynan Eco Lodge opened in the summer of 2005 amongst the arid mountains on the western border of the Reserve. It is accessed by 4-wheel drive. Built entirely of local materials and designed by a local architect, it incorporates traditional adobe building techniques. The result is a building that is functional, romantic and yet still blends in with its surroundings. The hot water of its en-suite rooms is solar-powered by day; at night it is lit by candles produced by Bedouin women working in the candle workshop that forms part of the lodge. The lodge is staffed and run by local Bedouin. Pre-Departure Meeting Approximately 4 weeks before your departure there will be an evening meeting and buffet dinner. This allows you to meet your tour leader and fellow travelling companions and gain valuable travel information. Weather October is an excellent time to visit Syria and Jordan; summer s heat should have departed and winter s cold should not have arrived as yet. However, you should still expect warm to hot weather during the day. Nights, especially in desert regions, will be cool if not cold. In October, average temperatures in Amman and Damascus range between the mid twenties (degrees Celsius) by day, dropping to the low teens by night. Although rainfall is low, we should be prepared for a few light falls. We suggest that you keep an eye on the weather in the major centres of the tour in the lead up to the tour either courtesy of SBS News, the Sydney Morning Herald (or equivalent), or online via one of the weather websites which offer 5 day forecasts such as www.worldweather.org or http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather. Fitness Overseas travel takes us beyond our usual physical and mental comfort zone. Therefore, please consider the following carefully. In order to enjoy the natural beauty of the countryside and the archaeological sites, it is often necessary to walk reasonable distances as motor access may be difficult. You should be fit enough to walk for periods of up to 90 minutes with only short breaks. A pair of comfortable walking shoes with a firm grip is recommended. If after carefully reading this daily tour program, you have any concerns about your fitness or ability to participate in this tour, particularly anything which may cause delay or inconvenience to others, please contact the Travel Coordinator (02 9036 4766) to discuss further the physical demands of the tour. Safety and Security Your safety and security are our priority. If the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade issues an official do not travel warning for places visited on a tour, we cancel the tour and give you a full refund.
The Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation This tour is run in conjunction with the Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation. A portion of the tour price is donated to NEAF to help fund its activities, and in return, each participant of this tour will receive a year s free membership of the Foundation. The aims of the Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation are to further research in the archaeology of the Near East, Egypt and Cyprus and to bring the world of Near Eastern Archaeology to the general public. Our first aim is achieved by giving grants to postgraduate research students working in those fields that are the major concern of the Foundation. The second aim of the Foundation, to make Near Eastern Archaeology more accessible to the general public, is achieved in a variety of ways. During the year, the Foundation offers several lectures on Near Eastern, Cypriot and Egyptian archaeology to its members, and as opportunities arise, the Foundation endeavours to arrange private viewings of touring archaeological exhibitions. Since 1992 NEAF has managed a volunteer system that enables lay people to participate in an overseas archaeological excavation, and by their financial and physical contribution, enable excavation and research to take place. The Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation allows people who would have little or no contact with this fascinating study of their past, other than through the written word, to achieve not only first hand experience of excavation and study, but also to further the careers and the research of the graduate students who are so often their teachers and friends. For further information please contact: The Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation c/- Archaeology A14 The University of Sydney NSW 2006 AUSTRALIA (+ 61) 02 9351 4151 fax: (+61) 02 9351 6392 email: neaf@arts.usyd.edu.au