WHW Saturday 16 May Our expedition actually began on Saturday 16 May 2009. Trish, George, Jacqui and myself in one car met with Dave and Rosemary in the support car on the road leading to Dave's house in Colchester at 0800hrs. Following the directions of uncle TomTom, we headed towards Carlisle where we were to meet some of the other team members at a motorway service station. At 1330hrs, we arrived at Southwaite services just south of Carlisle and met up with Rich Butt and Mike (Moggy) Morgan. As it was almost feeding time we decided to head over to the Burger King to sample some of their culinary delights, I then phoned Daniel (my son) as he was going to meet us all at the first campsite. At approx 1430hrs, we left heading towards our start point in Milngavie. As Moggy was driving like an old lady in an electric scooter, Dave took the lead and we arrived some 2 hours later at Bankell Farm Campsite. On arrival we were met by Daniel and proceeded to set up our campsite, in fact we managed to take over the whole area (this was to become the norm at every stop). After setting up we headed off to recce Milngavie and the start point of the West Highland Way. Once this was completed we all opted for a take away from the local chip shop, this proved to be unwise as it was probably the worst meal we had during the expedition, the curry sauce was disgusting. When feeding time was over we all headed back to the campsite and took over the area of the barn. Quantities of Stella, Cider and Breezers were consumed before heading off to bed at 2230hrs. Just as we were all dropping off to sleep the whole campsite was awoken by Mike accidentally turning on his wind up radio which was on full blast. The sounds continued throughout the night starting with Daniel snoring, quickly followed by the rest of us. It rained during the night and this was the start of the weather to come. Sunday 17 May On day 1 of our journey, I awoke at 0615hrs, to the sounds of Dave putting on the brew. Next Rich appeared with his deep booming voice and Dave tried to hush him but it was too late, if anyone was asleep they weren't after that. Trish was awake so she went for a shower whilst I packed away the camping gear as concurrent activity, I then went for a shower. Dave cooked breakfast which consisted of sausage and beans, washed down with large amounts of coffee. Whilst Rosemary and Jacqui prepared our packed lunch whilst the rest of us tried to find someone to pay for the camping and car parking. We finally found another Page 1
camper who had stayed before, he told us that the office wasn't open at weekends and that monies had to be put through the letter box. We collected the funds and placed in an envelope marked with which cars were staying, at 5 per person and 2 per car per night it was a bargain. We then packed away the tents and packed the support vehicle, Dave's Mondeo estate (affectionately named the "Shed" by Rosemary), as we were moving the cars to the parking area, Daniel managed to drive over his burgan, luckily nothing was damaged except for his pride. I then did two runs with walkers and kit to the start of the West Highland Way in my car, Rosemary then returned me to the start point in the Shed. Following a photo shoot at the start point we headed off on the walk at 0930hrs. The weather was at first cloudy but the sun broke through and stayed for the 1st day of the journey, Milngavie to Easter Drumquhassle Farm near to Drymen a total of 11.5 miles. We stopped along the route at the 7 mile point for lunch consisting of tuna and lime rolls, chocolate bars and coffee, we should have waited for another half a mile as we found a pub on the route. At this point it was noted that Rich had opted to wear Ron Hill leggings for walking, not a pretty site. We arrived at our destination at 1315hrs, the pace for day 1 being quite fast (this changed for most in the following days). Rosemary and Jacqui had 2 of the tents up and a brew on. As the weather was fine equipment was sorted for the next day and journals updated. In the evening after showering in the only cubicle available we sat down for dinner consisting of boil in the bag, courtesy of H.M.Forces, followed by Stella or in Rich and Mike's case, cider, whilst playing cards. We were all in bed by 2230hrs anticipating the 15.5 mile route from Easter Drumquhassle Farm to Rowardennan the following day. Monday 18 May An early start today as this was to be the longest leg of the walk. Everyone was up at 0615hrs but Daniel had to be pried out of his sleeping bag. As the routine was gaining momentum, equipment was packed by some whilst others showered or prepared breakfast. Rosemary and Jacqui cooked egg rolls for breakfast and prepared the packed lunches, once this was complete, tents were packed and all equipment stowed away on the support vehicle. At 0905hrs, we left the campsite heading for Rowardennan. As it was wet and windy, wet Page 2
