ALBANY 4WD CLUB TRIP CONNIE SUE, OLD GUNBARREL AND GUNBARREL HIGHWAY JULY AUGUST 2015 Introduction The participants on this Club trip were led by Geoff and Anthea (Nissan Patrol) and accompanied by Robyn and Alan (Isuzu Dmax) and Dave in a Toyota Troopy. The planned route was: Esperance Mt Ragged Cocklebiddy Rawlinna Connie Sue Highway to Warburton Old Gunbarrel to Warakuna Great Central Road back to Warburton Gunbarrel Highway to Wiluna then on the bitumen to Leonora. Leonora was the end of the Club trip. The Route.!
Day 1 20th July 2015 430 Km We gathered at Brooks Gardens car pack for a 9.00 am departure. After a quick photo opportunity we were on the road towards Esperance. Morning tea was taken at the Pallinup River and a cool windy lunch at Ravensthorpe. Our aim was to overnight at Quagi Beach campground. We arrive there about 4.00 and set up camp. A short exploratory stroll along a very soft beach with lots of birdlife. Awnings were extended before having nibblies under a threatening sky which was just as well as the heavens opened up just as we were gathering around the campfire after cleaning up after dinner. The rain sent us into our tents by 8.30. More rain and wind overnight! Day 2 314Km Despite a wet pack in the morning, we were on the road to Esperance by 9.15 with lots a dark cloud moving in from the South. Refueled in Esperance in the rain and continued on Fisheries Road to Condinup for a leg stretch, a pie and to check the road conditions to Mt Ragged. The advice was to take the Parmango Road as some folks had come through Mt Ragged with difficulty. We accepted the advice. The further north we went the drier the road became but the potholes still contained water. The road showed evidence of heavy use in the wet with quite deep ruts in places. Saw an Historic marker sign and decided to investigate. It was the abandoned Deralinda Homestead. The main building was partially restored with an iron roof and stone walls. There were two dams and some stone outbuildings. It was well worth the stop. Dave spotted an Australian Bustard on the road. Continued until about 3.30 when we
spotted a good campsite with plenty of handy firewood about 30 Km south of Balladonia. Day 3 307 Km A very chilly night and frosty morning resulted in moving on about 9.15. We stopped at the Telegraph track intersection for a photo before continuing on to Balladonia. Here we pumped up our tyres, had a coffee and a look around the museum. Then onto Highway1 towards Cocklebiddy first time for Geoff, Anthea and Dave, umpteenth for Al and Rob. We noticed a new mobile phone tower about halfway between Balladonia and Cocklebiddy with 5 bars reception.! Pulled up at the Caiguna Blowhole for lunch then onto Cocklebiddy for fuel and showers. As there had been rain on the Nullarbor, we were advised to take the track to Haig rather than the Rawlinna road. We did, heading east from Cocklebiddy before turning north. Opened and shut quite a few gates to start with but not much else - a few kangaroos, low saltbush, no trees. Not good for camping! Crossed the Dingo proof fence with cloud cover increasing. Al managed to hit a decent sized rock and punched a hole in the sidewall. Bugger! And a long way to go with only one spare! After changing the tyre we were looking for a campsite, no good looking for cover here, and found a clearish area close to the track. Our leftover wood from the telegraph track fed the fire. Day 4 168 Km A much warmer night, better sleep and easier pack up. Tyres pumped up to reduce the threat of sidewall damage. Grey skies, grey scenery and grey kangaroos on a rough limestone track with water filled potholes. A decent size group of shrubs presented a morning tea stop. A slow careful day dodging road hazards, ridges, washouts potholes and mud.
About 4 km short of the railway line Anthea advised they may have a flat tyre. They did! Not quite as severe as yesterdays but it had to be changed. A short time later we made it to Haig (nothing to see) and proceeded a short way along the Trans Access Road toward Rawlinna before pulling up for lunch. Fairly well formed gravel road bliss! Good run to Rawlinna, arriving about 3.30. Saw two eagles, a feral cat and some cattle. A quick windscreen tour of the settlement, many buildings vacant, a mine nearby! probably shut, a couple of residents spotted. The derelict looking toilets near the station in good working order. Looked unsuccessfully for a protected campsite so we set up where others had. Fortuitously the wind dropped. The first train appeared from the west, two engines and double stacked containers. A nasty surprise right in the middle of tea preparation in the dark, a sudden gust of wind and a downpour! Major panic to keep everything dry and protected.
