ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams Simple Pleasures In Ohio s Amish Country Ohio hosts the world s largest Amish population, and Holmes County lies at the heart of it a picture postcard sprung to life. It s a place where country roads amble through rolling farmland, past quaint quilt shops, antique stores, and enough Amish bakeries and cheese stands to feed you, body and soul. But beyond the farms and buggies, you ll find a lush, hilly heartland hemmed in by terrific camping, hiking and fishing opportunities all easily accessible in your RV. At first, watching a horse-drawn buggy from the window of your motorhome feels a little incongruous a bizarre meeting of two very different worlds. There you sit in climate-controlled comfort surrounded by modern conveniences. And there goes the Amish buggy, an iconic symbol of people who ve turned their back on much of the modern world in favor of a simpler, less complicated life. After all, around here it s said that a traffic jam consists of two buggies and a hay wagon. But waiting on a state highway for that sleek little buggy to turn down a country lane has its advantages. It invites you to slow down and consider the spectacle that surrounds you soft, rolling hills, densely wooded valleys, rustic roads that sprint off in random directions, simple, tidy farmsteads and the muscled draft horses that are still used to cleave the earth each spring. A trip to east central Ohio home to some 40,000 Amish residents is a trip back in time, to be sure. It s an education in the spiritual journey of religious refugees... a chance to reflect on work that is still done by hand. Here, you ll find a family-friendly setting where the seasons of farm life dictate the daily rhythms. But it is also much more. For folded into this Appalacian plateau is a landscape as rich and intriguing as the Amish culture that settled here, with dramatic hills, covered bridges, forested horizons, and sparkling lakes. Little wonder that every major road in Holmes County has been designated a scenic byway. Within an easy drive of Millersburg and Berlin the cultural and commercial centers of Ohio s eastern Amish country RVers will find state parks, state forests and a generous array of (left to right) Amish boys favor the plain, simplified clothing valued within their faith. In Amish Country, work and worship are a way of life. If you see a gathering of black buggies in a farmyard on Sunday morning, chances are there is a homespun worship service going on inside. private campgrounds with plenty of amenities. In fact, for a place so widely known for residents who shun modern conveniences, Holmes County is surprisingly inviting, even to the largest motorcoach. Family Fun at the Farm Much of Ohio s tourism literature promotes the state as a prime family destination, and a trek into Amish Country supports the claim. From the wholesome country setting to miles of hiking/biking trails and clean family campgrounds, there is plenty to appeal to everyone, from avid antique hunters to road-weary parents looking for a place to let the kids burn off a little steam while having some fun along the way. So while you re in quintessential farm country, consider experiencing a hands-on day at the farm. If you approach Holmes County from the west, it s worth it to schedule a stop at Malabar Farm State Park, Ohio s only state park that is actually a 900-acre working farm. Located west of Loudonville off Ohio Highway 95, the park is the legacy of Louis Bromfield, a Pulitzer Prize-winning author, agriculturalist and visionary conservationist. Using pioneering conservation techniques, Bromfield restored the farm and built a 32-room country home, where family and friends could share the pleasures of farm life. And lots of celebrity friends stopped by, 24 The two photos above are courtesy of the Ohio Department of Travel and Tourism.
