SYRIA A Levantine wonder 29 April 16 May 2008 Syria is a hidden jewel of the Middle East, little visited although it remains a secure destination for travellers. From the moment we step into the spectacular souks (markets) of Damascus, we will be immersed in a fabulous history stretching back thousands of years. From the Mediterranean coast to the Euphrates River, this tour will visit Crusader castles, ancient tells, Roman forts, the bride of the desert Palmyra and the oriental splendour of the souks, mosques and towns of Syria.
OVERVIEW OF ITINERARY This 18-day tour is designed to introduce you to the history and archaeology of Syria in such a way that there is time for individual exploration, as well as interaction with the fascinating modern cultures that we shall encounter. In amongst the region s historical splendour we also explore some of the most exciting oriental markets to be found from the hustle and bustle of Aleppo to the streets once walked by St Paul in Damascus. During our journey we travel among local people whose generosity and hospitality are legendary. Tour Highlights Soak up the long history of this small country, crammed with spectacular and seldom-visited historical monuments. Wander through the ruins of Crac des Chevaliers, a Crusader castle described by Lawrence of Arabia as the most admirable castle in the whole world. Experience a ghost town dating to the Byzantine period. Your tour leader Ben Churcher first visited the Middle East in 1983 when he participated with the University of Sydney s archaeological excavations at Pella in Jordan. Since then he has travelled to the region almost every year. These many trips were either to carry on the work at Pella, that continues to this day, or to explore the highways and byways of the region. Ben took his first tour to Syria over thirteen years ago and he led the Centre for Continuing Education s first Syria and Lebanon tour in 2003. Ben has also led tours to Greece, Turkey, Iran, Jordan, Egypt, Morocco, Mali, Mexico and China. With his knowledge of the region, Ben is confident that this tour will give people a great insight into the cultures and archaeology of the Middle East. Explore the intriguing souks (markets) of Aleppo and Damascus. Marvel at the impressive mud-brick walls of a bronzeage palace at Mari. Stand on the Euphrates River at the eastern frontier of the Roman world. See the sun rise at Palmyra in the middle of the Syrian desert. Discover the archaeological riches of ancient Ugarit.
How much does the tour cost? Land only: (ex Damascus) $5,700 per person (based on twin-share accommodation) $950 single supplements for single room Air Travel: (from Sydney) $2,320 (includes fuel surcharge), + applicable taxes, economy class return $8,165 (includes fuel surcharge), + applicable taxes, business class return The group will be flying Emirates as follows: Monday 28 April, EK413, depart Sydney 9.10pm, arrive Dubai 5.45am (29 April) Tuesday 29 April, EK911, depart Dubai 7.15am, arrive Damascus 9.30am Friday 16 May, EK912, depart Damascus 11am, arrive Dubai 2.50pm (17 May) Saturday 17 May, EK412, depart Dubai 10.15am, arrive Sydney 6.05am (18 May) Note: Overnight accommodation (twin share basis only), dinner (16 May) and breakfast (17May) at Dubai Airport is included for those who purchase the group airfare from the Centre for Continuing Education and fly on the group flights above. Subject to exchange rate fluctuations, airline increase and the number of people on the tour, the price may vary. You will be notified immediately of any changes. The land costs are based on a minimum of 15 tour participants. A deposit of $500 per person is required to reserve a place on the tour. The full balance is due 60 days before departure. What is included in the land tour cost? All breakfasts, 11 lunches, 13 dinners Accommodation in selected hotel (4-5 stars local ratings) While on tour, ground transportation in air conditioned coach Services of Tour Leaders from arrival in Damascus, 29 April, to departure from Damascus, 16 May Services of local guide on tour Group tips to drivers and guide What is not included in the cost? Travel insurance (this is a requirement) Airline and departure taxes Visa costs (if required) Meals and activities not mentioned in the itinerary, or listed as optional Tips for individual services Personal expenses, such as laundry, phone and fax bills and other incidentals Porterage (one piece per person) in and out of hotels Tour notes and background talks on tour Pre-departure meeting and dinner in Sydney For those arriving and/or departing on the group flights and dates above, transfers between Damascus Airport and group hotel One year s free subscription to NEAF
