RED-NOSE RIDING. Pedalling the Bike Trails of Central Otago in Winter

RED-NOSE RIDING Pedalling the Bike Trails of Central Otago in Winter The Otago Rail Trail. The Roxburgh Gorge Trail. The Clutha Gold Trail. June 29 July 5 2015

Contents 1 Introduction 3 Map of the Otago Rail Trail 5 The Otago Rail Trail Day One: Middlemarch to Waipiata (53 kms) 9 The Otago Rail Trail Day Two: Waipiata to Wedderburn (22kms) 11 The Otago Rail Trail Day Three: Wedderburn to Ophir (46kms) 15 The Rail Trail Day Four: Ophir to Clyde (40 kms) 17 The Central Otago Railway and the Otago Rail Trail A Brief History 19 The Roxburgh Gorge Trail 23 Clutha Gold Trail - Day One: - Roxburgh Hydro to Roxburgh Township (9kms) 25 Clutha Gold Trail Day Two 26 The Clutha Gold Trail Day Three: Beaumont to Lawrence (20 kms) 28 David s Photos of the Rail Trail, the Gorge and the Gold Trails 32 One Day in Dunedin 33 Red-Nose : The Riders Reflect

Red-Nose Introduction There were four of us on this trip. David Harrop and I on the Rail Trail with Dave Paul, then Paul Maher with David and me on the Roxburgh Gorge and Clutha Gold trails. We d all done the Rail trail at least once before, and always in Summer. Having seen photos of the hoar frosts and snowy peaks of the area in Winter, we decided to layer up and ride the trails when the temperature was somewhere round zero. Trail Journeys organised the bikes, the accommodation and the boat hire: Lynley was patient and efficient and we will use them on our next trip south. The week before we flew down to Otago, a southerly storm roared up the country, layering even the coastal flats in white, coating the roads in black ice and dropping the temperatures to near record lows minus 21 degrees C near Mount Cook. Lowest temperature on record is minus 25 C recorded in Ranfurly (a town on the Rail Trail) in 1903. So, on a Sunday afternoon in June, Dave collected David and me from Taieri Airport outside Dunedin and drove us the 50 kms to Middlemarch and the start of the Rail Trail. Snow on the Rock and Pillar Ranges above the town, chilly air, restless, low, dark clouds. It rained noisily all night, was still raining at 8.30 when we collected our bikes from the Trail Journeys Base, loaded our gear and pedalled along deserted streets into the murk, a fierce wind over our left shoulders. We were on our way! Ted Berry Takapuna July, 2015 The Riders Fig. 2 Paul, David and I outside the Clyde Trail Journeys Depot at the start of the Roxburgh Gorge Fig. 1 David, Dave and I outside the Middlemarch depot at the beginning of the Rail Trail. Red-Nose 1

Map of the Otago Rail Trail Fig. 3 We started at Middlemarch, bottom right and finished at Clyde. The route of the trail means that if a steady wind is blowing, you are bound to get it in your face at some stage. We had a strong wind from the west (from the left) for the first two days to Wedderburn. Fig. 4 Rail Trail clearly indicated. The thicker, red, hand- drawn line is the route of the Roxburgh Gorge and the Clutha Gold trails: the latter finishes at Lawrence 4 Red-Nose

Fig. 5 Middlemarch Station - the end of the train line from Dunedin through the Taieri Gorge, and the start of the Otago Trail, a couple of hundred metres beyond the station. About 75% of riders begin the trek from Clyde, as the winds tend to blow from this direction. Red-Nose 3

Chapter 2 The Otago Rail Trail Day One: Middlemarch to Waipiata (53 kms) Fig. 6 We stayed the night in the Strath Taieri Hotel. Accommodation basic ($60) but the dinner plates laden and the locals chatty. Fig. 7 Middlemarch, a place of wide streets, all deserted. The 300 residents were, wisely, huddled round their home fires or having cake and coffee, like us, in the cosy interior of the Kissing Gate Cafe. Fig. 8 David all ready to ride. Fig. 9 Dave dressed for the drumming rain and buffeting wind. 4 Red-Nose

The Otago Rail Trail Day One: Middlemarch to Waipiata (53 kms) Fig. 10 Five kms out of Middlemarch. The rain has stopped but the track is soft mud and makes for slow riding. Locals later told us that the frosts first harden the track then, after the thaw, the ground softens and crumbles. Several locals also asked us Why are you doing the trail at this time of year? Fig. 11 Behind Dave, just over the bridge, is Straw Cutting, the scene, on June 4, 1943, of New Zealand s then worst railway tragedy. 21 died and 46 were injured when the drunk driver went to sleep and let the train speed along this stretch before entering the curving cutting at well over 100 kph instead of the recommended 48 kph. He was imprisoned for manslaughter. Fig. 12 Dave, on left, riding into Hyde, 27 kms from Middlemarch and in Summer, crowded with riders. Today, Hyde is closed. We drink icy water instead of frothy, hot, revitalising coffee. Fig. 12 The Otago Central Rail Trail - Elevation and Distances 6 Red-Nose

The Otago Rail Trail Day One: Middlemarch to Waipiata (53 kms) Fig. 13 Beyond Hyde, we climb up the gorge of the Taieri River as the track swings gradually to the West and into the wind. Here is David just before the first tunnel of the trip and with Taieri River below him... Landscapes of the Upper Taieri Gorge Fig. 14 Upper Taieri Gorge Fig. 15 Upper Taieri Gorge Red-Nose 7

