ARGENTINA Travel report 1 till 22 NOVEMBER 2018 North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 1
Say Hueque Contents Day 1 Friday, 2 November, 2018 Buenos Aires... 3 Day 2 Saterday, 3 November, 2018 Buenos Aires Half Day City Tour & The Argentine Experience: Cocktail & Dinner... 3 Day 3 Sunday, 4 November, 2018 Buenos Aires Dinner & Tango Show... 4 Day 4 Monday, 5 November, 2018 Buenos Aires / Mendoza... 5 Day 5 Tuesday, 6 November, 2018 Mendoza Full Day Wine Tour with lunch... 6 Day 6 Wednesday, 7 November, 2018 Mendoza / Salta... 6 Day 8 Friday, 9 November, 2018 Purmamarca Humahuaca Gorge / Salta... 8 Day 9 Saterday, 10 November, 2018 Salta Calchaqui Valley Excursion / Cachi... 9 Day 10 Sunday, 11 November, 2018 Cachi / Cafayate... 10 Day 11 Monday, 12 November, 2018 Cafayate Salta... 10 Day 12 Tuesday, 13 November, 2018 Salta... 11 Day 13 Wednesday, 14 November, 2018 Salta / Puerto Iguazu... 11 Day 14 Thursday, 15 November, 2018 Puerto Iguazu Iguazu National Park: Argentine Side... 12 Day 15 Friday, 16 November, 2019 Puerto Iguazu Iguazu National Park: Brazilian Side... 12 Day 16 Saterday, 17 November, 2018 Puerto Iguazu Full Day San Ignacio Ruins & Wanda Mines... 13 Day 17 Sunday, 18 November, 2018 Puerto Iguazu / Buenos Aires... 14 Day 18 Monday, 19 November, 2018 Buenos Aires Full Day Farm Day Fiesta Gaucha... 14 Day 19 Tuesday, 20 November, 2018 Buenos Aires... 15 North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 2
Overview of the trip Day 1 Friday, 2 November, 2018 Buenos Aires Arrival @ Buenos Aires 09u40. Agostina, our destination host, was welcoming us at the airport, with a bottle of wine, after a restful flight out of Paris and the car brought us to the Hotel Clásico in Palermo Hollywood, Costa Rica, (a one hour drive) where the room was already waiting for us. A refreshment and ready we were to go! In the afternoon we planned the Graffiti Free Walking Tour starting in Palermo Soho. Walking down Honduras we came to the Plazoletta Julio Cortazar where we had a lunch in Macondobar i. The tour started at 3pm and more and more people showed up close to the meeting time; the tour was mentioned @ 200$ but due to the inflation it was now $400 pp. The guide took us through Soho for a 3 ½ hour walk along the most important graffiti and gave clear explanations about their makers. Most important is that the artists are invited to paint the houses with graffiti by the owners; so we see all signed works of art from Masti, Martin Ron, Halcon, Darloconda and the seven floor high work of Nage. After the walk we re getting tired and had a quick bite in a pizzeria Bakano ii on the corner of Fritz Roy and Costa Rica; a good place with happy hour all day long! Day 2 Saterday, 3 November, 2018 Buenos Aires Half Day City Tour & The Argentine Experience: Cocktail & Dinner Again Agostina picked us up for a tour around the city of Buenos Aires. First we went to Recoletta, the rich neighborhood with the parks and embassies with a stop at the famous flower, Floris Genérica, along the Palais de Glace to the Cemeterio de la Recoletta to visit the tomb of Eva Duarte. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 3
In the park Agostina prepared the mate which we enjoyed. Through Recoletta we visited El Ateneo, an old theater which is now a book store, and through the center along the Plaza de la Republica with the obelisk down to the Plaza de Mayo. Here we visited the Catedral Metropolina and walked along the Casa Rosada and the Piramide Mayo. Agostina gave us explanations and history of the monuments plus info on the colors of the scarfs with different meanings like pro or contra abortion, inflations, the mothers still coming every Thursday to claim their sons etc. From here we went down to La Boca, through the narrow streets of San Telmo, where we enjoyed the touristic tour around the painted housed and Tango dancers all around. In La Boca we went around the Caminito down to the harbor on Plazoleta de los Suspiros and back over Magallanes where we entered a few Coventillos. The car brought us along the Stade Boca Juniors to drop us at the Mercado de San Telmo. A walk through the market made us known the famous sweets with Dulce di Lece. As time was passing fast and lunch was in sight, we asked to drop us at the Plaza de Mayo. A quick lunch in National opposite of the Parroquia San Ingnatio de Layola we visited the Feria del Regiones on Avenida de Mayo with representative stands of all the regions promoting their local products and attractions. We went slowly back over the Avenida