DETAILED ITINERARY Tuesday 29 April: Damascus The group flight arrives in Damascus and we are transferred to our hotel. The rest of the day is free to relax or explore the environs. Overnight Damascus. Wednesday 30 April: Damascus Few cities of the world can match the sense of excitement one feels when wandering the streets of Damascus. In a way it seems familiar, so often have you heard its name, yet the reality of the city is a combination of modern chaos and historical majesty. When in the old city, wooden Ottoman style houses lean out to touch each other above the passageways, Roman Corinthian columns are used to shore up the wall of the Umayyad Mosque, a quiet almost medieval street suddenly becomes a main road where you must squeeze yourself against a wall to avoid the cars. Clash and contradiction, and among it all, a thousand shops selling silks, rugs, perfumes, chocolates and any other piece of merchandise ever devised by humans. Today s guided tour takes us through the city s fabulous markets (souks), the incomparable Umayyad Mosque, the Tomb of Saladin and the eastern, Christian district of the old city. Overnight Damascus. Thursday 1 May: Tell Nebi Mend and Hama In the morning we travel north to the town of Hama on the Orontes River. Enroute we visit the site of ancient Kadesh: Tell Nebi Mend. Now a small village in a very attractive location, it was here in the thirteenth century BC that the armies of the Egyptians and the Hittites clashed in one of the first major international battles of the region. In the afternoon, following a picnic lunch, we explore the town of Hama (the Arabic word for fortress) including a stop at some of the 16 renowned large water wheels (norias) that grace the town s centre. Overnight Hama. Friday 2 May: Apamea, Serjilla and Al Bara Making Hama our base, we first visit the great Hellenistic city of Apamea where extensive classical remains survive, still overlooking the fertile plains that brought the city prosperity. The site contains a theatre, colonnaded streets, villas, a cathedral and a small museum. After a picnic lunch we explore two of Syria s so-called Dead Cities : Al Bara and Serjilla. These cities date to the prosperous Byzantine period when increased demand encouraged lavish agricultural development in what is fairly marginal land. A combination of plagues, depressed agricultural prices and decreasing soil fertility spelled the end for these cities which were largely abandoned. Today the skeletons of the Byzantine period buildings still rise from the fields and olive plantations giving us an evocative taste of a time long passed. Overnight Hama. Saturday 3 May: Safita And Musyaf Today we travel to Safita, a pleasant hill-top town set in a dramatic landscape. On the way we stop at the Assassin Castle at Musyaf that was in use during the early twelfth century. In the afternoon we visit the White Tower of Safita, a surviving inner keep of the Crusader castle that once occupied the site. Overnight Safita. Sunday 4 May: Crac des Chevaliers We spend today exploring the largest and bestpreserved Crusader castle in the world Crac des Chevaliers. We climb up to the heights of the castle with its panoramic views and walk in the moat between vast walls of stone. In echoing pillared halls you can almost imagine the knights at work and those of good voice can check out the acoustics of the Crusader chapel. Weather permitting, we enjoy a picnic lunch overlooking the castle. Overnight Safita. Monday 5 May: Amrit and Tartous Heading down to the Mediterranean coast, we first visit the enigmatic Persian period site of Amrit. In the time of Alexander the Great, Amrit was known by the Greek name of Marathus and was one of the largest cities in the East. We then travel to the town of Tartous that came into Crusader hands in 1102. During their occupation the Crusaders built an impressive cathedral that still largely stands (now housing the local museum). In 1188 the great Arab general Saladin captured the entire town, except for the dungeon, the knights last stand of defence. Only in 1291 were the Crusaders finally expelled, although a small garrison continued to hold the small off-shore island of Arwad for a further eleven years. Finally we continue north to Lattakia. Overnight Lattakia. Tuesday 6 May: Ugarit and Qala at Salah ad-din There are two impressive sites in the hinterland of Lattakia, and today we visit them both. In the morning we journey to Ras Shamra (or ancient Ugarit) one of the most important Bronze Age sites in the Levant. During the second millennium BC, Ugarit was a thriving trading settlement and the many inscriptions and tablets that have been uncovered here
