Welcome to Chile Information Guide Columbia Global Centers / Latin America (Santiago) May 30, 2013
TABLE OF CONTENTS Contacts 2 Quick Facts About Chile.. 3 Public Holidays for 2013.. 4 Useful Tips... 6 Emergency Information 7 Seismic Protocol... 8 Currency Information...... 10 Communication... 13 Transportation.. 14 Shopping... 17 Chilean Etiquette.. 18 Exploring Santiago 19 Exploring Chile... 25 Local Food.. 27 Useful Information... 29 1
Contacts COLUMBIA GLOBAL CENTERS LATIN AMERICA (SANTIAGO) Location: Av. Dag Hammarskjold 3269, 1st floor. Vitacura, Santiago - Chile Phone: +56-22-2283600 Email: santiago.cgc@columbia.edu http://globalcenters.columbia.edu/content/santiago-chile# Director: Karen Poniachik Email: kponiachik@gmail.com Mobile Phone: +56-982991210 Program Coordinator: Paula Pacheco Email: paupachecoflangan@gmail.com Mobile Phone: +56-9 6 1347825 A: Ebro RentaHome. B: Global Center Columbia (FLACSO Building). 2
Quick Facts about Chile Chile is located along the Pacific Ocean on the southernmost tip of South America s west coast. The country borders with Argentina in the East, and with Peru and Bolivia in the North. Chile extends longitudinally for over 4,000 kilometers but averages only 150 kilometers wide. It is a long and narrow with varied geography from North to South. In the North, the Atacama Desert is the driest in the world. Chile s southern region has forests, volcanoes and mountains, as well as glaciers and fjords. Central Chile holds most of the country s population, including capital, Santiago. The central region enjoys a Mediterranean climate, has plenty of beaches and is home to agricultural activities. Easter Island and Juan Fernandez Archipelago off Chile s coast are also part of the national territory, as is the Chilean territory in Antarctic with an area of 1,267,723 km2. Mountains cover about 80% of the country, with the Andes Mountains running along Eastern Chile. Chile is a seismic zone (see Seismic Protocol page 8), located along the Pacific Ring of Fire. There are more than 30 active volcanoes, notably Lascar and Llaima. The Country is divided into 15 geographical regions (called Regiones ), each headed by an Intendente appointed by the President of the Republic. The regions are further divided into provinces, with provincial governors also appointed by the President. Finally, each province is divided into communes [270] who are administered by municipalities, each with its own mayor and council elected for four-year terms. Each region is designated by a name and a Roman numeral, assigned from north to south. The only exception is the Santiago Metropolitan Region which is designated RM (Región Metropolitana). Two new regions were created in 2006 and became operative in October 2007: Los Ríos in the South (Region XIV), and Arica y Parinacota in the extreme north (Region XV). The numbering scheme skipped Region XIII. Climate. The climate of Central Chile is of temperate Mediterranean type, with the amount of rainfall increasing considerably and progressively from North to South. In the Santiago area, the average monthly temperatures are about 19.5 C in the summer months of January and February and 7.5 C in the winter months of June and July. The average monthly precipitation is no more than a trace in January and February and 69.7 millimeters in winter. By contrast, in Concepción the average monthly temperatures are somewhat lower in the summer at 17.6 C but higher in the winter at 9.3 C, and the amount of rain is much greater. It is important to note that the Chilean Central Area is being affected by a severe drought this year. The climate of Chile comprises a wide range of weather conditions across a large geographic scale, extending across 38 degrees in latitude, making generalizations difficult. According to the Köppen system (http://koeppe http://koeppen-geiger.vu geiger.vu- wien.ac.at/), Chile within its borders hosts at least seven major climatic subtypes, ranging from desert in the north, to alpine tundra and glaciers in the east and southeast, humid subtropical in Easter Island, Oceanic in the south and Mediterranean climate in central Chile. 3
There are four marked seasons in most of the country: Summer (December to February), Fall (March to May), Winter (June to August), and Spring (September to November). Terrain. Low coastal mountains; fertile central valley; rugged Andes in East. Demography Population: 16,136,000 (2012 census, preliminary figure) Total Area: 756,096 square kilometers (291,930 square miles) Capital: Santiago (5,623,000 Hab.) Other large cities Viña del Mar (303,100 Hab.) Valparaíso (865,000 Hab.) Talcahuano (252,800 Hab.) Temuco (247,200 Hab.) Concepción (217,600 Hab.) Public Holidays for 2013 (June- September period) Saturday, June 29: San Pedro y San Pablo (religious). Tuesday, July 16: Día de la Virgen del Carmen (religious). Thursday, August 15: Asunción de la Virgen (religious). Wednesday, September 18; National Independence Day public holiday. Thursday, September 19: Día de las Glorias del Ejército public holiday. Friday, September 20: Fiestas Patrias public holiday. 4
Quick Facts about Santiago Santiago is the capital of Chile and the center of its largest conurbation. It is located in the country's central valley, at an elevation of 520 m (1,706.04 ft.) above mean sea level. Founded in 1541, Santiago has been the capital city since colonial times. The city boasts a downtown core of 19th Century neoclassical architecture and winding side-streets, dotted by art deco, neo-gothic, and other styles. Santiago's cityscape is shaped by several stand-alone hills and the fast-flowing Mapocho River, lined by elegant parks such as Parque Forestal. The imposing Andes Mountains can be seen from most points in the city. These mountains have caused it to develop a considerable smog problem, particularly during the winter months. The city outskirts are surrounded by vineyards, and Santiago is within a few hours of both the mountains and the Pacific Ocean. Santiago's steady economic growth over the past few decades has transformed it into a modern metropolis. The city is now home to growing theater and restaurant scenes, extensive suburban development, dozens of shopping centers, and a rising skyline, including the tallest building in Latin America, the Gran Torre Santiago. It includes several major universities, and has developed a modern transportation infrastructure, including a free flow toll-based, partly underground urban highway system and the Metro de Santiago, South America's most extensive subway system. Santiago is the cultural, political, and financial center of Chile and is home to the regional headquarters of many multinational corporations. The Chilean Executive and Judicial powers are located in Santiago, but Congress meets in the nearby city of Valparaíso. General Information Useful Numbers Police: 133 Fire Department: 132 Ambulance: 131 Radio Taxi Vitacura: (+ 56 2) 226417775 Radio Taxis Las Condes: (+ 56 2) 22114470 Radio Taxi Apoquindo: (+ 56 2) 22106200 5
