Unveiled Sudan
Omdurman, located in the capitol s suburbs. The Sufis, all dressed in green, come here every week to celebrate their saints.
The sufis start spinning, arms spread out wide, and their eyes half closed. They will do so until they wear out, under the spell of devotion and egged on by the crowd s cheers...until they collapse!
Egypt doesn t have the monopoly on pyramids. The Sudan has many of them, and discovers new ones regularly. The most beautiful and impressive pyramids form the Meroe necropolis.
The Tous summits les sommets of all the des pyramids pyramides have been ont été blown dynamités. off with dynamite. L œuvre This de is the work of the Italian explorer Giuseppe Ferlini, who in 1834 came l explorateur and pillaged italien the Giuseppe site, taking Ferlini away qui, priceless en 1834, treasures. est venu pillé le site.
Bayuda desert.two hundred camels walking their groovy walk, accompanied by five camel drivers. Abdul, their chief, explains that they ve come from Kordofan, a region in the south, and that they re going to Egypt to sell the animals.
Karima seen from Jebel Barkal. in the middle, river Nile.
El Kurru, some pyramids are still half-buried pyramids. You can hardly make them out due to the erosion and sand.
El Kurru tomb,osiris is represented lying down, mummified.
Hive tombs in ld Dongola. Made of bricks, they contain religious dignitaries and appear in the desert in groups of ten. The visit inside is cut short by a bunch of bats attacking me.
Old Dongola has another surprise: on the banks of the Nile I come across the remains of a church. Discovered as late as 1964, Dongola is the most important medieval Nubian culture site.
Traditionally, the water is available to everyone, but I decline the offer: it comes straight from the Nile!
Recently, the Sudan has caught gold fever. Thousands of amateur gold diggers have come from all over the country. A 24-kilo gold nugget was found in Akhanag, and ever since it s been the gold rush.
On I m invited passe d abord to go to à buy la caisse shirt pour buttons. acheter When des they boutons see my de astonishment, chemises. Puis they on explain va les that échanger I can use au them cuisiner to barter contre with des the plats chef locaux for local : haricots, dishes: beans, patates, potatoes, ragout, stew, pain bread
Soleb temple site, discovered in 1844 and which is the work of Amenhotep, the architect of the Luxor temple. Once night falls, the full moon s light makes the site seem unreal and magical.
Nubian houses. They are short and split into two: one side for men and guests, the other side for women.
In the middle of the sea, at about 30 kilometers from the banks, there s an amazing lagoon containing a 70-meter high lighthouse. The zone has been categorized as a National Park and contains unique coral reefs and marine fauna.
The old town of Suakin. It is estimated that trading started over 3000 years ago in the port. The Egyptians, followed by the Ottomans, took over the place and turned it into a town that appears to be right out of the tales of the 1001 nights.
In the 1930s, the town has been abandoned for Port Sudan and has dwindled into ruin even since.
The Rashaidas.They have a very bad reputation. They are said to be thieves, human traffickers, armed and uncontrollable! They came from Saudi Arabia over a hundred years ago and remain pure Arabs.
Kassala, Khatmiyah mosque. Beja warriors amused by the presence of a foreigner on their territory, start jumping around with their sabers.
It s 45 C, and the entrance of the two teams, National Unity and Peace and Development drives the crowd even wilder.
Nuba wrestling tournament. It s an art form that is over 3000 years old and which is said to have to been very effective against the slave traders during raids.
Words and pictures Eric Lafforgue +33633053451 lafforgue@mac.com