\? \,«-- UNIVERSITY OF HONG KONG LIBRARY Hong Kong Collection Gift from: Information Services Dept., Hong Kong
CONTENTS Page General Information 3 & Lantau Island 4 Beaches 4 Walks 4 Monasteries 5 Places of Interest 6 Accommodation & Facilities 9 Cheung Chau 9 Bun Festival 10 Peng Chau 11 Lamma Island < f 12 Ma Wan.;.,...,...,...,... 13 Map Notes..,....;. 15
GENERAL INFORMATION Although Hong Kong consists of only about 1037 square kilometres (400 square miles) of land, it is fortunate that so much scenic variety exists within the area. And no part of it is more beautiful or more intriguing than the outlying islands. The islands on this map are those which lie to the south and west of Hong Kong Lantau, Cheung Chau, Peng Chau, Ma Wan and Lamma Islands. Tsing Yi Island also could be said to fall within this category, but it is being industrialised and developed so rapidly that it hardly still qualifies as "countryside". It is connected to the mainland by a road bridge. Two other south-western islands Hei Ling Chau and Shek Kwu Chau are unfortunately restricted to the public, due to their use as drug treatment and rehabilitation centres. Visitors can reach the five "countryside" islands via The Hong Kong & Yaumati Ferry Company their vessels leave on scheduled times from the Outlying Islands Ferry Pier at Connaught Road Central, for Cheung Chau, Peng Chau, and Ma Wan Islands; there are also services to Mui Wo (Silver Mine Bay), Chi Ma Wan, Tung Chung and Tai 0, all located on Lantau Island. The service to Lamma Island, calls at Yung Shue Wan and Sok Kwu Wan. Access to Ma Wan is also possible via a "kai-do" (a motorised junk carrying passengers) which leaves from Sham Tseng; a similar service runs to Lantau from Tsing Lung Tau. Regular ferries also connect Tai 0 and Tung Chung, on Lantau, with Tuen Mun (Castle Peak). "Kai-dos" also run regularly between Peng Chau and the Trappist Haven jetty at Tai Shui Hang, on Lantau; between Silver Mine Bay and Chi Ma Wan; and between Cheung Chau and Chi Ma Wan, Tai 0 and Fan Lau. It is worth noting that such craft can be hired at virtually all major centres to run over any desired route. In planning a trip to the outlying islands ferry times should be carefully noted. It must be realised that ferry trips, although interesting in their own right, are very time consuming. For example, a ferry trip from Tai 0 to Hong Kong via Tung Chung and Ma Wan takes at least three hours. A trip between Hong Kong and Cheung Chau takes about one hour, one-way. But to many visitors a restful ferry voyage, often in a fully air-conditioned vessel, is a joy in itself. During the summer months the ferry company also runs excursion trips to various islands. Having reached a "countryside" island, visitors must be prepared to walk if they wish to experience the exquisite tranquillity and sheer difference of it all.
