Hi TAC August 2013
The Trip Files August 2013 The traditional Slush Summit will be late October. Time to get booked on the snowcraft courses and then practice, practice, practice. The trip is graded hard due to the skills requirements ie snowcraft and sufficient subsequent experience and being confident using those snowcraft skills. With the Tongariro Crossing now open (in particular Mangatepopo Rd to save a long walk), it s time to head over for a Central Plateau wander including Tongariro and Ngauruhoe. Beginning of December for this one. It s a great photo op trip on a clear day. If you re worried about the tourist ant trail on the crossing, don t this trip escapes the main track so you ll be overlooking the ant trail and not part of it. It is a full day trip leaving New Plymouth around 3am, and 8 or 9hrs on track with plenty of photo stops. Grade medium. The monthly picture challenge. Each month I will publish one photo in this column, and if you think you can identify what it is/where it was taken then email me your answer. Your prize is your name here, showing how clever you are. When I run out of photos, the winner will be the one who got the most right. No prizes, just the glory. The only clue is that all the photos are taken in Egmont National Park. Last months photo was Wilkies Pools as correctly identified by Joelle Xavier, Colin Neighbours and Shona Lee. Not sure if this one is too easy or not, as you all will have seen this spot...i ve probably said too much! Lastly, a bit of housekeeping. There are now dedicated email addresses for all TAC committee and key roles, so please take note of my new email address if contacting me about trips. Bryan Krijger Trip Coordinator (06) 751 1449 (027) 2070880 trips.tac@outlook.com 2 Hi TAC
TRIPS AT A GLANCE 2013... Date Trip Grade July Syme Hut Big & Hard October Slush Summit Medium December Tongariro / Ngauruhoe Medium Grading of trips. I have been asked about grading of trips, and that members maybe aren t sure whether they are up to a particular trip. Grading is a tricky and subjective thing, but what I have done is broken trips into three categories as follows:- Social Shorter, easier walks 3-6hrs. Average fitness, family friendly, as fast as the slowest. Eg you find walks like the Kokowai or Jacobs Ladder Circuit enjoyable and easy. Medium & Challenging Long, full day trips, but not especially hard. Good level of fitness. Eg able to summit and return in under 5hr30 (summer conditions) is a good benchmark; although stamina for a full day is the overriding thing here ie you can finish the day with a spring in your step. Big & Hard Multi day or particular experience required (such as good winter climbing skills). High level of fitness and strength. Eg able to carry a heavy pack (15kg+) for 6hrs or more and feel good the next day to do it all again. These are fairly broad grades, and every trip is a bit different, so if in doubt call me to discuss. A reminder from the treasurer.. There seems to be a fair amount of confusion for new members when completing the application form and not reading the bit Payment due on application. It seems quite clear to me but is causing me a lot of extra work chasing up payment. New members are only accepted into the club with payment on application. No money no membership! Colin 3 Hi TAC
Trips & Social July 14 Bastille Day party at Lodge Well, the 14 th July was exciting to say the least even with the flags and costume staying in the bag I have attached a few photos taken by Alec who was the only member who had come up for the movie night and the pot luck. He managed to convince Mike, Ashley and Kester who had come for a climb to stay over on Saturday ; and on the 14 th, we had 2 very poorly equipped experienced climbers (one in shorts, no crampons, spare gear, sleeping bag, food etc ) and a young boy who arrived at the hut at lunchtime for a day walk and couldn t get back down when the weather packed up. The next morning (Monday), Joep from Volcanic View came to the rescue and left at 5.30am to bring 2 pairs of crampons, ice axe etc He couldn t carry on past the top of the Puffer, ending up waist deep in snow. He then started directly up but was too tired to carry on. Alec went down to meet him and get the gear. Alec was great. He kept young Liam roped in on the way down yesterday and made sure the little man didn t go flying downhill by lowering him down rope length after rope length using a snow stake as anchor. The section from the top of the puffer to the translator had completely filled up and was just one big slope. The safest and easiest way was to go over the edge in a direct route from the lodge to the top of the Puffer. The rest was ok at that stage although crampons were definitely needed for 2/3 of the way. This may have changed since then as it started snowing heavily at NEVC when we left the carpark and the wind was blowing a fair bit. Joëlle Xavier 4 Hi TAC