The Otago Rail Trail Day One: Middlemarch to Waipiata (53 kms) Fig. 16 The last ten kms into Waipiata were a tough grind over a slushy track, uphill and into a whipping wind. It took us 7 hours to cover the 53 kms from Middlemarch, a crawl I would have scoffed at before the trip. We relished those first beers in Waipiata!! Speights, of course! 8 Red-Nose

Chapter 3 The Otago Rail Trail Day Two: Waipiata to Wedderburn (22kms) Fig. 17 Graeme Sydney painting of the old station at Waipiata, now, like most of the stations on the line, demolished, leaving only the old platform. Fig. 18 In front of the Waipiata Hotel with Mark, the owner. He s an entrepreneurial accountant with great ideas for expanding his newly acquired hotel. The rooms were stylishly decorated, the bathrooms modern, the meals of top quality. There has been a heavy frost overnight, the wind has gone and the track is hard. On this trail we are carrying all our gear as there is no luggage transportation service in Winter. Red-Nose 9

The Otago Rail Trail Day Two: Waipiata to Wedderburn (22kms) Fig. 19 Inspiring riding for the first few kms - expansive views of the Kakanui Mountains across the Maniototo Plains. The wind woke up and blew in our faces the last three kms into Ranfurly. Fig. 20 With only 13kms to Wedderburn from Ranfurly, we lingered in town, enjoying the warmth of the cafe, the chat of the locals, the toasted cheese rolls. We pedalled on into the gale just after two. Fig. 21 The road steepened, the wind screeched, the track melted and the last few kms into Wedderburn were tough riding, forcing us to get off and push uphill at times. Fig. 22 A welcome sight after a ludicrously slow trip from Ranfurly 13 kms in two and a half hours! 10 Red-Nose

Chapter 4 The Otago Rail Trail Day Three: Wedderburn to Ophir (46kms) Fig. 23 Yesterday, riding on some parts of the track felt like pedalling through sand. Today we take to the road for the few kms uphill, then down to Oturehua. Great decision. Thanks, Trail Journeys, for the suggestion! The 12 kms over the hill took us 40 minutes riding. Yesterday, the same distance took us two hours, 40 minutes! Fig. 24 Highest point of the Rail Trail - the top of Rough Ridge, 680m. From here we had a glorious glide down to Oturehua. Fig. 25 Today, the trail is downhill, the wind is asleep and the surface, even here where it is frozen and snow-spattered, makes for faster riding. Red-Nose 11

The Otago Rail Trail Day Three: Wedderburn to Ophir (46kms) Fig. 26 The Ida Valley. Calm, peaceful, reek of sileage, deserted. Crisp air. Dribbling noses. Fig. 27 The Poolburn Viaduct at the top of the Poolburn Gorge. Built 1901-1903. Fig. 29 David in Poolburn Tunnel Number One, built mainly by Chinese workers who lived in crude stone huts on the slopes of the Gorge. Fig. 28 The trail down the Gorge was hacked out mainly with pick and shovel. The labourers had to provide their own! Fig. 30 The trail down the Poolburn Gorge. 12 Red-Nose

The Otago Rail Trail Day Three: Wedderburn to Ophir (46kms) Fig. 31 The bridge over the Manuherikia River at the bottom of the Poolburn Gorge. Fig. 32 Outside the Lauder pub with the owner, Vicki. Business is quiet in Winter but in Summer she regularly has 30 for dinner each night. Fig. 33 Dave, with Rhonda, the manager of the Muddy Creek Cafe, Omakau. She will feature in Boundaries written by Brian Turner. Like most of the people we met, Rhonda was warm, funny and welcoming. Red-Nose 13

Fig. 34 Blacks Hotel, Ophir, our home for the night. Ophir is two kms from Omakau and so missed out on the benefits of being on the railway line. Originally a gold town (1862) it is now a quiet backwater with beautifully preserved old structures and wide, deserted streets. 14 Red-Nose

Chapter 5 The Rail Trail Day Four: Ophir to Clyde (40 kms) Fig. 35 John, our host for the night. He and his wife, Debbie were superb hosts -turned on our heaters, covered our bikes from the frost, let us use their private lounge. Fig. 36 A frosty morning in Ophir, looking across to the Dunstan Mountains. Another perfect, sharp, calm morning. Fig. 37 Ophir s main street, Post Office (1886),centre, jail behind. Red-Nose 15

The Rail Trail Day Four: Ophir to Clyde (40 kms) Fig. 38 Zooming down Tiger Hill, the steepest slope of the Trail, in a temperature of minus four was exhilirating but numbing, even painful on the nose, mouth and throat. Fig. 39 Gentler countryside near Alexandra. The kilometre posts start at Wingatui (0), pass through Middlemarch (64), Alexandra (207) and end at Clyde (215) Fig. 40 Another friendly local, this time, Hilda from Alexandra. Born in Bannockburn, lived in Alex for ages she stopped to chat as we enjoyed a coffee at the tin goose cafe (sic). Fig. 41 Olivers, Clyde, at night. We had a drink in the bar of this classy restaurant and dined more modestly on sausages and mash in the Dunstan Hotel across the road. 16 Red-Nose