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including Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall, who were said to have honeymooned here. In 1976, the site became one of Ohio s state parks, and continues today as an educational center with a full slate of informational programs, hands-on events ranging from evening owl walks along 12 miles of hiking trails to a maple syrup festival, barn dances and beekeeping workshops. And RV parking is no problem. Best of all, much of the farm experience is free a welcome break for cost-conscious families. On a recent visit with a 7-yearold in tow, we were lucky enough to arrive late in the afternoon: chow time at the farm. Peggy Eilenfeld, a conservation aide who has worked at the park for 25 years, began recruiting volunteers that afternoon to help feed a calf, sheep, goats, chickens and an incubator full of turkey hatchlings. Our young traveler couldn t have been more thrilled to help. Summer, not surprisingly, is the farm s busiest season. Horsedrawn wagon tours are offered May through October for a nominal fee. You can also snag bluegill and catfish from on-site ponds. During warm weather, the farm sells fresh seasonal produce and maple syrup at the popular Malabar Farm Market located on nearby Pleasant Valley Road. The spring-cooled produce stand sits in the shadow of the Malabar Farm Restaurant, a restored stagecoach inn built in 1820. Today, the restaurant offers home-cooked meals Tuesday through Sunday and features many products straight off the farm. The setting is cozy and fun check out photos of the many celebrities who ve eaten there 26 John and Bonnie Curry, of Riley, W. Va., make the trek to Ohio s Amish Country a couple times of year to watch field work that is still done with draft horses. before you prices are reasonable and the food is simple and filling. Be warned, however: Cooking throughout Amish County tends to be hearty and heavy, and often served family style. Plan on leaving the low-carb diet at home, or grab plenty of fresh foods from the local produce stands and have it your way. In the summer, Malabar Farm even sells fresh herbs. While you re checking out the farm scene, consider catching one of the weekly farmers auctions held throughout Amish country. You ll find animals and produce, flea markets, baked goods and an authentic taste of daily life. You can attend an auction in Sugarcreek on Monday and Friday, in Farmerstown on Tuesday, at Mt. Hope on Wednesday and Kidron on Thursday. The Heart of Amish Country While much of Holmes County is cut from pastoral farmland, you are always a short drive away from a more urban encounter. Well, maybe the word urban is stretching it. But the intriguing little communities that ring Holmes County like an add-a-pearl necklace are never far away, and each offers its own distinctive personality and attractions. There is no border marking the official beginning of Amish Country, yet you ll start to find plenty of visual clues: yellow road signs that warn drivers to watch for buggies; roadside farmstands; random bakeries; impossibly tidy farmsteads with nary a car or tractor in sight. The tell-tale signs of the Amish begin to appear around Loudonville, Tips on Visiting Amish Country When driving, be aware of slow-moving buggies, particularly at night. Keep headlights on a low beam and avoid using your horn, as it can startle the horses. Many backcountry roads have no shoulder. When passing a buggy, leave plenty of room. Amish drivers may have low or blocked visibility. Never pass a buggy at the top of a hill. Buggies may back up a few feet when stopped; leave a little distance. Observe basic courtesies. Amish residents are neither actors nor quaint zoo creatures. Respect privacy. Don t knock on farmhouse doors looking for a tour, but do feel free to visit with farmers and merchants at roadside stands. Avoid bothering Amish residents unless they seem open to your company. Chatting with Amish storekeepers and artisans is usually a good way to learn more about the community. Just treat those you meet as you would wish to be approached. Do not disturb horses that may be tied to rails or hitching posts. Many Amish consider posing for photographs to be prideful and do not encourage you to take their pictures. But others are not bothered by photos of their buggies or farms. Be aware of personal comfort levels. When pursuing a photo, use a telephoto lens and maintain a respectful distance. In many Amish communities, almost all businesses and restaurants shut down on Sundays. Plan accordingly, or use Sunday as a travel day. To learn more, consider signing up for an Amish Cultural Tour, which often include a family-style meal in an Amish home. Good Eats, Great Sites Amish & Mennonite Heritage Center, Berlin Amish Wedding Feast dinner theater, Amish Country Inn, Berlin Boyd & Wurthmann Restaurant, Berlin Des Dutch Essenhaus, Shreve Der Dutchman Restaurant, Walnut Creek Malabar Farm Restaurant, Perrysville Quilts, patterns and 5,000 bolts of calico beckon wouldbe quilters to Miller s Dry Goods, Millersburg Guggisberg Cheese Factory, Millersburg Kauffman s Country Bakery, Berlin. Over 20 varieties of homemade breads, strudel, pastries, cakes and cookies. Mohican Memorial State Forest for hiking