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Don Mouse Carley The club has been advised that we will receive a bequest of $2000 from the Estate of the late Don Carley, who passed away in Hamilton in May of this year. Derek Quickfall very kindly contacted past member Dick Williams who now lives in Auckland, and was a very good mate of Don Carley. Attached is a tribute to the late Don Carley by Richard Williams. Richard (Dick) was an active member of TAC in the early 1950 s and a great mate of Don Carley. Dick is a younger brother of Darcy Williams, (now deceased) who was a life member of TAC and who also knew Mouse Carley well. A Wake was held for Don in Thames following his funeral. Present day members may may not be aware that Dick was a leader of a party of nurses who took part in the ill-fated climb 60 years ago on the 26th July 1953 when six nurses lost their lives. The late David Rawson refers to this in his book Search in which he describes how Dick got in the path of a roped party of four above him who had slipped 200 metres and by digging in, managed to stop their slide, a remarkable feat that probably saved their lives. Derek Quickfall Don Carley was one of the most respected members of the TAC during the 1950 s. He always participated in TAC events and climbs with members over this period. He was always cheerful, always had a smile, terrific sense of humour, and carried his share of stores and supplies up to Tahurangi Hut. Members often asked if Don, "Mouse" was going to be on a climb somewhere on the mountain for they would like to be there too. During these days on the mountain there was a friendship with Darcy Williams, Curly Burton, Fraser McKenzie, Terry McKeon, Ken Murray and myself and others and we would roam all over the mountain often away from regular tracks and explore gullies, ridges, cliffs, Humphreys Castle, the Lizard and other places. We would rest from time to time, sit in the sun or away from the wind and chat over our day's enjoyment and sharing our food and drink. We soaked up the grandeur of the special scenery of Mt Egmont and of the distant Taranaki. Don was always a wonderful companion and appreciated practical jokes. He never complained or criticised anyone or anyone of the TAC. The 1950's were not long after the Second World War and the TAC was rebuilding its membership and there was not much money around. Transport up the mountain was scarce and we shared vehicles. Climbing equipment was generally inferior and expensive however this did not deter us from enjoying the friendship 6 Hi TAC
of TAC members. The Tahurangi Hut was very basic in its facilities but we enjoyed our friendships after our climbs. We met occasionally with Stratford Mountain club and Mt Egmont Alpine Club members from time to time and Don was also highly respected by them too. So, our friendships were very special including that of Don Carley. Don Carley was one of my most respected persons in the TAC and I know that others, Tom Dean Jack Bromley, Dave Rawson, Maggie Brown, Brian Scanlan, Eve Throssell (in particular), Terry McKeon, Darcy Williams, Warren Williams, Geoff Williams, Bill Brown and a host of others gone or still alive will never forget the wonderful personality of Don Carley. It was said, that Mrs Carley was a little bit worried about her Don participating in some of the TAC parties. Little did she know!! I am sure Don will rest in peace and know that his bequest will be well placed in the TAC. I hope that the TAC will provide a plaque or some other item in his memory. Don Carley was a great person. Richard (Dick) Williams This article has been reproduced from the July 2001 HiTAC ed. A DAY ON THE MOUNTAIN, By Torn (Gaskell) Dean, Don (Mouse) Carley and I left Tahurangi Hut Sunday A.M. Heading for the Summit in Heavy cloud and mist. As we climbed higher, the mists thinned, and from Drinking Rock we were in Blue Sky and looking down over a sea of Cloud. The day was perfect, sunny and no wind. We left the Summit, and crossed the Crater to Climb Shark's Tooth. A terrible smell on top turned out to be a large soft drink bottle full of dead blowflies. Did they have one drink too many? We had a great glissade down Crater Valley, crossed high up over the Lizard, and continued down Snow Valley, Jumping over many crevasses. (Note this was early January!) Back at Tahurangi Hut by 2pm we decided to climb Tahurangi Bluff, and with one 60ft rope, descended to the R.M.T and around Blundell s Track to what we estimated was the highest face of the