are a testament to the cosmopolitan and vibrant nature of society at this time. Like many sites of such antiquity, only fragments of the original city remain but a visit to the site is nevertheless rewarding. In the afternoon we visit the scrambling ruins of Saladin s Castle (Qala at Salah ad-din) named after the Islamic general who captured the castle from its Crusader defenders in 1188. The great rock-cut moat at this castle shows to what degree the Crusaders went to protect their Middle Eastern possessions. Overnight Lattakia. Wednesday 7 May: Ebla and Aleppo On our way to Aleppo we again step back in time when we visit Ebla, a site that is superlative in many respects; for an ancient site it is well preserved and its location, free of modern clutter, is spectacular. This city rose to power during the third and second millennium BC when it became a regional power. The remains of palaces and temples dot the site and recent archaeological work at the site has uncovered large sections of domestic housing. Following a picnic lunch we head north to the legendary city of Aleppo. Overnight Aleppo. Thursday 8 May: Aleppo Today we immerse ourselves into the medieval splendour (and clutter) of Aleppo. We visit the archaeological museum and the impressive citadel in the morning, before spending the afternoon wandering the souks of the old town. This tends to be an amazing experience as covered markets, literally dripping with history, run this way and that. In one section the wooden doors of a Khan (or inn) open up, in another you are jostled aside by a donkey with a great load of black goathair tents on its back. Here a bath-house, here a perfume shop, there a rug seller. The markets assault you on every level and are a shopper s paradise! Overnight Aleppo. Friday 9 May: Ain Dara and Cyrrhus Today we head north to one of the most beautiful and fascinating regions of Syria. Our first stop is the Basilica of St Simion. This church covers the spot where in the fifth century AD St Simion sat on top of pillars fifteen metres high for the last thirty-six years of his life. Although St Simion s pillar is now just a vestigial hump after the effects of hundreds of years of souvenir takers, the church is in delightful surroundings. Afterwards we head further north to Ain Dara where the remains of a neo-hittite temple occupied during the ninth and eighth centuries BC still casts its brooding presence over the surrounding plains. Our final visit for the day is to the important Roman legionary town of Cyrrhus. Overnight Aleppo. Saturday 10 May: Rasafeh From Aleppo we head east to meet the Euphrates. After passing one of the many dams on this great river (Lake al-assad) we turn south to Rasafeh one of the Roman world s most lonely outposts. Although probably in existence from Assyrian times, Rasafeh rose to prominence when it was fortified by the Roman emperor Diocletian in the third century AD. Now the ruins of this walled town spring up out of the featureless desert and you cannot help but be staggered when you think that this marked the first line of defence for the Roman Empire that stretched from here to the distant hills of Britain. Later we rejoin the Euphrates and continue south until we reach our hotel at Deir ez-zur. Overnight Deir ez-zur. Sunday 11 May: Dura Europos and Mari Today we visit two very impressive sites. The first is Dura Europos. Founded as a Hellenistic city, Dura Europos rose to prominence during the Roman period. Vast walls of mud-brick still surround the site that contains temples, baths, an agora and a synagogue. The view from the walls down to the Euphrates River below will be a memorable sight. In the afternoon we continue south to Mari, a marvellous site that includes the Bronze Age palace of Zimri-lim. Zimri-lim who ruled in the eighteenth century BC, occupied a strategic position to control trade coming from Mesopotamia in the south. As a result the city flourished and today the mud-brick walls of the very impressive palace still stand eight meters high. Overnight Deir ez-zur. Monday 12 May: Palmyra Leaving the Euphrates, we travel west across the Syrian Desert to Palmyra. As we drive, we see the camps of nomadic Bedouin and their flocks of fat-tailed sheep on either side of the road until, out of the desert haze, emerges Palmyra the bride of the desert. Few sites are more evocative. Not only was Palmyra the home of the rebel Queen Zenobia who fought so stubbornly against the Romans in the third century AD, but the ruins cover the desert in a most atmospheric way. We visit the centre of ancient Palmyra today and experience the wellpreserved colonnaded streets, markets, temples and a theatre that survive in the heart of the city. Dinner tonight will be in a Bedouin tent with music! Overnight Palmyra.