Presidente Roque Sáenz Peña to the Obelisco along those wonderful buildings. On the Avenida 9 de Julio we went to see the Teatro Colon, but in the Plaza Libertad we got stuck due to the heat and the fatigue Then looking for a taxi on Santa Fe to get some rest in the hotel. The Happy Hour welcomed us for some drinks and by 6pm we went to the Argentine Experience for the cocktail and dinner: more than an experience! We started making different wine based cocktails followed by an empanada tutorial, where everyone had to make his own, followed by a great dinner with lots of wines. We were lucky the hotel was at walking distance Day 3 Sunday, 4 November, 2018 Buenos Aires Dinner & Tango Show As Sunday most people go the park, so also we did. A first stop at the Evita Museum iii : in the mansion a lot of photo s and objects are displayed but the explanation is in Spanish only Anyhow, with our little Spanish knowledge, we North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 4
could find out what it was all about. In the park we could see French statues of Rodin, the Monumento a Domingo Faustino Sarmiente, and the Erythrina cristina galli (Ceibo) which is the National flower of Argentina; all over the city the Jacaranda was flowering with its marvelous blue flowers. Then direction Rose Garden: a beautiful garden with of course plenty of roses of all varieties, it s spring! We didn t had the courage to go to the center due to the heat, so we walked back into Palermo Soho to find a lunch place which we did in La Barata iv, on Thames: this was a place plenty of Argentine people having their family Sundaylunch. A great place! In the afternoon we revisited the graffiti s of Palermo and enjoyed fellow photographers with models in the streets; this gave an extra touch to the works of art. After Happy Hour and a refresh we went to the Tangueria La Ventana, in San Telmo, for the dinner and Tango Show. Nice to see but very loud music and very crowdie and average food A real tourist attraction, too touristic, but nevertheless a very beautiful tango show. Day 4 Monday, 5 November, 2018 Buenos Aires / Mendoza The pick up time was 8 :40 which brought us to the Jorge Newbery airport. After a 2 hour flight, a little after 1pm we were arriving in Mendoza where again a pick up brought us to the Huentala Hotel, next to the Sheraton and casino. After a lunch in Beirut Café v, we wandered the rest of the afternoon through the city along the Plaza Espagna, Independence Plaza and the Plaza San Martin with the colonial palace, ex Banco Hipotecario Nacional, on the corner of Gutièrres with a photo exhibition. The Basilica de San Francisco was closed and in the Mercado Central most of the shops too; wait till after 5m! Walking back brought us along some nice Pasaje in old colonial style Art Deco/Art Nouveau, to the Samiento, the place to be for eating and drinking in the center. In the evening we selected Bocca vi to have our dinner. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 5
Day 5 Tuesday, 6 November, 2018 Mendoza Full Day Wine Tour with lunch Today, starting in the rain but clearing out as time passed, we visited three wineries South of Mendoza, the Luján de Cuyo region with its Malbec. Clos de Chacras, Bodega Vistalba and Nieto Senetiner where we had the very good lunch with lots of wine All the grapes are collected in concrete containers for the first fermentation; then they go into oak barrels for 3, 6 or 12 months before being bottled. The oak barrels are only used for 3 years. In the evening we went back to the Basilica de San Francisco, open now, and the Mercado Central with its rich animation. From there to the hip area in Aristides, where we spend the rest of the evening in Pirca, a nice bar. Day 6 Wednesday, 7 November, 2018 Mendoza / Salta In the morning we walked around the Avenida San Martin to visit some other Pasaje s until the pick up came at 11:40 for our 1 hour and 40 minutes flight to Salta. The Del Virrey Hotel, on 20 De Febrero, is perfectly located between the city center and the Northern dining area of the city and located in a very calm hacienda with a small swimming pool. The afternoon brought us to the center with the Plaza 9 de Julio and the Central Basilica. Looking for a dining place mentioned in our Guide du Routard we went on Caseros to see the Convento de San Franciso and to locate the place La Posada vii, which we had in our guide. Here we ll come back tonight! North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 6