Useful Tips Be sure to have a valid visa in case you need one. U.S. citizens do not require one, but they do need to pay a reciprocity fee of US$ 160 upon arriving at the Santiago airport. General office hours are Monday to Friday from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm (the legal work-week is 45 hours). Banks are only open to the public from 9:00 am to 2:00 pm. Lunch breaks are normally one hour long, although business lunches sometimes can take up to two hours. The local value added tax (I.V.A) is currently at 19% and is already included in the price of all goods and services. Electricity in Chile is 220 Volts, alternating at 50 cycles per second. If you travel to Chile with a device that does not accept 220 Volts at 50 Hertz, you will need a voltage converter. Outlets generally accept only one type of plug with two round pins. If your appliances plug has a different shape, you may need a plug adapter. It will be very cold during June and July in Santiago, so make sure that you bring warm clothing, including a heavy coat or parka. During the winter season, Santiago will have exactly the same time as the Eastern Standard Time (EST). Strict anti-smoking legislation has been recently enacted in Chile: Be aware that there is no smoking allowed in restaurants or bars, public buildings and any other closed space. You can be fined by municipal authorities if you break these rules. As in any thriving democracy, the pre-election period is very active in terms of demonstrations by different interest groups, including students, environmentalists, and gay rights activists. We strongly urge you do not get involved in these demonstrations even if you sympathize with the demands of those participating in them. Demonstrations can get violent in some occasions and you do not want to get caught by tear gas or water cannons. Not many people speak English, so make sure to carry a card with the name and address in Spanish of the hotel in which you will be staying to show it to a taxi driver. We recommend you do not drink tab water in Chile. There are plenty of brands of bottled water available in kiosks, supermarket and convenience stores. It is very important you use sunblock and sunglasses for protection from harmful effects of UV sun rays, even if the day is not sunny. 6
Emergency Information Hospitals. It is important to understand the terms "Hospital" and "Clinic" used in Chile. A 'hospital' is public; a 'clínica' is private. The latter offers a diversity and quality of services as good as or better than a hospital. Generally speaking, the environment and treatment will be much better in a clínica. Both them generally have emergency rooms that take patients by order of arrival. At an ER in a Clinica, you'll be asked to pay for the visit. When researching private health insurance in June 2012, the author of this section was told that there are five "base" hospitals in Santiago which each have all the medical services available in Chile. Some of them: Hospital Clínico de la Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile; 400m East of Metro - Santa Lucia, line 1, website: http://redsalud.uc.cl/link.cgi/hospital/hospitalclinico/ Hospital Clínico de la Universidad de Chile; 500m northwest of Metro - Cerro Blanco, line 2, website: http://www.redclinica.cl/ Hospital Militar, La Reina; 3km east of Metro - Plaza Egaña, line 4, on Ave. Larraín, website: http://www.hosmil.cl/ *Clínica Alemana website: http://portal.alemana.cl/wps/wcm/connect/internet/home *Clínica Las Condes website: http://www.clinicalascondes.cl/ *Clínica Santa María website: http://www.clinicasantamaria.cl/ (*) Main private hospitals in Chile that are accredited by The American Hospital Association and meet metro standards. Both have international patient departments and experience with some international insurance. Pharmacies. In Chile are a great resource for travelers, as most pharmacists are well-informed and many medications are sold over-the-counter at relatively low cost. While it is inappropriate to abuse this system, it is helpful to know that many drugs which require prescriptions in other countries do not require them in Chile. Note however, that pharmaceuticals do not have directions on the box, so be sure to ask the pharmacist for complete and detailed instructions. 24 four hours Pharmacies can be found at the following website http://www.minsal.gob.cl/portal/url/page/minsalcl/g_varios/farmacias_turno/farmacias.html 7
Seismic Protocol: Chile lies in an active seismic zone and is prone to major earthquakes, landslides, tsunamis, and volcanic eruptions. An earthquake is a material event which is caused by the sudden release of energy due to the slipping of the Earth s crust. Some of this energy is irradiated in all directions through elastic or seismic waves, which are perceived as vibrations of the ground. After an earthquake, a series of other earthquakes are likely to occur, of similar or lesser intensity, near the epicenter of the main earthquake. These little earthquakes are called aftershocks. Most of the deaths and injuries during an earthquake are due to walls collapsing, pieces of glass shattering and other falling objects. The shaking of the earth can rarely be the main cause. Being prepared for earthquakes hazards is up to all of us. Below you will find a list of recommendations to deal with an emergency of this kind the best way possible. In case of an earthquake, stay indoors until it has stopped and you are sure that exiting is not dangerous. Most of injuries occur when people are hit by falling objects when they try to go in or try to leave. If you are at home, at work or at school, cover yourself by getting under a table, desk, a strong bench or in an inside corner of the building. You must stay away from glass, windows and anything that could fall and injure you over. If you are in bed, stay there and cover your head with a pillow