Totes Aucks Sorry about the headline. If it hasn t put you off, do read on to find out why you should give Auckland a chance too... WORDS FRANCESCA BAKER
Poor Auckland gets a bad rap. Ask many people what to do in New Zealand s largest city, and they ll tell you to get the hell out of there. But they are missing out. Home to 1.4 million people, one third of the country s population, it s a place full of culture and events if you know where to look. The focal point is the Waitemata harbour. Those sparkling waters stretching out to the Hauraki Gulf, ringed by the North Shore, Rangitoto Island and Waiheke Island are filled with yachts and boats. Indeed, Auckland is affectionately known as the City of Sails. A few years ago the country won the lauded America s Cup, and these days you can sail the ship that won this regatta. Take to the helm as you take in the views of the city from the water (exploregroup.co.nz). For views from above you might want to scale the Auckland Harbour Bridge, the only bridge climb in New Zealand, and, along with Sydney and Brisbane, one of the only ones in the world. The 90-minute traverse over the 67m structure is an exhilarating but easy climb with amazing views. The bridge climb was taken over by AJ Hackett, the original bungee jump company, and so those who wish to can also fling themselves off the steel structure and experience the thrill of dangling from such a height it s the only bungy in NZ where you can touch the water. As AJ Hackett celebrated its 25th birthday in 2013, they seem to be convincing many people that jumping off a bridge is a good idea (bungy.co.nz). Another peak point is the Sky Tower, the tallest manmade structure in New Zealand. From here you get a dazzling view of the blue seas and the crests of white yachts in the day, or a glistening view of the city lights at night. You can see for 80km in each direction and, while the view is not as iconic as other skylines, it is still a pretty spectacular sight. If you fancy a treat, take it all in over dinner at Orbit, the 360 revolving TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 87
restaurant (skycityauckland.co.nz). Just remember not to leave your bag on the side... To get a snapshot of all the city has to offer in one day in an energetic fashion, try the 14km Coast to Coast Walk. Starting at the harbour, this stretch takes you through Auckland University s gorgeous historical buildings and leafy streets, the Domain (Auckland s, oldest park), the tallest volcano in Auckland, Mount Eden (Maungawhau) with views across the city and skyline from its 196m and the largest pre-historic earth fort in the world at One Tree Hill, which also lends its name to a famous album by that band known as U2. (Find the map at aucklandcouncil.govt.nz.) The city is centred around Queen Street, where the CBD and shopping areas meet in a busy and bustling thoroughfare. Step to the east slightly and you will find Auckland s Art Gallery, offering an inspiring and varied collection of modern and Maori art as well as international exhibitions (aucklandartgallery.com). Toi o Tamaki, as it is known in Maori, is the largest collection of visual arts in New Zealand, and houses more than 15,000 works. Just as fascinating and varied is the ever-changing Auckland Museum, which tells interesting tales of local, national and international people and events through its interactive exhibitions, displays, and events (aucklandmuseum.com). In the west is the super trendy suburb of Ponsonby, an area dripping in understated (and overstated) bars, funky 88 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM
WHERE TO STAY Ponsonby Manor (ponsonbymanor.co.nz) is a spot that oozes comfortable style; the white timber-clad guest house with a big homely kitchen is a welcome haven to relax. For great basics in the party hub, it s all about Base (stayatbase.com). For something more homely and to meet locals, Auckland is full of great Air BnB spots. Photos: Thinkstock, Destination Great Lake Taupo and Kiwi Experience Auckland is known as the City of Sails little delis and restaurants, and boutique shops. It s here where the main nightlife, quirky restaurants and constantly evolving hipster crowd are to be found. Hours are lost exploring their bookshops with a strong coffee in hand but you know what they say: time enjoyed is never wasted. If the hubbub of the city all gets a bit much, you may want to escape but not too far. For a more relaxed pace get the ferry over to the north shores and the sleepy seaside spot of Devonport. A wander through the botanical gardens makes a great spot for a picnic, and those who climb to the peak of the Mount Victoria Reserve are rewarded with views across the Waitemata Harbour. You could easily spend days on delightful Wahieke Island, paddling in the clear waters, sipping your way around the vineyards, or exploring the many independent art galleries. To get around quickly and get your fill of fresh air, consider an e-bike. The island is pretty hilly, so the electric bikes provide a welcome whizz to your trip, but let you take in the scenery at a sedate enough pace (ecyclesnz. com). Further afield, on the west coast you will find rugged beaches and riptides, adorned with thick forests. Bush and Beach organises trips out to discover this unique region (bushandbeach.co.nz). Whatever you do in Auckland, don t just get out of there. There s more to this city than you might think. TNTDOWNUNDER.COM 89
OTHER NORTH ISLAND HIGHLIGHTS Local spa at Hot Water Beach Sail Fearless on Lake Taupo Visit Hot Water Beach, on the north jutting peninsula known as The Coromondel. Here, at low tide, you can take your spade and dig a hole in the beach. Standard. But the warm water that floods up isn t, reaching temperatures of up to 70 C. Find a cooler patch, dig your own natural pool, and lay back watching the steam shimmer up from the sand, seemingly all the way to the swathes of stars which streak across the black night sky (thecoromandel.com). Maori culture is embraced in New Zealand, and Cape Reinga, the most northerly point of the country, is a somewhat eerie yet inspiring spot. After a ride along the end of the epic 90 Mile Beach whether you believe that is the place of leaping where two realms collide and the spirits of the dead depart this world or not standing looking out into the Tasman Sea is a good place to ponder your place in the universe. Try your hand (or your stomach) at sandboarding. Akin to laying on a tea tray whilst you hurtle down a sand dune at speeds of up to 70km an hour, it s quite a thrill. If the Auckland bungee wasn t enough, head to adventure centre Taupo for some more adrenalin. Skydive Taupo (skydivetaupo.co.nz ) offers not only the highest (and cheapest) dive in the country, but is also out of a bright pink plane. Spectacular views of the mountains and volcanoes that surround the Singaporesize lake are an added bonus. My favourite way to check out the scenery has to be adrift a boat, wrapped in a blanket, with the sun going down. Glide aboard the wooden ship Fearless and see Maori carvings with a glass of wine in hand (sailfearless.co.nz). See some beautiful buildings in Napier, a city shaped by its geology. Lying on one of the world s most active tectonic fault lines, the north island city was largely destroyed by an earthquake in 1931, leaving mid-century town planners wondering how to rebuild their city. The art deco marvel they created still stands today, one of New Zealand s best architectural heritage areas and a reminder of Napier s regeneration against the odds. Downtown Wellington And of course, the world s coolest little capital, Wellington, is right at the south of the North Island. A centre of creative activity, rousing architecture and refreshing natural beauty, it s blissfully understated but busy, packed with culture but never taking itself too seriously. Whether you are exploring culture and history in Te Papa (tepapa.govt.nz), breathing in the scent of Botanic Gardens (wellington.govt.nz) or simply eating dinner down action-packed Cuba Street, the fun never ceases on North Island. 90 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM