Adventure Photo Journals Hiking Tierra del Fuego Ushuaia, Argentina
Copyright 2013 Scott David Plumlee. All text and photography by the author, except where noted with an astrick *, all rights reserved; thanks for not pirating my pics. Table of Contents: Town of Ushuaia, Argentina 4 Up to El Martial Glacier 7 Hiking Tierra del Fuego 29 Bus - Boat - Bus to Chile 38 Discover more adventures at: www.davidchain.com/travel.htm *map image from Wikimedia Commons.
After an 18 hour layover in Buenos Aires, I slept three hours on the flight to Rio Gallegos and then took a taxi to the bus station, only to find that all the ticket offices are closed until 10am. Not wanting to wait, I spontaneously jumped on the next bus leaving southbound to Ushuaia; exiting Argentina, crossing through Chile along the way, and then back into Argentina again.
Finally made it to the end of the world to the town of Ushuaia at the southern tip of Argentina and gateway to the Tierra del Fuego (land of fire) National Park. It only took three days, three border crossings, three planes, a 12 hour bus ride, and a ferry crossing.
On the bus ride I met Max, a funny French guy who had a reservation at a hip hostel, so we shouldered our rucksacks and hiked up the hill from the harbor. The Freestate Hostel s bar was filled with a fun international crowd with many people going to Antarctica, leaving on the last boat of the season. These last minute tickets were running only $3,000 for 10 days sailing, but I can get a lot further on three grand then these yuppies. Not wanting to pay the hostel prices for food, Max and I went out to a street corner shop for churizopan, an Argentinan fast food specialty of a grilled meat sausage served on a bread bun like an American hot dog. We wandered around town, asked directions, and found the one and only bar in town. As luck would have it - it was an Irish bar.
So amazing to sleep in a bed again and get a full eight hours of rest; I feel like me again. After my yoga practice, I looked out the window and was awe-struck by the view of a gleaming white glacier outside of town, just above the treeline - calling me to pay a visit.
I walked out of town towards a clear cut running up the hillside, which turned out to be a T-bar pulley to take skiers up the hill. I m starting to get a view of town and over the bay.
As I reached the top of the hill, I almost stepped on this super cool, yellow mushroom. Took a break for lunch and found a trail leading eastward, hopefully towards the glacier.
Taking my time I hiked along some really nice, but oddly wide, trails through the forest. Once I saw this sign, I realized that these trails had been cleared for cross-country skiing.
I crossed bridges along the way, passing over crystal clear, glacial-melt water. I filled my canteen and drank deep, blessed to quench my thirst on such great tasting, natural water.
The cross-country ski trail led me out onto a blacktop road, then up through a short ski hill, and into a steep hiking trail that traveled up above the treeline to the hanging glacier.
As this image accurately represents, the sun is seriously intense in southern Argentina, giving me a sunburn through my 30 spf sunscreen; but a small price to pay for the view.
As I steadily hiked upwards getting closer to the glacier, I stepped out of the sunshine and into the shadow of the mountain and shivered as the temperature dropped 20 degrees - burr.
The glacier is not that impressive, thanks to global warming, but the view is outstanding; out over the town of Ushuaia, Begal Bay, and the Tierra del Fuego Mountains in the distance.
Walking downhill is much easier and more enjoyable, allowing me time to notice details that I missed on my assent; like these ski chairs waiting for winter fun in the snow.
Enchanted forests filled with oddly angled trees pushed over by seasonal avalanched snow.
Down in a creek crossing I found these foam cubes - what could these possibly be used for?
Decided to leave the cubes alone and get a shot of me shadow-juggeling them! Ha ha.
The Dublin Pub, famous for being the one and only bar in Ushuaia, is hand s down one of the best locations to celebrate Saint Patrick s Day with five freckled girls from Ireland - grin.
I checked out of the snazzy hostel and hiked up to the Refugio for some quiet camping. Stopped by the grocery store and got supplies for a hot dinner; spiral pasta, red sauce in a pouch, a can of tuna, and dry Parmesan cheese - carbs, protein, and so delicious - yum.
Had to remind myself that I was in the southern hemisphere last night when I saw the Southern Cross constellation, and again this morning, when the sun rose in the northeast instead of the southeast as it would have back home. I m such a Earth-science geek!
I met Max for breakfast, and we took a bus from Ushuaia to Tierra del Fuego National Park, which is stunningly beautiful; however, almost all of the trails just stroll along the lake edge.
Looking for some elevation, I found the only trail leading uphill for a view of the lake. This photograph was shot about half way up a steep switchback at a rock ledge viewpoint.
Hiking is so rewarding - for every step you take upward, your view behind keeps changing.
2000-meter elevation change above the lake below helps to lend a new perspective to size.
Hiking up steep loose-rock scree slopes is not easy work, but the well worn path is inviting.
Canadian Kelly Michelle and French Max - two cool cats that hiked with me to the top.
I m posing calmly for the picture, but the wind is threatening to push me off the summit.
What an amazing hike, we went up and down with time for lunch in just under three hours; so whomever made this sign must have short legs or a fast watch - ha!
Kelly, Max, and I celebrated our summit success with a beer at the local bar in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Shuttle bus back to Ushuaia for a steak dinner and long walk back to my campsite for an overdue good night s sleep. I m so glad I took the time to have a warm-up round of hiking and camping before the week-long, ass-kicking trek around Torres del Paine NP.
March 19th: Woke to my alarm at 6:00am, had my kit packed by 6:30, made coffee, protein shake, 3 eggs, 2 oranges, smoke and a big shit in time for the 7:30 taxi to the Comapa office for the 8:00am bus to Puerto Natalas. Long day in transit as we don t arrive until 10:00pm, but I m excited to cross into Chile to hike the Torres del Paine.
Buses loading onto a ferry before crossing the Strait of Magellan from Argentina to Chile.
Kittens are cute - even wild, feral cats found along the Strait of Megellan s coastline are cute!
Science fact: The Earth is roughly 24,000 miles around at the Equator, there are 24 hours in one day; thus we are spinning at 1,000 miles per hour, only seen by the sun s movement!
Thanks for joining me on this adventure to Tierra del Fuego, hope you liked the scenery! Won t you join me for my next adventure to hike around the Torres Del Paine National Park, and many other international destinations at: www.davidchain.com/travel.htm