Apart from the chance of hiring a bicycle at some centres, walking is the only means of travel. Only on Lantau are motor vehicles allowed and then only by special permit from the Transport Department. A franchised bus service runs between Mui Wo and Tung Chung and Mui Wo to Tai 0, with intermediate termini at Pui Q, Cheung Sha, Shek Pik and Ngong Ping. It is also possible to hire passenger vans (15 seat) at Mui Wo. LANTAU ISLAND (literally "broken head island" in Cantonese) is sometimes referred to as Tai Yue Shan ("big island mountain"). It is the largest island in the Hong Kong archipelago and has an area of 141.6 square kilometres (54.7 square miles) which comprises more than one-eighth of the total land area of Hong Kong and is almost twice the size of Hong Kong Island. Lantau is geographically very similar to the rest of the territory, having rugged terrain of great scenic grandeur, with Lantau Peak rising to 934 metres (3,064 feet). Agricultural land is limited, and with a population of less than 20,000 people, Lantau remains as a relatively undeveloped, natural playground for Hong Kong's working people. Within easy reach are superb yet uncrowded beaches, scenic hiking country, woods, monasteries, fishing villages and farming communities. In effect the island has something to offer for every nature lover, or for anyone who wishes to "get away from it all". Beaches There is only one officially supervised and equipped beach on Lantau Island that at Mui Wo. It is the most popular beach largely because of its proximity to the main ferry perir, but this is also its downfall. Largely because of a regular influx of ferry trippers, it is rated as the most crowded and least clean of all the island's beaches. The long stretches of beach running from Cheung Sha to Tong Fuk are much better, and have some privately owned facilities. These beaches are easily reached by bus from Mui Wo and are probably the most magnificent in Hong Kong. There are many others, some within walking distance of Mui Wo or close to a bus stop. As examples, one might list Lo Uk Tsuen, near Pui 0; Ngau Kwu Wan, an easy walk round the headland south of Mui Wo; Tai Long Wan, within walking distance of Shek Pik; and Nim Shue Wan at Tai Hing, which may be reached by walking from the jetty at Tai Shui Hang. Any place the sand symbol appears on the map is worth investigating as a possible bathing beach. Walks During the autumn and winter months nothing is more enjoyable than a well organised day trip to the outlying islands.
You might begin with an early-morning ferry trip to a disembarkation point followed by an invigorating walk perhaps right across Lantau and end with a ferry trip home, via a different route. Such a trip is easily planned, but it must be thought out well in advance, and the ferry schedules closely checked. It is advisable to try the shorter walks first: such as the one from the Trappist Haven jetty to Mui Wo, or from Mui Wo to Chi Ma Wan. The really adventurous walks are from Mui Wo to Tung Chung (five hours) via the famous Silver Mine Cave, or from Tai 0 to Tung Chung (five hours). It should be noted that the Silver Mine Cave is now walled up, to avoid danger to the public. By including a bus ride on the schedule, you should be able to see more of the scenery and add yet another walk to the round trip Ngong Ping to Tung Chung (2-3 hours). For the hardy walker, the walk from the Forestry Office at Nam Shan, near Mui Wo, up to Sunset Peak and down to Tung Chung is also a possibility. A leaflet issued by the Hong Kong Tourist Association (telephone 5-244191) is helpful in describing popular walks on Lantau; but by carefully studying the accompanying map, you should be able to discover several optional routes. It should be noted that as there are very few facilities and natural water is very limited in the dry season, it is as well to carry liquid refreshment when on hill walks. Great care should be taken on high ground, especially when the visibility is reduced by low cloud. Rescue from a fall in such conditions could be difficult. Monasteries There are several interesting Buddhist monasteries and one well-known Trappist monastery on Lantau. Some of the Buddhist orders welcome visitors and can offer refreshment and overnight accommodation. In fact, the famous and picturesque Po Lin Tse (Precious Lotus Monastery) at Ngong Ping is now partially organised as a tourist centre. Situated in splendid high-altitude country, and served by buses from Mui Wo and Tai 0, Po Lin Tse is a perfect stepping-off place for a tour of the local countryside. Hong Kong's only commercial tea plantations are found nearby and it is also a convenient starting point for Lantau Peak should you wish to witness the famous sunrise. The Po Lin Tse monks positively welcome the casual visitor and operate a large restaurant where tasty vegetarian food is available throughout the day. Overnight accommodation is also available, but you should book this in advance either by letter or telephone. In the vicinity of Luk Wu, about 15 minutes walk from the Ngong Ping bus route, is the very ornate Yin Hing Monastery, where visitors are also made
