Crags Crags Amongst the most significant Wild Bouldering developments of late, this fine collection of boulders, set above the hamlet of Wath, enjoy a stunning outlook over Upper Nidderdale. The walk in from the east over rough moor gives the crag a real wild feeling and, with the exception of the isolated farm, the boulders feel atmospherically solitudinal. The rock in a few places is a little too sandy to be much fun, however most of the crag is spectacularly solid and scrittle free. Nevertheless, a suitable brush in the kit bag is sensible for the odd hold. The crags are spread across an edge of moorland approximately 800m long, with each around 50 metres from the other. Conditions: The boulders face principally south to west and are quick drying. Even during showers, if they are driven by wind, the odd lee face will stay dry and climbing is still possible. On a still day in summer the midges could be murderous! Parking and Approach: Approach is possible from the west (park at Ramsgill), but the quickest approach is from the east in 40 minutes. If using a sat nav to approach from Stope Bridge, do NOT allow it to send you over the moor from the west the track is impassable. From Summerbridge: Take the road towards Pateley Bridge and turn right onto The Raikes in Wilsill (brown signpost to St. Michael s Church). Climb the road steeply to a T-junction and turn left, then immediately right. Follow this road for 5 miles until you reach The Moorhouse pub; take the next left and follow this road as it winds through the back of the back-of-beyond. After 2.5 miles, bear left at a distinctive signpost and follow the road as it climbs up onto the moor. Parking is available for the timid at Stope Bridge, just before the tarmac runs out (add 20 mins to walk in), otherwise carry on up the rough track until a parking bay on the right (don t block the quad track) 300m short of the boundary wall. From the parking: Follow the track to the boundary wall and go through the gate. Turn immediately left and follow the wall past grouse butts. Cross a fence (boggy boots/wellies required) and continue on to meet another wall branching off right. Follow this rightward branch until you see a white topped marker post. To reach the Polio end of the crag, use the map and strike out across the moor, contouring the hillside to the western boulders. To reach the Tree Roof area, continue to P follow the wall, past shooting stands to reach a gate. Pass through this and turn right, following the wall to the next gate, from where the first rocks are easily seen. The crag was likely first explored by Chris Sowden and friends, who did not record what they did. Recorded development began with Pete Jackson, was continued by Paul Clarke, with
Crags further additions being made by Will Hunt and Ben Finley.
Far Left Boulder The first boulder reached when approaching from the north. A diagonal break runs across the front which will yield a mega traverse. Polio The obvious square-cut face defines this area. 2\ Sugar Cube F6B * The right arête by a flying leap and horrendous grovel! There is a good hold over the top but...the grade is irrelevant. 3\ Redhorn F6A+ * SDS. The shallow groove to a true moorland top-out. Boulder above Polio 1 2 4 5 1\ The Oyster Catcher F6C ** The arête by a flying leap and a difficult catch. Eliminating the large glacis will give one of the best dynos in Nidderdale. 4\ Groove Is In The Heart F5+ * Up the groove using the arête and pocket. 5\ High Step Arête F5+ * The right hanging arête using a high foot and some energy.
Laughing Cow 6\ LOL F4+ The left slab. 7\ Daisy F5 The left arête. 8\ Bull F4 The front face passing the creaky flake. 9\ Maisy F5 SDS. The right arête. 10\ N20 F3 The slab on the right. Walk on passing a big, flat slab. 2 Step A poor buttress with no recorded climbs. 1\ Gamekeeper s Wall F3+ * The highball wall on the right hand side of the buttress, making a tricky move at height to gain the flutings. Last Wall No recorded climbs. Octagon The short wall playing host to some unusual angles. 2\ Shelf Angle F4+ SDS at the left of the shelf. Up and over using the weird angle above. 3\ 8 Bells F4 SDS. On the front of the Octagon. Mantle the shelf using the angle on the right. Hollow Stone The tall imposing buttress. The harder offerings will need a brush on abseil. Ben The left hand of two boulders split by a grassy passageway that has a rippled wall on its left side. The first climb is at the valley end of the passageway, then described anti-clockwise. 1/ Planet Waves F6C * SDS at left side of wall and obvious sidepull/pinch for right hand. Pull on and follow ripples above. 1 2\ Age Concern F5+ ** SDS. From the obvious low edge/jug. Ripples and a rock-over to a round finish.