The clay pan was now very muddy and it stuck to everything. Another train at about 8.10 pm just after the rain had cleared. The rest of the night was dry. Day 5 97 Kms A muddy if sunny morning. It took a while to sort out the mess but we managed to hit the Connie Sue at 9.15. Very stony, muddy, slippery flat treeless scene. 24.5 Km in 1.5 hours. We stopped for morning tea and found the first of many benchmarks alongside the track. We eventually reached the end of the Nullarbor after about 45 kms or so as we started to see some trees, a bit less wind but still plenty of stones. Drove into the abandoned station homestead at Premier Downs for lunch. We were watched by many cattle who came to drink at the water point. It was pretty isolated and desolate place so we could understand why it was abandoned. The track was becoming drier but no less stony. Here we saw our first traffic- 5 Victorian vehicles with 3 trailers (2 Tvans) and two tents. They have some interesting track in front of them! Found a campsite on the side of the road with some stones but plenty of handy firewood. A good calm, cold and dry night. Day 6 201 Km A cold, fine morning and e were on the road just after 9.00. Very rough and stony track to start the day slow going.
At the junction of the track and the formed road we came across a Ford Spectra Van on its side in the middle of the track. Nearby with campfire going was an Aboriginal family man, wife,2 kids and 2 dogs. We were relieved that no-one was injured although the young boy had a bump on his head. A dressing soon fixed that and he was later spotted checking the dressing out in the side mirror! We helped get the van back on its wheels and tried to start it. Jumper leads, then new battery were unsuccessful as the starter motor refused to engage despite the tap hammer treatment. As it was an auto we couldn t tow start it. The sat phone was used to contact a relative at the Tjuntjuntjarra community and organise a rescue. We topped up their water and saw that they were otherwise ok and as there was nothing else we could do, we moved on. Now on a better road, after 61Km we reached a roofed water tank. We took the opportunity to top up our water supplies with the rain water. The track became less stony and the vegetation gradually changed. More Desert Oaks, Sturt Desert Peas, and some lovely soft sandy stretches. At our lunch stop more flowers were evident; wattle, cassia, mauve daisies and occasional everlastings. On this stretch we saw one live and several dead camels. Spinifex appeared in the afternoon as we proceeded further north. We diverted 6 km off the road into the Neale Breakaways very big and spectacular great colours and mounds of very sharp stones in a big circular depression. As there was a camping area here we decided to stay the night. Scrounged enough wood for a good fire with an early camp on sand!
Day 7 175 Km On the road a little earlier today as we get into the routine and the weather warms up. Anthea found a camp oven stand which we will put to good use. Fairly good run, few corrugations and the beginning of the sand dunes and a few different flowers. We reached Neale Junction about 10, checked out the survey markers, plaques and had a coffee. A great sandy track north (for a change) but lots of burnt out areas probably from lightning strikes. About an hour out from Neale Junction we caught up with a large convoy. It was the Harry Ferguson Tractor Club 17 tractors and 22 Support vehicles. Luckily they were stopped on the side of the track for a cuppa so we were able to sneak through. They were on their way to Alice Springs! We were overtaken by two vehicles who were obviously in a hurry irrespective of the conditions. We did note a bit later
as we were looking for a lunch spot and passed them, that a bonnet was up. We didn t see them again. Shortly after lunch, having let some more air out of our tyres, we passed 2 more vehicles heading south. The lead car had a broken spring and was nursing it along. We told them about the Tractor club heading their way. Red sand and sand dunes increasing together with more burnt out country and increasing number of washouts in the burnt areas. Diverted into Point Lillian - red breakaway with lots of caves some with columns. Back out onto the track and into Point Sandercock. On the way in we collected some firewood as we thought it might be a good spot to camp. The track in was very washed out in places. Level camping area but not much cover. Golden syrup dumplings from the camp oven for dessert! Day 8 124 Km The bluff was climbed and the trig