welcome and food and accommodation can be obtained in superb, peaceful surroundings. Other religious dwellings which are known to offer refreshment are the Ling Van Monastery and Kwun Yam Temple; shelter is also possible at the latter. Rather further afield isthetsz Hing (T'zu Hsing Ch'an) Monastery, idyllically located in the mountains a good hour's walk from Tai 0, or from the bus stop near Kwun Yam Temple. Although not objecting to visitors, the very small complement of monks and nuns including one American at present cannot physically cope with large numbers and hence must limit visits to those interested in Buddhism. Sunday is the best day for a casual visit. Limited overnight lodging, for those who wish to undergo meditational retreats, san also be arranged in advance (c/o Tai 0 Post Office). This monastery is guarded by a most impressive six metre long dragon situated on the hill side above, which can be reached by a second path without disturbing the tranquillity of the residents within. Monks at the Trappist Haven at Tai Shui Hang, whilst not positively catering for them, do welcome visitors especially those who come for spiritual purposes. Those who would like to spend a few days in spiritual exercises and contemplation may book the guest house at least two weeks in advance (P.O. Box 5, Peng Chau). The Trappists live their monastic lives in silence and look upon their monastery as a sanctuary from the world. They are industrious, farming the surrounding land and running a fine dairy herd, milk from which is ferried daily to supply a famous hotel in Hong Kong. Tourists are permitted to use the Trappist's jetty and may pass through the grounds en route to such places as Mui Wo and Tai Pak. When visiting any monastery it is essential that you should respect the beliefs of the monks and preserve the prevailing religious atmosphere, by courteous and polite behaviour. By doing this, you will ensure that these peaceful, and perhaps strange or unusual precincts retain their privacy and sense of purpose yet remain open for the enjoyment of the public. Places of Interest The following places are also worthy of note: Penny's Bay and Yam 0 Wan in north Lantau are the site of two very different and fascinating industries. In Penny's Bay is the main yard of one of Hong Kong's most famous boatyards, which specialises in the production of sailing cruisers for the export market. The biggest log ponds in Hong Kong are located at Yam 0 Wan. Here, timber from all over south-east Asia is kept in floating storage until required. Large rafts of logs may often be seen being towed by tug towards Tsuen Wan. Discovery Bay is at present serene and undisturbed and notable only for an abandoned cattle depot at Ta Hing. But this area has the potential to
become one of the largest holiday resorts on Lantau, and plans have already been drawn up for a large hotel and a holiday camp project which may eventually include a golf course, marina and similar facilities. The Silver Mine Bay area (Mui Wo) is a popular starting point for many excursions on Lantau; it is already a major resort area and several holiday-camp and hotel projects are under way. The main village area is largely populated by the "boat people" who live aboard junks and sampans many of which never seem to put to sea. The main beach offers excellent sand, but better bathing can be found in less frequented areas. Several beach restaurants and refreshment kiosks open in season at Silver Mine Bay, and meals can be obtained all year round in the main village. Although this village has little of historic interest, it is an excellent example of Chinese village development in modern times and three old lookout towers are still standing. The surrounding farmland is very fertile and a walk to the abandoned silver mine and adjacent waterfall is not very strenuous. Chi Ma Wan Peninsula takes its name from H.M. Prison, located on the north-eastern shore, and was earlier known as Tai Long Peninsula. It is reasonably accessible by ferry, by "kai-do", or by walking from Pui 0. The peninsula offers good walks through well established forestry plantations and possesses fine beaches at Yi Long and Tai Long Wans, in the south. A luxury residential project has recently been proposed for Yi Long. Shek Pik Reservoir, with a capacity of about 25 million cubic metres (5,500 million gallons), was completed in 1963 and is now at the centre of an area of scenic beauty. The natural direct catchment of the reservoir is augmented by a system