Bedding down in bangk k Mandarin Oriental words by paul myers From boutique to big-gun, riverside to regal, Thailand s capital has hot hotels to suit every whim and wallet. july 2012 QANTAS 69
s one of the world s 10 most-visited cities, with more than 10 million international arrivals likely this year, you would expect Bangkok to have its fair share of hotels. And it does more than 900 at last count, Aa figure that increases every week. But it s not just the choice of accommodation that makes Bangkok such a dream city for travellers. Prices in the capital of the Land of Smiles are more competitive than those of many other metropolises. So much so, that the mantra of almost every hotelier in town is: If only we could charge more. Indeed. Bangkok may be the only major international city where it s possible to find a five-star hotel room for $100 a night or, in low season (June-September), even less. The city s elite hotels are perfect examples of Bangkok s unrivalled value for money. At around $344 a night, the Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok s oldest, most famous and to many its best hotel, costs $150 less than its sister property in Hong Kong and half the price of a room at the same brand in New York. It s a similar story at Bangkok s other big brands Shangri-La, Hyatt, Sheraton, Westin and Sofitel all of which are considerably lower in price than their sister properties in comparable cities. As in many Asian cities, Bangkok s early hotel developments were beside its waterway the Chao Phraya River. Here, the grand hotels emerged to cater for seafarers and traders, and, despite the hub of city life moving away from the river, a few still survive, with some later additions. As virtual city resorts, a feature of all the best riverfront hotels is the ferry service operated by each property connecting them to the Silom line Skytrain network. What better way to leave for or return from a day s shopping, business or entertainment than by a traditional, open-sided, wooden ferry, especially in a bustling city such as Bangkok? Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa 70 QANTAS july 2012
Mandarin Oriental (left); The Peninsula (below) Near many of the riverfront hotels, on the city side, is one of Bangkok s main attractions, the Grand Palace, home to the Thai royal family since 1782. Not far away are some of the many canals linked to the river, which provide a fascinating insight into traditional Thai life. Floating markets and canal-side living are still part of the city s day-to-day business, which makes staying in a riverfront hotel that much more interesting. When the Thai capital emerged as an important Asian business hub in the 1980s, high-rise offices sprang up along the Sathon-Silom corridor, a few kilometres north of the river. Five-star businessoriented hotels followed, of which there is still a good representation of high-end local and international brands. Now, with shopping and entertainment among the main reasons so many visitors come to Bangkok, a swag of hotels can be found along the city s main thoroughfare, Sukhumvit Road. This is also the preferred location for hip new hotels in the style of New York and London. ON THE RIVERFRONT Shangri-La 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu New Road, Bangrak. www.shangri-la.com A private balcony overlooking the Chao Phraya River in the Krungthep wing is just one of many reasons to choose the Shangri-La. Another, of course, is the aura of the brand itself, the Bangkok incarnation being no exception. A sumptuous lobby, butler service, more than 800 rooms, serviced long-stay apartments and easy access to Saphan Taksin Skytrain station are among others. From $178. The Peninsula 333 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan. www.peninsula.com If the Rolls-Royce limousines The Peninsula operates for its guests don t tell you something about this famous hotel, its location by the river and numerous awards including South-East Asia s top city hotel (The Gallivanter s Guide) should suffice. Few hotel brands have The Peninsula s cachet. Its restaurants range from traditional Thai to Western and Cantonese. From $178. Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road. www.bangkok-riverside. anantara.com Perhaps Bangkok s only true resort hotel, the Anantara Riverside is several kilometres from any real Bangkok action, an enclave in a frenetic city and, like other riverfront hotels, it operates regular ferry services to Saphan Taksin Skytrain station. A major renovation has given the hotel a fresh new appeal to those seeking an exotic escape within reach of the city. From $128. Mandarin Oriental 48 Oriental Avenue. www.mandarinoriental.com Its predecessor, The Oriental, dates back to 1865, but the Mandarin Oriental s official beginning was 1876. Among many regular guests were Joseph Conrad who arrived by boat as a Polish merchant naval officer in 1888 W Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward, John Le Carre and James Michener. Hence the hotel s inviting Authors Lounge, where traditional English high tea is served. The hotel lobby, featuring iconic temple bell chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows and royal elephant sculptures on either side of the lifts, is the most striking in Bangkok, while traditionally attired bellboys provide an insight into a bygone world when the hotel, as The Oriental, first made its mark in the city. From $344. BETTER BUSINESS Four Seasons 159 Rajadamri Road. fourseasons.com/bangkok Hand-painted silk ceilings, a grand lobby and a mix of traditional and contemporary decor make this one of Bangkok s favoured business hotels as well as its location opposite Royal Bangkok Sports Club. Sunday brunch, regarded by many locals and expats as the best in Bangkok, costs about $80 per person and features dishes from the hotel s four restaurants plus top international wines and Champagne. From $170. 72 QANTAS july 2012
