ENCHANTED SAXON TRANSYLVANIA ROMANIA A 5-night cycling & walking journey hosted by our founder Oli Broom through the wild landscapes, enchanting Saxon villages and famous wildflower meadows of southern Transylvania 11-16 MAY 2019 MAXIMUM GROUP SIZE 12 1,550 PER PERSON 200 E-BIKE SUPPLEMENT
A WELCOME FROM YOUR HOST I m delighted to be hosting another group of Slow Cyclists on this journey through the Saxon villages of Transylvania. Since 2015 I have spent more than a year living in one of the villages you will travel through. It is a very special corner of the world I have fallen in love with. Your local guides and the wonderfully hospitable people you will meet during your time with us - friends of ours whose lives have been spent in the forests, meadows and villages - will bring the place to life for our guests and, I know, help make for an experience that is as authentic as it is hard to beat. I have had a blast getting to know the place and I look forward to helping you do the same. Oli Broom Founder & Managing Director The Slow Cyclist There were just never ending delights in the shape of palinka, kittens, super chic bedrooms, gypsies, famous authors, home cooked meals, illustrious lawyers, Romanian romantics, cabbage lasagne, serenades. Wonderful. ELIZA BAILEY, TRANSYLVANIA, OCTOBER 2017 The most fabulous holiday. The first day setting off from Viscri, seeing the wildflowers, Monica s delicious lunch under the trees and then our cycle through the woods and meadows home again was pure magic and one of my happiest days ever. LOUISA & ED WOODS, TRANSYLVANIA, JUNE 2017 3
INTRODUCTION ABOUT Join us on a 5-night, supported and guided journey, on bikes and on foot, through a land that has been called an outpost of medieval Europe. The Saxon villages of southern Transylvania are set in a bucolic landscape in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains. We know the region like few others and will share the hospitality of local homes, visit remote UNESCO villages and fortified churches, sleep in beautiful traditional houses and witness a rural way of life that has changed little for centuries. You will cross remote meadows and high pastures and weave your way along cart tracks and through ancient oak and beech forests. Above all, you will have the opportunity to move at your own pace through a land of exceptional cultural and natural beauty. ETHOS HUNGARY TRANSYLVANIA CLUJ-NAPOCA MEDIAS SIBIU UKRAINE TARGU MURES SIGHISOARA SAXON VILLAGES MOLDOVA Of the many guests we have hosted, the vast majority have been curious travellers with a bit of juice in their legs, approaching their time with us as a slow journey rather than a test of fitness. That s not to say we don t ride hard sometimes, just that we are often distracted by the food, history and people that make this place so special. When we see something interesting, we tend to stop and take it in rather than race by. SEASON In May the forests and meadows in this region are emerging from a long winter and bursting into an array of vivid greens. There are bound to be a few early wildflowers too so it s an exciting time to be out and about and on the move. SERBIA BULGARIA BRASOV ROMANIA BUCHAREST ILLUSTRATION BY LIVI GOSLING FOR THE SLOW CYCLIST 4
HISTORY OF SAXON TRANSYLVANIA Transylvania formed the eastern-most reaches of the Austro- Hungarian Empire until 1918, when it was absorbed into modern Romania. It may be famous as the home of Bram Stoker s Dracula but we suggest you leave your fanged preconceptions at home. Transylvania is home to some of Europe s most beguiling and wild landscapes. The Saxon Villages of Tarnava Mare, cradled in the horseshoe of the Carpathian Mountains, were first colonized by Germans - or Saxons - from the 12th Century, when King Geza II of Hungary asked for protection from invading Ottomans and Tatars. The Saxons built fortifications; the most important towns A fabulous holiday. The scenery, the flowers, the forests, the history, the beauty of it all spoke for itself, but the thought and extra touches that you put in made all the difference. A surprise around every corner. TANIA RUCK-KEENE, TRANSYLVANIA, MAY 2016 were duly strengthened and smaller communities started by fortifying their church. Up to a quarter of a million Saxons remained for more than 800 years but the population began to decrease after World War II, when many returned to Austria and Germany. The migration continued under Ceausescu and today fewer than 35,000 Saxons live in Transylvania. They speak a dialect that is distinct from modern German and follow many of the religious and cultural customs that their families did for centuries. Their ancestral villages are shared with new neighbours: Romanians, Hungarians and Gypsies are breathing new life into abandoned houses, fields and vineyards and the result is an exhilarating fusion of cultures. It is a land of architectural, cultural and natural riches, where traditions, food and family are celebrated and visitors are welcomed with genuine warmth. 5