3/ Holding the Line F6c/+ ** SDS at same jug. Low hanging traverse across slopers to the arête then up or around and up. A fine problem. 4\ Golden Old F6B ** Low SDS. The right side of same wall, just left of the arête. 5\ August 22nd 2014 F6A+ * The back of the boulder. SDS and go straight over roof. 6\ Ben s Right Hand F5+ SDS as for 22/08/2014 but trend up the right arête on the overhanging side. Bill The right hand of the two boulders. The first problem is on the rear of the boulder, on a somewhat green and gungy face. Will Hunt, all out, on The Oyster Catcher (Font 6C) 6\ Caving for Beginners F5 * A low start using the low cave and pulling out to, and then up the rib. 7\ Easy Shelf Left F2 The obvious line just right, moving leftwards. 8\ Easy Shelf Right F3 Move up rightwards to gain the obvious horn. 9\ Granddad s Slipper F5+ * SDS at a large side-pull. Surmount the bulge above, moving slightly left. Tricorn The distinctive triple buttress split by two cracks. 1\ Drop F6A+ SDS. The left rib of the left crack. No leaning across! 2\ Gio and the Wolf F6A+ ** The shallow scoop between the cracks using a flatty and a tiny pebble. 3\ Go! F5+ The rib just left of the crack, struggling not to use it. 4\ Unicorn Pie F4 The right hand crack. 5\ Grab My Flab F6A The rounded right hand arête, using the Muffin Top for your right hand.. Undercuts No recorded climbs. Poor rock blights the otherwise promising roofs. 5\ Hats Off for Unicycles F5+ * SDS with a foot lock in the pocket and reach up for rail. Rock onto the slab
Flake Face The tall buttress is sandy in some places and glorious in others. 4\ Riding Shotgun F6A An indifferent eliminate, climbing the shotgun holes left of the arête, without using the edge itself. 5\ Treat Arête F4+ * SDS. The rounded arête...sweet. 2 3 1\ Wun Moove Groove F4 SDS. The small groove at the back of the boulder. 2\ Flakey Bottom F4 SDS in the hollow and follow the flake up right and round to the ledge. 2nd Wall An underwhelming wall with a couple of climbs. 6\ Scuttle F4+ The left to right traverse across the front of the block. 7\ Fish F4 SDS. Up the rounded left side of the face. 3\ The Wall Of The Wild F6C *** On the right wall, start in the middle and teeter left to the pocket. Top-out above this using a small pocket. A fight throughout with a high feeling finish. Ben Finley lands the top on The Wall Of The Wild (Font 6C)
Tree Roof The impressively clean, solid and overhanging wall is something of a rare thing. Where else can you find rock this steep with such an abundance of jugs?! The roof faces north and the first climb is on the right as you face the steep wall. 1st Wall The first rock at the east of the crag is not the best on offer. 6\ Slap My Flap F4 SDS. Right hand rounded arête on the front of the boulder. 7\ Monkey F3 Up the flakes at back of the little boulder 1\ The Green Man F6B ** SDS. A real test of the arms. Crimp up the overhanging arête just next to the holly tree. 2\ Owl Ave You For Breakfast F6A A French start gains the left side of the ledge. Mantel this and top out above. 3\ Louis the Weaver F6A+ * SDS. The middle of the roof trending right past a square-cut hold. 4\ Perilous Path F6A * Start at the flake and fire up and left to a perilous top-out (Font 5/5+ to here). 5\ Jack Colbeck Ate My Baby F6A+ * SDS. The left hand arête, over the flakes of doom.