to protect yourself from things that could fall. Drop, cover and hold on until the earthquake stops. Then move to a nearby safe place. If you are on a wheelchair, try to move to a safe place under a doorframe. If you can t do that, lock the wheelchair brakes and cover your head with your arms. Do not use the elevator. If you are outdoors, stay there. Stay away from buildings, streetlights and electricity wires. If you are using public transportation (bus or subway) and you are standing, hold on to the handrail. If you are sitting, stay that way and wait for the instructions to evacuate. If you are driving a vehicle, do not stop on a bridge or a tunnel. Reduce speed of the vehicle progressively and park in a safe place away from streetlights, trees, road signs, electricity wires and stay in the car. If you are cooking, switch the oven off and cover yourself. In case you are at a crowded place (theater, movie theater, stadium, subway, etc.), keep calm and do not rush to the doors. Wait for the instructions to evacuate. 8
Seismic Protocol - After You must be prepared for aftershocks, which in general are less violent than the main earthquake but they can be strong enough to cause additional damage to already weakened structures. These aftershocks can occur even months after the earthquake. Do not walk without shoes because there can be glass and other sharp objects on the floor. Turn off the gas to avoid leaks and call a professional to turn it back on. If you are in a place that has been damaged by the earthquake, evacuate to the safe zone. If the electricity goes off, use flashlights. Do not use candles, matchsticks or flames indoors because there may be some gas leaks. Stay away from the street. If you have to go outdoors after an earthquake, you have to pay attention because objects from damaged structures can fall over, like walls, bridges, etc. Use the phone only for emergencies. Clean up spilled toxic elements like alcohol, oil, gasoline, etc. Open cabinets cautiously because objects can fall out of them. Stay informed through a battery-operated radio or television to listen to the instructions from the authorities. If you are trapped in the rubble: Do not use matchsticks. Do not move or stir up dust. Cover your mouth with a handkerchief or with your clothes. Do not scream because you can inhale dangerous amounts of dust. Stay away from the damaged area, unless the Police, the Fire Brigade or other welfare organization ask you for help. Do not use the bathroom unless it is safe and the sewage system is not damaged. Prepare yourself for a natural disaster by consulting the websites of the U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (http://www.fema.gov/) and Chile's Oficina Nacional de Emergencia (http://www.onemi.cl/en.html). More Information: http://www.onemi.cl/en/risk/earthquake.html 9
Currency Information The peso is the currency of Chile and the symbol used locally for it is $ while its ISO 4217 code is CLP. The current peso has circulated since 1975. It is subdivided into 100 centavos, although no centavo denominated coins remain in circulation. The average exchange rate of the Chilean peso to the U.S. dollar was 1 U.S. dollar = $ 500 Chilean pesos as May 30, 2013. The current online exchange rate can be found at http://www.bcentral.cl/index.asp The bills are denominated in $ 20 thousand, $ 10 thousand, $ 5 thousand, $ 2 thousand and $ 1 thousand. There are 500, 100, 50 and 10 pesos coins.. Exchange. The automatic teller machine (ATM) network in Chile is respectable in coverage. Individual machines are located in most malls, supermarkets and convenience stores, are all connected to the same service and enable standard transactions. Be aware that different banks will charge you different amounts of money for extracting cash and you will be advised on the screen of the surcharge. The normal fee is around $2,500. You can change money upon your arrival to the airport, in your hotel or in the city because there are no significant differences; you can also pay with U.S. dollars or foreign credit cards in a number of places. Where. Branches of banks (recommended), money exchange houses, Chilean International Airport, hotel s foreign exchange desk. Exchange Rate: The exchange rate may vary each day (not significantly) but it is displayed on the big screen of banks with and money exchanges houses. Please note that there is a slight difference between the online rate and the rate at the counter Please do not forget to take your passport with you and NEVER accept offers in the street. Bank Account. Wire transfers in CLP and any hard currency are available from Pac Net Services offices and Accu- Rate Corp. The currency received by the beneficiary will be governed by the currency of the receiving account. Typical delivery time is one business day, but delays may occur if there is an intermediary bank. To initiate a wire transfer to Chile, the information required is the payee s name, address, full account number, SWIFT code, branch name and address. Credit Cards. Most international credit cards are accepted in Chile: Master Card, Visa, American Express, and Dinners Card. When venturing into more remote regions it is advisable to carry sufficient cash, as ATMs with international network access may not be available. We suggest you consult with your bank before departing to make sure that your brand of credit card will be accepted in Chile. 10
Chilean Bills (Rate as of May 30) Twenty Thousand Pesos ($ 20.000) - US$= 40,86 Ten Thousand Pesos ($ 10.000) US$= 20,43 Five Thousand Pesos ($ 5.000) US$= 10,22 Two Thousand Pesos ($ 2.000) US$= 4,09 One Thousand Pesos ($ 1.000 US$ 2,04 (Called una luca ) 11
Chilean s Coins Five Hundred Pesos ($ 500) One Hundred Pesos ($ 100) Called una gamba Fifty Pesos ($ 50) Ten Pesos ($ 10) Five Pesos ($ 5) One Peso ($ 1) Note: The $1 and $5 peso coins are quite obsolete in Chile. 12