ITINERARY Absolutely amazing. I m left wondering where on earth I am going to go next that will match this experience. REBECCA EVANS, TRANSYLVANIA, JUNE 2015 DAY 1, SATURDAY 11 MAY ARRIVAL For those arriving on the recommended flight, we provide the transfer to Richis (3 hours), a tiny village in the heart of Saxon Transylvania. There you will have dinner and stay in the former priest s house adjoining the fortified church. DAY 2, SUNDAY 12 MAY RICHIS TO MALANCRAV Cycling 8 or 27 kms - Walking 3.5 hours (or 30 kms cycling) We will show you some of our favourite things in Richis before cycling to Biertan, where we will visit its UNESCO church. From there it s a short ride over the hill to Copsa Mare for lunch. In the afternoon we will cycle over a series of forested ridges to Nou Sasesc and on to Malancrav, where you will stay in a sumptuous 15th Century Hungarian mansion or in charming Saxon houses in the village. DAY 3, MONDAY 13 MAY MALANCRAV TO SIGHISOARA Cycling 37 kms - Walking 1.5 hours After visiting the fortified church in Malancrav, home to some of the best frescoes in Romania, we will spend the morning cycling to Stejareni for a picnic lunch in the meadows. In the afternoon we ll climb on foot to Breite, a protected Saxon-planted oak forest. There we will meet our bikes again for the descent into Sighisoara s celebrated citadel, the alleged birthplace of Vlad the Impaler, inspiration for Bram Stoker s Dracula. Supper is a Transylvanian feast prepared by our friend Monica and you will stay at an elegantly restored Gothic townhouse. DAY 4, TUESDAY 14 MAY SIGHISOARA TO CRIT Cycling 30 kms - Walking 2 hours (or 17 kms cycling) We will walk through Sighisoara in the morning to explore the citadel s history, before setting off on trails to Saschiz for lunch with our friends Anca and Charlie, some of the first members of Slow Food Transylvania. The trails give way to a long descent on forest roads into Crit for dinner in the simple home of Rozi, Nicu and family. Nicu cooks a mean barbeque in their beautiful orchard. DAY 5, WEDNESDAY 15 MAY CRIT TO VISCRI Walking 2 hours (or 7 kms cycling) - Cycling 20 kms We ll start the day with Mr Pandea, the village beekeeper who provides much of Highgrove s honey. Leaving his home we ll walk to Mesendorf for lunch in a private garden. In the afternoon it is back in the saddle for an incredible ride with sweeping views of some of Transylvania s most magnificent sheep grazing country. Your home for the night will be a comfortable and traditional guesthouse in the picturesque village of Viscri. DAY 6, THURSDAY 16 MAY DEPARTURE Cycle optional You may opt for a pre-breakfast bike ride, to be rewarded by unsurpassed views over the hills shrouded with mist. After a morning spent exploring Viscri s UNESCO fortified church we will take you to Mosna for lunch at the home of Willy Schuster, a Saxon with a passion for all things organic. It ll be an inspiring end to your time with us, as we say goodbye and send you on your way to Sibiu airport. TRIP EXTENSION Many of our guests spend more time in Romania either before or after their adventure with us. Whether you would like to hike in the Carpathians or explore the painted monasteries of Bucovina or the magnificent cultural traditions of Maramures, we can help. Let us know when booking and we will be in touch. 6
MAP OF THE SAXON VILLAGES YOUR OVERNIGHT STAYS ARE MARKED WITH A RED DOT TO TARGU MURES DUMBRAVENI SIGHISOARA TO MEDIAS SASCHIZ BIERTAN COPSA MARE STEJARENI DAIA CRIT MALANCRAV RICHIS MESENDORF TO BRASOV & BUCHAREST VISCRI TO SIBIU ILLUSTRATION BY LIVI GOSLING FOR THE SLOW CYCLIST 7
