ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Mark Moore TRAVERSING THE U.P. A plethora of options makes Michigan s Upper Peninsula an RVers heaven 24
It s easy to get lost in the vastness of Michigan s Upper Peninsula. Stretching for more than 300 miles, encompassing more than 16,000 square miles of land, and boasting more than 1,700 miles of freshwater shoreline, the U.P. is a paradise for RV travelers. Rich in history, the Upper Peninsula provides a breathtaking list of activities, ranging from the relaxing comfort of watching the sunset over Lake Superior to hiking to awe-inspiring vistas that stretch the skyline for miles. It s hard not to stop at every corner to take in the view, and why not? Activities available to the vacationer abound. So let your compass guide you through a diverse and unique landscape. A wealth of natural resources The Upper Peninsula s history revolves around its abundant natural resources. The first successful copper mine, near the small town of Phoenix in the Keweenaw Peninsula, began its operations in 1844, and for the next two generations a significant portion of the world s copper was mined in the Keweenaw. Iron ore was discovered and first refined in 1848. This mining boom sprang up towns across the U.P. as people sought their fortunes. That history can still be seen in the museums and roadside information plaques throughout the U.P. The region was given to Michigan in 1837, in exchange for Ohio laying claim to the city of Toledo. But it s remoteness and harsh living conditions have created a history that s vastly different from the lower portions of the state. One example is the pasty, a product that s unique to the U.P. Traditionally made from beef, potatoes, onion, rutabaga and turnip and baked inside a crust, the pasty was brought to the region by Cornish miners who settled the area in the mid-1800s to work the mines. It was easy to carry, easy to heat a meal on the go. Today, local restaurants serve pasties daily. Called Yoopers (a take-off on the U.P. name), residents fiercely identify with the region, and refer to the lower parts of Michigan as down south. The natural beauty of the Upper Peninsula has made it a top tourist destination, even in the winter. With 150 waterfalls, 19 state parks (all but one with campgrounds), 53 state forest campgrounds, more than 40 lighthouses, museums, quaint shops, scenic byways, and numerous county and local campgrounds, the Upper Peninsula has a lot to offer. Here s a snapshot: Black River National Scenic Byway In the western U.P., near the town of Bessemer, lies County Road 513 the Black River National Scenic Byway. The wellpaved road heads north toward Lake Superior for a little over 11 miles through a northern hardwood forest that drapes the roadway. Coursing along the road is the Black River, which unveils itself into a series of spectacular waterfalls. Ultimately, the Black River spills into Lake Superior. Five waterfall areas are within a short hike of the road, and are well signed with paved parking lots at the trail head. Be forewarned that while the falls are a short hike from the parking lots, most involve negotiating a series of steep steps (the Potawatomi/ Gorge falls offer a paved walking path to a vista point). The sound of rushing Gorge Falls is a short hike from the Black River Scenic Byway near Bessemer. It is one of five waterfalls along the byway. water through the forest is enough to get the heart pumping. At the end of the road, literally, sits a campground with sites on the bluffs overlooking Lake Superior. Porcupine Mountains Encompassing nearly 60,000 acres, the Porcupine Mountains State Park was established in 1945 to protect the last extensive tract of old-growth hardwood and hemlock forest remaining in the Midwest. Trails course through the Porkies offering opportunities to stretch the legs for day hikes, or multiday hikes for the more adventurous. The Union Bay Campground, located on the eastern end of the park, has 100 modern sites, with some that closely border the rocky shores of Lake Superior. It s an unmatched freshwater-ocean view. And although the lake can have its calm days, a northern wind can whip up awesome waves. Not to be missed is the short drive to the Lake of the Clouds Scenic area. Perhaps one of the more photographed areas in the region, the Lake of the Clouds offers a panoramic view of the Carp Valley and Lake of the Clouds some 300 feet below. It s a short walk from the parking lot to the vistas. The Eagle Harbor Lighthouse, in the town of Eagle Harbor, stands watch over the shores of Lake Superior, guiding marine traffic in much the same way it has since 1871. Windwhipped waves of Lake Superior meet the shorline east of Munising. Several designated turnouts give you direct access to miles of sandy beaches. Forested campsites await travelers throughout the Upper Peninsula. 25