Bluffs. A short foray convinced us that clinker nailed, leather Boots were not appropriate, so led off, barefooted, rope around waist. Good protection for the lead man. (No hardware of course) At around 50ft I found a good place to belay Don; who duly arrived to join me suddenly, the thought of going back down was not an issue, (How?) Three hours later we arrived on top of the Bluff walked in bare feet over Tussock, Scoria etc. down and around Blundell s track to our packs and Boots (Oww) The trip Home to New Plymouth was by pushbike, along with other TAC Members without transport, four people on two bikes, with packs. Arrived Home 10pm. This was my 17 th Ascent, and the Date? 9th January 1949. From the trip book of Tom (Gaskell) Dean. 7 Hi TAC
I remember Mouse buying his first car a 1930 something Baby Austin 7. Very proud of it he was, and the Envy of us poor push-bikers. Riding home from North Egmont one Sunday, we came across Mouse on the road down to Rahiri, his usual happy smile looking a bit sheepish. where s your car? we asked. He pointed into the bush on the sharp corner, In there It was In there all right, buried in the bush on its side. The corner had got the better of the brakes and tyres. Loose gravel hadn t helped either! With a bit of a struggle, we managed to right the Baby 7 and drag it back onto the road. Mouse hopped in, started up, and with his happy smile back, called Thanks, and away he went as if nothing had happened. From the memory of Tom Dean 8 Hi TAC New Members The Clubs extends a warm welcome to our new members, and we look forward to seeing you on the slopes. New members approved as follows: Andrew Parsottam Kaye, John & Tyler Coe Sorrell Hoskin Mark Hayes Winter Instruction 2013 Grant Upson will be heading up the instruction again this year. He may be asking some of you experienced members for some help, so be ready! Course dates are: Snowcraft 1 Snowcraft 2 September 14-15 August 24-25 September 21-22 October 19-20 We ll have updated information on our website and also on our Facebook page. We ll also have a new online registration process this year that we ll let people know about through the website and Facebook. It will mean people can register and pay online. New Plymouth Inglewood New Plymouth Auckland
Club Nights.. PLEASE NOTE Club nights start at 7-30 First Thursday of each month, 7-30pm @ Foundation for the Blind rooms, 131 Vivian St, New Plymouth August 1st Ludovic and Andrea Treking, Mountaineering in the Pyrenees and Everest area For August, Ludovic and Andrea a local based couple from Europe who will be giving us talk on their adventures in the Pyrenees and the Everest area. Ludovic and Andrea have spent a lot of time in the Pyrenees, their best mountain range near where they were living in France at the time. The two of them headed to the Himalaya for 30 days of tramping in Everest area. From West to East, entry in high Khumbu via glacier pass in Rolwaling, exit in Makalu area. So come along, see their awesome photos and hear their inspiring stories. 9 Hi TAC
September 5th Shelley Hersey One of New Zealand's top female climbers - a must see Shelley has been a rock climber and mountaineer for the past 15 years. In that time she has steadily improved her skills and decision-making ability over a broad range of climbing terrain. And in the past five years, Shelley has decided to take her climbing to the highest level she can achieve. In 2007, she was part of an expedition to the Indian Himalaya, and discovered that she performed particularly well at altitude, especially when compared to her more experienced team mates. Since then, Shelley has made strong inroads towards her goal of becoming one of this country s top female alpine climbers. Since the Himalayan expedition she has led a number of New Zealand alpine grade 5 climbs as well as putting up new routes, both alpine and rock. Shelley has led WI 4, and rock to grade 24 during trips to Moonarie, Arapiles and Thailand. Shelley will be giving up her time, flying up from Dunedin to deliver her talk on women in climbing and show the video of their 'Backyard and Beyond' expedition. 10 Hi TAC