Communications How to make phone calls from/in Chile? To call the U.S. from Chile: Please bear in mind that all long-distance phone calls in Chile are routed through private telecommunications companies whose prefixes need to be used when you place the call. Following is a list of the most often used long-distance companies/prefixes: Manquehue 122 Entel 123 Movistar 181 AT&T 155 So, if, for example you were placing a call to the United States using: Movistar, you would dial 181+ 01 + Area Code in the U.S. + Telephone Number. Entel, you would have to dial 123+01+Area Code + Telephone Number. Main Area Codes are, Chile: 56 and then: For Santiago: 2 For Concepcion: 41 For Valparaiso: 32 For calls to a mobile from a mobile dial: +569 + the local eight-digit mobile number which starts with 9, 8, 7 or 6. For calls to a mobile from a fixed local line dial 09 + the local eight-digit mobile number which starts with 9, 8, 7 or 6. Mobile phones. Prepaid cards for mobile phones and landlines are sold at most newspaper kiosks, supermarkets, gas stations, pharmacies and phone dealers. They are called teléfono de pre-pago in Spanish. A basic prepaid phone usually costs about $15,000 pesos and is most frequently charged with $10,000 pesos worth of prepaid minutes. No ID is required to buy one. Mobile GSM networks are ubiquitous in all major cities and most of the territory of central and southern Chile. Money can be charged into a mobile phone from almost any ATM using a credit or debit card and from some pharmacies (Ahumada, Cruz Verde and Salco Brand) on the counter and in cash. Internet. In hotels and many public places you can access free Wi-Fi requesting the password. Wi-Fi hotspots are commonly found in many parts of Chile; though people have increasingly figured out they should secure them. http://www.wificafespots.com/wifi/country/chile 13
Transportation By plane. Chile has a rather good airport infrastructure. The main hub for flights in Chile is the Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport (SCL) in Santiago, from where several airlines serve even the remotest corners of the country. These airlines are all local: LAN Airlines, Sky Airline and Principal Airlines. When travelling within Chile, please consider reserving your tickets before entering the country: flight coupons are recommended and can be bought at LAN when you also purchase your flight to/from Chile with them. Because of the shape of the country, many routes are subject to several time-consuming layovers. You might take this into account as you can have up to 4 stops en route to your destination! (E.g. for a flight from Punta Arenas to Arica you may have stops at Puerto Montt, Santiago, Antofagasta and Iquique). Domestic routes are served by Airbus 318, Airbus 319 and Airbus 320 when flying with LAN, and Boeing 737-200s when flying Sky Airline. The only airline flying to Easter Island is LAN Airlines from Santiago. Other remote locations are served by regional airlines. In the Extreme South, Aerovías DAP offer daily routes from Punta Arenas to Porvenir in Tierra del Fuego and Puerto Williams. To Robinson Crusoe Island, there are weekly flights from Santiago and Valparaiso. By bus. The bus system is pretty sophisticated and provides a cheap and comfortable way to get from town to town. Keep in mind that local companies will usually stop at many stations along the way. However, you can always ask if there's a non-stop or direct service. Companies that cover almost the entire country include Turbus (https://www.turbus.cl/wtbus/indexcompra.jsf https://www.turbus.cl/wtbus/indexcompra.jsf) and Pullman Bus (http://www.v http://www.ventapasajes.cl/pullmanbus/ entapasajes.cl/pullmanbus/). In Santiago, you can find both terminals and more companies on Universidad de Santiago subway station. Keep in mind that prices vary on a daily basis, so are usually more expensive on weekends and holidays tickets than on weekdays. Ticket prices are also almost always negotiable - don't be shy to ask for a discount, especially if you are in a group. The quality of service varies quite a lot. Check if the bus is "cama" (bed), "semi-cama" (heavily inclining seats) or ejecutivo (executive - slightly inclining seat). By Micro. Micro = transit/local buses. The word is the contraction of microbus. Larger cities have cross-town bus routes at very affordable prices. Only Santiago's system, called "Transantiago", has maps http://www.transantiago.cl/laciudad/mapas/ with all the routes, so a little bit of Spanish and the audacity to ask around can get you places effectively in other major cities. To travel by "micro" in Santiago you will need to buy before a smart contactless travel-card called "BIP" and charge it with money. You can do so in any subway station, in most supermarkets and in some smaller stores. This card also allows you to travel by subway in Santiago. Be careful! You won't be able to travel by bus without money in your BIP card. The card costs US$ 2.70, and a ticket costs a little over US$ 1.00, which allows you to make up to four transfers between metro and buses within a 2-hour time period. You only need to scan the card at the beginning of your journey and at every transfer. You should hop off the "micro" through the back doors. 14
By Colectivo. A mix between a micro and a taxi. These small cars have routes indicated by a sing placed on the roof of the car, and get around quicker and more comfortably. Fares are similar to those on the Micro, and depend on the hour. By Taxi. Taking a taxi in Chile is safe and relatively cheap. The black cars with their yellow roofs can be hailed anywhere. In Santiago, there is a base price of 250 pesos (USD 0.50) plus around 250 clp for each 200 m driven (or per minute when waiting). The rates are posted on the windscreen; the meter has to be where you can see it. For longer hauls or cross-country, you can negotiate a price beforehand. Tipping is not customary. You cannot rely on the drivers' sense of orientation, often they barely know their way around. You can request a radiotaxi by phone to pick you up from your house (Yellow Pages under 'Taxi'). By Metro. A metropolitan railway system operating in Santiago and Valparaíso. It is a reliable way to move around in the city. You must pay the fee only once (when you enter the system) and you can ride as much as you want. There are now more stations in Santiago because of the recent construction of two new lines. Visit the website for more information: http://www.metrosantiago.cl/.cl/. A: Nearest to Hotel Ebro. B: Nearest to UDP. 15