A landmark in Ontonagon since 1970, Syl s serves up pasties, a food synonymous with the Upper Peninsula, and a lot of local flavor. Miners Castle, part of the 42-mile-long Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, stands sentry over Lake Superior. The area is easily accessible by RV, and offers some stunning views of Lake Superior and, to the east, Pictured Rocks. U.S. Highway 41 cuts through the heart of hardwood forests in the Keweenaw. Driving toward Copper Harbor, the forest envelopes the road. A series of steps lead hikers down to the rushing Black River and its series of spectacular waterfalls, all within short distances of each other. Campgrounds in the Upper Peninsula range from rustic to full hookups. Spots like this one at the end of the Black River Scenic Byway give you Lake Superior right out your back door. Lake Gogebic South of the Porcupine Mountains and 30 miles west of Ironwood sits the largest inland lake in the UP Lake Gogebic. Located in the Ottawa National Forest, it offers a tremendous point in which to explore the entire western U.P. In addition to several private campgrounds the Lake Gogebic State Park has 127 campsites, with 30 of those sites directly on the lake. setting. The museum features the Ontonagon Boulder, a 3,708-pound copper mass that sparked the copper rush in the Upper Peninsula. The museum also offers tours of the Ontonagon Lighthouse. And, if you re hungry, just down River Street is Syl s, where the pasty is a featured menu item. A staple in the area since 1970, Syl s comes highly recommended for a nice café that offers plenty of local flavor. per mining helped shape the region, its impact that can still be seen today. More than 11 billion pounds of copper were mined in the area from the 1840s to the late 1960s. That mining history is being preserved at the Keweenaw National Historic Park. Established in 1992, it is one of the nation s youngest national parks, and brings to life the history of mining in the area. Numerous sites make up the Park, including two national Historic Landmark Districts and 17 historic sites. You can take a ride deep into the earth at the Quincy Mine and Hoist, just outside Hancock (the building is hard to miss it towers over the area). Daily tours give you a feeling of what life was like for mine workers. But dress appropriately: Although there s not much walking involved, you are in a mine. Solid shoes are strongly recommended. And, the mine remains a cool 43 degrees year-round. To see how the other half lived, tour the Laurium Manor Inn, built in 1908 by a wealthy copper mine owner. The 13,000-squarefoot 45-room mansion shows the grandeur of the past. In Calumet, the Coppertown mining museum lets you step back into the past of the region, and a walking tour of Calumet gives you a glimpse of the booming era of copper mining. In its heyday, the area was a busy commerce center. Several ornate churches grace the downtown area. The tour also gives you a snapshot of the rich immigrant history of the region. English, Finnish, Swedish, Italian, Greek ROUTE 66 Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network Dealers: Ontonagon The Ontonagon Museum, located in downtown Ontonagon, provides a glimpse into the history of the area in a charming, local The Keweenaw Angling north into Lake Superior is the Keweenaw Peninsula, an area rich in natural beauty and historical significance. It is here where cop- Hilltop RV Superstore 2905 N. Lincoln Rd. Escanaba, MI 49829 (906) 786-7986 Hilltop RV Superstore 600 US 41 West Ishpeming, MI 49849 (906) 485-0200 26
The Chapel of the Catholic Monastery of the Byzantine Rite sits on the shoreline of Lake Superior. Across the street is the Jampot, operated by the Monastery and an area favorite for its jams. Located in Ishpeming, the U.S. National Ski Hall of Fame and Museum provides a detailed history of organized skiing in the United States. and Croatian (among others) settled the area to work in the bustling mines and forests. Driving north on Highway 41 in the Keweenaw, at the historic mining site of Phoenix, you have two travel options. Follow Highway 41 through the heart of the Keweenaw to Copper Harbor, or take M-26 which turns toward Lake Superior. M-26 offers stunning views of the shoreline as it meanders toward Copper Hopper, passing through the small towns of Eagle River and Eagle Harbor. It s a great tour to take one road up, and follow the other road back. The drive on Highway 41 leads to Copper Harbor, a small town at the northernmost point of Michigan, and the terminus of Highway 41 (a mileage marker indicates only 1,990 miles to Miami). Here is Ft. Wilkins State Park, with 160 campsites. The park features the restored army outpost, which was built here in 1844. The Copper Harbor lighthouse keeps watch over the harbor and Lake Superior, just as its done since the mid-1800s. Leaving Copper Harbor, M-26 follows the shoreline, passing through the towns of Eagle Harbor and Eagle River. At Eagle Harbor, a lighthouse has stood since 1851, replaced with the current brick structure in 1871. A must-stop is the Jampot, a small white building five miles west of Eagle Harbor. It s hard to miss on busy weekends when vehicles line the road to purchase the preserves, especially