ON THE MOVE THE CYCLING & WALKING The walking sections of the journey take you through a mix of pastoral and wild landscapes, from deciduous forests to high pastures and wildflower meadows. The cycling consists of quiet tarmac roads, gravel roads, cart tracks, meadows and narrow forest trails. These subtly designed trails have been built and maintained by some of our local team over the past few years. They connect several villages - often taking steep hills out of the equation - and enable us to travel through incredible landscapes in all weather conditions. For some of our guests the trails take a little getting used to, but cyclists of all ages and abilities more often than not find them to be the cycling highlight of their visit. Whether you are a novice or experienced cyclist, our guides are skilled at spotting your ability and level of confidence and reacting accordingly. Transylvania is hilly and the distances we cover, although not huge, are still not inconsiderable so although One of the best holidays we have ever had. Pure magic from beginning to end. We have been riding on a high ever since returning home and have been telling everyone. NIGEL SAVORY, TRANSYLVANIA, MAY 2018 you don t need to be Chris Froome, you should have good general fitness and be comfortable riding a bicycle on dirt roads and paths, up and down hills. There will always be someone travelling at your pace; this is a journey to take time over. BIKES & E-BIKES We supply the bikes and the variety of terrain means that hardtail (front suspension) mountain bikes are the best tool for the job. We also have electric mountain bikes and if the thought of pedalling up hills without sweating sounds even remotely appealing, we recommend you pay the supplement and opt for one. Pedalling is assisted so you re able to choose how much energy to expend. Around 40% our our guests in Transylvania choose e-bikes these days and nobody has regretted it yet. A FLEXIBLE APPROACH There are very few people who know the hills, villages and people in this corner of Transylvania better than our local guides. We believe that travel is at its best when flexible and we are particularly proud of our ability to take each day as it comes, reacting to the different abilities, tastes and personalities in the group. For that reason there will often be route changes, shortcuts and longer routes available for those who wish. With that in mind, please treat this itinerary as an initial guide. You are bound to have experiences, see places and meet people that we haven t listed here. There may be occasions when, for good reason, we cannot fulfill every detail in this itinerary. Please treat distances as estimates as the routes may vary. 8
PRACTICAL INFORMATION GUIDES, HOST & SUPPORT ACCOMMODATION FOOD & DRINK CLIMATE We know that guides can make or break a trip, which is why we are so pleased to have developed a fantastic local team of guides with skills and interests ranging from European history and anthropology to conservation and, of course, cycle touring. They all live locally, speak great English, love sharing their region and, we re sure, will become your firm friends by the time you leave. In addition to two local guides, the group will be hosted by Oli Broom, the founder of The Slow Cyclist. Your bags will be driven ahead each day and a support vehicle will be on hand in case you really need a lift. Each night s accommodation has been chosen for its charm, comfort and location; whether staying in one of the best guest houses in Transylvania or with a local family, rest assured that you will always be comfortable and well looked after. Lodging is based on twin sharing although a single supplement is available. Rooms are ensuite when possible and WiFi or a good 3G connection is available each night. The accommodation listed in this itinerary is a guide, though any substitutes will be of similar quality. Transylvanian food is simple, fresh, delicious and the very definition of organic. Sometimes you ll eat out in the open, at other times in private homes, traditional kitchens and small guest houses. Romanian wines are underrated and you will taste several fantastic labels during your stay. You will also be served plenty of homemade wine, plum and pear brandies. During the day we provide local fruits as well as delicious energy slices by UK-based GB Chew. Allergies and other preferences are noted at the time of booking. Transylvania has a temperate climate. Spring usually bursts in late April, when typical daytime temperatures are around 15-20 C. Things warm up towards summer: 15-25 C is typical in May and June, and in July and August temperatures of 30-35 C are not uncommon. Autumn begins in September when temperatures gradually decline. By the second half of October temperatures average between 10 and 15 C. Winters can be extremely harsh, with temperatures as low as -30 C. Except in the height of summer evenings are cool. Rainfall may be at any time of year. 9