Day 7 Thursday, 8 November, 2018 Salta Excursion Salt Flats and Humahuaca Gorge / Purmamarca Our first 2 day (shared) excursion will bring us to the North of Salta. As this trip will bring us high in the mountains, we had a first stop to buy some coca leafs. In the beginning we drive in a rainy weather along the tobacco plantations and then after Campo Quijano, into the mountains with suddenly clear sky s as the clouds cannot pass the mountains, along the Train of Clouds with its overwhelming viaducts : Viaduct Torre, Gobernador Manuel. A stop in Parroquia Santa Rita for the church at 2803m and further zigzag to a viewpoint at 4083m and finally reach, for lunchtime, San Antonio de los Cobres at 3778m. After the lunch we entered the Parque Provincial los Andes to visit the Saline Grandes at 3411m. Lithium is collected out of the salt. One last mountain pass at 4185m and the down to Pueblito de Purmamarca to find our wonderful boutique hotel Los Colorados located on a trail along the 3 and 7 colored mountain of Jujuy. A wonderful trail of 3.5km overlooking the area and the colored maintains. After the trail we ended up in the town and had a great picada in Café la Casa viii. The central place, plaza 9 de Julio, is one big market with dolls, poncho s and small handicraft for the one day tourists who have a 15min stopover, but now it s rather quiet. The Iglesia Santa Rosa hides between the shops. In the evening, when everything was very quiet, we went down on Florida into town and were invited to a small restaurant ix where a musician duo did their best to steal the show. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 7
Day 8 Friday, 9 November, 2018 Purmamarca Humahuaca Gorge / Salta In the free morning we went back on the trail to see the 3 colored mountain again but now with rising sunlight. We were picked up around 11h and then direction Pucará de Tilcara x where we visited the ruins located on a hill with massive cactae for protection in the Quebrada. Tilcara means falling star in quechua and pucará fortress build in the pre Columbian Inca time. It has been reconstructed with labyrinth of houses easy to defend in case of attack. Further a stop in a ceramic factory famous for their black pottery. The lunch we had in Humahuaca xi, a small town with a beautiful cathedral and the Independence Monument of Soto Avendaño. Now we re heading back to Salta with a stop in Uquia for its small church with paintings of the angels Arcabuceros from the Cusco school. After the colored mountain of Maimara to the city of Jujuy to visit the Catedral Basilica Santisimo Salvador and the Casa de Gobierno, the only open to the public. After sunset we arrive back in Salta where a fresh beer and Tabla Papa xii is very welcome. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 8
Day 9 Saterday, 10 November, 2018 Salta Calchaqui Valley Excursion / Cachi Today we start the 3 day private tour with El Turco in a 4x4 to the South of Salta with first Cachi as destination. In El Carril we leave RN68 to go on the RP33 into the mountains via Punta Mal Paso (1623m), Punta Mal Cante (1816m), S.F. de Escoipe (2010m) and the Parador El Maray for a drink. Further climbing over San Martin to Abra Pedra de Molino (3355m) and into the Parque Nacional Los Cardones to have a walk around cacti in Secretes del Cardinal (2901m). After reaching the RN40 we arrive in Cachi in hotel Sol Del Valle (2280m). Cachi is a small town with a, how could it be, Plaza de 9 de Julio and its Iglesia de San José, the archeological museum and lot of bars all around. Our driver suggested El Aujero xiii for lunch where we had a very good meal and local wine. As temperature doesn t stop climbing, we look for some fresh air in the Archeological museum xiv and then head back to the hotel for the afternoon nap. In the evening, when temperature is coming down a bit, we walk back to the Plaza for some drinks and snacks. Lots of young travelers and bikers stay overnight as most tourist head back to Salta which is a pity because the area is beautiful. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 9
