Elbrus Expedition North Side THE CAUCASUS MOUNTAINS rise between the great plains of Russia and the mountainous territories of Trans-Caucasian. They extend for 1200 km from East to West, between the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea. The mountain system includes dozens of peaks over 4000 meters high and about 2000 glaciers. THE CENTRAL CAUCASUS is the heart of the Caucasus, the highest and most fascinating part of the entire mountain system and the one with the most difficult access. Closed off to the west by Mt. Elbrus and to the east by Mt. Kazbek, the divide is quite articulate, complex and branches off to the north and south into a series of buttresses. Here lie the most famous rock faces in the Caucasus system scattered over the regions of Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Bezengi, Svanetia and, in the easternmost part of the central Caucasus, of Digoria, Karaugorn and Tsey. MOUNT ELBRUS dominates the countryside of the Central Caucasus like a two-headed icy giant. It has two peaks that correspond to two different volcano vents: the western peak (Zapadnaya) is the tallest one, while the eastern peak (Vostochnaya), at 5621 meters high, still has a gigantic crater 250 meters in diameter. The entire mountain is covered by an immense sheet of ice that occupies 145 square kms and in some zones is 400 meters thick. From the col that divides the two peaks the white slopes of the mountain descend gently, splitting Page 1
up into tongues of ice and crevasses lying in the many striking valleys that radiate from the mountain. A circular lava massif, it has a diameter of 18 kilometres and more than 70 large and small glaciers flow from its slopes. THE FIRST person to climb the mountain was Russian Killar Khashirov in 1829, as part of a military scientific expedition. 39 years later British climber Douglas Freshfield climbed the East Peak and in 1874 the higher summit was reached by F Crawford Grove. THE APPROACH FOR THE NORTHERN ROUTE to Mount Elbrus starts with your arrival into Mineralyne Vody where you will meet with our head guide Sasha Lebedev who has worked for us for over a decade and has led every Adventure Alternative climb on the mountain. The Northern route is a lot more adventurous than the normal southern route. It is more remote and does not have the tourist infrastructure found on the southern side. Due to this it offers a purer mountaineering experience with most accommodation on the mountain being in tents. Food is still cooked by our team and kitchen and dining tents are carried in. Showers are not available on this route but hot water is provided for washing. The southern side has cable cars and snow machines for carrying personal equipment up the mountain, but on the North side we use porters only for the main expedition equipment and you will be expected to carry your own personal gear to the top hut and the final camp as you acclimatise. You won t be carrying heavy loads and this is a perfect way to experience the methods and principles used to climb higher mountains in the Greater Rangers. We have an excellent team on the ground in Russia who will not only look after you very well but also be good company whilst you attempt to climb Europe s highest peak. It is a remote area and there is more self-preservation on the north side, but beautiful panoramas, wildlife and mountain scenery. Summit slopes on the north side View from the top hut Mt Elbrus is not technically difficult however it is in a region which attracts very temperamental weather. For this reason you should ensure that you have good clothing and equipment with you. The weather and lack of fitness are the main reasons for unsuccessful summits. Many people assume that since Mt Elbrus is lower than Kilimanjaro that they will summit successfully but there is no doubt that it is much harder. The climb tends to attract a wide variety of abilities, so a degree of tolerance is vital for good team dynamics and enjoyment. Page 2
ITINERARY: Please note that due to the nature of the climb and weather on Elbrus we cannot guarantee a fixed itinerary during the final climbing period. The itinerary below is an ideal scenario however the situation on the ground at the time (group ability, acclimatisation, weather and terrain) will allow your guide to adapt the itinerary to the safest option during your climbing period which will allow a summit. Day minus 1. Depart home, fly overnight to reach Moscow the following morning (See our flight info sheet). Day 1. (this is the advertised trip date on our website and the arrival date into Mineralyne Vody) Fly in the morning from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody, meet the Adventure Alternative team and then a transfer to the base camp of the mountain, a journey of 5/6hrs to reach Mt Elbrus. The 1 st section of the