Chapter 6 The Central Otago Railway and the Otago Rail Trail A Brief History The Railway The route chosen was one of seven submitted to the Government in 1877 and was chosen because it opened up the greatest area of arable land.. It was also supposed to present the least number of engineering problems! Contruction began in 1879 at Wingatui, just outside Dunedin In 1871, the track reached Middlemarch, 64 kms from Wingatui The track reached Clyde in 1907 and to Cromwell in 1921 In its heyday, the railway carried 4 thousand tons of fruit a year out of Central. In 1960 half a million sheep were transported along the railway. Fig. 42 1953. A train passing through Hyde, the hotel in the background The Otago Rail Trail After the decision was made to close the railway, the Dunedin City Council purchased the line as far as Middlemarch and designated it a scenic railway route. At the same time the rails and sleepers were lifted on the line from Middlemarch to Clyde. 1993. After intense public debate, DOC took over the line between Daisybank and Hyde and designated it a walking, horse-riding, cycling route. It was immediately popular! 2000. Further intense debate. The Clyde Fig. 43 A similar perspective of the Rail trail Middlemarch section was opened as a trail. Bridges were provided, the surface was gravelled and graded and small information sheds were erected. All possible because of volunteers and many generous donations. Red-Nose 17

Fig. 44 This trail was opened in October, 2013. It runs from Clyde to the Roxburgh Hydro and the middle section must be negotiated by boat (13 kms) The total distance is 45 kms if you take the direct route from Clyde and 51 if you take the (recommended) river route, more scenic, more challenging from Clyde. 18 Red-Nose

Chapter 7 The Roxburgh Gorge Trail Fig. 45 Dave had driven back to Christchurch for his son, Angus s parent teacher meeting and we were joined in Clyde by Paul Maher who had flown from Auckland to Queenstown the night before. Here are Paul and David with Lynley from Trail Journeys. Fig. 46 The trail from Clyde to Alexander is flat and straight but from the bridge at Alex, the trail suddenly becomes interesting and you very quickly leave behind the suburban blandness of Alexandra. Fig. 47 Treeless, schist slopes, a 2.5 m wide and beautifully engineered track. The Clutha flowing into Lake Roxburgh. Remnants of miners huts, of sluicing claims. Red-Nose 19

The Roxburgh Gorge Trail Fig. 48 Nil Desperandum Bluff. This river was lined in the 1860s with miners who lived a life of hardship and hunger and cold. Fig. 50 Chinese miners lived for years under rocks like this one. A very harsh existence. No food or firewood. Treated with contempt by the locals, slim chance of making money. Fig. 49 The Narrows a steep, switchback section with a scary drop in all sections. Fig. 51 Every miner s dream. A genuine, massive gold nugget. Fig. 52 David and Paul with the genial and informative Dave, our guide on the boating section of the trail. 20 Red-Nose

The Roxburgh Gorge Trail Fig. 53 Doctor s Point, embarkation jetty for the jet- boat. In the background, evidence of sluicing, small huts, water races. Fig. 54 Lunch stop. Track on far cliff, Hydro round the far hills. We much admired those with the vision for this track and for those who made it happen. Fig. 55 The steepest swithbacks were in the final few metres of the Trail. Beautifully engineered, they were daunting but easily rideable. Fig. 56 The end of the Trail - the huge Roxburgh Hydro, completed in 1956. The Clutha Gold Trail begins just below the dam. Red-Nose 21

Fig. 57 The Gold Trail runs from the Roxburgh Hydro to Lawrence, a distance of 73 kms. The only real climb is near the end on Big Hill towards the tunnel. The Trail was opened in October 2013 by John Key, and was the end result of eight years of lobbying, fund-raising, hard work over thousands of hours by many volunteers. It is a delightful cruise alongside the Clutha through increasingly benign countryside as the Central tor country becomes lower farmland. 22 Red-Nose

Chapter 8 Clutha Gold Trail - Day One: - Roxburgh Hydro to Roxburgh Township (9kms) Fig. 58 We carried on into the afternoon after completing the Gorge Trail. From the Hydro it is only 9 kms into Roxburgh where we stayed the night in the Roxburgh Motel. This short ride was an easy roll along the banks of the rumbling Clutha. No wind, downhill, a ride to savour. Fig. 59 David and Paul in the Grand Hotel, Roxburgh with two witty Irish young men (both named Jack) from Munster, visiting their uncle in the town. Fig 60 The Clutha from the bridge to the town. From Roxburgh Dam to Beaumont, we were never more than a few metres away from the mighty Mata- au (surface current and the Maori name for the Clutha) Red-Nose 23

Clutha Gold Trail - Day One: - Roxburgh Hydro to Roxburgh Township (9kms) Fig. 61 Roxburgh main street, early morning. Old Man Range in distance. Hotel now a B&B. Fig. 62 Much of today s riding was like this. Fairly gently up and down and lots of corners to keep you alert. Fig. 63 The lads looking staunch outside the 4 Square at Millers Flat, 20 kms from Roxburgh. Fig. 64 The only gold dredge left on the Clutha. At one time there were 42 dredges scraping riches from the bed of this golden river. Fig. 65 Especially after we entered the Beaumont Gorge, the sludgy banks had slipped more and more over the trail. Most of the banks are loose dredge 24 Red-Nose