(left to right) Be sure to be watch out for horse-drawn buggies on highways and country lanes. Malabar Farm State Park offers a hands-on education into daily farm life. Mohican State Park boasts 120 family-friendly campsites, complete with electricity and picnic tables. so follow Ohio Route 39/60 east toward Millersburg, noted as a bustling center for Amish crafts. Quaint shops and inviting storefront windows line the downtown streets with its turn-of-the-century architecture perfect for a leisurely stroll or rabid bargain hunting. Millersburg is also the county seat, a bit bigger and busier than other communities out here. But don t be surprised to find hitching posts outside the county courthouse. You are in Amish Country, after all. From the bakeries to restaurant menus, the town names and the architecture, area Amish and Mennonite families have brought an old-world feel to the region. You may overhear people chatting in German, find wienerschnitzel and Swiss fondue on menus, and visit a cheese factory that looks like an alpine chalet reminders of the region s solid European roots. In America, Amish people are considered to be descendents of European Anabaptists believers. Anabaptist Christians challenged the reforms espoused by Martin Luther during the Protestant Reformation. The Amish generally believe the Bible teaches a life of simplicity and supports the separation of church and the outside world. As a result, they reject many modern technologies and conveniences. Seeking religious freedom, Amish people began immigrating from Germany and Switzerland to America around 1730. Today, about 80 percent of the nation s Amish followers live in Pennsylvannia, Ohio and Indiana. In Holmes County, public fascination with the Amish their crafts, food and unique culture has spawned a thriving tourism industry. It s an accepted fact of life, so don t worry. Just follow basic rules of courtesy and don t act like papparazzi. There s even an Amish & Mennonite Heritage Center, in Berlin, to help with questions and fill in the historic gaps. You ll find the heaviest traffic and longest waits in summer months. But off-season has its own charms watching spring plantings and fall color, for example. Consider the strategy of John and Bonnie Curry, of Ripley, W. Va. The Currys are huge fans of Ohio s Amish Country, typically making the two and a half hour drive to Holmes County from their West Virginia home a couple of times a year. But never during peak season. We usually try to come up early and then later in the fall, explained John Curry, as he readied his 30-foot Jayco Qwest motorhome for the trip home on a chilly spring day. On this trip, the Currys stayed at Scenic Hills RV Park, a tidy, no-frills park located about a mile east of Berlin. They appreciate the sweeping view of surrounding hills, the close proximity to Berlin, full hookups and pull-throughs and generous elbow room for larger coaches, with no tree limbs to worry about. And while the region s rib-sticking cooking, shopping and little country stores are appealing, there s really one thing here in Amish Country Don t Forget A cooler to provide extra storage for fruits, vegetables and cheeses from roadside stands and country markets. Bikes, for the Rails-to-Trails biking. Comfortable walking shoes, thick socks. If you re on the Ohio Turnpike, grab a map detailing concessions, restaurants and shops offered at each service plaza. It s a time saver. that always brings them back. It s the horses, Bonnie Curry explained with a smile. Those big teams. We love to go out and see what the farmers are doing planting in the spring, harvesting in the fall. Our dads and grandpas worked with teams and workhorses, John Where to Stay Amish Country Campsites, Winesburg, (330) 359-5226 Arrow Point Campground, Loudonville (419) 994-5374 Butler/Mohican KOA, Butler (800) 562-8719 Camp Toodik Family Campgrounds, Loudonville (877) 886-7866 Lake Wapusun, Shreve, (800) 414-3938 Mohican Reservation Campgrounds, Loudonville (800) 766-CAMP Mohican State Park, Loudonville (419) 994-4290 Rainbow Springs Campground, Loudonville (419) 994-5095 River Run Family Campground, Loudonville (419) 994-5247 Scenic Hills RV Park, Millersburg (330) 893-3607 Smith s Pleasant Valley Campground & Cabins, Mohican River, (800) 376-4847 Whispering Hills RV Park, Shreve (800) 992-2435 Route 66 Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network Dealers: All American Coach Co. 5080 Alexis Rd. Sylvania, OH 43560 (419) 885-4601 All Seasons RV 9043 State. Rte. 14 Shreve, OH 44241 (330) 564-0222 Colerain RV 3491 Struble Rd. Cincinnati, OH 45251 (513) 923-3600 Stoney s RV 11510 East Pike Cambridge, OH 43725 740-439-7285 added. We have all these family pictures at home of workhorses. For us, this is a wonderful place to take pictures. We find that Amish people usually don t mind you taking pictures of their buggies, horses or farms. Other tips? The Currys try to use Sunday as a travel day, since so 28