weather clothing was worn. The start of this leg was mainly flat for the first few miles, but this gave way to more hilly terrain leading almost to the peak of Conic Hill, this was approximately the 7 mile point. At this point we stopped for lunch overlooking Loch Lomond. The walk continued down to the village of Balmaha, as we were crossing the main road we bumped into Rosemary and Jacqui, they were on the way to the shops for supplies. We then carried on to Cashel Caravan and Campsite where burgans were dropped off at the main tent, this had already been erected. It was then decided that we would stop and make coffee before continuing, this was when the midges came out for a feast, head nets and insect repellent were quickly administered. After finishing the brew we started on the final 4 miles of the days walk, passing through a woodland area heading to the Youth Hostel at Rowardennan. Dave, Rich and Moggy picked up the pace and by the time the rest of us had finished at 1600hrs, they already had had a coffee and a cider at the local pub. Rosemary then arrived and ferried all of us back to the campsite (back 4 miles). Once at the campsite the rest of the tents were erected and general admin completed before we were ferried back to Balmaha where we had excellent food and beer at the Oak Tree pub (the burgers and steak pie were lovely), this is where Daniel bumped into someone he works with. After the meal it was back to the campsite for some much needed sleep. Tuesday 19 May Day 3 of our journey started very early with everyone up at 0600hrs, as this was another long leg of the walk from Rowardennan to Inverarnan a distance of 14 miles. After breakfast consisting of boil in the bag bacon and beans, Rosemary ferried the walking group to the Youth Hostel at Rowardennan our start point for the day and the site where we finished the previous day. The walk commenced at 0855hrs, which was even earlier than previous days and thus set the trend for Page 3
the remainder of the expedition. From the Youth Hostel the walk started along a rough vehicle track following the shore of Loch Lomond, this began fairly flat but turned into a gradual uphill climb. At approximately 3 miles the way splits into two, the high road and the low road. We managed to miss the low road turning (possibly on purpose), and headed up the undulating track for the next few miles. The track then descended and joined the low road which finally went into a single rough track following the shore line of Loch Lomond. For the next mile the going was very tricky with numerous natural steps following muddy peaks and troughs which would only allow single file movement. After what seemed like hours we emerged by a waterfall that was situated near to the Inversnaid hotel. We stopped here for lunch, oblivious to the pouring rain and whilst eating rolls prepared by Jacqui and Rosemary we watched the local ferry dropping off at the hotel. At 1230hrs, we continued for the last 6.5 miles of the days walk. At approximately the 400m point, the route decayed into the rocky, muddy single track that we had grown to love during the last mile or so. As the day went on this became quite an arduous slog and as we passed the sign indicating Rob Roy's cave we all understood why he had managed to hide out in such a remote location. Finally, the track gave way to more friendly terrain and although it was uphill the route was more than welcome. For the last 1.5 miles the going was good and finally brought us to our overnight stop, Beinglas Farm. The campsite was quiet boggy but as our support team had managed to get on site early we had the best pitches. Beinglas Farm is a decent campsite with all facilities including a washing, cooking and drying area, but more importantly there is a bar and restaurant. This serves good food at respectable prices which was enjoyed by all. Wednesday 20 May Another early start began when everyone decided to rise at 0615hrs, for the next 11.5 mile leg from Inveraran to Tyndrum. After completing the morning wash and breaking camp, we decided to cook our breakfast in the car park to avoid transporting all of our equipment to the boggy campsite. We left camp at 0840hrs (another earlier start), and headed out. As we started, the rain began and it was on and off all day. The first 4 miles of the route proceeded along a wide Page 4
undulating track. This then crossed under a road where we had to duck down and almost crawl. The track continued for a further 2.5 miles but turned very rocky, this led into a 2.5 mile stretch of woodland which was very steep. As Rich, Mike and Dave had pulled ahead of the rest of us we decided to stop for lunch, however, as we rounded a bend we heard Rich's booming voice coming out of the woods, they had already stopped and the coffee was on the stove. After lunch we continued on and as we exited the woodland we had to cross a busy road near to Kirkton Farm, this looked like something out of wacky races. The final few miles of the day proceeded along flat open countryside before leading into a final woodland stretch and finishing at 1430hrs at By The Way Campsite in Tyndrum. On arrival Rosemary and Jacqui had managed to arrange for 2 cabins instead of pitching the tents, 4 members in one, 5 in the other. This was very welcome as the tent area