The Travel Chronicles of Mrs. J. Theodore Bent

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The Travel Chronicles of Mrs. J. Theodore Bent Volume I: Greece and the Levantine Littoral 3rdguides

WORLD ENOUGH, AND TIME The Travel Chronicles of Mrs. J. Theodore Bent Volume I: Greece and the Levantine Littoral Mabel Bent s diaries of 1883 1898, from the archive of the Joint Library of the Hellenic and Roman Societies, London Mabel Virginia Anna Bent Published for the fi rst time, with additional material by Gerald Brisch

The Travel Chronicles of Mrs. J. Theodore Bent: Volume I World Enough, and Time: Greece and the Levantine Littoral Volume II Deserts of Vast Eternity: Arabia and the Near East (forthcoming) Volume III The Iron Gates of Life: Egypt and Africa (forthcoming) Also available in the Archaeopress 3rdguides Series: J. Theodore Bent, The Cyclades, or Life Among the Insular Greeks Cecil Torr, Rhodes in Ancient Times Cecil Torr, Rhodes in Modern Times Christopher Wordsworth, Athens and Attica The Travel Chronicles of Mrs. J. Theodore Bent Volume I: World Enough, and Time: Greece and the Levantine Littoral Archaeopress and Gerald Brisch 2006. Unless specified, this transcription and all material Gerald Brisch 2006. 3rdguides is an imprint of Archaeopress Gordon House, 276 Banbury Road Oxford OX2 7ED, UK www.archaeopress.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers. ISBN 1 905739 02 8 (Paperback ISBN 1 905739 05 2 (Hardback) 3rdguides series editor: Gerald Brisch Co-editor (The Travel Chronicles of Mrs. J. Theodore Bent): Brenda Stones Cover photograph Nikos Kasseris (Ólymbos, Kárpathos) Mabel Bent s Chronicle covers. Top left: the Dodecanese, 1885; top right: the Eastern Aegean, 1886; lower left: the Northern Aegean, 1887; lower right: the Turkish coast, 1888. Printed in Great Britain by The Basingstoke Press

Contents List of illustrations and maps xii Introduction xv Acknowledgements xxiii Notes to this edition xxv The Chronicles The Cyclades, 1883 1884 1 The Dodecanese, 1885 63 The Eastern Aegean, 1886 127 The Northern Aegean, 1887 181 Cruising the Turkish Coast, 1888 225 Rough Cilicia, 1890 263 Athens, 1896 322 Athens, 1898 327 Bibliography and sources 333 Sidetrack A tale of two dragomans 339 Index of principal characters 345 Index of place names 359 Illustration and map credits 365

xii xiii List of illustrations Frontispiece Mabel Virginia Anna Bent 1 Mabel Bent s Chronicle covers. v 2 James Theodore Bent. xxii 3 Limestone fi gure from Kárpathos. 66 4 Theodore Bent s samboúna, acquired in the 126 Dodecanese in 1885. ii standing on the right is thought to be the Bents long-serving dragoman, Manthaios Símos from Anáfi in the Cyclades. 13 Sir William White, H. B. M. Ambassador, and his 344 staff in Istanbul during the Bents travels in Turkey. 14 The early branches of the Hall-Dare family tree. 357 15 The Grand Hôtel D Angleterre, Ermoúpoli 358 (1905). Mabel s hotel of choice on Sýros. 5 Theodore Bent s lýra, acquired in the 128 Dodecanese in 1885. 6 The Bents fi nd of Fl. Vibia Sabina (2nd century AD) 201 in 1877. 7 Three of Mabel s doodles. 261 8 The mandragora leaf Mabel pinned into her 272 1890 Chronicle. 9 A ladder was needed and very cleverly it was 281 managed. This paper print, taken in Rough Cilicia by Mabel, was inserted in her 1890 Chronicle. 10 An example of Mabel s handwriting from her 324 1896 Chronicle. 11 Theodore and Mabel s grave and memorial (on 326 the right) in the churchyard of St Mary s, Theydon Bois, Essex. List of maps 1. The Eastern Mediterranean vi vii 2. The Cyclades (from J. Theodore Bent, 1885) 4 5 3. The Dodecanese and Eastern Aegean 62 4. The Northern Aegean 180 5. Loryma (top) and Lissae and Lydae (below), 224 Theodore Bent s own details from a contemporary Admiralty Chart 6. Rough Cilicia 262 7. Part of Cilicia Tracheia, Theodore Bent s own map 268 of their routes in the area 12 Mabel took this photograph in Socotra in 1897. 340 Theodore is seated on the left. The fi gure