Rwanda Africa Point Insider Rwanda is a petite country at the heart of Africa that is the latest nature-lovers craze. A land of immense natural splendour and diversity, the country is emerging from a recent troubled history to become a well regarded eco-tourism destination. Attractions are numerous: splendid landscapes - rolling hills to steep mountains, cultural heritage, mountain gorillas, volcano peaks, dense rainforests, wildlife sanctuaries, and numerous rivers and lakes. Rwanda appears to be a vista of endless mounts and drops, and is thus referred to as the land of a thousand hills. Landlocked between East & Central Africa, it is at 26,338 sq km about the size of the US state of Massachusetts. In this tough neighbourhood, it is snuggled up between Uganda to its north, Tanzania to its east, Burundi to its south, and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) to its west. Tourists have in increasing numbers been sampling Rwand a bounty and over 40,000 tourists visited the country in 2007- mainly to see its famed gorillas. The Virunga ecosystem -which encompasses Volcano National Park in Rwanda, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda and DRC Congo s Virunga National Park, is the last remaining mountain gorilla sanctuary in the world, and carries one third of the worlds remaining 750 mountain gorillas. The World Conservation Union has classified mountain gorillas as critically endangered- and sees them as facing a very high risk of extinction. Mountain gorillas owe a lot to Dian Fossey, who spent 18 years of her life living and working among them. This sojourn led to a book and widely acclaimed movie of the same title Gorillas in the Mist. The biographical film was set and shot on location in the Volcano National Park. Rwanda has in recent years held a well publicised annual baby gorilla naming ceremony -Kwita Izina- an event modeled on the traditional naming ceremony for newborns. The ceremony is held for gorillas born in the preceding 12 months, and is intended to raise local and international awareness on the dire plight of the mountain gorilla. Parc National des Volcans (PNV), also known as Volcano National Park is Rwanda s most famed attraction, and is where all of Rwanda s gorilla tracking is done. Occupying 125 sq km of montane forest, the park is situated to the north-west of the country at the border with Uganda and DR Congo. The park consists of 4 vegetation zones: the bamboo zone which rises from base altitudes to as high up as 2600m; the lusher Hagenia and Hypericum zone, which is thick forest rising up to about 3300m; the Sub-alpine to about 4000m, and finally the Afro-alpine zone takes over the volcano peaks.
The park sits like a gorgeous mural with all six of Rwanda s volcanoes lined up in sequence. Karisimbi stands as the highest peak and the country s highest point at 4324m, while Gahinga, Mikeno, Muhabura, Sabyinyo and Visoke are the other 5 volcanoes. Adventure travellers delight in trekking through the chain of misty volcanoes while enjoying clean air and panoramic views as they trail the rare mountain gorillas. These gentle giants of the ape family prefer habitats of high altitude and bamboo forests. To go on a gorilla tracking excursion, every tracker is required to obtain a permit from the Rwanda Tourism Board (ORTPN). The number of permits issued per day is limited to only eight, and to secure a slot advance booking is necessary. Gorilla tracking can be a little pricey, but on the other hand, tracking these colossal beings while walking through the thickets and enjoying nature at the same time is an educative, entertaining, and refreshing experience and for lovers of the natural world it is money well spent. Tracing the paths taken by the gorillas from their overnight nest, each excursion lasts 1-4 hours. Trackers must be accompanied by an experienced gorilla guide. While on a gorilla excursion, certain regulations must be adhered to for ones own safety and that of the environment. Bad manners such as spitting, smoking, littering, coughing in the direction of the gorillas and noise making are prohibited. You are also advised to refrain from making any rapid movements- including running and disturbing vegetation. Photos must be taken without a flash and to take videos you need clearance by ORTPN. It is usually not safe to get too close to the gorillas; about 7m is close enough. It is advisable to wear long sleeves and trousers to avoid the pain of nettle and insect stings. The weather in the mountains is capricious and it is wise to carry along some rain gear and comfortable waterproof hiking boots. The altitude changes makes onerous demands on the body, and you should bring along a little snack and lots drinking water. But you will annoy the authorities if you attempt to feed the animals or eat in their presence. Managed by the ORTPN, the PNV is well maintained and security is good; park rangers are on constant patrol. The park is easily accessible from Ruhengeri town, which is 14km from park headquarters. Ruhengeri itself has good road connections; it is just a 90 minute drive from the capital Kigali, and 45 minutes from Gisenyi on Lake Kivu. Nyungwe National Park, a large montane rainforest to the southwest is another of Rwanda s natural attractions. Placed in the Albertine Rift, the park is part of a series of mountain ranges that run from the Rwenzori Mountains of western Uganda, through Burundi and Rwanda, and onto eastern DR Congo. Perched at elevations of between 1600m and 2950m and occupying 970 sq km, it is Africa s largest mountainous rainforest. It has its headquarters at Uqinka town, 54 km west of Cyangungu town and is well accessible from Butare town. Rich in flora and fauna, Nyungwe s biodiversity is incomparable. With over 200 tree species, an amazing 100 orchid species and various flowering plants, the park s plant-life is mostly endemic. Weaving through the forest are meandering trails that lead to excellent view points or natural waterfalls. Trekking through the ranges further reveals a magnificent array of primates and birdlife. The chatter of monkeys fills the forest as primates make up a large part of Nyungwe s animal population with 13 different species recorded. The acrobatic black and white Angola colobus are always