Day 10 Sunday, 11 November, 2018 Cachi / Cafayate Today we will follow the RN40 highway, actually a gravel road through the mountains with a first stop in Molinos (2042m) with its Iglesia de San Pedro de Nolasco followed by a fresh beer in the Hacienda de Molinos. Slowly going down now to Las Torres (1953m), El Carmen, Angostaco, Oda Las Flechas (1901m), El Vestiqero (1938m) to San Carlos for an empanada lunch in La Recoba xv. The last hop brings us to Cafayate (1622m) hotel Killa Cafayate. In the evening we walk around the Plaza 20 de Febrero and enjoy a typical local beer Burra. Our guide suggested having lunch in El Rancho xvi on the terrace: a great place once again. Day 11 Monday, 12 November, 2018 Cafayate Salta We start with a visit of a small winery Vasija Secreta ; famous for this area is the Torrentes white wine. Then the trip through the Quebrada de las Conchas along the Rió las Conchas with multiple viewpoints: La Yesera, Los Castillos (citadelles), Las Ventanas (also called the Titanic), El Obelisco, El Fraile (the priest), El Sapo, Mirador Tres Cruces, El Anfitheatro, Garganta del Diablo and El Hongo. The lunch we take in Parador Posta de las Cabras xvii, a small restaurant with great picadas, and then back to Salta. Our guide suggested having dinner somewhere in the North area of Salta, 400m from the hotel, on Balcarce; we found Peña de Soñada xviii a great place with good food (goat!) and multiple shows of gaucho dancers and musicians. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 10
Day 12 Tuesday, 13 November, 2018 Salta We discovered Salta with the Free Walking Tour starting on the Catedral Basilica: the tour brought us along the MAAM, Centro Cultural America and the Cabildo de Salta to the Convento de San Francisco. Following our steps we encountered the Convento San Bernardo and through the wealthy area of the city on the Monumento a Güemes. Now back into town along one of the best meat restaurants Viracocha to the Comando Central Policia, the former jail of Salta. We had lunch in the MAAM Salta bar xix. Walking around in the city is a pleasure; we visited now the Catedral Basilica, the Cabildo de Salta xx and the Convento de San Francisco and in the evening we returned to Balcarce for our dinner. Day 13 Wednesday, 14 November, 2018 Salta / Puerto Iguazu In the morning we walked once more in the nice city of Salta, visited the Museo de Archeologia de Alta Montaña xxi (MAAM) with his two famous mummies. The best to do is to have the video in English first before visiting the museum. We had a lunch and around 14h the pick up service brought us to the airport for a 1h45 min flight to Puerto Iguazu (16:00 17:45). North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 11
A ride to the tropical forest brought us to the eco hotel El Pueblito; its late in the afternoon so we refresh and go for dinner in the Marco Polo xxii restaurant for a delightful paella. Day 14 Thursday, 15 November, 2018 Puerto Iguazu Iguazu National Park: Argentine Side Our guide brings us to the park entrance xxiii and from here we take the train to the Estación Garganta del Diablo, our first visit of the 90m fall. Covering the camera in a rainproof plastic bag is not an option but a must as the water and the mist is omnipresent. Next the train back to Caracas to visit the Lower Falls with its multiple viewpoints s.a. Salto Chico, Salto Bossetti, Salto Mbiguá. After a lunch in Fortin xxiv we now head for the Upper Falls where you get the extreme views over the complete waterfalls. This time we have our dinner in the Hotel El Publito xxv. Day 15 Friday, 16 November, 2019 Puerto Iguazu Iguazu National Park: Brazilian Side Passing the Brazil border is easy for us: as Belgium doesn t require a Visa for Brazilians, Brazilians do the same; easy and convenient. Everything is now explained in Portuguese and money is Reals. Luckily they are very prepared for it and the VISAcounter is fast and easy with the help of a hostess xxvi. The bus brings us to the beginning of the one way trail which offers a beautiful overview of the falls. All steps down till a wooden bridge lets you walk over the falls (a raincoat is a must). An elevator brings us back up so that we can return to Argentina and have a lunch in Puerto Iguazu on the Avenida Córdoba (the restaurant street) in A Piacere xxvii with again very tasty fish on the menu. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 12