of catchwater channels and tunnels which carry water from distant streams and valleys. Water from the reservoir is carried by tunnel to a treatment works at Silver Mine Bay and thence by pipeline to Hong Kong Island. Shek Pik can be reached by bus; in the summer, the beaches at Tai Long Wan are inviting while in the cooler months the reservoir and the surrounding forest plantation are ideal locales for hiking and picnicking. Visitors are reminded that the reservoir water is for consumption in Hong Kong and should be kept unpolluted; camping is not permitted within the water gathering ground area marked by a blue boundary on the map. Fan Lau, in the extreme south-west corner of Lantau, is one of the least accessible places in Hong Kong a trip by "kai-do" from Tai 0 is probably the best bet. The beaches one facing due east and the other due west are first class, and within ten minutes walk from each other. The ruins of an ancient fort are visible on the hilltop at Fan Lau, and although very overgrown they are well worth a visit. The view from atop the wall at the ruins is superb. Just across the bay at Kau Ling Chung lies an obelisk which was placed in position in 1902 by officers of the Royal Navy to mark longitude 113 52' the boundary line separating Hong Kong from China. This boundary has since been modified in the south-west A similar monument was raised on the same
longitude at Po Chue Tarn, on Lantau's northern shore. Apparently the Royal Navy did not place the obelisks very accurately; subsequent survey has shown that both are about 300 metres too far to the west, and their recorded heights above sea level are wildly inaccurate. A half hour's walk westwards along the catchwater at Ngau Kwo Tin (alight from the bus at Keung Shan near the Kwun Yam Temple) will bring you to the footpath leading to the Lung Tsai locality and the well known summer house and garden Ng Yuen. This is a privately owned Chinese-style building, intricately embellished and surrounded by carp-filled ponds, traditionally styled bridges and ornamental gardens. Sightseers are admitted free of charge, so please respect the generosity of the owner by observing correct behaviour. Not far beyond Ng Yuen isthetsz Hing Monastery, guarded by the large stone and plaster dragon, (see reference under Monasteries). Tai 0 has long been the principal town on Lantau and is still the largest centre of population. Accessible by ferry or bus, Tai 0 is traditionally Chinese in character. Its most notable features include the houses built on stilts in the creek, and the many boat squatters whose original boats can be dimly discerned beneath the structural additions of many years. Of especial interest are the disused salt pans, which were once the centre of an extensive export trade to China. The 10-cent ferry ride across the creek by rope-drawn sampan is also unique. Saltfish obtainable in Tai 0 is famous for its high standard. Tung Chung is also an ancient settlement, but here the accent has always been on agriculture rather than fishing. The village area is less interesting than Tai 0 and visitors are not well catered for; Tung Chung is a thriving farming community which remains aloof from day trippers. The local soil is very rich and shallots are widely cultivated. Tung Chung Fort probably dates from the 17th century and was reputedly occupied by the notorious pirate Cheung Po-tsai at the turn of the 18th century. It still has cannon one dated 1809 aimed over its walls, but as a concession to the 20th century the inside buildings have been converted into a schoolf The rather shallow anchorage at Tung Chung precludes the use of large ferries at low tide, and visitors sometimes have to trans-ship by sampan. The neighbouring island of Chek Lap Kok is relatively barren and sparsely populated, but may be attractive to some for those very reasons. It received much publicity recently as a possible site for Hong Kong's second international airport. At Sunset Peak is a long-established "summer retreat", consisting of bungalows owned by missionary societies and various clubs. The bungalows are usually occupied only in the summer months, when the relatively high altitude offers a welcome drop in temperature. The walk to Sunset Peak from the Nam Shan Forestry Post near Mui Wo takes about three hours on the up-grade, but less on the down-grade. 8
