Siena Siena is one of Italy's loveliest medieval cities, and a trip worth making even if you are in Tuscany for just a few days. When you mention Lucca, everyone says I looove Lucca ; when you mention Siena, the die-hard connoisseurs of all things Italian say I sooooo loooooooooove Siena. You see the difference? Once upon a time in a land far away, Siena was a power that rivalled Florence, Genoa and Venice; it was bigger than Paris. Until, in 1348, the Black Death arrived and reduced Siena s population from 60,000 to less than a third of that; Siena never recovered. The city was rendered a political and economic backwater by the Spanish, and it was preserved in a mediaeval marinade. Which is great news for us... Siena is usually a day trip and really, it shows itself in all its glory at twilight. As Italy s ultimate hill town, its thriving historic centre and its red-brick lanes, flowing like rivers of lava, are at their best in the soft glow of half-light. The city sits on three hills; it was first settled in the time of the Etruscans, somewhere between 900 to 400 BC; it was inhabited by a tribe called the Saina. Local legend has it that Siena was founded by Senius and Aschius, two sons of Remus and thus nephews of Romulus, after whom Rome was named. Siena's
emblem is the she-wolf who suckled Romulus and Remus!! It s really easy to get lost in Siena with its streets that go in every direction but a straight line. But please, you will always be found so explore... away from Il Campo!! What to see and experience (besides the city itself) while you re in Siena; this is a list of the must-see-and-if-i-don tmust-come-back-another-time sights: Il Campo Well, you just can t miss it... if all roads lead to Rome, everything in Siena leads to Il Campo. It really is the best square in all of Italy and it is shaped like a shell, which is why it s a square. It fans out from the Palazzo Pubblico (city hall) and creates an amphitheatre; people lie on it as you would lie on a beach... Sienese society is founded on competing Contrada (neighbourhood districts) and Il Campo, as the original local marketplace, was the obvious place to hold the Palio, a twice-yearly horse race. Of course, the red-brick surface is divided into nine sections, which represent the council of nine merchants and city non-egalitarians. The history of this city is just fascinating... no prizes for guessing there are nine Contrada! The square is dominated by the City Hall to which the City Tower (Italy s tallest secular tower) is adjacent. At the base of the tower is a chapel built as thanks to God for ending the Black Death. It is exactly the same height as the tower on the Cattedrale... to indicate the equality of church and state... and is called Il Torre de Mangia, or Tower of the Eater, apparently after its first bell ringer...
Duomo Siena opened to Christianity in the early 4th Century and the Duomo wasn t begun until the 12th century; it is a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque-Gothic architecture. Its main façade was completed in 1380; the inlaid marble mosaic floor, is among the most elaborate in Italy; and there is an internal staircase to climb for a favoloso view of the city. The Baptistery is subterranean; there wasn t room to put it anywhere else. Sculptors whose works contribute to the joy of the baptistery font, are Donatello, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Jacopo della Quercia, to name just three. This is a veritable mine of artistic splendour.
The Nave... the heads of 172 popes peer down on you. They reigned from the time of Peter to the 12 th Century and with striped columns, a coffered dome, a huge stained-glass window, and an art gallery of early Renaissance works, it s all a bit busy. You must also check out the Piccolimono Altar which was designed for the tomb of Francesco Todeschini Piccolomini, but never used, because he was promoted from cardinal of Siena to Pope, and is buried in the Vatican. The Dome itself has a coffered ceiling, of which there seem to be many in Italy, and is therefore a painted illusion. Pisano s Pulpit is an octagonal structure with seven narrative panels telling the life of Christ and nine decorative columns carved out of Carrara marble. It s quite something with its supporting lions, representing the devouring of paganism, and it is the work of Nicola Pisano. Duccio s stained glass Rose window created in 1288, what you see here is a copy, the original having been moved to the Duomo Museum. But nonetheless stunning! Chapel of the Madonna del Voto explains why Lorenzo Bernini is considered to be the greatest Baroque sculptor... Piccolomini Library, where the frescoes capture the spirit of the 1400s; the birth of the Renaissance.
The Crypt Wonderful place... but I love crypts! This one is of archaeological significance because it is the site of a 12 th Century Romanesque church that provided the foundation for the church of today. Recently excavated, the frescoes are amazing... Duomo Museum Just lovely... a truly enjoyable experience! Santa Maria della Scala Originally a hospital (until the 1980s), this museum is opposite the Duomo entrance. The labyrinthine 12 th Century cellars were used in mediaeval times as storage for the hospital; they go down several floors and are very cool; if you re visiting in summer, it s a good place to investigate as it s usually very hot outside! And the different floors house many, many exhibits. The Church of San Domenico A huge brick church, also known as Basilica Cateriniana, dates from 1226. It is an enormous, severe structure jutting above a modern section of town, and provides good views of the Duomo and Siena's rooftops. It contains St. Catherine's head and finger in a gilt reliquary case on the altar.
Sanctuary of St. Catherine Or Fontebranda, is better known as the birthplace of Saint Catherine, the famous Sienese mystic who died in 1380, was canonised in 1461, and named doctor of the church in 1970. Bought by the Council of Siena in 1466 this, her house of birth, was transformed into a real sanctuary. This is the woman who helped convince the pope to return from Avignon in France, to Rome. Shopping High street is Via Banchi di Sopra, where you can buy flags (very, very important to the Sienese and great souvenirs... remember the flag throwing in Under the Tuscan Sun?!), and Tipici, from Tipici shops which sell Sienise sweet specialities. If you re on a diet, forget it!! When faced with Panforte and panpepato or ricciarelli (to name but a few), to resist would be stupid... Not to mention the favoloso marketa... cheeses, salamis, sausages, fruit and vegetables...