By car. All traffic signs are in Spanish only and their shapes and colors can be very different from the U.S. or European standards. Car Rentals are widely available throughout most major cities, but not in smaller towns. Usually a credit card, a valid driver's license and a passport, all three issued to the same person, are needed. Rental rates in Santiago are very similar to those in the U.S., but prices can be much higher in other cities. It's a good idea to avoid rush hours, between 7 and 9 AM and between 5 and 8 PM. There are several reversible lanes and streets in Santiago and other cities. Parking spaces and street lanes are narrower than in the U.S., so it's a good idea to get a small vehicle. Fuel prices are about 1.5 times higher than the average U.S. price, yet cheaper than in most Western Europe. Several inter-city roads are tolled and don't take credit cards, so keep some Chilean money with you. Most inter-city roads connecting major cities are rather well designed, almost totally sealed, and well kept. Several urban roads in Santiago have electronic free-flow tolls, so make sure that your car is equipped with an electronic radio-transponder, commonly called tag, since there are no toll booths at all on those roads. Many urban streets are not in good shape, so you must drive very carefully. All corners are supposed to have traffic signs, and in Santiago and most major cities, actually all corners are regulated by traffic signs. If there aren't any visible traffic signs, the preference belongs to the vehicle approaching from your right hand. All traffic signals and traffic lights are mandatory all of the time, there are no after-midnight concessions, such as yielding at stop signs or red lights. If you have one problem with the police (i.e.: misunderstanding of some traffic sign) just be humble and explain the situation, many times an "I will be more careful" might be enough. 16
Shopping Supermarkets. Open late at night (until 10 or 11 pm), they are also open all day on weekends, when Chilean families do their weekly shopping. The chains Lider and Jumbo are dominant on the market. Shopping Malls. Instead of spending the time outdoors on Sundays, many Santiaguinos stay in the air-conditioned shopping malls, where they shop at designer stores, eat at the Food Garden or go to the movies: Alto Las Condes, Av. Kennedy 9001, daily 10-22 h http://www.altolascondes.cl/ Parque Arauco, Av. Kennedy 5413, daily 10-21 h http://www.parquearauco.cl/ Apumanque, Av. Apoquindo, corner Manquehue, Mon-Sat 10-21, Sun 11-21 h http://www.apumanque.cl/ Costanera Center, Av. Andrés Bello, corner Tajamar, daily Mon-Sun 10-22 h http://www.costaneracenter.cl/mall Culinary Souvenirs. Typical gifts, apart from the Chilean national alcoholic drink Pisco and the world-wide famous wine, would be papayas from La Serena, chestnut mush and "manjar" (thickened concentrated milk). They can be purchased in the Central Market and in all supermarkets. Book Shops. You can find an excellent selection of Chilean literature at the Feria del Libro (several branches), e. g. in the Galería Drugstore, in Providencia, corner of Andrés de Fuenzalida (Metro - Pedro de Valdivia, line 1) Look for antiquarian trophies in the street San Diego (Metro - Universidad de Chile, line 1). Handicrafts and Antiques: Traditional Chilean handicrafts made with precious stones, leather, wool, wood or ceramics can be found at stores as: Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda, Plaza de la Ciudadanía 26 Galería del Mundo Andino, Villavicencio 395, barrio Lastarria Constitución 8, 8 artisans' house, barrio Bellavista The following ferias de artesanía (artisan s fairs) that open almost every day: Santa Lucía, Alameda / Carmen, Downtown. Good and inexpensive. Feria de Arte Indígena, Cerro Santa Lucía, Downtown. Authentic mapuche, rapa nui and aymara works. Patio Bellavista, Pío Nono 55, Barrio Bellavista. Large assortment of products, good quality, medium prices. Los Dominicos, Nueva Apoquindo 9085, Las Condes. High quality handicraft in little stores located inside an old convent. Closed on Mondays. Flea Markets. The largest flea market in Chile is the Persa Bio-Bio, set up all around the street Bio-Bio (Metro station Franklin, line 2), partly roofed, partly on the street (open only Sat/Sun). You have everything here: precious antiques, furniture, private copies of music and software, etc. 17
Chilean Etiquette Chileans are friendly and hospitable, and they tend to be forgiving of mistakes made by foreigners. Even so, if you are familiar with the basics of Chilean etiquette, you can avoid many embarrassing and awkward situations. Chilean culture tends to be more openly affectionate than what you might be used to. During conversations and when greeting one another, a hug, a kiss on the cheek, or an enthusiastic pat on the back are all commonplace. This is especially true among close friends and relatives. People also tend to stand closer than you might be used to, and to have more direct eye contact. You might feel that your personal space is being invaded a little bit, but for people in Chile, this is just a sign of friendliness, closeness, and interest in what the other person is saying. Schedules tend to be laid-back, and in most informal situations, it is not considered rude to be late. In fact, for informal gatherings such as a dinner or a party, the host will likely expect guests to arrive late. Do: Make direct eye contact with people when you meet them, or when you are having a conversation. Address people using their titles. If you aren t sure what title to use, address men as Señor, and women as Señora. Tip approximately 10 to 15% in restaurants. Often a 10% service charge will automatically be added. Even so, it is customary to tip 5 to 10% or so on top of that. Bring some type of small gift, such as flowers, a dessert, or a wine, if you are invited to someone s home. Ask for the bill after your meal at a restaurant. Your waiter or waitress will most likely not bring the bill until you ask for it. Wait for your host or hostess to show you to your seat before sitting down. This goes for whether you are visiting someone s home, or out at a restaurant or other social gathering. Greeting Etiquette. During your time in Chile, you will inevitably make many new friends. Knowing the proper way to greet someone, and the important things to avoid doing, can help you make a good first impression, and can pave the way for many a close friendship. A firm handshake and direct eye contact is the norm for greetings. It is common for close friends to hug and pat each other on the back. For women, a kiss on the right cheek is a common greeting. Greet everyone in a group individually. Use a person s title plus their last name. If you don t know their title, you can use Señor for men and Señora for women. 18