Accommodation and Facilities As yet, there has been no serious attempt to cater for visitors to Lantau. Overnight accommodation exists at some monasteries, as already stated, and some private bungalows and holiday flats are beginning to appear at such sites as Cheung Sha. Certain holiday camps are operated commercially and by societies such as the Y.W.C.A., for the benefit of their members and the Hong Kong Playground Association has recently established holiday camps at Mui Wo, Tung Chung and San Shek Wan for group use. The determined visitor must either try the hospitality of the monasteries, join a club with accommodation facilities, or make private arrangements. The local catering is also rather unsophisticated. Basic Chinese food can be obtained at any settlement, however, and it is surprising how readily ice-cold drinks may be obtained, even in the most remote areas. Sea food is available throughout the year at Tai 0 and Mui Wo. Western-style meals are available only at the Tong Fuk Store, which is situated, funnily enough, at Pui 0! This restaurant has been nicknamed the "Lantau Hilton" and is very popular with visiting Europeans. Official barbecue facilities are now being established in suitable localities, and a popular alternative is to bring your own cold food or sandwiches. Visitors are warned that barbecues other than at these approved barbecue places are now prohibited by law because of the danger of hill fires which could destroy much of the beauty of the countryside. Much change is now in the air on Lantau, as evidenced by the vast holiday complex being planned for Tai Pak. This complex will incorporate every facility for relaxation, and is being aimed at the higher income bracket Yi Long Wan is to become the site for a residential complex, and steady improvement is expected in the availability of hotel accommodation at Mui Wo, Cheung Sha and Tai 0. Youth hostel associations have also announced plans for developing various sites; and the Government is establishing camping sites near Pui 0 and at Nam Shan. These sites, together with the barbecue spots are professionally managed by the Agriculture and Fisheries Department and will hopefully form part of a country park embracing the whole Pak Fu Tin area in the future. CHEUNG CHAU (literally "long island" in Cantonese) is by far the most populous of Hong Kong's outlying islands, and supports 16,000 people (as many as Lantau Island) in an area of 2.3 square kilometres (0.9 square miles). Cheung Chau has a long history of settlement. This relatively prosperous community is now centred around the fishing industry, and has in the past boosted its economy with smuggling and piracy. The island is justly popular with day trippers from Hong Kong and is well served by fast, air-conditioned ferry services. It is shaped like a dumbbell, and the central section or "waist" is densely populated.
Although Cheung Chau is undergoing some rapid, modern re-development, it still retains much of its traditional oriental ambience. The area is a beehive of numerous small industries mainly connected with the sea and fishing. The town area is well endowed with restaurants, many renowned for their seafood and strategically located to provide an interesting view of the harbour and its large fleet of sea-going fishing junks. The southern half of Cheung Chau provides a variety of interests. A leisurely stroll along the Sai Wan "road", via Tai Shek Hau and Shui Hang, brings the visitor to the headland above Sai Wan where barbecue facilities have been built. En route, a cross-section of island life may be witnessed, including the "Round Table" villages which have been built from funds donated by the Round Table Association and affiliated young men's service clubs. On the headland is an interesting temple with rest pavilions; here, too, is a cave said to have been used by the infamous pirate Cheung Po-tsai it is actually a subterranean passage formed by falling boulders. Continuing along this circular route, the visitor passes through the "C.A.R.E." village, which was built with funds provided from America. Skirting Sai Yuen, where there is a sizeable private farm, the route continues through pleasant rural country to the so-called Peak Road West. Approaching the town centre, the visitor encounters a suburban-type built-up area, comprising the residences of Hong Kong Island commuters and the homes of long-established Cheung Chau residents. The northern part of the island is less attractive and has remained relatively empty and unchanged over the years. The main beaches at Tung Wan and Kwun Yam Wan (Afternoon Beach) offer excellent sand and well-developed facilities that are close to restaurants and the ferry terminal. At these beaches, however, the sea is not always as clean as it might be, and a walk to Po Yue Wan (Italian Beach) or Tai Kwai Wan on the North-west side, will repay the effort. None of the beaches near the populated western harbour are suitable for bathing, since they are heavily polluted. Bun Festival Cheung Chau is famed for its unique "bun festival" held annually over four days, some time about May. The origin of the festival is very doubtful but the best known legend tells of how, during the heyday of the Cheung Chau pirates there arose a great storm, followed by an epidemic which claimed many lives. The villagers attributed the disaster to the ghosts of innocent people killed by the pirates, and invited the local priests to devise ceremonies to appease the Gods and ensure that such a calamity was not repeated. The bun festival brings out huge parades of village children dressed as characters from legend or history, some walking on stilts and some riding on floats. The most remarkable event takes place on an appointed day, at 10