Chapter 9 Clutha Gold Trail Day Two Fig. 66 In the Beaumont Gorge on an old railway bridge over the Tallaburn. The railway from Milton to Roxburgh was closed in 1968 and the Gold trail at times follows its track but not as completely as the Otago Rail trail. All day we had a friendly wind pushing us firmly along. It was better than finding a $20 note fluttering across the trail! Fig. 67 Gunne, centre, is from Iceland and leases the Beaumont Hotel with his wife, Alison a kiwi whom he met in Iceland. Their hospitality was excellent. Red-Nose Fig. 68 Great timing! Beaumont, a perfect place to watch the final of the Super 15 Rugby Championship. Better still! The local team, the Highlanders, won in a zippy and fast moving game. 25

Chapter 10 The Clutha Gold Trail Day Three: Beaumont to Lawrence (20 kms) Fig. 69 The Beaumont Hotel, early morning. There has been a hotel on this site since 1870 and the Gold Trail is very likely to generate huge interest in Beaumont as a stop-over. Fig. 70 It s a sharp climb up to the BigHill Tunnel, built in 1911 12. The sharp bends and the steep climbs were prime reasons for the line being declared in the 1930s fit only for goods, and not for passenger traffic. Fig. 71 The Big Hill tunnel, 440 metres long and lined with concrete. The Rail Trail tunnels are lined with bricks and schist. 26 Red-Nose

The Clutha Gold Trail Day Three: Beaumont to Lawrence (20 kms) Fig. 72 Evans Flat, just outside Lawrence and close to Gabriels Gully where SEVENTEEN TONS of gold were dug up in the 18 months after the rush in 1861-62. Fig. 73 Site of the Chinese mining settlement just outside Lawrence. Now the terrain is lower and the vegetation more extensive. Fig. 74 End of the Trail - Lawrence, once the centre of a huge gold mining area after Gabriel Read discovered gold here in 1861. Here are David and Paul outside the Coffee Mine Cafe where we left the bikes to be collected by Trail Journeys and from where we boarded the bus for Dunedin. Paul caught a plane home and David and I stayed for a day to explore the city, to which I am firmly attached after spending the first couple of decades of my life there. Red-Nose

Chapter 11 David s Photos of the Rail Trail, the Gorge and the Gold Trails Fig. 75 Quiet, deserted, bleak Middlemarch, the the Rock and Pillar Range behind the town. Good luck for the trip, said Glenda at the Trail Journeys Depot, but I wouldn t like to be riding in this weather! Fig. 76 Ted on the trail in the Upper Gorge of the Taieri River. In Middlemarch they told us that the westerly wind always brought freezing weather but here we were, for the moment, sheltered. Fig. 77 As everyone knows: what happens on tor, stays on tor. 28 Red-Nose

David s Photos of the Rail Trail, the Gorge and the Gold Trails Fig. 78 Ideal riding near Alexandra - a level trail with a hard surface, the fragrance of sage, a gentle breeze at our backs. Fig. 80 Ted, outside the Alexandra Museum, with Hilda, long-time local who stopped to chat. Fig. 79 After riding through mud, it was like releasing the brakes to ride on the smooth wooden surface of a bridge. Red-Nose

David s Photos of the Rail Trail, the Gorge and the Gold Trails Fig. 81 The Roxburgh Gorge where the cliffs rise steeply to 350 m above the lake. The original river level was about 30 m below the present lake surface. Fig. 83 A section at the Narrows, where the track is skinny and zig-zags down a sharply inclined bank. Fig. 82 At times, it was so cold that the hoar frost settled on Ted s face, like a whispy beard. Paul preferred not to look. Fig. 84 The Gold Trail approaching Beaumont: now there are Willows, Sycamore, Poplar, Kanuka along the banks as the terrain lowers. 30 Red-Nose

David s Photos of the Rail Trail, the Gorge and the Gold Trails Fig. 85 Ted moaning outside the entrance to the Big Hill Tunnel because it has been a steep climb and his bum was sore. Fig. 86 Near Lawrence and the end of the Gold Trail. Now we are in farmland, only a few kms from the arid tor country of Central Otago. Fig. 87 Waiting for the bus to Dunedin outside the Coffee Mine Cafe in Lawrence. The cafe is for sale. Owner Jenny said: You serve only ten years for murder. I have already served eleven years in this place and it s past time to move on! Red-Nose 31

Chapter 12 One Day in Dunedin Fig. 88 David and I spent one day in Dunedin after the trip. Fortuitously for us, it was the day of a big parade to welcome the Highlanders after their win in the Super 15 Rugby Championships. Fig. 89 Some of the thousands in the main street. Fig. 90 We bussed out to Andersons Bay, where Ted spent his youth... Fig. 92 Dunedin welcomed David by naming a street after him!! Fig. 91 Dunedin s central Exchange, photo taken when Ted was a boy. Our hotel is on the right, a little way up the street. 32 Red-Nose