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Photo courtesy of the Ohio State Parks System. A covered bridge beckons visitors at Mohican State Park. many Amish-run businesses will be closed on that day. They also try to take advantage of the abundance of roadside stands to stock up on farm-fresh eggs and produce for your week s meals. And whatever you do, make it a point to visit a cheese factory, at least once. Just be mindful of the Amish in traffic. It s really no big deal to share the road with the buggies, John said. I mean, this is Amish Country. You know they re there. We don t mind getting behind them. From Berlin, continue your driving tour either by heading north on Ohio 241 toward Mt. Hope, swinging east on County Road 160 to Winesburg, then south to Walnut Creek or follow Ohio 39 east through Walnut Creek to Sugarcreek, then swing south to pick up a southern loop that includes Farmerstown and Charm. The RV Scene There is no shortage of campgrounds in Amish Country. Chances are, if you have a whim or preference, there s a campground to fit the bill. Camp Toodik, located on a hilltop just north of Ohio 60/39, offers a wooded setting, heated swimming pool, softball field, wagon rides and canoes/kayaks. It s also open year-round. Interested in riverside camping? Check out Smith s Pleasant Valley Campground, along the scenic Mohican River. It s a campground that specifically promotes itself as Big Rig Friendly. Or you might consider Whispering Hlls RV Park, a massive 300-site campground in an idyllic country setting. There s plenty of room for kids to romp, with an Olympic-size pool, 8-acre fishing lake, and an on-site restaurant where you can find Ruth s Famous Apple Dumplings. How about an on-site music festival? Pedal boats? From no-frills campgrounds to verdant state parks, canoe liveries to country scenery with spectacular sunset views, it s all here. Whether you actively pursue an interest in Amish culture consider taking in the Amish Wedding Feast dinner theater or sign up for an Amish Backcountry tour or ignore it in favor of the hiking, fishing, and natural world, this is a destination that knows how to accommodate visitors. RVers will definitely want to swing south of Malabar State Park, pick up Ohio Route 97 and check out Mohican State Park. and the adjacent Mohican Memorial State Forest, 5,000 wooded acres sliced by the Clear Fork-Mohican River. If you want to stay the night, plan on making a reservation in advance, especially during popular summer months. Mohican State Park is a real find clean, attractive and chockfull of RV-friendly campsites. The park boasts a 120-site family campground, complete with electricity, fire rings and picnic tables. The main campground offers an olympic-size pool, showers, flush toilets, dump station and camp commissary. Full hookup campsites run about $37 a night from April through October. The park is also popular with hikers, with over 13 miles of trails that lead past waterfalls, lakeshore, a scenic wooden bridge, and 300- foot-deep Clearfork Gorge, worth a trip to the scenic turnout. An 8.5-mile bike trail also passes through nearby Mohican State Forest, which creates expansive hiking opportunities. Visitors are welcome to explore 22 miles of hiking trails and logging roads that wind through the Mohican Memorial State Forest from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m.. But several key attractions can be reached in your car or RV; just follow the park road. Nearby, the Mohican River is known for small-mouth bass fishing, while skilled anglers can also find large-mouth bass, carp, crappie, perch and bluegill at Pleasant Hill Reservoir. From Millersburg to Berlin, Walnut Creek to Winesburg, the region invites exploration and slow discovery. In Walnut Creek, you may stumble across the area s largest flea market or tour a one-room Amish schoolhouse. In Mt. Hope, you may find yourself in a hardware store offering only nonelectric appliances and kitchenware. In Berlin, you might choose to take a buggy ride at Schrock s Amish Farm. Along the way, stop to pick up a hand-woven basket and fill it with homemade jellies. It s all part of the Holmes County experience. Planning an extended visit? Vacation ideas for long-term visits are offered in Amish Lanes & City Lights, a circle tour guide to the region. For a free copy, contact the Holmes County Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau at (330) 674-3975. For more information also check out www.visitamishcountry.com. [ 30 (left to right) The Holmes County Courthouse still offers hitching posts for horses and buggies. Over 13 miles of trails attract hikers to Mohican State Park, where you can pause for a spectacular view of the Clearfoot Gorge.