After lunch we had the intention to walk to the Triple Frontera (Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina) but it was too warm, so we took a taxi back to the hotel for a nap. As the Eco Hotel had an Eco Garden with a variety of flowers, butterflies and rain forest animals; we walked around the trail in the shadow. Day 16 Saterday, 17 November, 2018 Puerto Iguazu Full Day San Ignacio Ruins & Wanda Mines A tour to the ruins of the Jesuit Mission is next on schedule. First we drive through the tropical rain forest till we reach the Wanda Mines xxviii where we walk through the tunnels to see all the precious stones embedded in the basalt rock: amethyst, turquoise and rock cristals. In the end a visit of the craft shop is a must. Then heading towards San Ignacio where the ruins were rediscovered in 1897. It s a group tour so the restaurant xxix for lunch is waiting for us; all Argentinean went inside for the airco but European tourists choose the terrace. After lunch the visit we visit the ruins xxx alone (as there is no English guide willing to do it for 2 persons and the bus guide only speaks Spanish), build in 1632 by Jesuit Monks, and had a wealthy period for about 200 years. First we visit the museum with some nice baroque objects and a maquette of the site. Then towards the main entrance to see the red sandstone remains of the houses and cathedral which is North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 13
over 60m long with walls of 2m. The masterpiece are the monumental colonnades of the cathedral, handcrafted and sculpted by the Guarani artists. On the way back a stop in a cooperative in Jardin América where we can taste the local sweets and buy Mate, locally harvested and prepared. It s already dark when we re back in Puerto Ignazio so after refreshment we have dinner in the hotel behind El Publito, Cabañas del Leñador xxxi, in a nice park. Day 17 Sunday, 18 November, 2018 Puerto Iguazu / Buenos Aires The flight to Buenos Aires was delayed (we didn t know that but the agency did, told it to the hotel but then it got lost ) so we had a pick up by noon; boarding passes were already prepared so we didn t had to wait in the airport but in the relaxing garden of the hotel. As usual communication is a general problem in Argentina but we got used to that. After a 2 hour flight we re back in Buenos Aires, ready for a Happy Hour drink and the dinner in La Dorita de Enfrente xxxii, a place with wonderful meat, so sweet and tasty, and a good bottle of wine. Day 18 Monday, 19 November, 2018 Buenos Aires Full Day Farm Day Fiesta Gaucha At 8:45 we have the pick up to bring us to San Antonio de Areco; the guide during the trip explained a lot about the country as we left the city and discovered the gaucho lands. In San Antonio de Areco we visit a silver atelier and one of the oldest shops/café in town called boliches. Next we drive to Estancia El Ombú de Areco where we were welcomed with a fresh beer and empanadas. Then a horseback ride through the pampas is on the program: nice and relaxing. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 14
The BBQ is by now ready and the feast can start: so many different kind of meat, well prepared, salads and lots, lots of wine! At the end of the dinner the show starts with gaucho dances and a very special horse show. Day 19 Tuesday, 20 November, 2018 Buenos Aires On our last day in Buenos Aires I wanted to revisit the center and walk to Puerto Madero to see the old harbor which is now one of the most trendy and expensive places in town. One side is for the young people with snack bars and fast food, the city side has selected high class restaurants. The Puente de la Mujer is a new bridge with alongside the ship ARA Presidente Sarmiento. From the harbor we let ourselves wander through the pedestrian shopping streets towards the Obelisco where we took a taxi back to the hotel. In the evening we had a farewell dinner in the restaurant annex to the Evita Museum; a very good place to end our wonderful trip. North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 15
Overview of the expenses for eating and visiting: i Macondobar lunch for 2 with beer: $570 ii Bakano Pizza and some beers : $960 iii Evita Museum: $180 pp iv La Barata: $905 for 2 v Beirut Café: $510 for 2 vi Bocca: $750 for 2 vii La Posada: $1280 for 2 with wine viii Café la Casa: $520 ix Purmamarca: $510 2p plus wine x Pucará de Tilcara: $300 pp entrance fee xi Humahuaca: $660 2p xii Tabla Papa: $745 2p xiii El Aujero: $770 2p with good local wine xiv Archeological museum: $60 pp xv La Recoba: $120 2p xvi El Rancho: $800 2p with Torrentes wine xvii Parador Posta de las Cabras: $545 2p xviii Peña de Soñada: $1,100 2p with wine xix MAAM Salta bar: $300 xx Cabildo de Salta: $20pp entrance fee xxi MAAM: $200 pp xxii Marco Polo: $1,190 2p with wine xxiii Iguazu National Park: $600 pp xxiv Fortin: $390 2p xxv El Publito: $910 2p with wine xxvi Iguazu NP Brazil side: Rs138 2p xxvii A Piacere: $1,420 2p xxviii Wanda Mines: $100 pp xxix San Ignacio: $510 2p xxx San Ignacio ruins: $230 pp xxxi Cabañas del Leñador: $1,500 2p with wine xxxii La Dorita de Enfrente: $1,385 2p with wine North Argentina Say Hueque 2018 Page 16