journey is on asphalt roads which then changes to earth/dirt track roads. We then have our first night under canvas at base camp which is at Emanuil's glade at the foot of Elbrus at 2250 m. Day 3, 4, 5. We will enjoy acclimatisation walks along the hardened lava and enjoy the exotic surrounding landscapes of stone mushrooms, volcanic bombs and lava sculptures. Acclimatisation ascent to high camp, which is at 3800 m (4-5 hours) to drop off some gear. Day 6, 7, 8. Ascend to the high camp on moraine (Northern shelter, 3800 m, 4-5 hours). Overnight in the high camp (a hut) at 3800m. Practical training / tuition in safe travel techniques on snow. Acclimatisation ascent and training walk (5 hours) to Lenz's rocks (4600m). Day 9, 10, 11. Summit attempts to the West Peak. Depending on weather we may camp at Lenz s Rocks. Day 12. Breakfast, transfer to the Mineralyne Vody airport and fly to Moscow. Page 3
Climbing Mt Elbrus If you have climbed the likes of Kilimanjaro before then you will be used to quite a structured itinerary involving gradually climbing up the mountain each day to the summit. The style in which Mt Elbrus is climbed is different; we do carries of equipment and adopt a climb high sleep low principle. This acclimatisation is important and allows everybody to prepare for the summit day. Due to acclimatisation, weather and objective dangers on the mountain, there has to be an element of fluidity in the programme that allows for the unforeseen! The guides will brief you regarding the itinerary and make decisions to ensure group safety based on the many factors which must come together to allow a successful summit of this beautiful peak. The drive to Base Camp Initially you will take a minibus from the city for about two hours before transferring to jeeps or a truck and going off-road. These jeeps are Russian made, the only vehicles available, and are not brand new but the drivers are well used to the conditions. There is a river crossing just before base camp, and sometimes it is necessary to use a footbridge to carry equipment across. Base Camp, 2570m We have a number of comfortable mountain tents which can accommodate up to three people easily, although you may wish to keep it to two. There is a kitchen tent for cooking and eating and a small sauna nearby. There is also a toilet but washing is done in the river about 120 metres away. Our team will provide hot washing water for hands and face etc, but there are no showers. Bring a towel and wash kit, and a swimming costume if you intend to go for a dip! The biggest problem is drying clothes if it is not sunny. High Camp, 3750m this is situated on the edge of moraine and there are several huts and good places for tents. It takes about 4 hours to walk here, which will need to be done at least twice to move the gear and food into place and assist with your acclimatisation. Page 4
Top hut with Elbrus peak in the background Lenz Rocks the rocks start at 4570 metres and extend up to 5250 metres. If possible we can try to camp in the rocks to shorten the summit day. This is the section where you will see crevasses so the decision will be made by guides about the use of man ropes to keep everybody safely secured together. You will need plastic boots, crampons and trekking or ski poles for this section, plus your mountain clothing and shell. There is a clear route that has been previously marked along rocky ridges where possible. Some sections are straight up and therefore steeper, but no more than about 35 degrees. The route from Summit Camp to Summit it takes about 2 hours to ascend the length of the Lenz Rocks and then a further 5 hours to reach the Saddle at 5600 metres. From here to the summit is a further 4 hours. It must be stressed that a successful summit of the peak requires ideal weather conditions, excellent snow conditions and a strong team. It is a long summit day and involves a long ascent. It is not very steep or technical, but it is an expedition peak with some objective danger in crevasses and potential avalanche (if there has been snowfall). Objective dangers on summit day - The weather will determine whether or not you get out of bed to go for the summit, and you should expect temperamental conditions with cold and wind and snowfall and lack of visibility. Down or heavy fleece layers and good shells (wind / waterproof trouser and jacket) are important. Try to keep dry at all times, as well as warm, and make sure you have a dry set of base layers to change into when you get back from the summit. Snowfall will inevitably create the potential for avalanche, and this is a serious consideration on any mountain. Avalanche conditions remain long after the snowfall has stopped so do not expect to have a second attempt at the summit if the first attempt was prevented by heavy snow; the objective dangers still remain. If