Over the Pyreneees The safe alternative is the one out of ST J on the D 933 (this is the one witch is at the side which says: Rive de Arneguy ). You opt for the red tarmac road with sometimes lorries and even in winter or early spring it may be closed for those lorries on account of snow. You just continue to Valcarlos (with a gasoline station and a supermarket) and there you carry on, however now you find another indication and that is a footpath, which is announced with the logo of the star and pilgrim. This leads you on a track that intersects at times with the former called D 933. Just continue as you like on the tarmac or on the track fro that spot on to Roncevalles (first you will pass the monument of Roland) The other routes are more or less over the mountain and the small design gives a reasonable good account of it. However you have still options. The best thing is to follow D428, which leads out of St Jean as you can see: it starts with a steep climb. Stay on this Road toll you see the point where it intersects with the red GR 65 point which says cabaña. An old woman used to live there with her dogs. Now you continue but you will see the red/white stripes of the GR marked along the tarmac and at certain points makes a shortcut. Keep in mind at you should see them now and them if you re not following that track from there.
You re already quit high by now. You meet sheep, horses and eagles. Even pilgrims. The sights are breathtaking. Opposite the point to the right of pic d Hostataguy there is the cross with Maria. Pay attention that you should verge there to the right. Just above the word Elhursaro you see a road to yes indeed. So do not take that. Keep on the road just above the point, which said: Pc Leizar Atheke. This is the point I earlier mentioned; you now take a trail to the right passing a cross with a fence some 200 metres from the road. You head for the mountain pics there and in between you come o the birder fence with barbed wire. Keep this to your right hand and you come to the fountain I send you a photo of. Keep low there still holding to the border and valley at your right. From there on it s plain sailing and you will also see the Spanish indicators of yellow fleches ( flechas ). The other option is the GR 65 option as you see it in red indicated leaving St. J. It s a lovely trail but rather difficult especially the last part just before it comes to the tarmac. The rest is the same. You can opt for a small intersection and shortcut at Honto as you see on the map where you leave the road. On top where there are wider roads and eventually you will go down to Roncevalles there is also GR 11, beware of that. Do not be mistaken if you opt for the red and white indicated GR 65 NOT to take the GR 10 out of St Jean. Happy hunting!
Tackling the mountain! General: The walk from St Jean to Roncevalles is 27.4 km you have to climb for 1300 metres and to descend for 900 metres. There are no refuges you're in open country- and there is only one hamlet (Honto (5.2 km)). It has no shop, but I assume you can buy some food things there too. Beware of the weather factor. (Ask in the refugio or the locals) Never walk alone there. Be more or less rested before you leave! If in doubt stay another day in St Jean of follow the suggestion to go to Honto (book in advance (05 59 37 11 17) this is not a refugio but a "gite" so can book there (if in trouble ask the tourist board (centre of town, main square) to do it for you!)) There is now a new gite a few miles onwards called Orrison ( onto Roncevalles) Preparations: Know were you're going. Be familiar what to expect and look on a map to see where you're going. Nothing is worse than the feeling of getting lost with some physical problems into the bargain. Buy some food also for the next day, (the first bar is in Burgeute at 3 km's from Roncevalles) for there is no shop or breakfast in Roncevalles unless you stay in a hotel there- in St Jean or Bayonne/Pamplona. Sugary things/chocolate things and some biscuits. You find several small shops in St Jean. Even a "traiteur" (Cross the river and head for Arneguy; it's on your right-hand opposite a car park between a baker- find some nice things there too- and a bank.) Site for pieces of pizza, ham and other good things. Have some water with you (at least 1 pet bottle). You might consider buying a walking stick, but perhaps with All these "new things" going on, it's too much. Have some Compeed or Moleskin with you for preventive taping. Have all your things in your backpack in plastic bags needs by needs-. Have a camera (and film) all wrapped up in a mere plastic bag preventing rain or dust coming in- and water and some biscuits and toilet paper ready in a daypack at your belt, so there is no need to take off your back pack. Setting Out: If staying in a hotel; settle your account that night. So you can leave early! Start as early as possible (still twilight). Have some kind of breakfast before you leave. (A drink and a bite at least). Do not tighten you shoelaces too much, you feet will swell! Do not start in F1 pole postion. Start easy and enjoy. Adjust your backpack on going up (more or less
immediately) going up take smaller paces than you used to. The momentum of transferring weight is harder on your knees and more difficult when not done so. Walk for half an hour and have a 5 minutes rest. Or one hour and 10 minute to a quarter of an hour rest Keep eating and drinking when you go some sultanas and nuts will do very nicely- drink some sips of water even if you're not hungry -. Never see the moment you'll "behind schedule" and feeling thirsty, hungry and dizzy. If so take a rest have some sugary things and a drink. Do not gulp; just few sips at a time. After 3 hours have a good stop. If the weather is fine enjoy it. Have your goodies and enjoy a semilunch. If you want adjust your shoestrings. If blister are coming up or you feeling pressure points, consider "preventive taping" have a look at your map to see where you are. (And where to go now) After 20 mutes start again oops and head on. If you're getting in trouble walking. Set yourself a goal.! That rock or tree in the distance for next rest if there reconsider to have another goal. And so on! Keep nibbling biscuits, nuts and an occasional sip of water. Your body is your motor to get you to Fisterra so keep it fuelled, do not wait to get the "red light". By now you must be approaching the "Cruz" of Maria. Do not be tempted in bad weather to take a road to the right a little bit earlier as this takes you down the mountain to the river and Arneguy. It's only UP. Have a rest there or keep to your schedule. Certainly look back on the distances you already made and on the wonderful scenery (if there). Never try to keep up with other pilgrims. Maintain your own speed! About midday depending on your time of departure you must be seeing the cross at your right hand side in the grass that leads you off the tarmac into a grass track, that leads between to rocks to a barbed wire fence (the border) and continue. The very border is marked with a fountain. Enjoy your lunch there. Take of your backpack and check your feet (if your in a habit of doing so; some people prefer not to take there shoes off till all is done). Put your feet up and enjoy a good rest! (If possible) Readjust your shoelaces if necessary. Loosen you backpack on the shoulders a bit as it's no going up so stiffly anymore while you walk partly under trees. For a good hour you will stay after passing the border more or less on the same altitude and then a track leads you down into the woods (below you can see the grey slates of Roncevalles) Readjust you shoelaces so to prevent your feet (toes) to shift to the front of your shoe. Loosen your
backpack shoulder things to have the backpack more lose and acting as a counterweight. Break your way by making "z "courses. If you have a stick it's an extra brake. It might be rather slippery! Continue drinking and nibbling. Sugar might be of great help to you here as you're draining your resources by now! Coming down you'll find the river and cross it, coming into the main square. The pilgrim's office is on your right hand side and opens at four. Congratulation: you've made it! Ultreya! For maps or other information please email me off list pieterpannevis@gmx.net