Exploring Santiago Some of the main attractions and places to visit in Santiago are: Cerro Santa Lucia. The hill that was the original founding place of Santiago, which is now adorned with wonderful facades, fountains and stairways including Terraza Neptuno. (Metro - Santa Lucia, line 1) Santa Lucia Craft Market. The most traditional place to buy handicraft and souvenirs in Santiago. It's just across from the hill that has the same name. (Metro - Santa Lucia, line 1) Paris Londres Neighborhood. One of the oldest streets in Santiago that has still maintained its old architecture (Metro - Universidad de Chile, line 1) Patio Bellavista. In the heart of the Bohemian Bellavista district, this beautiful plaza has become a meeting place for tourists and locals alike. Here you will find around 50 shops and restaurants to enjoy as well as frequently cultural events from music to art. It's a great place to spend an evening. (Metro Baquedano, line 1) Parque Araucano. The large park in Las Condes that has beautiful rose gardens with fountains, an aviary, basketball and tennis courts, a bike park, many playgrounds from children and lots of grass areas to relax on. It is across from the Parque Arauco shopping mall. Plaza de Armas. The main square of Santiago was cleared and leveled when Pedro de Valdivia founded the city in 1541. The West flank was reserved for the church, where the Cathedral now stands. The present building, built since 1748-1775, is the fifth to be constructed on the site due to earthquakes. The North side of the Square he appointed for himself and eventually the governors of Chile and later the presidents lived there until 1846 when La Moneda Palace was eventually constructed for them. Today the northern side contains the Central Post Office, a museum and the Santiago city council office. Between 1998 and 2000, a controversial renovation of the zone gave origin to the present layout, which mixes sectors for cultural activities, especially for classic painters and humorists, gardens and a central pergola for the municipal band. There are a few cafés around the plaza if you don't mind sipping your coffee surrounded by swarms of pigeons. Also, if you think you game is up to it, you can challenge one of the locals to a game of chess. Be warned, they're really good. One of the most interesting statues depicting the Mapuche heritage is also located here in the South-East corner of the square. At the North-West corner you will find another statue of Pedro de Valdivia riding a horse. 19
La Moneda. The Presidential Palace is a beautiful building and there is a formal tour. We recommend that you get your picture taken with the Carabineros who guard the palace in there impressively imposing uniforms. While some are unable to speak to tourists you will find that others are there purely to help lost tourists locate the museum below ground or other nearby attractions. The museum hosts several different exhibitions throughout the year, mainly by Chilean artists. If you go at 10 in the morning every second, day you will be able to see the changing of the guard in all its glory. (Metro Moneda, line 1) Cerro San Cristóbal bal. The highest point of Santiago at 880m above sea level (323m higher than Plaza de Armas). At its peak is the statue of the Virgin Mary which is illuminated at night as a beacon for the city. The Sanctuary of the Immaculate Conception, with its great statue at the summit of the hill, was inaugurated in 1908, by initiative of the archbishop of Santiago, Mariano Casanova, thanks to several private donations. The statue, visible from a large part of the city, is considered as a symbol of Santiago. There is an open air sanctuary at the foot of the statue where mass is offered. Pope John Paul II visited the sanctuary in 1987. The walk up is rather long and most travellers choose to arrive at the summit by taxi or tour bus. If you do choose to hike with the pilgrims making their trek to the virgin on their knees it will take you approximately an hour. There is also a small zoo, which is more appreciated for its beautiful gardens than the small variety of animals within it. La Chascona. One of Pablo Neruda's three houses in Chile, it is located in the bohemian arts district of Santiago called Barrio Bellavista. The home is open to guided tours every day of the week, except Mondays (10am - 6pm). The home contains many of his collections, books, and artwork by his third wife and his friends. There are over 9,000 books in the library and here you can see the diploma he was awarded along with the Noble Prize. From Metro Baquedano, line 1, cross the river and continue north along Pio Nono. His house is located at Márquez de la Plata 0192, near the end of Pio Nono and built on Cerro San Cristóbal itself. His other two houses are in Isla Negra and Valparaíso. 20
Parque Forestal. While normally this park is quiet with more dogs than people, on Sunday the park and neighbouring streets come alive as they are filled with street performers such as jugglers and actors, making it a fun environment for families as well. You will also come across a lot of second hand stuff such as books, clothes or handmade jewellery. The main focal point of people is around the Museo Bellas Artes, especially behind it. Another reason to visit on Sunday is that entrance to the museum is free that day. Museo Bellas Artes / Museo de Arte Contemporáneo. This palace holds two museums in one. While the museum features different exhibitions downstairs, upstairs there is also a permanent display of colonial art. The most stunning aspect of the museum however is not the art, but rather the building itself, especially the front foyer which filters in light over the marble walls and floors as well as all of the statues throughout the room. You can take the Metro Bellas Artes, line 5, or you can hop off at Metro Baquedano, line 1 and walk along Parque Forestal. Mercado Central. The building is constructed of steel that was made in England in 1868 and brought to Santiago. The building was completed in 1872. Nowadays it is a favorite tourist spot for the colorful restaurants that are located in and around the seafood market stands. We recommend that you have lunch at one of the small bistros. However, if you are looking to buy your groceries, cross the river to La Vega for cheaper prices at the same quality. La Vega also has its own form of restaurants with two or three stools where you can have freshly prepared ceviche for a fraction of the price, but with a rather different ambiance. (Metro - Cal y Canto, line 2). Also while you are there, try checking out the Mercado de Flores (Flower Market) across the river where there are dozens of shops making flower arrangements (mostly wreaths). The bright colors found here is a nice change from the brown river Mapocho flowing nearby. 21