point examined before departure. Track much the same. Morning tea break was at Cooper Hills bore where there is a tank and a solar powered pump. The water tasted OK. Next diversion was the track around Ryan s Bluff. A rocky washed out climb to the top of the bluff but on the eastern side was a disused runway. We rejoined the main track until we saw the track to Woods Pass. Drove in but nothing spectacular. Next point of interest was Hann s Tabletop (rock formation) where we paused for lunch. We turned right to try and find Henning Tank but were unsuccessful. We passed Waterfall gorge turn and decided to check out the next gorge Harkness. As it turned out, we only had to drive about 100 metres before we reached the turn around. Very impressive gorge, steep edges with caverns around the underside of the rim. Found a good camp site just off the road. Day 9 219 Km
On the road a bit earlier as we hoped to make Warburton around the middle of the day. Stopped at McKenzie Gorge for the views and again about 10 km later for more views of the countryside. We reached the Great Central Road and Warburton about 11.30. Refuelled, hot shower (very welcome), lunch and two very expensive replacement tyres later we were on the road again. After about 32 Km we reached the turn off for the Old Gunbarrel Highway. A very good gravel road. Stopped at a Len Beadel blazed tree and Jackie Junction for photo opportunity. Continued on a very good road util we found a suitable camping spot, without spinifex but plenty of flies, just off the road. A windy night. Day 10 156 Km Still windy and once on the road we could see where some camels had walked passed in the night. Spotted another Australian Bustard in amongst thespinifex. Paused to look at the remains of a communication mast. Very bare country here no trees but a good road. Stopped at the Mippittjarra Rockhole (roofed tank on a hill) and the Million Dollar Corner. Further down the track we came across a beautiful stand of Desert Oaks including the granddaddy of them all and we decided to make that the morning tea spot. After the junction of Twines Road the road became a track and the corrugations started! We couldn t identify the first Blazed Tree we think it may have been burnt. Saw some camel carcasses off the road. Came to the next Len Beadell marker
! on the road and had lunch in the shade of the tree. As we progressed eastwards, checking the other Len Beadell points of interest, the Rawlinson Range came into view. Crossed a stony section of track to reach a nice soft sandy section with lush vegetation. Found a good campsite in the Oaks. Day 11 358 Km A beautiful calm clear morning but only a few faint birdcalls. A good track for the rest of the way along the Rawlinson to the Great Central Road (GCR). We stopped to pump up our tyres and have a cuppa before heading into Warakuna. A quick trip into the Giles weather station. A big group of 4WDers were there and were arranging medical help for one of their group. Had a look around at the visitors centre, the plaques and the grader that did most of the tracks. Then back to the roadhouse, viewed the art in the new (to us) Art Gallery, had the highly recommended steak sandwiches for
lunch whilst chatting with the new manager before leaving for Warburton on the GCR. We paused for a break 95 Km from Warburton at a rest area. About 25km from Warburton we came across the Harry Ferguson Tractor Club setting up camp in a large cleared area. After refueling, a shower for some and picking up a bit of water we left Warburton on a bitumen road for the Heather Highway. Found a level campsite about 50 km from Warburton with fire wood and trees. Day 12 149 Km Leaving camp a little earlier each day (8.15) we continued along the Heather Highway. This is a formed graded road that goes to the Tjirrkali community. Unfortunately the turnoff to the Gunbarrel Highway is about 50 km from the GCR and about one metre after turning right at the corner the corrugations start! And with a veangence. About 40 boneshaking km later we reached The Gunbarrel. We turned right to check the lookout, cairn and 360 degree views on Mount Samuel. The track was rough and stony and this continued as we rejoined the Gunbarrel. The weather was warming up 30C at 11.30. Lots of bypasses along the track to avoid the roughest corrugations but even these were corrugated. Finally, we reached a Len Beadell tree with plaque with a water pump located 400m away. Robyn and Anthea decided to walk in while Al drove. Found the pump in good working order and a well used camping area. This pump is not shown on the Hema map. The country slowly changed to sand dunes and sandy corrugations (much more pleasant) less stress and washouts. Unfortunately it didn t last long. Had lunch at another