wild thimbleberry jam. The Catholic Monastery of the Byzantine Rite operates the 28 Jampot, and their ornate chapel across the road graces the shores of Lake Superior. The Jampot is closed on Sundays. Looking for a campground with a sunset view? Not many can rival F.J. McLain Sate Park. A fantastic view of Lake Superior, beautiful sunsets, 98 modern sites, and a lighthouse consistently ranks this park by campers as a must-visit place. It s located just north of Hancock, on the eastern site of the Portage Canal. Michigan Iron Industry Museum Just south of the town of Negaunee is the Michigan Iron Industry Museum, a must-stop for those who want to delve deeper into the history of mining in the region. The hands-on exhibits bring you back to the early years of mining and give you a glimpse of life as a miner. The museum overlooks the Carp River and is the site of the first iron forge in the Lake Superior region. This treasure trove is free, although donations are greatly appreciated. Pictured Rocks Just outside Munising, sandstone cliffs overlook Lake Superior for 42 miles. The Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is 70,000 acres of some of the most stunning views in the entire UP. Travelers from around the world have photographed the cliffs, FOR MORE INFORMATION: The Upper Peninsula Travel and Recreation Association (800) 562-7134 www.uptravel.com Michigan Association of Recreational Vehicles and Campgrounds (517) 349-8881 www.marvac.org stained by minerals and weathered by wind and waves. There are numerous camping opportunities throughout the area, from rustic campgrounds in the lakeshore, to nearby state, national and private campgrounds. One option to give you a taste of the shores is Miners Castle, east of Munising. Take county road 58 to county road 11, and point north. It s a straight drive of about 6 miles, and ends at Miners Castle. A short walk brings you to an overlook that hangs above Lake Superior and offers tremendous views. There s plenty of parking, and room to maneuver a rig. Another option, and one that s highly recommended, is taking a boat cruise to get up close and personal with the cliffs. Several private boats leave from Munising. Kitch-iti-Kipi Twelve miles west of Manistique is Kitch-iti-Kipi, a 45-foot deep spring that is 200 feet across and pumps 16,000 gallons of water per minute. The water remains a constant 45 degrees throughout the year and is crystal clear. Nearby Indian Lake State Park has more than 300 sites. Tahquamenon Falls Made famous by Longfellow in his Song of Hiawatha, Tahquamenon Falls offers a carefree respite from the road and a WEATHER Wait 10 minutes, the weather will change. It s possible that you ll hear the locals repeat this message to travelers. And no wonder, the vast expanse of Lake Superior has a major impact on the weather conditions in the Upper Peninsula. Northerly breezes off the lake cool shoreline areas. In one instance, the downtown Marquette temperature was 40 degrees, and 10 miles inland we registered 76 degrees, says weather broadcaster Karl Bohnak. Why? A varied terrain, the cool waters of Lake Superior, and the direction of the wind off the lake can have a significant impact in one area, yet none in an area only a few miles away. And, these temperature shifts can occur in dramatic fashion. Summers can be cool, especially along the lake. The mean temperature as recorded by the National Weather Service in Negaunee is 65 degrees in July, and drops to 54.2 degrees in September. First measurable snowfalls occur during the first week of October, but it s not uncommon to see flakes in September. The average date that snow leaves the hills is April 8. So, pack a jacket, even in the summer. setting that is paradise. The Upper Tahquamenon Falls is the second largest waterfall east of the Mississippi. The area is in the northeast corner of the U.P., near the town of Paradise. Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum North of Paradise on the shores Michigan Department of Natural Resources www.michigan.gov/dnr Association of RV Parks and Campgrounds www.michcampgrounds.com Travel Michigan www.michigan.org
The Quincy Mine and Hoist towers over the countryside, much the same was it has since the mid-1800s. Mining history is rich in the area, and is one of several mines that host underground tours. of Lake Superior stands Whitefish Point and the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum, a one-of-itskind museum that brings visitors closer to understanding the perils faced by sailors on the Great Lakes. The cold, deep waters and violent storms throughout time have claimed many ships throughout history, and the museum brings these tales to life. Mackinac Bridge First opened to traffic in 1957, the Mackinac Bridge is a sight to behold. It is 950 feet longer than the Golden Gate Bridge. Total length, including approaches, is nearly 5 miles over 34 water piers. Towering over the Straits of Mackinac, the bridge is credited for helping to stimulate tourism in the Upper Peninsula. And at night, the light show is