Uganda Trip Report, October 2017 Author: Kait Daly This past October I had the good fortune of leading an incredible Business Development Trip to Uganda with our partner Wild Frontiers. Myself, Evelyn from Wild Frontiers and four of our travel professional friends were treated to an eight-day safari. Our adventure included chimpanzee tracking in Kibale National Park, multiple game drives in Queen Elizabeth National Park, a boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel, and (who could forget) a THRILLING visit with the Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. The country s dramatic scenery, diverse wildlife, intimate safari lodges and warm people made for a rewarding travel experience. Uganda exceeded my greatest expectations for wildlife (both primates and game viewing), cultural opportunities and pure beauty. First off, I would like to thank Wild Frontiers Uganda for the opportunity to experience this trip of a life time. An extra special thanks to Jane and Paul Goldring, the owners of WF Uganda for trekking all the way out to Ishasha from Entebbe to meet with our group for a few hours just to drive straight back this is the type of personal and dedicated service that shines throughout the entire team. I also would like to thank our new sista Evelyn for escorting us for eight days around her beautiful country. I think we all cried when we hugged her goodbye which is a testament to the people who are Wild Frontiers! The whole operation was flawless from our guide JP to our safari vehicle (Wild Frontiers has a fleet of ten!) and the service at Ishasha and Buhoma. Everyone we encountered was enthusiastic and went above and beyond to give us the best experience possible.
Our itinerary: Day 1: Arrive in Entebbe and transfer to Boma Guest House. Day 2: Drive to Kibale Forest National Park and overnight at Ndali Lodge. Day 3: Chimp tracking in Kibale National Park. Day 4: Drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park with a luxury boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel enroute. Late afternoon game drive through Ishasha (TREE CLIMBING LIONS!) and overnight at Wild Frontiers Ishasha Wilderness Camp. Day 5: Bush breakfast followed by game drives in Ishasha National Park. Day 6: Morning game drive, stop at Agartha s Place and on to Bwindi National Park. Overnight at Wild Frontiers Buhoma Lodge. Day 7: Gorilla trekking in Bwindi Forest National Park. Community visits in Bwindi. Day 8: Drive to Kihihi airstrip for our scheduled flight to Entebbe. Outbound flight! Kibale Forest National Park WHERE ARE WE? Kibale adjoins Queen Elizabeth National Park in the south to create a 110-mile long corridor for wildlife between Ishasha, the remote southern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park, and Sebitoli in the north of Kibale National Park. The Kibale-Fort Portal area is one of Uganda s most rewarding destinations to
explore. The park lies close to the tranquil Ndali-Kasenda crater area and is within half a day s drive of the Queen Elizabeth National Park a natural route for those seeking all Uganda has to offer. WHY VISIT Kibale is famous for its chimpanzee tracking, an activity not to be missed! The park impressively is home to a total of 70 mammal species (including 13 primate species!) and over 375 species of birds. Walking through the park is a feast for the senses between the deafening cries of the chimps and the kaleidoscope of bright butterflies swarming you as you walk through the thick jungle. A chimp permit for Kibale National Park costs $150 per person per trek either in the morning or afternoon. The trek is INTENSE, and by intense I don t mean in terms of physical activity. Within 15 minutes we heard the first sounds of the chimps in the distance hearts pumping, we encountered them a mere 30 feet up the path there is no missing them. Their cries were so loud that it was almost scary. Our first sighting was of a male chimp attacking one of the females, an aggressive mating technique which is not uncommon. Within a
few minutes, the scene died down and we were frozen in time watching this sweet baby chimp swing from tree to tree while another infant clung safely to his mom higher up in the treetops. Throughout our two-hour trek, we encountered only one other small group of travelers and a community of about 15 chimps in total throughout the park. As with any wildlife experience, the quality of the sightings varies and we were very fortunate. The experience felt so personal and authentic it highly exceeded my expectations. WHERE TO STAY The most convenient place to spend the night is in the Primate Lodge Kibale. The lodge is located in the middle of the forest, exactly where you start the chimp tracking from. We stayed at the gorgeous Ndali Lodge, a boutique property about a 45-minute drive outside of the park, situated on one of the Crater Lakes. Between the thatched cottages (complete with resident pups!), the soaking tubs and incredible views, I highly recommend a stay here. Ndali Lodge, approximately 5 hour drive from Kampala and 40 minute drive from the airport at Kasese (charter flights only). Queen Elizabeth National Park WHERE ARE WE? Queen Elizabeth National Park is located in southwestern Uganda. It occupies an area of 764 square miles and is the most visited park in Uganda. QENP includes parts of Lakes Edward and George which are linked by Kazinga channel and other attractions. The park is a 5 to 6 hours drive from Kampala, the capital and largest city of Uganda flying is also an option. This Uganda safari park also includes the infamous Ishasha sector (where we stayed) which is north of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. WHY VISIT? Queen Elizabeth National Park is rich in wildlife and the scenery is dramatic, especially compared to other popular safari destinations in East Africa such as the Serengeti or the Mara. Here you will spot various game from leopards and lions to elephants and hyena as well as an incredible array of birdlife. There is
much to do here besides a land-based safari, including a boat ride down the Kazinga Channel. The Kazinga Channel is a wide, 20-mile long natural channel which is home to one of the world's largest concentration of hippos and Nile crocodiles. Here you can easily spot 60 species of birds in a mere two hour boat trip! A half day trip to Kazinga is a perfect pairing with the drive out to Ishasha. The Ishasha sector is notably recognized for its resident tree climbing lions that are among the highlights on all safaris taken within Queen Elizabeth National Park. The lions are often spotted hanging on branches of huge fig trees whereas the Uganda Kob (which are the major food to these lions) graze in the plains. Being here in October, you get the feeling that you are in your own little slice of safari paradise there are few other visitors with the exception of antelopes and elephants occasionally crossing your path. Bush Breakfast in Ishasha WHERE TO STAY Wild Frontiers Ishasha Wilderness Camp is conveniently situated in the heart of Queen Elizabeth National Park on the Ntungwe river, right in the middle of the action. The camp s ten Meru Style canvas tented rooms have a private veranda overlooking the river and are comfortably furnished with huge mosquito netted beds. Each accommodation has en suite bathrooms with hot bush showers and eco-friendly toilets. Ishasha Wilderness Camp is the perfect pit stop on the way to track the gorillas of Bwindi.