Chapter 13 Red-Nose : The Riders Reflect Ted The Trip Overall I loved the whole experience, even when the legs were begging for a rest and the wind was bullying us, as it did on the first two days of the Rail Trail. I love this part of the country it s a world so different: quiet, expansive, scenic, every corner with a bit of history, the locals direct and engaging and a bit amused at finding those of us from Auckland so enthusiastic about their patch. The Knapps, owners of Blacks Hotel in Ophir offering us their private lounge, covering our bikes from the frost, turning on our electric blankets, all of this quietly done because we were their guests and they wanted us to have the best memory of our stay with them. Dear Hilda in Alex, stopping to chat as we sat outside the tin goose cafe to ask about our trip, to tell us of her career as a WREN in Auckland. She was looking forward so much to a dinner party that night with the RSL and hoped she might see us again. There were many more like Hilda, and John and Debbie Knapp. A trip like this where you use your route finding skills, your muscle power to reach the destination each day, a trip where you travel with friends, enjoy their company on the road, over a beer, at dinner: a trip like this sticks in the mind, grows as you look back. I love the daily sense of purpose, love the twanging muscles, love the surprises round each corner, love the companionship. Thanks, guys! Fig. 93 Ted in the Upper Taieri Gorge. The Rail Trail in Winter We did the trip expecting snowy vistas, hoar frost and icy ponds. We also got the clearest, crispest mornings when the grass was white and the track like rock, still afternoons when the Hawdun Range glistened silver white across the plain. On a Winter ride, you are also likely to experience - A gluggy surface, often with wind-blown branches and fallen rocks to dodge. The section from Middlemarch to Wedderburn is not as generously gravelled and can be hard riding. Strong winds from the westerly quarter. Going uphill, on a glutinous surface, into the wind can seriously slow progress. A more heavily loaded bike. Because many services are shut, Trail Journeys don t offer a bag transport link between your nightly stop-overs. Shorter days. In July, sunrise is at 0815 and sunrise is 1715. In Summer you get six more hours of daylight. More services to be shut for the winter. Red-Nose 33

Red-Nose : The Riders Reflect Roxburgh Gorge and Gold Trails Loved them both and would ride them, and probably will, again. The Gorge is a stunning landscape. Half a km round the corner from Alexandra and you are in lunar territory, treeless, schist slopes across which some engineering genius has crafted a wide, safe track with long perspectives. And there s always the tang of sage in your nostrils. The track is in two sections with an enforced boat ride in the middle (the landowner refuses to let a track be built on his patch) but the boat trip, costing $95 and about which expense there is much sniffy comment on-line, is a delight Dave, the driver is so informative, will take you across the river several times to view cottages, rock formations, water races... The bonus was a high speed 360 turn which drenched Paul and caused David to slither unintentionally from the port to the starboard side of the boat until he bumped into Paul. I laughed hysterically for minutes at the shock and surprise and the man, I wasn t expecting that look on their faces. The Gold Trail is easier riding; and the terrain, always downhill, becomes gentler farmland as you near Lawrence. Because it follows the river and not the road, you get a fresh perspective on the area thati have traversed in a car so many times. Loved the historical information boards, the Beaumont Hotel, the shop at Millers Flat, the twisty curves of the track, the excellent surface. Watching the Highlanders win the Super 15 with an audience of Beaumont locals was cream on the cake! Paul My involvement was a cameo appearance after the hard yards had been done by the real cyclists. 1. The quick sprint from Hyde to Alexandra on a frosty morning.a great start.the breakaway lead by David who cleared out from the peloton of two. 2. Ride from Alexandra along side the mighty Clutha to meet Dave, the jet boat skipper.a true blue kiwi who thrives on his job and loves his environment. A 360 in the boat which made Ted s day. 3. The ride with a few S bends to the dam, with the river merging into the lake. 4. A pub meal at Roxburgh. Met a couple of engaging young Irishmen. 5. Coffee at Millers Flat. Depressing war memorial. 6. Rugby at Beaumont on finals night in Highlander territory.icelandic host. Great old hotel. 7. An enjoyable ride in different terrain to Lawrence on Sunday morning coming down. 8. A stroll around Dunedin CBD, with a live commentary from an old Dunedin identity. All in all,a great 3 days in superb countryside. Good weather and a couple of reasonable companions. Thanks for the organisation Ted. Fig. 94 Paul 34 Red-Nose

David Red-Nose : The Riders Reflect Yes, all of Paul s well- described moments, plus a few others - The brilliant drive from the airport to Middlemarch - great scenery, particularly the Tor country. Comfortable and welcoming pubs and hotels - Middlemarch, Waipiata,Wedderburn, Lauder, Ophir, Clyde, Roxbugh, Beaumont, Speights Ale House Dunedin. Interesting and lively conversations with the locals in the pubs. Particularly some of the discussions that DGP somehow got us into. Interesting cafes with good coffee and again welcoming and friendly local people. The first two days of really hard yakka - but satisfying and enjoyable, especially but not exclusively in retrospect. Fig. 95 David The revelation in the following three days of how enjoyable cycling on the level or even slightly downhill can be - particularly the realisation that Tiger Hill actually had a downhill. The contrast as we moved from the more open country of the rail trail to the gorge and river tracks of the Roxbugh and Clutha. Some of the exhilarating - and at times a little scary - narrow descents along the Roxbugh. Dave Thanks again for organising the part of the Rail Trail I did with you and David. I loved it. It lived up to my expectations. I will keep up with the exercise and clear benefits it provides...and not let it slip as much as I had...at least that is my intention. I trust you David and Paul relished the Clutha-Lawrence cycle way. The rugby. What a beauty! My trip to ChCh.via Cromwell, Lindis Pass, MacKenzie Basin was spectacular. Snow and sunshine everywhere. I hope you all enjoyed your day in Dunedin. Thank you again for your assistance and generosity. Fig. 96 Dave Red-Nose 35