Vertigo Bar at Banyan Tree; Sukhothai lobby (right); Banyan Tree spa (below right) Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Road. www.sukhothai.com Set well back from South Sathorn Road in expansive garden-like grounds, the Sukhothai markets itself as a place apart, apt for a hotel that is a Leading Hotels of the World member and is favoured by business executives seeking away-from-it-all solitude. Named after an ancient northern kingdom, its somewhat austere facade is considerably softened by ample Thai art, beautifully appointed rooms and three top-class restaurants, including La Scala, where Italy meets Thailand on a plate. The Hollywood-style pool is a glamorous socialising hub. From $192. St Regis 159 Rajadamri Road. More like a swish apartment building, the St Regis elegant touches make it one of Bangkok s most desirable five-star hotels. Within walking distance of major shopping, with views over the Bangkok Sports Club grounds, it offers the on-site Elemis Spa and direct air-bridge connection to the Silom BTS Skytrain line. St Regis also boasts one of the best hotel pools in Bangkok, a fabulous bar and several outstanding dining options, including JoJo Italian restaurant. From $177. Metropolitan 27 South Sathorn Road, Tungmahamek, Sathorn. metropolitan.bangkok.como.bz The Metropolitan has become an institution in Bangkok because of its relatively small size (171 guestrooms), contemporary interior design and Nahm its Thai restaurant run by Australian chef David Thompson. From $144. Banyan Tree 21/100 South Sathorn Road. www.banyantree.com Many visitors to Bangkok go to the Banyan Tree because of its famous rooftop Vertigo Bar, where if you don t mind the giddying height (61 floors) or sky-high (for Bangkok) prices you can eat and drink under the stars. The hotel is also ideally situated for business travellers and is close to the Australian Embassy on South Sathorn Road. The hotel is out of character in the portfolio of the Banyan Tree group, which specialises in pool villa properties in resort destinations such as Phuket. From $156. SHOPPING CENTRAL Baiyoke Sky Hotel 222 Ratchaprarop Road, Ratchathewi. baiyokehotel.com The Baiyoke is part of Bangkok s tallest building (88 storeys) and one of the best value. On the edge of the shopping and entertainment district, Baiyoke is only a short walk from Ratchaprarop airport railway station. Standard rooms start on the 22nd floor, after which is a Sky Zone ; then a Space Zone from the 64th to 74th floors. The 83rd-floor rooftop bar has spectacular views. From $87. InterContinental 973 Ploenchit Road. www.intercontinental.com Right in the thick of the shopping precinct on Sukhumvit Road, the InterContinental is as well positioned as any hotel in town. Within walking distance of all the major department stores in the Siam area, and adjacent to Chitlom Skytrain station, its other big attraction (for Australians, anyway) is the Grossi Trattoria & Wine Bar, with its own entrance at street level, the baby of Melbourne chef, Guy (Florentino) Grossi. From $177. Westin Grande Sukhumvit 259 Sukhumvit Road. A favourite of Bangkok regulars, the hotel is situated next to Asok Skytrain and Sukhumvit MRT stations, and the new Terminal 74 QANTAS july 2012
JoJo Italian restaurant, on the terrace at St Regis online time to get going... For more city accommodation guides: qantas.com/travelinsider Aloft 35 Sukhumvit Road, Soi 11, Klongtoey Nua Wattana. One of Bangkok s newer hotels, Aloft is on Soi 11, opposite the popular Bed Supperclub and around the corner from another nightlife institution, Q Bar. Local attractions aside, Aloft is the Starwood (Sheraton, Westin, St Regis, Le Meridien) entry into Bangkok s hip hotel category. The hotel is now attracting guests well outside its original target demographic as it registers on the radar of older but still price-aware travellers. From $65. bangkok s best... Value Sofitel Sukhumvit, Aloft Location InterContinental, Four Seasons Resortstyle Anantara Bangkok Riverside, Shangri-La Ambience Mandarin Oriental, The Peninsula Dining St Regis (JoJo Italian restaurant), Metropolitan (Nahm restaurant), Four Seasons (Sunday brunch), InterContinental (Grossi Trattoria) Drinks Banyan Tree (Vertigo Bar), Siam@Siam Pool St Regis, Sofitel Sukhumvit views Baiyoke, The Peninsula (the two tallest hotels in Bangkok) New Hotels Aloft, Sofitel Sukhumvit 21 shopping complex. It is also within walking distance of numerous bars and nightspots, while also passing the test as a legitimate high-end business hotel. From $132. Sofitel Sukhumvit 189 Sukhumvit Road, Soi 13-15, Klongtoey Nua Wattana. www.sofitel.com This new (opened in March) hotel is near the Westin Grande Sukhumvit and over the road from the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit. Perfectly positioned for nightlife, shopping and (within a few Skytrain stops) business, it, too, has an impressive pool, a wonderful lounge/bar and typical Sofitel quality. From $153. POSITIVELY HIP Siam@Siam 865 Rama 1 Road. www.siamatsiam.com The 203-room Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa is a boutique hotel with a difference. Art works, individually-styled rooms, the small but elegant Spa Ten and a hip buzz that attracts Bangkok s in crowd make this hotel a favourite of visitors seeking a break from the chainhotel formula. There is also a cigar and wine kiosk and The Roof Restaurant, ideal to enjoy the city skyline by night. From $87. Vie 117/39-40 Phaya Thai Road, Ratchathewi. accorhotels.com Near the shopping precinct, the Vie is part of Accor s M Gallery collection. Since opening two years ago, it has won widespread acclaim for its funky interior design and breakaway ambience. Winner of several awards, including best boutique hotel in Asia, the hotel combines traditional service and comfort with hip design. From $99. Lit Bangkok 36/1 Soi Kasemsan 1, Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan. www.litbangkok.com A new hotel in a backstreet near the MBK shopping complex and Siam BTS station. Its L-shaped curved steel exterior, ergonomic furniture and colorful arty interior design won t appeal to traditionalists, but the price and position attract central-city hotel seekers. From $135. c For airfares call Qantas on 13 13 13 or visit qantas. com. For holiday packages to Bangkok call Qantas Holidays on 13 14 15. 76 QANTAS july 2012