midnight Hundreds of islanders swarm up "bun hills" to grab one of the holy buns for good luck. They believe that the higher up the bun, the better luck it brings. Each "bun hill" is a framework of bamboo scaffolding, up to 20 metres high, covered with edible buns. This frantic scramble takes place in the forecourt of the Pak Tai Temple at the northern end of the town. The temple itself is of interest, since it contains such historical relics as a large iron sword reputed to be about 800 years old, a sedan chair, a golden crown, a stone cauldron and some solid granite pillars depicting dragons. PENG CHAU is an island well served by Yaumati ferries, and is perhaps the third choice after Lantau and Cheung Chau of the Hong Kong day trippers. Like Cheung Chau, Peng Chau also has a closely populated "waist" area, but in this case it is shaped like a "C", rather than a dumbbell. Although Peng Chau has a total area of only 90 hectares (0.35 square mile), the population is estimated to be above 8000. While the indigenous population still tends to drift towards Hong Kong, there has developed in recent years a counter-current of middle-class people who settle on the island in search of peace and a quiet, car-less society. Yet they are still within easy reach of Hong Kong's main business centres, thanks to efficient ferry services. This effect may accelerate if the more popular Cheung Chau prices itself beyond the reach of the middle-income groups. Peng Chau has several well-established (but latterly struggling) industries situated at the north-western end of the township, including match, furniture, and metal-tube factories. A luxury yacht builder has also recenty become established in this area. Perhaps of more interest to the visitor are the ornamental porcelain processing works of which Peng Chau boasts two. The current vogue for 'orientana' has given this trade a boost the attractive products proving popular with tourists. The island serves as a base for numerous fishing boats and some farming is also carried on. Those areas on both arms of the "C" facing north are sparsely populated and are seldom used for agriculture; virtually all of the island's cultivation is carried out on suitably low-lying areas, facing south. The town retains much of its old world atmosphere, but modern twostorey concrete houses are rapidly taking over from the traditional Chinese village-type house. There are several temples in honour of the deities Tin Hau and Hung Shing but none are of exceptional interest A walk around either arm of the island can be a pleasant and interesting experience. Worthy of note is Yuen Ling Chai where the Peng Chau Rural Committee have established a comprehensive play and recreation centre and have beautified the surrounding hillock with many flowering shrubs and trees. The main recreational beach at Tung Wan has good facilities, including row boats for hire, but is not recommended for bathing, since the shallow water is not very clean. The younger, more adventurous visitor may well find small 11
coves and beaches suitable for swimming, but in general this area is more renowned for fishing, picnicking, photographic outings (the fish market is popular) and general sight-seeing! Peng Chau also forms an essential "link" in any trip between Hong Kong and the adjacent Lantau coastline. Regular ferries ply between the island and the Trappist Haven jetty (which is a good starting-point for visits into the surrounding countryside) and "kai-dos" may be hired to visit such magnificent beaches as Nim Shue Wan or Tai Pak. It should also be noted that for its seafood alone Peng Chau is well worth the trip. Well served by the local fishermen the island's restaurants can offer fresh seafood delicacies at prices cheaper than those in most other areas of Hong Kong. LAM MA ISLAND or Pok Liu Chau, is 13 square kilometres (5 square miles) in area and is the third largest island after Lantau (140 square kilometres) and Hong Kong Island (75 square kilometres). Lamma is very mountainous, with an irregular coastline and is nearly divided in two at Lo So Shing, in the centre. It is often described as the last unspoiled outpost of Hong Kong. It is even less developed than Lantau, has no motor traffic or roads, and has a population of little more than 5,000 people. Most of these are concentrated in the northern half which is less rugged, has more