Images Fig. 1 David, Dave and I outside the Middlemarch depot at the beginning of the Rail Trail. 1 Fig. 2 Paul, David and I outside the Clyde Trail Journeys Depot at the start of the Roxburgh Gorge and Clutha Gold trails 1 Fig. 3 We started at Middlemarch, bottom right and finished at Clyde. The route of the trail means that if a steady wind is blowing, you are bound to get it in your face at some stage. We had a strong wind from the west (from the left) for the first two days to Wedderburn. 3 Fig. 4 Rail Trail clearly indicated. The thicker, red, hand-drawn line is the route of the Roxburgh Gorge and the Clutha Gold trails: the latter finishes at Lawrence. 3 Fig. 5 Middlemarch Station - the end of the train line from Dunedin through the Taieri Gorge, and the start of the Otago Trail, a couple of hundred metres beyond the station. About 75% of riders begin the trek from Clyde, as the winds tend to blow from this direction. 4 Fig. 6 We stayed the night in the Strath Taieri Hotel. Accommodation basic ($60) but the dinner plates laden and the locals chatty. 5 Fig. 7 Middlemarch, a place of wide streets, all deserted. The 300 residents were, wisely, huddled round their home fires or having cake and coffee, like us, in the cosy interior of the Kissing Gate Cafe. 5 Fig. 8 David all ready to ride. 5 Fig. 9 Dave dressed for the drumming rain and buffeting wind. 5 Fig. 10 Five kms out of Middlemarch. The rain has stopped but the track is soft mud and makes for slow riding. Locals later told us that the frosts first harden the track then, after the thaw, the ground softens and crumbles. Several locals also asked us Why are you doing the trail at this time of year? 6 Fig. 11 Behind Dave, just over the bridge, is Straw Cutting, the scene, on June 4, 1943, of New Zealand s then worst railway tragedy. 21 died and 46 were injured when the drunk driver went to sleep and let the train speed along this stretch before entering the curving cutting at well over 100 kph instead of the recommended 48 kph. He was imprisoned for manslaughter. 6 Fig. 12 Dave, on left, riding into Hyde, 27 kms from Middlemarch and in Summer, crowded with riders. Today, Hyde is closed. We drink icy water instead of frothy, hot, revitalising coffee. 6 Fig. 12 The Otago Central Rail Trail - Elevation and Distances 6 Fig. 13 Beyond Hyde, we climb up the gorge of the Taieri River as the track swings gradually to the West and into the wind. Here is David just before the first tunnel of the trip and with Taieri River below him... 7 Fig. 14 Upper Taieri Gorge 7 Fig. 15 Upper Taieri Gorge 7 Fig. 16 The last ten kms into Waipiata were a tough grind over a slushy track, uphill and into a whipping wind. It took us 7 hours to cover the 53 kms from Middlemarch, a crawl I would have scoffed at before the trip. We relished those first beers in Waipiata!! Speights, of course! 8 Fig. 17 Graeme Sydney painting of the old station at Waipiata, now, like most of the stations on the line, demolished, leaving only the old platform. 9 Fig. 18 In front of the Waipiata Hotel with Mark, the owner. He s an entrepreneurial accountant with great ideas for expanding his newly acquired hotel. The rooms were stylishly decorated, the bathrooms modern, the meals of top quality. There has been a heavy frost overnight, the wind has gone and the track is hard. On this trail we are carrying all our gear as there is no luggage transportation service in Winter. 9 Fig. 19 Inspiring riding for the first few kms - expansive views of the Kakanui Mountains across the Maniototo Plains. The wind woke up and blew in our faces the last three kms into Ranfurly. 10 Fig. 20 With only 13kms to Wedderburn from Ranfurly, we lingered in town, enjoying the warmth of the cafe, the chat of the locals, the toasted cheese rolls. We pedalled on into the gale just after two. 10 Fig. 21 The road steepened, the wind screeched, the track melted and the last few kms into Wedderburn were tough riding, forcing us to get off and push uphill at times. 10 36 Red-Nose