Los Dominicos. While not the cheapest of outdoor markets, this surely one of the most orderly and high class ones in all of South America. You will surely be impressed by all that it has to offer and can pick up a few gifts for friends back home. Most of the products are made on site and sold in this make believe small town. It is a little out of the way from most of the other tourist sites, but a trip there is well worth the bus ride as you can go from the Center of town to upscale Las Condes. You can also take subway to the last station (Metro - Los Dominicos, line 1). When you come out you will see a beautiful colonial style church called Iglesia Los Dominicos, but it is usually closed. Los Dominicos to the right of this church. Museo de Ciencia y Tecnología. This interactive Science and Technology museum is a great place for kids (young and old) interested in learning a little bit about science, namely physics, while on vacation. There a lots of hands-on games and different gizmos that you might just find yourself getting into the spirit and learning a thing or two. Open Tuesday to Sunday (Metro Quinta Normal, line 5). http://www.corpdicyt.cl/ Parque O'Higgins. If you want to mingle with working class Chilean families then try coming here on a weekend anytime from Spring to Autumn and have a picnic, take a visit to Fantasilandia or tour one of the small museums on location. Fantasilandia is Chile's version of a roller coaster theme park. The museums are generally lacking, although the Museo del Huaso does stand out with the traditional Chilean cowboy's gear on display. (Metro Parque O Higgins, line 2) Barrio Bellavista. This is currently one of the hot spots for Chileans to hang out in. It is full of different pubs, restaurants and dance clubs at night and different artesian shops during the day. Cross the river from Metro Baquedano and walk along Pío Nono to the outdoor market. This is probably one of the cheaper places to buy 22
"authentic" Chilean knick knacks, and if you go early when few people are there you can sometimes get good deals from the vendors. There are also a lot of stores here overflowing with different lapislazuli carvings. At night we recommend staying away from Pio Nono, as the sidewalks are just chalked full of tables and plastic chairs with bars offering two different selections of cheap beer. Off this street you can find Plaza Bellavista. Both the restaurants and the shops in the plaza are a bit overpriced, but it is worth at least a walk through if you are in the neighborhood. The district is well known for its bohemian roots; who knows which local artist you might bump into while there. Be careful late at night, while it is becoming less dangerous you should still keep your eyes open and your hand on your purse at all times while out at night. Great places to check out in Barrio Bellavista are: Patio Bellavista. In the heart of the Bohemian Bellavista district, this beautiful plaza has become a meeting place for tourists and locals alike. Here you will find around 50 shops and restaurants to enjoy as well as frequently cultural events from music to art. It's a great place to spend an evening. Etnico tnico. This trendy spot serves up great sushi platters for sharing with the whole group. The décor is done in beautiful wood panels you'll have fun watching people try to figure out how to enter the bathroom door. La Maestra Vida. Although Chileans aren't renowned for their dancing, this is one place where you can actually learn how to salsa with the best of them. There tend to be a lot of regulars that come every weekend and don't mind helping a gringo learn to shake it. There are also classes earlier in the night. It is worth it to come early, especially if you are shy about dancing and just want to get a good table to watch all the action. Located near the end of Pío Nono, you'll recognize the red building on the corner before the entrance to Cerro San Cristobal where seedy looking guys normally pass out propaganda for other bars. http://www.maestravida.cl/. 23
Plaza Nuñoa. Nuñoa. The barrio itself is more of a sleepy residential area, with a generally older population, but the plaza just off of Calle Irrarrazaval comes alive at night. This is the perfect place to have a beer and chill out with friends at one of the outdoor tables all along the plaza. It generally attracts young college students looking for cheap beer and French fries covered in onions, fried eggs and sausage. yum! A lot of times you will find young kids hanging out in the middle of the plaza, no matter how cold it might be, practicing their free style rapping, or sometimes there are even gypsy bands and other street performers. At night try stopping in at one of the places with Kuntsman beer on tap, or during the day be sure to visit the artesian ice cream parlor. The metro doesn't come close to here, so you'll need to take a micro or cab. Check out La Batuta http://www.batuta.cl/, http://www.batuta.cl/ one of the only clubs in the area with regular live music, it is a little on the small side and filled with an eclectic group of people depending on the night. Sanhattan. Sanhattan. Barrio El Golf is the financial heart of the city where most of the top businesses and embassies are. Walking around El Golf and Apoquindo Street you will being amazed by the modern architecture of the buildings that makes this part of town on a par with any city on the world. If you are dying for the food back home and you just can't get into the local Chilean cuisine you can always trod on over to this plaza where elegant Chileans somehow convert themselves into Americans. The whole street of Isidora Goyenechea is lined with American-based restaurants whose menus are normally written in English too. In fact the only real difference between these chain restaurants and the ones back home are the lack of free refills. You can easily walk there from Metro - El Golf, line 1. If you are walking down Avenida Bosque Norte to Plaza Peru you just might not make it. Instead you might feel the draw to have a beer in Flannery's, the local Irish bar. It is a favorite with ex-pats and is filled every night of the week. Sometimes there are karaoke contests upstairs and large red headed Irish men belting their hearts out. They have a variety of beers, including some they brew themselves, although unfortunately there is not Guinness. 24