cultivated land, and is within easier commuting distance from Hong Kong Island Aberdeen is less than 3 kilometres distant. The scheduled ferry service to Lamma runs from Outlying Islands Ferry Pier on Connaught Road Central, but a "kai~do" may be engaged from Aberdeen at any time. The main population centre is at Yung Shue Wan, which in recent years has become not only a haven for trippers, but also an attraction for those who find the spiralling price of accommodation in Hong Kong beyond their reach. Around the original village areas is growing a sprinkling of modern residential and holiday homes, which are only 45 minutes by ferry from Hong Kong. From Yung Shue Wan there are excellent surfaced paths, one leading south to Hung Shing Ye (about 45 minutes walk) where an excellent bathing beach is managed by the Urban Services Department. During the cooler months the walk to Sok Kwu Wan (Picnic Bay) is pleasant and not too strenuous less than four kilometres (2{ miles). The return ferry to Outlying Islands Ferry Pier may be picked up here; and there are several excellent seafood restaurants lining the Sok Kwu Wan waterfront. Another supervised beach is operated at Lo So Shing, which may be easily reached in about 20 minutes from Sok Kwu Wan Pier by a concrete footpath which leads across the narrow saddle of the island. The beach is excellent for bathing. For picnicking, the eastern beach on the Sok Kwu Wan (Picnic Bay) side of the saddle is popular. It has barbecue facilities 12
uniquely situated under a pavilion erected on a rock projecting from the shore. "Kai-dos" operate from Sok Kwu Wan to Mo Tat Wan Village, which is also connected by a recently completed concrete path. Here the day may be spent in completely rural surroundings; or visitors may choose to walk further to the isolated beaches at Shek Pai Wan and Sham Wan f which are quite remote. Bicycles are sometimes available on hire at the two main centres and the well paved pathways make excellent cycle tracks. Bicyclists are reminded to treat the walkers with due respect when passing. Rugged Mount Stenhouse rises sheer from the sea, exhibiting large rocky outcrops, especially on its southern faces. The climb to the peak (about 353 metres or 1,160 feet) is strenuous and should only be attempted in good weather; but the view, solitude, and fresh air is said to make the trip well worth the effort. Luk Chau Wan is very popular with the pleasure boating fraternity, especially those from the adjacent mooring area in Aberdeen Channel who frequently go water-skiing in the calm waters of the bay. During 1972-73 there was much controversy between developers, conservationists, and the commercial sector over the allocation of most of Lamma's northern area for an oil refinery. The issue was never finally settled, and the economic recession of 1974 saw the withdrawal of the proposals by the companies concerned. MA WAN The last off-shore island on our map is tiny Ma Wan, situated off the northeastern tip of Lantau. Although almost identical in size with Peng Chau (90 hectares; 0.35 square mile) it has only one quarter of the population (1,000 people) and so far, in spite of convenient ferry and "kai-do" services, it has attracted little migration of urban dwellers. During the Ching Dynasty (1644 A.D.-1911 A.D.) Ma Wan was known as the "Gate to Kowloon" and was a customs collecting point for foreign ships entering Chinese waters. Today it is served both by the Yaumati ferries (on the Tai 0 route) from the Outlying Islands Ferry Pier, and by regularly scheduled "kai-dos" from the public pier at milestone 13 on the Castle Peak Road near Sham Tseng, where there is a car park. The island is much less rugged than most areas of Hong Kong, the highest point rising to only 67 metres (220 feet). It is well wooded, being covered to a large extent by mature trees and judging by the appearance of its farmland, is very fertile. The two main beaches at Tung Wan and Tung Wan Tsai are justly popular, although the latter is liable to be rather littered. The water is remarkably clean considering the proximity of the main urban area. To 13