was very boggy. We sorted all equipment out and stored our wet clothing in the drying room. After showering and changing we headed for the Real Food Cafe, this serves excellent fish and chips, magnificent curry sauce and great homemade puddings. When dinner was complete we headed to the Tyndrum Hotel, here we had a few beers and contemplated the fact that we had crossed the halfway point. Finally we returned back to the campsite where we consumed a few more beverages and turned in at 2300hrs. If only I could have slept that night, was it anticipation for the next day's walk? No, it was George, Jacqui and Trish snoring like the frogs chorus, of course I don't snore!! Thursday 21 May It was decided the previous night that we would all have a lie in until 0800hrs, this was not to be the case for our cabin, George, Jacqui, Trish and myself could not sleep in after 0700hrs, so at this time we showered, sorted out the kit and had a brew. When everyone else arose, we started cooking breakfast and preparing the rolls for lunch, needless to say we took over the whole cooking area. At 0930hrs, we left Tyndrum and headed for our first free campsite past the Inveroran Hotel, just past the Bridge Of Orchy, a total of 9.5 miles. The route was good but as Daniel had hurt his Achilles tendon it was slower going, again the rain was with us. The route followed the line of the train track all of the way to the Bridge Of Orchy, winding through the mountains on a gentle upward slope. Due to our slow pace Dave, Rich and Mike pulled ahead of us. When we arrived at the woodland area close to the Page 5
Bridge, at the Bridge Of Orchy, the lead team had already found a lunch spot and again the coffee was brewing. Once lunch had been consumed, the last 2.5 miles was uphill through the woodland and down into the valley past the Inveroran Hotel to the campsite by the river Orchy. On arrival at 1430hrs, the main tents had been erected but the support team had gone searching for much needed supplies (food and beer). Whilst waiting for the support team Dave and I set up a cooking area next to the bridge wall. On arrival of the support team the final tent was erected and equipment sorted. George and I both stripped off and washed in the river before the downpour started when we dived for cover into the tents where I promptly fell asleep. After awaking evening meal was prepared, a lovely boil in the bag main meal and pudding. After washing up we headed to the Inveroran Hotel where much needed refreshments were supplied. We headed back to camp at about 2130rs and on arrival we were met with a surprising sight as five Stags ran across the road and crawled under a fence to graze near the campsite. One came within five feet as I fed it with part of a deer's staple diet, donuts! After this exciting visit by the local wildlife we all retired for the night. Friday 22 May On the morning of day six, I awoke at 0600hrs to the sound of the babbling stream just feet from the tent realising that I needed the toilet and that the noise of the stream didn't help. George was also awake so we put on water for breakfast and washed in the chilly water of the Orchy. Once we had all been fed and watered, we packed up the equipment and headed off at 0830hrs towards Kingshouse Hotel 10 miles away and our second free campsite. Billy Wiz and his friend in the Ron Hill tracksters (Mike and Rich) shot off at a fast pace and were not seen again until lunch. The route was fairly easy going along a wide track with a steady incline. Once we left the woodland area that follows the loch and headed across Rannock Moor, Page 6
Trish seemed to in her element as she headed off into the distance on her own and the rest of the snail group struggled to keep up. Then the rain started, this was on and off until we stopped for lunch overlooking Rannock Moor with Kingshouse Hotel in sight approximately 2.5 miles away. After leaving our picnic area we headed down towards Kingshouse Hotel passing by the White Corries Ski Centre (yes, there was still snow on the mountains) and arrived at the campsite at 1230hrs. On arrival we all sorted out the equipment. Trish and I pitched our tent the other side of the bridge as the ground was boggy near to the main tent. Once everything was sorted I created a rock fridge in the stream for the Stella, cider and wine. During the afternoon the sun came out and it was pleasantly warm. As we were sitting in chairs having a few beers we didn't notice how hot it became and ended up with sunburned heads. Whilst relaxing a group of deer crossed the river and were grazing about 10 meters away, another great sight during the walk. At about 1730hrs, we had dinner then went to the hotel for some more refreshments. After this it was off to bed for an early night. Saturday 23 May Today was to be the shortest leg of our journey, a mere 8.5 miles from Kingshouse Hotel to Kinlochleven, however the dreaded Devils Staircase was on route. Again we arose with the dawn chorus and the babbling of the stream. The morning started with a brisk wash in the river for those brave enough, followed by breakfast and