PRICE & BOOKING PRICE: 1,550 PER PERSON WHAT IS INCLUDED? Airport transfers (for recommended flights) & support vehicle Slow Cyclist host & English-speaking local guides All accommodation, meals, snacks & drinks All activities Bicycle & helmet hire 100% financial security OPTIONAL EXTRAS Single Supplement 250 Electric Bicycle Supplement 200 WHAT IS EXCLUDED? Flights Personal costs Travel insurance Visas (if required) HOW TO BOOK Visit theslowcyclist.co.uk/join-a-trip and fill out the online booking form. A 30% deposit is required within 24 hours and the balance due no less than 8 weeks before your departure date. ENQUIRIES Please call Milly Wiggin on +44 (0) 7970 042 617 or email milly@ theslowcyclist.co.uk. 10
TRAVEL OPTIONS FLIGHTS & TRANSFERS ALTERNATIVES Flights are not included in the cost of the trip. You are responsible for booking your own flights to and from Romania. If you book the recommended flight (below) you will be collected and dropped off free of charge. The recommended flights are: If you would like to make alternative travel arrangements to and from the start of the trip, of course you may. We will be happy to arrange transfers but we will not be able to provide a free service. You may wish to consider the following arrival destinations: 11 May Wizz Air - Luton (08:15) to Cluj-Napoca (13:10) 16 May Wizz Air - Sibiu (18:55) to Luton (20:00) Bucharest Airport: Wizz Air & Blue Air - 5 hours by car from Richis (taxi 210) Sibiu Airport: Wizz Air & Blue Air - 1.5 hours by car from Richis (taxi 60) Targu Mures Airport: Wizz Air & Blue Air - 1.5 hours by car from Richis (taxi 50) Sighisoara Train Station: trains from Sibiu, Bucharest, Cluj Napoca several times a day 11
AND FINALLY... THE SLOW CYCLIST STORY SUPPORTING THE COMMUNITY FURTHER READING The Slow Cyclist story began in October 2009 when, dissatisfied with a career in the City, Oli Broom jumped on a bike and cycled to Australia to watch the Ashes cricket series. It took him 412 days which means that, by any definition, he is a bona fide slow cyclist. A book followed. Cycling to the Ashes: A Cricketing Odyssey from London to Brisbane was published in July 2013, by which time Oli had spent two years living in Rwanda, running an unlikely project to build a much-needed home for cricket in the country s capital, Kigali. It was there that Oli s love for exploring new places was cemented and he returned home to London intent on taking others to experience beautiful parts of the world by bicycle. Our favourite ever holiday. Everything was an absolute delight from the cycling, accommodation, food, the guides and all the small surprises. Authentic and so beautiful. Will, Szabi and Dan were absolutely fantastic. We want to come with you to Transylvania again next year. JACQUELINE ENOCH, TRANSYLVANIA, JULY 2017 Since 2016 we have donated over 3,000 to charities that preserve the beautiful Saxon buildings you will see. In 2019 we are delighted to have formed a new partnership with Fundatia ADEPT, a biodiversity conservation and rural development NGO based in Saschiz, on your route. For the past 14 years ADEPT has been working to protect the nature-rich, farmed landscapes of Transylvania and to support the traditional farming communities who have created them over centuries and who maintain them today. Their mission is to give these landscapes and communities an economic future in the 21st century without sacrificing their sustainability and productivity. Throughout 2019 we will be: donating a small amount from each trip to help support their organic farm in Angofa, outside Sighisoara Donating 2 per guest to support the maintenance of the trails you will cycle along between Sighisoara and Viscri (Fundatia ADEPT built the trails from 2014) Along the Enchanted Way by William Blacker A wonderful account of the author s life amongst the rural people of Maramures after the fall of communism, and later in the Saxon villages. Transylvanian Trilogy by Miklos Banffy Banffy was a nobleman, politician and novelist whose ancestral home was in Cluj-Napoca, in modern day Romania. His fictional Transylvanian Trilogy is an unrivalled study of the decline of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Along the Enchanted Way by William Blacker A wonderful account of the author s life amongst the rural people of Maramures after the fall of communism, and later in the Saxon villages. Transylvanian Trilogy by Miklos Banffy Banffy was a nobleman, politician and novelist whose ancestral home was in Cluj-Napoca, in modern day Romania. His fictional Transylvanian Trilogy is an unrivalled study of the decline of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. 12
Slow and steady doesn t win the race. But it definitely has more fun along the way and comes home with better stories. TIM MOORE, AUTHOR & FELLOW SLOW CYCLIST BOOK NOW