Exploring Chile You can find a great combination of history, natural splendors, and even something for the artsy crowd. The Atacama Desert is one of the most unique places in the world and the Chilean Patagonia is something not to miss. Atacama Desert. The most popular tourist attraction in Chile second to only Eastern Island. The Atacama Desert is the highest and driest desert in the world. Unique rock formations will leave you speechless the entire time you are there; Valle de la Luna (moon valley) death valley, and dinosaur valley, to name a few. You could literally spend an entire week exploring the area (it would be time well spent), look for accommodation in San Pedro de Atacama. Easter Island. One of the most isolated places on Earth, it s still an enigma to most people. The lineage of the people in Easter Island is actually traced back to Polynesia and Micronesia, not the migration originally thought. It is very easy to get around on the island and some tourists like to bike around the island. Only LAN Airlines flies to Easter Island from Peru or Santiago. Patagonia (Torres del Paine). Patagonia in Chile is one of the reasons why they call Chile the Switzerland of the South. There are gorgeous snowcapped mountains where the Andes tower over the border of Chile and Argentina. The lake country in Chile is also very impressive, make sure to check cities off the beaten path like Chiloe. The Torres del Paine National park is the most popular attraction in this region. You can access the park via Calafate, Argentina, or Puerto Natales in Chile. Valparaiso and Viña del Mar. These two cities sit 1 hour from each other on the coast of Chile, roughly 2 hours from Santiago. Valparaiso can be described as an artsy town and one of the great things to see is the graffiti that defines the city. Make sure to explore the Pablo Neruda museum in the city. 25
Just a short bus or taxi ride away is Viña Del Mar where you can find the famous flower clock. The city doesn t have that many attractions but you can find the beach if you are in the mood for some sun. Humberstone. (www.albumdesierto.cl www.albumdesierto.cl), is a deserted former nitrate mining town in the far north of Chile containing rusting industrial equipment and abandoned homes, visitors will feel the haunting sense of emptiness and eeriness of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Juan Fernández Islands. Re-trace the footsteps of the real-life Robinson Crusoe in the little known Juan Fernández Islands (650km/ 403 miles) west of Valparaíso. Scotsman Alexander Selkirk was marooned here in the early 18th century, forming the inspiration for Daniel Defoe's novel Robinson Crusoe. 26
Local Food Here is a list of typical Chilean food and what their equivalent is in English: Bistec a lo pobre. Beefsteak, French fries, fried onions, topped with a couple of fried eggs. Carbonada. Meat soup with finely diced beef and all kinds of vegetables such as potatoes, onions, carrots, broccoli, green pepper and parsley. Chancho en Piedra. A typical Chilean seasoning with tomatoes, garlic, and onions grounded together in a stone. Charquican. Ground or diced meat cooked with garlic, onions, potatoes and pumpkin all mashed. It is a mushy dish but great. Cazuela de Ave. Chicken soup with pieces of meat, potatoes, green beans or peas, rice or noodles. Cazuela de Vacuno. Beef soup with pieces of meat, potatoes, corn on the cob, carrots, onions, green beans, garlic, chunks of pumpkin, rice or noodles. Costillar de Chancho. Baked spare (pork) ribs. Empanada de Pino. Typical turnover (pastry) filled with diced meat, onions, olive, raisins and a piece of hard-boiled egg, baked in earthen or plain oven. Empanada de Queso. Typical turnover filled with cheese until dry then added to minced cooked potatoes and flattened to a bread-like form then baked or fried. This is one of the ingredients that can be found in a typical curanto. Parrillada. Different kinds of meat, sausages and sometimes entrails grilled over charcoal and served with potato salad or rice. Pastel de Choclo. A typical Chilean summer dish. Ground corn and meat, chopped onions small pieces of chicken, pieces of hardboiled egg, olive raisins - baked in clay or regular oven. Similar to a shepherd pie. Pebre. Seasoning of tomatoes with chopped onion, chilicoriander, and chives. Usually served in a little clayion and sliced carrots. Porotos Granados. Fresh bean dish with ground corn and pieces of pumpkin served hot. 27
Chilean sandwiches: Somewhere along the way, in adopting the idea of "sandwiches", Chileans missed the part about "pick it up and eat it". Most Chilean hamburgers and other sandwiches, though served between pieces of bread, are architecturally not suited to being picked up. Therefore you have to eat most Chilean sandwiches with knife and fork. Barros Jarpa. A political-namesake sandwich named after an obscure attorney, traditionally made with nearly tasteless hand-kneaded bread called "pan amasado". If no pan amasado is available, any old bread will do, and often does. It is a hot ham and cheese sandwich, with the cheese often served hot enough to burn your lips and tongue. It usually takes a lot of salsa de ají to make this sandwich interesting. Barros Luco. Hot meat sandwich, usually beef, with melted cheese. It got its name from a former Chilean President Ramón Barros Luco, in office 1910 to 1915, who reportedly ate a lot of them. Chacarero. Another "sandwich" you have to eat with knife and fork. Beef slices, green string beans, tomato pieces, and usually the chili sauce called "ají". Chileans, often delusional when it comes to food, like to think of it as their greatest contribution to international sandwich cuisine. Completo. The main Chilean fast-food staple. It is basically an American hot-dog (wiener) and bun, with several toppings. Common toppings include sauerkraut, chopped tomato, ketchup and lots of mayonnaise. There are variants such as the "Italiana", which have avocado paste. Just as there are hot-dog eating contests in the U.S., there are completo-eating contests in Chile. Lomito. A large hot pork sandwich. The pork usually is in strips on a large hamburger-type bun. The usual additions are mashed (or pieces of) avocado, slices of tomato, and mayonnaise. Eat it with knife and fork. 28