reach either beach entails a pleasant walk (about half a mile or one kilometre) from the main ferry pier. There is a choice of two surfaced paths, which lead directly across the island. Bathing from other beaches may also be possible, but the northern shore is rather polluted and the western shore, facing toward Lantau, fronts the notorious Kap Shui Mun ("rapid water gate") where currents of up to 5 to 6 knots make bathing extremely hazardous. This rapid tidal race forms a fascinating spectacle especially when ferries and other vessels can be observed berthing at the pier under conditions which tax the seamanship and skill of their coxswains. The pirate Cheung Po-tsai also figures in the history of this island, and local legend has it that a treasure junk sunk by the notorious brigand lies at the bottom of Kap Shui Mun. But salvage has always proved impossible due to the strength of the currents. It is still possible to see sailing junks mainly from the People's Republic of China attempting to negotiate these waters. When wind and tide work in concert, most impressive progress is made; but when they are in opposition the current usually wins. In such cases, the captain of the junk invariably chooses to anchor until the turn of the tide. A good vantage point to watch this manoeuvring is from the lighthouse, barely 200 metres (200 yards) from the ferry pier. The town of Ma Wan has little of especial interest; it is a typical small fishing port slowly adjusting to the bustle of modern Hong Kong. It does boast a long established vacuum-flask factory, and more recently a modern construction yard for pleasure yachts was set up in the area. These installations offer about the only form of regular industrial work. Otherwise the community is dependant upon farming, fishing and traditional cottage industries such as plastic flower assembling. One such industry which makes a solid impact upon the unwary visitor is the preparation of shrimp paste, for which the island is held in high repute. The all-pervading odour from shallow trays of mashed shrimp mixture drying in the sun, in virtually every available scrap of vacant space, can prove rather overpowering. But the final product is said to be delicious. There have been several schemes for the development of Ma Wan, ranging from luxury resort centres, recreational projects, and suburban dormitory areas to an exclusive golf club. Whether any of these schemes will eventuate is debatable, but all are a far cry from the Ma Wan pirates of 100 years ago. Meanwhile, this remarkably undeveloped and peaceful island remains for the convenient and cheap enjoyment of all. 14
MAP NOTES Depending upon the amount of detail to be shown and the space available, various map scales have been used in this publication. Users should be careful to note the relevant scale when calculating the distance to travel. Metric units are used throughout although the horizontal graphic scales do show imperial units as well to assist those who are yet unused to the metric system. To convert metres to feet multiply by 3.2808 (or roughly times 3 ). The symbols shown in the index to the main map are common to all maps but it should be noted that the contour interval used for Ma Wan, Peng Chau and Cheung Chau is 10m. whereas ail other maps are at 20m. interval. The amenity symbols placed on the face of the maps indicate where such features or facilities are known to exist. There are, of course, many more places suitable for picnicking and swimming, but without facilities such as litter bins, barbecue pits, tables and seats; and most unsupervised beaches are without lifeguards, changing tents, latrines, etc. Footpaths are shown as MAJOR or.minor. In this context MAJOR PATH indicates a popular route, easily walked without scrambling and usually well defined and maintained. MINOR PATH indicates a less popular, less frequented route which may be steep, narrow or rough, and ill-defined in parts. Other minor paths exist too small or unimportant to show here. Larger scale maps which may show these are available from the Lands and Survey Department. The condition of unsurfaced paths will of course, vary from season to season and according to the amount they are used. Where it is considered that passage may at times be difficult due to overgrown vegetation, or where a path is very steep or poorly defined, the maps show a broken line. The majority of the major routes have been physically checked-on the ground, all others have been selected by careful study of the most recent air photography. Grading by this method is not always certain and in general, doubtful paths have been allotted minor grading. Users noting errors or omissions in this, or any other aspect of the maps are encouraged to bring such to the attention of the Lands and Survey Department P.W.D., Murray Building, Hong Kong telephone 5-251111 ext. 2481-3. Copies of any map sent to this office annotating such errors will be replaced. The indication of a road, track or path on these maps is no guarantee of a right-of-way. Where vehicular access is restricted the route is marked 'R'; this usually applies to Waterworks and Forestry roads. However pedestrian access is usually not restricted. 15
Bus and ferry information is correct at the time of publication but is, of course, subject to alteration. The two previous sheets published in Countryside Series are: Sheet 1 Hong Kong Island Sheet 2 New Territories West Prepared and published by Lands 8- Survey Department P.W.D. i 1st Edition March 1976. 2nd Edition May 1977. 16