NEW MEMBERS & SOCIAL GATHERINGS We welcome you to the TAC. Grant Upson is keen to help you integrate easily into club activities so give him a call if you have any questions. Joelle Xavier is our social co-ordinator and is open to any suggestions for a good get together. TAHURANGI LODGE This is the TAC s premier Lodge on Mt Egmont / Taranaki. It sleeps 24, has electric heating and cooking, all cutlery, pots and pans, etc. Just like home. To get an ekey you need to complete the application form by downloading from our website. Overnight fees are $5 for TAC members (under 18 years $2.50) and $20 for non-members (under 18 years $10). Members can buy an annual lodge pass for $40 (under 18 years $20) which allows them unlimited sleeps until the next AGM. Anyone who stays at Tahurangi Lodge must write in the overnight book upstairs by the fridge; 1. Their surname and initials. 2. Say TAC or non-member. 3. If under 18 please state. Bookings by non-members or members taking a group of 5+ people should be made with the Lodge Booking Officer The lodge subcommittee looks after all maintenance. Contact Robin Drake if you want to help, have ideas for improvements, or have found something wrong. SUBSCRIPTIONS Annual subscriptions are set at the Annual General Meeting. Subscriptions for 2013: FAMILY $60, ORDINARY (single) $40, STUDENT (under 18), $30. The subscription halves for those joining after 01 September. For more info contact the Treasurer, Colin Neighbours (ph 753 9900). Members with unpaid subs at end of April are sent an account overdue notice. If still unpaid by 1 st June incur a penalty of 20%. Any members with unpaid subs at 1 st July are removed from membership. GEAR HIRE - TAC Equipment Officer: Phil Davies (759 4657) The following equipment is available for hire by TAC Club Members: Ice axes, ice hammers, helmets, harness (incl. karabiners, etc). Each item costs $5/day or a maximum of $10/day for 2 or more items per person. Return the gear promptly after use and you only pay for the days you actually used it. Return it late and risk paying for the complete period; Your choice. A PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) is also available for hire and great for back country tramping or alpine climbing. Contact the Equipment Officer AT LEAST 2 days in advance to ensure availability EVENTS PROGRAMME Club Information Club nights, trips, instruction and social events are all important functions of the Club s activities they need both support from participants as well as volunteers to lead them. If you have suggestions for club nights contact the Club Captain, or would like to volunteer to lead a trip contact the Trips co-ordinator. HiTAC Newsletter of the Taranaki Alpine Club A monthly newsletter emailed out to club members with an email address. Also available via the Clubs website www.taranakialpineclub.co.nz Any trip reports, events, gear for sale can be sent to the Editor at hitac.tac@outlook.com Each quarter the FMC ( Federated Mountain Clubs) Magazine is posted with a paper copy of the HiTAC. 11 Hi TAC
Club Contacts - OFFICERS & COMMITTE Officers Club Captain Phil Davies captain.tac@outlook.com (759 4657) President Jon Crane president.tac@outlook.com Secretary Elaine Sinton secretary.tac@outlook.com (755 0977) Treasurer Colin Neighbours treasurer.tac@outlook.com (753 9900) Vice President Matthew Penn vicepresident.tac@outlook.com (Ph 751-0005) Committee Ivan Bruce committee1.tac@outlook.com (Ph 751-1645) Scott Chamberlain committee2.tac@outlook.com (Ph 753-5212) Bryan Krijger committee3.tac@outlook.com (06) 751 1449 (027) 2070880 Grant Upson committee4.tac@outlook.com (753 5970) Joelle Xavier committee5.tac@outlook.com Lodge Services E Key Colin Neighbours ekey.tac@outlook.com Lodge Booking Steven Miller conveynor.tac@outlook.com (751 0272) Lodge Committee Robin Drake Services Equipment Phillip Davies equipment.tac@outlook.com (759 4657) HiTAC Phillip Andrews hitac.tac@outlook.com (756 8624) 027 2242308 Instruction Grant Upson instruction.tac@outlook.com New Members members.tac@outlook.com Open Cimb Open Climb openclimb.tac@outlook.com Social social.tac@outlook.com Trips Bryan Krijger trips.tac@outlook.com Website Matthew Penn website.tac@outlook.com Library Jeremy Beckers (758 1413) CHANGE OF ADDRESS Must be advised in writing Send to the Secretary by mail to Taranaki Alpine Club, PO Box 356, New Plymouth or email secretary.tac@outlook.com STAYING OVERNIGHT IN THE LODGE? If you do you must fill in the Overnight Register which is situated upstairs next to the fridge. Please read the instructions on what information is required, particularly if you decide to pay before departure. Record this beside your name and put the money in the envelope provided. If you prefer not to pay on departure, then that is OK, because an invoice will be sent to you in due course usually after the end of each quarter. If you decide to take your immediate family (who normally reside with you) to the Lodge overnight, remember...you can only claim member costs ($5 or $2.50) if you are registered with the Club as a FAMILY membership. If you are an ORDINARY then your family pay the full costs ($20 or $10). The alternative is to change membership status by contacting the Treasurer prior to staying at the Lodge. Colin Neighbours (Treasurer) 12 Hi TAC