the collection of packed lunches provided by the support team. With equipment packed we headed toward the Devils Staircase. The lead group started off with extreme urgency, it appeared as if they were on a cider mission. The snail group headed off along the route which follows the Old Glen Coe road, this runs parallel and was fairly good going with a marginal incline for the 3 miles to Altnafeadh. We then hit the Devils Staircase, which is a long steep haul named by soldiers involved in the road building programme of General Wade. On pay day they would hike to Kingshouse Hotel get drunk and stumble back to Kinlochleven some of whom didn't make it back and it was said "the Devil often claimed his own". Once at the top of the Devils Staircase you get a great view of the Glen Coe and part of Rannock Moor. After reaching the peak of Devils staircase the going is good with a fairly flat route which then descends through the woodland towards Kinlochleven. The snail group decided to partake of lunch during the Page 7
decent and stopped near to a small reservoir only to be attacked by swarms of midges. Once lunch was over we continued the decent passing the pipes from the dam to the generating station below where it was hard not to notice the water spewing from leaks. On rounding the last bend in the wooded area we caught site of Dave in the distance. The final part of the walk leads through the lower part of Kinlochleven traversing a wood bordering a housing estate. On reaching the campsite, situated in the grounds of the MacDonald Hotel we found Rich and Mike already in the bar. The support team had set up the campsite so we sorted out the equipment and headed for a much needed shower. Once showered and changed Daniel headed for the bar, Trish, Jacqui, George and myself headed into town to extract funds from the hole in the wall, I was very surprised to find it issuing out what appeared Monopoly money. After a bout of shopping we headed back to the hotel and into the restaurant. A good meal and a few beverages were had by all, along with a few games of pool and a meeting with an American couple who were also walking the route, the husband was brave enough to be doing it in a kilt. That evening we retired to the tents looking forward to the final day and the completion of the West Highland Way. Sunday 24 May As this was the final day of the journey, from Kinlochleven to Fort William a distance of 14.5 miles, we decided that we would all have a tradition Scottish breakfast at the hotel. After rising, showering and packing we headed to the restaurant for breakfast. On arriving we found the door locked so we waited, it was supposed to be open at 0800hrs, by 0820hrs it was still closed but using infiltration techniques we discovered that entry was only possible through the main entrance for breakfast. Once we had finished our hearty meal it was time to put on our kit and head for the hills, the first part of the route did indeed head up, from the town, through the woodland on a sharp incline for nearly 2 miles. On leaving the wood line the route turned Page 8
into a fairly wide track which could accommodate 4x4 vehicles. The route was fairly pleasant for about 4 miles, walking with high ground on either side passing old ruined dwellings. It was just at this point where a group of soldiers from the Royal Engineers based in Omagh, Northern Ireland stopped us as they had seen the Help For Heroes banner on Trish's pack. Once they discovered that we were walking the whole of the West Highland Way for our chosen charity they proceeded to donate whatever funds they were carrying and insisted on taking photos of the group. The route continued through a forestry area that had been cleared, this is where we stopped for lunch and where the rain got heavier. After lunch we started out on the last 6 miles of the route, this ran through a few miles of dense forestry area along a single path track that was very boggy. This was where Daniel was in the most pain from his Achilles tendon problem, but he pushed through the pain barrier as he was determined to complete the course. On leaving the forestry area and heading along the track that parallels Glen Nevis the full view of Ben Nevis would have been available however, the top was covered in low cloud. The parallel track gradually descended to the road running through Glen Nevis, it exited onto the footpath near the Ben Nevis Visitors Centre. As the other members of the team had gone ahead we telephoned them to say we were 1.5 miles from the finish, that was probably the longest 1.5 miles of my life as it never seemed to end. Finally with the end in sight the rest of the team leapt from undergrowth with bottles of champagne to celebrate the end of another arduous adventure. That evening we stayed at the Glen Nevis camp site and went into Fort William for a celebratory meal at local Chinese restaurant. The following day was the return journey and at 0740hrs, we boarded the train from Fort William to Milngavie where we collected the cars and headed home. As of today the total funds raised by the team exceeds 1500. Page 9