Images Fig. 22 A welcome sight after a ludicrously slow trip from Ranfurly 13 kms in two and a half hours! 10 Fig. 23 Yesterday, riding on some parts of the track felt like pedalling through sand. Today we take to the road for the few kms uphill, then down to Oturehua. Great decision. Thanks, Trail Journeys, for the suggestion! The 12 kms over the hill took us 40 minutes riding. Yesterday, the same distance took us two hours, 40 minutes! 11 Fig. 24 Highest point of the Rail Trail - the top of Rough Ridge, 680m. From here we had a glorious glide down to Oturehua. 11 Fig. 25 Today, the trail is downhill, the wind is asleep and the surface, even here where it is frozen and snow- spattered, makes for faster riding. 11 Fig. 26 The Ida Valley. Calm, peaceful, reek of sileage, deserted. Crisp air. Dribbling noses. 12 Fig. 27 The Poolburn Viaduct at the top of the Poolburn Gorge. Built 1901-1903. 12 Fig. 28 The trail down the Gorge was hacked out mainly with pick and shovel. The labourers had to provide their own! 12 Fig. 29 David in Poolburn Tunnel Number One, built mainly by Chinese workers who lived in crude stone huts on the slopes of the Gorge. 12 Fig. 30 The trail down the Poolburn Gorge. 12 Fig. 31 The bridge over the Manuherikia River at the bottom of the Poolburn Gorge. 3 Fig. 32 Outside the Lauder pub with the owner, Vicki. Business is quiet in Winter but in Summer she regularly has 30 for dinner each night. 13 Fig. 33 Dave, with Rhonda, the manager of the Muddy Creek Cafe, Omakau. She will feature in Boundaries written by Brian Turner. Like most of the people we met, Rhonda was warm, funny and welcoming. 13 Fig. 34 Blacks Hotel, Ophir, our home for the night. Ophir is two kms from Omakau and so missed out on the benefits of being on the railway line. Originally a gold town (1862) it is now a quiet backwater with beautifully preserved old structures and wide, deserted streets. 14 Fig. 35 John, our host for the night. He and his wife, Debbie were superb hosts -turned on our heaters, covered our bikes from the frost, let us use their private lounge. 15 Fig. 36 A frosty morning in Ophir, looking across to the Dunstan Mountains. Another perfect, sharp, calm morning. 15 Fig. 37 Ophir s main street, Post Office (1886),centre, jail behind. 15 Fig. 38 Zooming down Tiger Hill, the steepest slope of the Trail, in a temperature of minus four was exhilirating but numbing, even painful on the nose, mouth and throat. 16 Fig. 39 Gentler countryside near Alexandra. The kilometre posts start at Wingatui (0), pass through Middlemarch (64), Alexandra (207) and end at Clyde (215) 16 Fig. 40 Another friendly local, this time, Hilda from Alexandra. Born in Bannockburn, lived in Alex for ages she stopped to chat as we enjoyed a coffee at the tin goose cafe (sic). 16 Fig. 41 Olivers, Clyde, at night. We had a drink in the bar of this classy restaurant and dined more modestly on sausages and mash in the Dunstan Hotel across the road. 16 Fig. 42 1953. A train passing through Hyde, the hotel in the background 17 Fig. 43 A similar perspective of the Rail trail in 2015 17 Fig. 44 This trail was opened in October, 2013. It runs from Clyde to the Roxburgh Hydro and the middle section must be negotiated by boat (13 kms) The total distance is 45 kms if you take the direct route from Clyde and 51 if you take the (recommended) river route, more scenic, more challenging from Clyde. 18 Fig. 45 Dave had driven back to Christchurch for his son, Angus s parent teacher meeting and we were joined in Clyde by Paul Maher who had flown from Auckland to Queenstown the night before. Here are Paul and David with Lynley from Trail Journeys. 19 Fig. 46 The trail from Clyde to Alexander is flat and straight but from the bridge at Alex, the trail suddenly becomes interesting and you very quickly leave behind the suburban blandness of Alexandra. 19 Fig. 47 Treeless, schist slopes, a 2.5 m wide and beautifully engineered track. The Clutha flowing into Lake Roxburgh. Remnants of miners huts, of sluicing claims. 19 Red-Nose

Images Fig. 48 Nil Desperandum Bluff. This river was lined in the 1860s with miners who lived a life of hardship and hunger and cold. 20 Fig. 49 The Narrows a steep, switchback section with a scary drop in all sections. 20 Fig. 50 Chinese miners lived for years under rocks like this one. A very harsh existence. No food or firewood. Treated with contempt by the locals, slim chance of making money. 20 Fig. 51 Every miner s dream. A genuine, massive gold nugget. 20 Fig. 52 David and Paul with the genial and informative Dave, our guide on the boating section of the trail. 20 Fig. 53 Doctor s Point, embarkation jetty for the jet-boat. In the background, evidence of sluicing, small huts, water races. 21 Fig. 54 Lunch stop. Track on far cliff, Hydro round the far hills. We much admired those with the vision for this track and for those who made it happen. 21 Fig. 55 The steepest swithbacks were in the final few metres of the Trail. Beautifully engineered, they were daunting but easily rideable. 21 Fig. 56 The end of the Trail - the huge Roxburgh Hydro, completed in 1956. The Clutha Gold Trail begins just below the dam. 21 Fig. 57 The Gold Trail runs from the Roxburgh Hydro to Lawrence, a distance of 73 kms. The only real climb is near the end on Big Hill towards the tunnel. The Trail was opened in October 2013 by John Key, and was the end result of eight years of lobbying, fund-raising, hard work over thousands of hours by many volunteers. It is a delightful cruise alongside the Clutha through increasingly benign countryside as the Central tor country becomes lower farmland. 22 Fig. 58 We carried on into the afternoon after completing the Gorge Trail. From the Hydro it is only 9 kms into Roxburgh where we stayed the night in the Roxburgh Motel. This short ride was an easy roll along the banks of the rumbling Clutha. No wind, downhill, a ride to savour. 23 Fig. 59 David and Paul in the Grand Hotel, Roxburgh with two witty Irish young men (both named Jack) from Munster, visiting their uncle in the town. 23 Fig 60 The Clutha from the bridge to the town. From Roxburgh Dam to Beaumont, we were never more than a few metres away from the mighty Mata-au (surface current and the Maori name for the Clutha) 23 Fig. 61 Roxburgh main street, early morning. Old Man Range in distance. Hotel now a B&B. 24 Fig. 62 Much of today s riding was like this. Fairly gently up and down and lots of corners to keep you alert. 24 Fig. 63 The lads looking staunch outside the 4 Square at Millers Flat, 20 kms from Roxburgh. 24 Fig. 64 The only gold dredge left on the Clutha. At one time there were 42 dredges scraping riches from the bed of this golden river. 24 Fig. 65 Especially after we entered the Beaumont Gorge, the sludgy banks had slipped more and more over the trail. Most of the banks are loose dredge tailings and very prone to erosion especially when wet. 24 Fig. 66 In the Beaumont Gorge on an old railway bridge over the Tallaburn. The railway from Milton to Roxburgh was closed in 1968 and the Gold trail at times follows its track but not as completely as the Otago Rail trail. All day we had a friendly wind pushing us firmly along. It was better than finding a $20 note fluttering across the trail! 25 Fig. 67 Gunne, centre, is from Iceland and leases the Beaumont Hotel with his wife, Alison a kiwi whom he met in Iceland. Their hospitality was excellent. He served us breakfast, made sure our bikes were safely stored and was keen to talk. 25 Fig. 68 Great timing! Beaumont, a perfect place to watch the final of the Super 15 Rugby Championship. Better still! The local team, the Highlanders, won in a zippy and fast moving game. 25 Fig. 69 The Beaumont Hotel, early morning. There has been a hotel on this site since 1870 and the Gold Trail is very likely to generate huge interest in Beaumont as a stop-over. 26 Fig. 70 It s a sharp climb up to the BigHill Tunnel, built in 1911 12. The sharp bends and the steep climbs were prime reasons for the line being declared in the 1930s fit only for goods, and not for passenger traffic. 26 Fig. 71 The Big Hill tunnel, 440 metres long and lined with concrete. The Rail Trail tunnels are lined with bricks and schist. 26 38 Red-Nose