Tuesday 13 May: Palmyra Today we have a full day at Palmyra. In the morning we visit any areas left unvisited from the day before, including the unique Temple of Bel and the equally impressive Tower Tombs. The afternoon is at leisure to take in the atmosphere of this wonderful Roman period site nestled next to its oasis. Overnight Palmyra. Wednesday 14 May: Damascus Today we depart Palmyra and head back to Damascus. On arrival we visit Damascus archaeological museum where artefacts from many of the sites we have visited are on display. Highlights of the museum are the reconstructed mural-covered synagogue from Dura Europos and a range of beautiful statues from Mari. Overnight Damascus. Thursday 15 May: Damascus After a short city tour in the morning, the rest of the day is free to explore the souks of Damascus, pick up last minute souvenirs or to get lost in the lanes and alleys of the old city. Take some time out to sip a tea and let the city swirl around you as you enjoy your last day in the wonderful Middle East. Tonight we have our farewell dinner in a restaurant overlooking the Umayyad Mosque. Overnight Damascus. Friday 16 May: Departure For those ending their tour in Damascus today and taking the group flight home, there is a morning transfer to the airport. OPTIONAL EXTENSION LEBANON Land cost: $1,490 (based on twin share accommodation) $ 300 (single supplement for single room) Inclusions: All breakfasts, 3 lunches, 3 dinners Accommodation in selected hotel (4-5 stars local ratings While on tour, ground transportation in air conditioned coach Services of Tour Leader and local guide Group tips to drivers and guide Porterage (one piece per person) in and out of hotels Exclusions: Visa costs (if required) Meals and activities not mentioned in the itinerary, or listed as optional Tips for individual services Personal expenses, such as laundry, phone and fax bills and other incidentals Friday 16 May: Aanjar and Baalbeck Heading west from Damascus we enter Lebanon and after the border formalities our first stop is the Umayyad ruins at Aanjar. As the Umayyads were the first Islamic dynasty to control this region in the seventh century AD, sites such as Aanjar are perfect places to illustrate the blend of Byzantine and Arab cultures that occurred when they first came into contact with one another. Travelling north from Aanjar we have lunch at the mountain retreat town of Zahle before driving into the Bekaa Valley that runs north-south between the Lebanon and anti-lebanon ranges. This flat and often dry valley has been of great strategic importance throughout history and in some areas where springs allow a greater population, important towns developed. None of these towns was more famous than Baalbek which we visit in the afternoon. This site, set among the poplars, was first sacred to the Phoenician god Baal but when the town was renamed in the Roman period as Helipolis, or the city of the sun, a vast temple to Jupiter was built. Now largely ruined, the size of this temple still staggers the viewer while the smaller but beautifully complete Temple of Bacchus gives you a splendid idea of what a Roman temple would have been like. Overnight Baalbek.
Saturday 17 May: Beirut and Byblos Departing Baalbek we travel to Beirut. Once a minor Phoenician port, it rose to prominence during the classical period when it became the main harbour along this stretch of the coast. We have time for a city tour including a visit to the recently restored archaeological museum and a Roman period bath-house. Afterwards we continue north to the picturesque town of Byblos that has fantastic archaeological remains, a Crusader period church and one of the loveliest boat harbours on the Mediterranean. Overnight Byblos. Sunday 18 May: Byblos, Becharre and the Kadisha Valley After visiting the ancient site of Byblos in the morning, we head into the mountains and stop at Becharre, once home to Lebanon s famous literary figure Khalil Gibran. After lunch we visit one of the nearby stands of Lebanese Cedar a timber that has been synonymous with Lebanon for so many millennia. We also visit the region of the spectacular Kadisha Valley a World Heritage region of steep-sided chasms dotted with monasteries. Overnight Byblos. Monday 19 May: Sidon and Beiteddine This morning we travel to the ancient Phoenician city of Sidon. Here we visit a city made famous through the processing of royal purple dye from the tiny Murex shell. Once one of the region s most powerful Phoenician settlements, Sidon continued to be influential into the Hellenistic and Roman periods. Although much of the archaeological remains have been built over by modern Sidon, there is a small Crusader castle to visit and a wander through the old city is interesting. Later we head up into the mountains to the Druze stronghold of Beiteddine before re-entering Syria and returning to Damascus. Overnight Damascus. Tuesday 20 May: Departure For those who purchased the group air fare from CCE, there is a morning transfer to the airport.