the weather prior to your summit day has been clear and generally good, and you have clear skies during the night when you get up, then you will probably have a chance to go to the summit. If all is favourable during your climbing period then a decision will be made on which day to summit Mt Elbrus, but it the reality is that trying a second time simply involves too much energy and is very difficult. It all depends on the situation. It is not possible to ask Sasha to re-adjust the programme beyond the dates of your visa, to change flights or split into two groups. The Russian visa you have cannot be extended, you can t change a flight in Russia at all easily, and Sasha has a responsibility to look after everyone. On the summit day itself there will be several guides however, and it may be possible for some people to continue if others need to turn back. Again, there can be no generalisation, it entirely depends on the group itself and the conditions on the day. Page 5
Elevation of main huts and points Base Camp 2250m High Camp 3800m Lenz Rocks 4600m Saddle 5300m West Summit 5642m Communication There is no mobile phone coverage on the north side of Elbrus so we are out of contact for the duration of the trip. Some people may want to bring their Spot which will show where you are to friends and family. We also have handheld radio sets for use on the mountain between the guides. In the event of someone coming down, a guide will always accompany that person and keep in Page 6
touch with the others. Staff Sasha is the trip organiser and he works directly for Adventure Alternative, running our Russian expeditions for the past 12 years. He is extremely good at handling Russian logistics. Clearly things do change during an expedition and this particular trip does require a higher level of acceptance for the unexpected and unforeseen, however Sasha is highly respected in the region and will ensure that you are well looked after. We also employ other local guides on a need-for-trip basis, in order to ensure the correct ratio of guides in the group. These people do change seasonally, as there is a pool to choose from. We also will have an additional cook to help the guides prepare the meals. Andrey Panin runs our office in Moscow and he can organise airport transfers (airport taxis will take advantage of you) into the City, tours, guiding, show tickets, hotel bookings etc. Moscow can be very expensive so it is best to seek his advice about where to stay, eat and any other questions you may have. If you need Andrey or his services you should email him on panchich@mail.ru or his mobile is +7 9857645645 or office +7 495 670 7111. Kit List Large rucksack Day pack for walks and summit day (around 40 litres) Sleeping bag, 3 season Sleeping mat Hiking clothes and travel clothes Thermal base layer Midlayer - can be fleece or warm shirts, jumper etc. Top and bottom. Fleece jacket (heavyweight eg Polartec 300, full zip jacket better) or thick jacket. Down jacket with hood (if you do not bring this you must be sure of extra warm fleece layers Shell trousers and jacket with hood Sunhat and wool or fleece hat (warm with ear flaps) Balaclava or neck warmer Trekking socks and thick socks for summit Fleecy gloves and waterproof warm mitts Headlamp (spare bulbs and batteries) Glacier or sunglasses (100% UV) Goggles (optional) Leather walking boots Plastic climbing boots (avoid tight fit with heavy socks) for use on snow Gaiters Climbing harness, medium sling and 2 locking karabiners Crampons (step-ins or strap-ons, 10 point) Trekking poles Water bottles - 2 x 1 litres capacity (don t use water bladders for summit day) and thermos Page 7
Personal first aid kit, sunscreen and lipscreen (SPF 30 at least) Dry bags Cost 1,390 per person. This is an all-inclusive cost with no kitties The price includes - visa support papers, accommodation and food throughout the trip, all permits and district registration papers, all local transport in the Elbrus region, full guide services, mountain food and camping/ hut fees, cooking facilities and a cook on the mountain, saunas, porters for carrying equipment to the mountain hut. The price excludes - international flight to Moscow and Mineralnye Vody, travel insurance (estimated 70), cost of visa to buy at Embassy ( 35 if bought well in advance), drinks and personal expenses, kit hire. For rent from Adventure Alternative: Crampons - 15.00, walking axe - 15.00 For rent locally (paid in rubles, advance noticed and sizes required): Plastic boots: 5-8 per day. Visa we provide you with a visa invitation letter which you then use to apply for your visa from your local Consulate. Booking all bookings are done online through the AA website and we require you to put all information on the site, including flights, next of kin, passport information and medical information. Page 8