ready with a spectacular show as they swing from tree to tree. Other notables include the vervet, golden, red-tailed, silver, hamlyn s, Dent s Mona and L Hoest s monkeys. The grey-cheeked mangabey and olive baboon are also residents here. Quite a good population of chimpanzees, estimated at about 500 individuals enjoy sanctuary here in their natural surroundings. A birder s paradise, Nyungwe has an impressive bird species count. 275 of Rwanda s 670 birds can be found here, 26 of which are endemic to the Albertine Rift. Some of its resident birds include the colourful Ruwenzori and blue turacos, the green pigeon, giant forest hornbill, paradise flycatcher, alethe and sunbirds. Akagera National Park, towards the Rwandan border with Tanzania is Rwanda s home of safari. It provides a contrast from the hilly country side as its African savannah, mountain and swamp ecoregions stretch across the horizon. Covering 2500 sq km, the park offers a different safari experience from neighbouring Tanzania and Kenya. Most species that are seen alongside each other in the latter two countries don t occur in the same pattern in Akagera. Some of the common game species that can be seen here include: the African elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, spotted hyena, giraffe, sparse populations of zebra, hippos, and some antelope species bushbuck, eland, impala and oribi. The park derives its life from the Kagera River that flows from Tanzania. Lake Kivu is Rwanda s great inland sea and a refreshing getaway in this landlocked country. It is a fresh water lake whose high altitude of 1472m makes it Africa s highest lake. With excellent views and picturesque panorama of surrounding mountains and rainforests, the lake serves 3 resort towns of Gisenyi, Kibuye and Cyangugu. At Gisenyi there is a marvellous inland beach that comes complete with palm trees, a tropical atmosphere and beach hotels. From the resorts, lots of adventure and activities to be enjoyed include: mountain biking, fishing, swimming, and a variety of water sports. Kigali is Rwanda s capital and largest city, and is centrally located within the country. Founded in 1907, it only achieved its capital status in 1962 at Rwanda s independence, beating two other prospects Nyanza and Butare. Over the years, Kigali has risen in status and today stands as Rwanda s commercial, transport and socio-political hub. It is served by an international airport- Rwanda s main entry and exit port just 10km from the city centre, and a road network that connects to the rest of the country. Kigali is a charming and picturesque city. Its stunning vistas rise and fall gently as the city rests on four haphazard ridges. The ridges ascend to average altitudes of 1600m above sea level, beautifully setting a throne-like platform for the city. As its peripheries race to blend into the hilly countryside, Mt. Kigali softly interrupts the horizon, peaking above the hills. The mountain peaks at 1850m making it the city s highest point. Sightseeing is Kigali s most appealing attraction. From one of the many high points, one can enjoy the scenic setting of the green rolling hills. Kigali in addition has numerous diversions: restaurants, souvenir and curio stores, local crafts markets, shopping centres, hotels, nightclubs and the Rwanda Natural Museum. The city bears the burden of hosting a most unique memorial site: the Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre at Gisozi. This is a national monument built upon a mass grave in which about 250,000 genocide victims were buried. The centre is very graphic and the mood is sombre; visitors cannot help but commiserate over the trauma Rwanda underwent in a short 3 month period in 1994 when an estimat-
ed 800,000 people were massacred. Several exhibitions and dark studios showcase among other things some of the victims bones and photos accompanied by sound play of their voices and cries. The experience is moving and the memory of it haunting. The site is a painful reminder to Rwanda and the world of the bitter harvest of schism and hate. Every April 7th since 2004, Rwanda remembers at Gisozi the victims of the events of 1994. Though the genocide is shocking and hardly comprehensible to outsiders, Rwanda has previously faced communal strife particularly in the last 50 or so years. In fact recognisable genocide of the Tutsi peoples occurred in 1959 when 100,000 perished, while another 10,000 were killed in 1963. The territory that is Rwanda today was originally inhabited by the Twa Pygmies - a forest huntergatherer community. They were joined and subsequently subdued by the agrarian Hutu a Bantu speaking people from the Congo basin, around the 11th century. The Hutu were subsequently followed by the pastoralist Bantu Tutsi people around 15th century AD. The Tutsi were quick to establish a well organised kingdom, headed by a king or mwami, whose headquarters was at Nyanza on Lake Kivu. With time, the Hutu were brought under the king s rule and the two groups merged to become the Banyarwanda. Rwanda then became a feudal Kingdom- of Tutsi cattle owning nobility and Hutu land tilling