Watching a migration of 200 elephants sweep across the park as the sun set, right outside Ishasha Wilderness Camp. We were the only vehicle around and the plains were quiet with the exception of the elephants trumpets. It was extremely moving! Bwindi Forest National Park WHERE ARE WE? Bwindi Forest National Park is located in southwestern Uganda, on the edge of the Great Rift Valley. Commonly referred to as the Impenetrable Forest, Bwindi is bordered by the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) on the western side with Kabale in the south-east. From Ishasha, the drive takes about 4-5 hours. Twice daily scheduled light-aircraft flights land at the nearby Kihihi airstrip approximately 90-120 minutes drive from Buhoma, depending upon road conditions. It is also possible to charter a flight to Kihihi from Entebbe or various locations around Uganda or other major hubs in East Africa. Dating back over 25,000 years, Bwindi s 200 square miles of pristine forest is one of the oldest, rarest and most diverse ecosystems in Africa. Bwindi protects at least 120 species of mammals, 350 species of birds, 310 species of butterflies and 200 species of trees. We are in the jungle!
We stayed in the Buhoma Section of the park which is a very popular destination for tourists. Not only is it very close to Queen Elizabeth National Park and Kibale National Park, but it is the place where gorilla trekking in Uganda originated. WHY VISIT? Bwindi is home to almost half of the world s mountain gorilla population, and a visit with incredible animals is undoubtedly the main attraction. The Impenetrable Forest protects an estimated 400 mountain gorillas including several habituated groups, which can be tracked. A maximum of eight people are allowed to track each gorilla family at any given time in order to conserve their natural habitat and keep them safe from infections. The duration of the trek depends on the family allocated and their location. However, once you reach the gorilla family you are limited to one hour with them watching in awe. Permits are required to be obtained in advance and cost $600 per trek. The Buhoma region has the oldest habituated gorilla family in the whole of Bwindi the Mubare group. Other gorilla families that can be trekked from Buhoma region of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park include the Rushegura and Habinyanja Groups. On our last day in Uganda, we set out to track the Habinyanja family The actual trek can take anywhere from 30 minutes to eight hours, so a porter was a must. Not only was hiring the porter for the day very reasonably priced ($15 USD!) but I felt better knowing that I was giving back to the community, if only for a few hours. After 45 minutes of trekking through the wild jungle (the guides literally cut through paths with their machetes!), we spotted our first gorilla. No one can prepare you for the surreal and spiritual experience you re about to encounter it s out of this world watching these (almost-too) human-like creatures exist in their natural habitat as you quietly spectate a few meters away. We were fortunate to spend the hour with five adult gorillas including the male Silverback and two babies one of which was only a few months
old and extremely playful. I was amazed at how close we were able to get and how relaxed the gorillas were in our presence. Buhoma Lodge COMMUNITY VISITS WHERE TO STAY There is a wide variety of accommodation options in the Buhoma area from 2* to 5*. We stayed at Wild Frontiers Buhoma Lodge which is one of only two lodges situated within the National Park. The private, 10 tree-house style accommodations have commanding views of the forest and are in an ideal location of the park a quick five-minute walk from the meeting point for gorilla trekking and other activities in the area. The gorilla trekking was an awesome highlight of my trip, but our community visits were equally as special for me. While we were in Buhoma, we spent the afternoon familiarizing ourselves with the town and its various community projects. We visited the Batwa Pygmies the original people of the rainforest. They lead a simple and harmonious way of life without farming or livestock keeping. They simply rely on the Rainforest for their existence and only take what is needed. The tribe plays a significant role in preserving Uganda s cultural traditions. It was humbling to witness the rich cultural heritage that these people hold and cherish. Batwa tribe Kaywa Positive ladies We also met with the women of the HIV+ Kaywa Positive Women s Community Group, who shared their personal stories of coping with HIV. These incredibly brave ladies provide an invaluable resource to women in the local Bwindi community through empowerment, inspiration, support and education. We ended the day with a song and dance alongside the students of the St. Mathew Nursery and Primary School. The small school is located at the base of Bwindi
National Forest and is dedicated to educating about 200 local children between the ages of six and 15. The school is run by the local adult community and provides education and hot food for local students, as well as caring for several orphans within the community. It was eye-opening to learn that for only $80 a month a whole classroom could be fed. For a mere $7 would cover the costs for one school uniform (several of the children we met were without)! It was really wonderful to see how involved Wild Frontiers is with the local communities and I encourage each of your guests to take part in these very important projects. For more information on any of the above initiatives, or any questions on Uganda, please email kait@kainyc.com. Nap time at St. Mathew's