spectacular. The Upper Peninsula of Michigan is truly a traveler s paradise. Whether you remain self-contained for weeks, or decide to park at a full-service campsite, the options are as endless as the sights. Take your time; it s worth the meander. [ Four travelers, four travel paths Options for recreational vehicle travel abound in the Upper Peninsula Ogden and Anne Munroe Sam and Linda Surratt Leo and Dorinda Young Travelers to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan have an open book. Whether it s a weekend get-away along the bluffs of Lake Superior, a long-term stay, a weeks-long meander or a week of exploration, the region offers something for everyone. The weekend get-away Russ and Tina Cywinksi pointed their Tiago Fleetwood north from their home in Wausau, Wis. Destination: the shores of Lake Superior. They found it with a campsite near the headwaters of the Black River that offers stunning views of Lake Superior. The views are simply breathtaking, Tina Cywinski says, her voice punctuated by the wind-whipped waves crashing on the shoreline below. A short walk from their site is Rainbow Falls. It s an area where we can park and hike, Russ Cywinski says. There are several waterfalls and trails along the river, and the beach is close. It s a welcomed weekend trip. We bring along the dog and the cat, Tina says. It s a beautiful place. A long-term stay Nestled right along the Portage Canal in the city of Houghton lies the city-owned RV park. And for Dr. Ogden and Anne Munroe of Springfield, Ill., their Monaco becomes home for two months. There s just so much to do in the area, says Anne Munroe. While she stays busy, Dr. Munroe s work with the American Board of Dental Examiners has him traveling part of their stay. I have a group of friends, and we ll go to Calumet or Eagle Harbor for lunch and shopping, Anne says. Seasoned RV travelers, the Munroes have made the Houghton park a mainstay for five years, and they plan on being back. Take a look at this view, 30 Ray and Linda Blush Ogden says. Looking out the front window, the Portage Canal is a busy waterway, with Coast Guard ships, pleasure boats, and massive freighters making their way through. I could sit here all day and watch the boats pass. And when the thimbleberries are in bloom, the Munroes take advantage of the hill behind the park that becomes a treasure trove of the luscious berries. And I ve found the best way to pick them, Ogden says. I put on my golf shoes for traction, and move right up the hill. A destination Stepping out of his Winnebago Journey DL, Sam Surratt points to exactly why he s here. Look at this view, as the sun peeks through the clouds to expose the hardwood forest south of his site. The leaves are beginning to show their colors, and the air is cool and crisp at Ft. Wilkins State Park, near Copper Harbor and at the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula. Sam and his wife, Linda, are traveling with Ray and Linda Blush. The Florida residents have been on the road for five weeks, and have been playing hopscotch across the Upper Peninsula. The Blushes are in a Holiday Rambler. The group entered the U.P. at the expansive Mackinac Bridge, and have stayed at state and private campgrounds along the way. They will head west to the Porcupine Mountains before pointing their rigs home. There s just so much to do and see, Ray Blush says. Every turn there s something new. They ve been busy. Fishing, hiking, boat tours, lighthouse tours, dining, sightseeing, mine tours, and just sitting around the campfire... all have been on the itinerary. We ve been impressed with the politeness of the people, Linda Surratt says. When we want to find out about things to do, we ask the locals. They re quick to help. Sam has also been impressed with the conditions of the camping sites they ve visited. It s easy to get in and out, and the sites are paved and level, he says. The campgrounds are top-notch. They re taking their time, and will stop when and where they want. Our record driving for one day is six miles, Sam says. Through the camera lens Leo and Dorinda Young are making the trip east to New Jersey from their home in Spokane, Wash. They were looking at the map and decided to take a detour to the UP. And they ve been overwhelmed. Absolutely stunning, Leo says of the area. We re taking a boat tour tomorrow of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. I can t wait to get close to the bluffs. The self-described camera buffs read about the area in a photography magazine, and have viewed the area through their camera lenses. We have plenty of film (Leo says he s still old-school when it comes to photos) on hand, and I plan on using it, he says. Being their first trip to the area, the Youngs are all eyes and ears. The scenery is magnificent, Dorinda says. There s just so much to see, and we ve only been in the Munising area. The Youngs are seasoned RV travelers, and choose their destinations based on the photographic opportunities. We will be back, Leo says. There are photo opportunities around every corner.