majority. The political monarchs and elite began to be referred to as Tutsi while the common masses became Hutu. Being Hutu or Tutsi ceased to be a matter of ethnicity but rather a socio-political status. If a Hutu acquired enough wealth, he automatically became Tutsi and if a Tutsi lost his wealth or status, he became a Hutu. The Banyarwanda mostly complied with this, though there was a small splinter group of Hutus who did not subject to the mwami. The mid 19th century brought the first European explorers to Rwanda, and afterwards a lot changed. The Germans came first around 1884, but were replaced by Belgians after the First World War. In classic divide and rule tactics, the Europeans were keen to maintain tensions between the Tutsi and Hutu. The Belgians in particular introduced an identity card system which recognized individuals by ethnicity and thus froze the earlier social mobility. Their open favouritism of the Tutsi over their Hutu countrymen further alienated the two groups, and was the basis for the civil strife that later metamorphosed into war and pogroms. The problem was that the elite Tutsi who dominated the army and other arms of state formed only 10% of the population, and without enlightened statesmanship any attempt at forming government under majority rule could seriously disadvantage the Tutsi and undermine the security of all. Sadly this was lacking in the period leading to independence in 1962, and even more so thereafter. Classification of peoples as in Apartheid South Africa gained in importance, and ethnic distinctions became a physical rather than a status issue. The much taller, leaner and lighter skinned Rwandans were labelled Tutsi, while their shorter more built and darker skinned kin were referred to as Hutu. The Hutu inevitably dominated government causing unease among the Tutsi. Up until the late 1980s, there were several uprisings and ethnic violence, resulting to a Tutsi led rebellion in 1990. After a long struggle, the two sides finally came together and signed the Arusha Peace Accord in 1993. The peace was fragile: it had been entered into reluctantly by both sides. On 6th April 1994, the plane
carrying the presidents of Rwanda and neighbouring Burundi- both Hutus, was shot down. Hutu extremists saw the hand of Tutsis in this simultaneous assassination of two heads of state. The very next day they declared a full scale war against all Tutsi and those seen as their sympathisers, such as moderate Hutu. What ensued was a rapid slaughter such as the world had never seen before. In a 100 days between April and July 1994 a dark cloud coalesced over the land of a thousand hills obscuring the face of God; terror reigned and unspeakable crimes were committed. As the cloud blew over, the Tutsi led Rwanda Patriotic Front (RPF) overran the extremist Hutu militia, bringing the genocide to a halt on July 15th. At the end of it all, an estimated 800,000 Tutsi and moderate Hutu, plus 10 UN Peacekeepers had been massacred. Fearing retaliation by the new masters, about 1.7 million Hutu sought safety in neighbouring DR Congo. The story of Rwanda is captured in three very emotional and moving films: the 2004 historical drama Hotel Rwanda ; the 2005 award winning film Sometimes in April and Nick Huges 100 Days. Sometimes in April was directed by Raoul Peck and was shot on location in Rwanda. It is remarkable how the country has risen from the ashes, and set itself on the path to recovery. The Rwanda of today is a story of hope and inspiration. Defying all odds, Rwanda has after the events of 1994 remained relatively calm in the troubled Great Lakes region of Africa. Travel is safe throughout the country, expect near the border areas with Burundi and the DR Congo -as conditions in these two countries are still volatile. Through the villages, visitors are treated to a sampling of Rwandan traditions and culture, topped by traditional performances of music and dance. Traditional handicrafts make good gifts and souvenirs; they range from woodcarvings, to basketry, ceramics, paintings and pottery and vary in symbolism. Most of these crafts among other antiquated national treasures are showcased at the National Museum in Butare. Rwanda is an excellent year round destination, except for a short period between March and May when the long rains come. The long dry season between May to October is the best time to visit as the clouds hold back and the weather is perfect even for photography. October to December sails through the short rains and December to March the short dry season. The north-eastern mountainous region is however unpredictable and it rains almost daily year through. Temperatures are moderate year round and range between lows to highs of 12-24 degrees Celsius. Visitors are advised to bring some warm clothing especially for the evenings. Long sleeved wear and some insect repellent will come in handy as the bugs can at times be a nuisance. Being a malaria zone, it is advisable to take precaution with anti-malaria prophylactics. It is best to choose with caution where you eat, and to stick to bottled water. Be warned that travellers cheques are rarely accepted here and most places take only cash in Rwandan francs or American dollars. Credit cards are a relatively new concept and may not be freely accepted. Exchange your money at the banks in Kigali; outside the capital, exchange rates may not be favourable. French and English speaking visitors to Rwanda will have a fairly easy time as the larger population of locals here speak either or both well. Kinyarwanda is the most widely spoken language, though
some Swahili is also spoken by many residents. Photo: Volcanoes National Park, Africa Geographic, May 2007