water pump, a poor camp site, very exposed. We passed two lots of 2 cars. Their news was track continued to be rough for a long way yet. We arrived at the Len Beadell campsite and decided to stop for the day. The pump had been sealed and the area in the immediate vicinity of the pump was pretty barren. We headed further away from the track and found a suitable area about 500m away. Day 13 96 Km Clear calm night but a windy morning. The good news was we only had about 65 km of real rough stuff to go! About 6 km from our camp was Mount Beadell. We drove the steep climb to the top to visit his monument - his theodolite (in a cage). Again very commanding views and a rock cairn. We watched a convoy of three vehicles climb up and join us. We then descended to the information board below to read the story and admire Len s cartoons. We waited there until the other group came down and invited them to go in front of us as they were obiously travelling faster than we were. We didn t see them again until Carnegie. The track remained rocky and/or corrugated for the next 65 Km as we feared, The landscape and vegetation however was starting to look fresher and more interesting. We had an early lunch in a shady spot between Mt Everard and Mt Gordon. A blackfaced Wood Swallow joined us for lunch. We paused at the junction of the Gary Highway for a photo, and at the point where Dale Carnegie (explorer) had passed heading North in 1896. From there, after collecting some firewood we continued Geraldton Bore, our overnight camping spot. The pump was working and there were a lot of Finches in the trees. A couple of Dingoes ran away as we approached and a camel let us know it was disappointed that we were there. Day 14 280 Km
Just after leaving we saw another Len Beadell tree with plaque and our wish came true road improved markedly - 80 Kph and top gear. The road had been graded in recent living memory. Arrived at Mangilli Claypan Nature Reserve and did a bit of a sidetrack to have a look at the abandoned airfield. Claypan edged with lovely Snappy gums. We took the opportunity for a coffee break. Shortly after rejoining the Gunbarrel we came across roadworks bigtime graders, rollers and dirt hauling road trains - and for many kilometres. Another photo stop at the footy oval and at Mt Nossitor. Not much of a view as the vegetation was too tall but we took photos anyway Channel 40 was taken over by a convoy of 10 Vehicles who were rapidly gaining on us. Plenty of sand dunes and sandy road edges meant we lunched on the edge of the road when a few trees appeared close by. Luckily no traffic passed. We managed to beat the 10 car convoy to Carnegie and get to the fuel pump first. Dave managed a cold shower. Not much else had changed there for years. We did meet up with the 3 car convoy from Mt Beadell. One vehicle had broken both rear spring mount bolts. Luckily the station did have spares of those. They had been at Carnegie for one night and were moving on the next day. Leaving Carnegie we continued towards Wiluna on a great road. Found a great camp area, with water views at Mingol Camp. Large River gums, lots of birds at this station outcamp. Being close to the road we saw and heard many vehicles, including the 10 car convoy racing to Wiluna. We learnt at Carnegie that they were the big group at Giles and were a day and a half behind schedule and racing to catch up. Good luck with that!
Day 15 446 Km Awoken to the sound of bird and trucks. Away from the camp at 8.20 on a great road with lots of crests and dips to Wiluna. The scenery was constantly changing with a few wildflowers starting to bloom. Arrived at Wiluna about 12, we went straight to the shop for fuel, food and icecreams. Had lunch at the Warri and Yatungka parking area then went to the Art Gallery at the Shire Office (old hospital) Three head socks with designs by the local people were purchased. Phone contacts were renewed with mobile coverage. We then had a clear run south to Leinster, went in for look and decided to stay at the caravan park. Deciding factors were a hot shower, the fish and chips special ($15.00) at the Bistro and the opportunity for a last drink together to celebrate the successful end to the trip. Rob and Al were heading for Albany next day while Geoff, Anthea and Dave were going to remain in the Leonora, Menzies are for a few more days. Thanks Geoff and Anthea for a great trip.