Images Fig. 72 Evans Flat, just outside Lawrence and close to Gabriels Gully where SEVENTEEN TONS of gold were dug up in the 18 months after the rush in 1861-62. 27 Fig. 73 Site of the Chinese mining settlement just outside Lawrence. Now the terrain is lower and the vegetation more extensive. 27 Fig. 74 End of the Trail - Lawrence, once the centre of a huge gold mining area after Gabriel Read discovered gold here in 1861. Here are David and Paul outside the Coffee Mine Cafe where we left the bikes to be collected by Trail Journeys and from where we boarded the bus for Dunedin. Paul caught a plane home and David and I stayed for a day to explore the city, to which I am firmly attached after spending the first couple of decades of my life there. 27 Fig. 75 Quiet, deserted, bleak Middlemarch, the the Rock and Pillar Range behind the town. Good luck for the trip, said Glenda at the Trail Journeys Depot, but I wouldn t like to be riding in this weather! 28 Fig. 76 Ted on the trail in the Upper Gorge of the Taieri River. In Middlemarch they told us that the westerly wind always brought freezing weather but here we were, for the moment, sheltered. 28 Fig. 77 As everyone knows: what happens on tor, stays on tor. 28 Fig. 78 Ideal riding near Alexandra - a level trail with a hard surface, the fragrance of sage, a gentle breeze at our backs. 29 Fig. 79 After riding through mud, it was like releasing the brakes to ride on the smooth wooden surface of a bridge. 29 Fig. 80 Ted, outside the Alexandra Museum, with Hilda, long-time local who stopped to chat. 29 Fig. 81 The Roxburgh Gorge where the cliffs rise steeply to 350 m above the lake. The original river level was about 30 m below the present lake surface. 30 Fig. 82 At times, it was so cold that the hoar frost settled on Ted s face, like a whispy beard. Paul preferred not to look. 30 Fig. 83 A section at the Narrows, where the track is skinny and zig-zags down a sharply inclined bank. 30 Fig. 84 The Gold Trail approaching Beaumont: now there are Willows, Sycamore, Poplar, Kanuka along the banks as the terrain lowers. 30 Fig. 85 Ted moaning outside the entrance to the Big Hill Tunnel because it has been a steep climb and his bum was sore. 31 Fig. 86 Near Lawrence and the end of the Gold Trail. Now we are in farmland, only a few kms from the arid tor country of Central Otago. 31 Fig. 87 Waiting for the bus to Dunedin outside the Coffee Mine Cafe in Lawrence. The cafe is for sale. Owner Jenny said: You serve only ten years for murder. I have already served eleven years in this place and it s past time to move on! 31 Fig. 88 David and I spent one day in Dunedin after the trip. Fortuitously for us, it was the day of a big parade to welcome the Highlanders after their win in the Super 15 Rugby Championships. 32 Fig. 89 Some of the thousands in the main street. 32 Fig. 90 We bussed out to Andersons Bay, where Ted spent his youth... 32 Fig. 91 Dunedin s central Exchange, photo taken when Ted was a boy. Our hotel is on the right, a little way up the street. 32 Fig. 92 Dunedin welcomed David by naming a street after him!! 32 Fig. 93 Ted in the Upper Taieri Gorge. 33 Fig. 94 Paul 34 Fig. 96 Dave 35 Fig. 95 David 35 Red-Nose