Additional Information Background to the Itinerary This tour will appeal to people who have an interest in history (ancient and modern), archaeology, architecture and art. It will also appeal to those who just wish to interact with different cultures in a fascinating region of the world. The itinerary has been carefully organised to include all the major sites of the region, as well as some off the beaten track sites to give participants a comprehensive look at the countries through which we are travelling. An observation that could be made is that the itinerary seems rather full, with very few free days. While the tour certainly covers a lot of places and sites, please bear in mind that we do not often have to travel very far between each site. The itinerary has been prepared from the personal experience of the tour leader who has travelled the route of this itinerary many times. We are therefore confident that the tour will not be rushed and that there will be ample time for people to explore the sites and towns we visit. Accommodation The accommodation throughout the tour will be comfortable and all rooms will have their own facilities. In general we have chosen hotels either for their location or for their atmosphere. As Syria (and Lebanon if you are taking the optional extension) are still developing their tourist infrastructure, it means that we do not have as much choice between different hotels as we might in other regions of the world. But this also means that there are not too many other travellers to disrupt our enjoyment of the region! Background Talks To get the most out of a visit to a town or archaeological site, two things are usually required: historical and practical information about the place you are visiting and time to see it properly. This important component of the tour is aided by a series of historical talks given by your tour leader and complemented by your local guides throughout the tour. Pre-Departure Meeting Approximately 4 weeks before your departure there will be an evening meeting and dinner. This allows you to meet your tour leader and fellow travelling companions and gain valuable information regarding climate, currency and practical travel information. Weather This tour takes us through a variety of climatic and topographic zones, from the coast to the desert, during early spring. Although summer s heat should not have arrived as yet, we should still expect warm weather during the day. Nights, especially in desert regions, will be cool if not cold. The average temperature for Damascus in May is between 13-29 degrees Celsius. For those taking the optional extension to Lebanon, the average temperature for Beirut in May is between 18-26 degrees Celsius. Although rainfall is low, we should be prepared for a few light falls. Fitness In order to enjoy the countryside and archaeological sites, it is often necessary to walk reasonable distances as motor access may be difficult. You should be fit enough to walk for periods of up to 90 minutes with only short breaks. If, after carefully reading this daily tour programme, you have any concerns about your fitness or ability to participate in this tour, causing delaying or inconvenience to others, please contact the Travel Coordinator (02 9036 4766) if you wish to discuss further the physical demands of the tour. What kind of people travel with us? With all our tours we ask participants to give feedback. Over the years they have told us that the main reasons they continue to travel with Continuing Education include: Well-delivered and carefully planned itineraries that combine intellectual engagement with enjoyment and relaxation; and Informed, passionate and caring tour leaders, many of whom present regular courses at CCE on themes
relevant to tours they are leading ideal for those wanting to do some preliminary study; Being with like-minded travellers who want to be a part of a lively informed group, and often forming friendships that continue well after the end of the tour. The age of participants varies from 18 to 80, but many are over 45 and are independent travellers wanting the assurance that most of the technical things on tour are taken care of; and Safety and security as a priority if the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade issues an official travel warning to places visited on a tour, we cancel the tour and give you a full refund. the research of the graduate students who are so often their teachers and friends. For further information please contact: The Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation c/- Archaeology A14 The University of Sydney NSW 2006 AUSTRALIA (+ 61) 02 9351 4151 fax: (+61) 02 9351 6392 email: neaf@arts.usyd.edu.au The Near Eastern Archaeological Foundation This tour is run in conjunction with the Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation. A portion of the tour price is donated to NEAF to help fund its activities, and in return, each participant of this tour will receive a year s free membership of the Foundation. The aims of the Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation are to further research in the archaeology of the Near East, Egypt and Cyprus and to bring the world of Near Eastern Archaeology to the general public. Our first aim is achieved by giving grants to postgraduate research students working in those fields that are the major concern of the Foundation. The second aim of the Foundation, to make Near Eastern Archaeology more accessible to the general public, is achieved in a variety of ways. During the year, the Foundation offers several lectures on Near Eastern, Cypriot and Egyptian archaeology to its members, and as opportunities arise, the Foundation endeavours to arrange private viewings of touring archaeological exhibitions. Since 1992 NEAF has managed a volunteer system that enables lay people to participate in an overseas archaeological excavation, and by their financial and physical contribution, enable excavation and research to take place. The Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation allows people who would have little or no contact with this fascinating study of their past, other than through the written word, to achieve not only first hand experience of excavation and study, but also to further the careers and