ALICE HOLT FOREST Hampshire from www.discoverbutterflies.com the website for the book Discover Butterflies in Britain D E Newland Silver-washed Fritillaries in the Straits Inclosure in July Alice Holt Forest is a large area of woodland near Farnham. It has a well-developed activity centre and a continuous programme of events. But the forest expanse is so extensive that there is still plenty of space for everyone. The Visitor Centre is reached by a turning north off the minor road from Bucks Horn Oak to Dockenfield and Frensham. Owned and managed by the Forestry Commission, with a total area of about 850 ha (2,100 acres). On the north-western extremity is Butterfly Conservation s Bentley Station Meadow reserve. This is a small SSSI of only 5 ha (12 acres) with a diverse and rich habitat. TARGET SPECIES Purple Emperor (July), White Admiral and Silver-washed Fritillary (July and early August), White-letter and Purple Hairstreaks. Alice Holt Forest, once a royal hunting forest, is an extensive area of ancient woodland whose oak trees were used to build the navy s ships. Before that, there are records of a flourishing Roman pottery industry using the local clay, fuel and water. This probably developed from earlier iron age workings. In the middle ages, hunting was the predominant activity, until the increasing demand for timber for ships and buildings led to organized timber extraction. The Inclosures as we find them now were created in the 19 th century after the Enclosures Act of 1812, and large areas were then replanted. Since 1924, the forest has been run by the Forestry Commission, both for timber production and as a woodland park providing amenities for enjoyment and recreation.
Visitors can walk, cycle, picnic, or see the wildlife, and there is something at Alice Holt for everyone. The forest is a good place to find Silver-washed Fritillaries and White Admirals. Look for them in July and early August in sunny glades and open rides, often stopping to drink nectar from brambles. The dark female form valezina of the Silver-washed Fritillary is seen in the forest from time to time. Curiously this attractive female form does not find great favour with males of its own species. Also valezinas are reported to behave slightly differently from the usual females by being more likely to be found in shady woodland than in open, sunny rides. The emblem of Alice Holt is the Purple Emperor. A painting of a male Purple Emperor adorns the visitor centre s notice boards and literature. In July and sometimes the last days of June, these majestic butterflies may be seen anywhere in the forest. The best places to look for them are on its south and west sides. This is because of the geology of the area, which is mainly clay to the south and west, but sand and gravel to the north and east. Since sallows (the foodplants of Purple Emperor caterpillars) flourish best on damp, clay soils, the woods to the south and west are normally better habitat. The Straits Inclosure, at the SW corner of the forest, is where many people search. Enter by footpaths from the minor road from Bentley to the A31 at Frithend. You can use either of two rides, one starting at SU 805402 and the other at SU 804404, but there is only very limited parking here and the Straits Inclosure can be busy in July. So try the main rides in Lodge, Abbotts Wood and Willows Green Inclosures, all of which are also good. One of the main assembly points for Purple Emperors is the copse of tall trees on the edge of the old car park for the Goose Green Inclosure. Although the entrance to this car park at SU 806417 is now closed, it may be possible to park outside the gate without causing an obstruction. However be aware that logging activities take place here occasionally. The Farnham to Alton railway line runs along the north-western edge of the forest and Bentley station is a little under 2 miles from the Visitor Centre. Immediately south-east of the station there is an enclosed meadow of 5 ha (12 acres) which adjoins the Forestry Commission s woodland. This is Butterfly Conservation s Bentley Station Meadow reserve. Its acidic soil has herb-rich grassland with patches of dense scrub and a willow-lined stream along the railway boundary. This combination of habitats is unusual in Hampshire and many regionally scarce species are found. No less than 22 species of butterflies have been known to breed in the area, including the Purple Emperor and Pearl-bordered Fritillary, and the total species count is 28. Bentley Station Meadow became an SSSI in 1992. If you park at Bentley station car park, take care crossing the line. Not surprisingly, you may find many different species of birds in the forest, including grey heron, the woodpeckers, blackcap, chiffchaff, nightingale, redstart, whitethroat, willow warbler and willow tit. Alice Holt is one of the best places in the country to see (or probably only hear) nightjars. These summer migrants have a distinctive churring sound which can sometimes be heard at dusk coming from a patch of dense bracken or scrub. There are many interesting plants to find, including herb paris and wood anemone in the forest and many more in Bentley Station Meadow. They include sneezewort, bitter-vetch, spiny restharrow, common milkwort, peppersaxifrage, common dog-violet, common spotted-orchid and common fleabane. In the 1960s an arboretum was planted in the Lodge Inclosure with trees collected from around the world. This was not looked after well until recently, but a restoration project has been started to return it to good condition. There are good facilities at the main Visitor Centre, and some of the main rides are hard-surfaced and suitable for wheelchairs. My only gripe is that it would be helpful to have some disabled parking nearer the toilets. In addition to the on-site café, there are pubs at Dockenfield and on the A31 between Bentley and Farnham. If you are Purple Emperor hunting on a hot day in July, they have a lot to offer for rest and refreshment.
And if you are ready for more, Thursley Common NNR is only about 8 miles away and a wellknown haunt of the Silver-studded Blue (in July and August). It is part of the Thursley, Hankley and Frensham Commons SSSI. Head east through Frensham, where there is an interesting Parish Church, and on to Elstead and then take the minor road south to a car park at The Moat at SU 900416. Logging in the old car park of the Goose Green Inclosure Purple Emperor assembly area at the old Goose Green car park Ride south in the Goose Green Inclosure Entrance to the Straits Inclosure, south-west of Goose Green Main ride, Straits Inclosure Observation tower at a cross roads in the Straits Inclosure, with sallow behind
White Admiral in Goose Green old car park Silver-washed Fritillary (m) in Goose Green Inclosure Silver-washed Fritillary (f) in the Straits Inclosure Silver-washed Fritillary (f) in the Straits Inclosure Silver-washed Fritillary (f) form valezina Silver-washed Fritillary (f) form valezina
Purple Hairstreak (m) (with unusual marking) in the Straits Inclosure Silver-washed Fritillaries in the Straits Inclosure Alice Holt s Purple Emperor emblem Ride in the Straits Inclosure Entrance sign Visitor Centre
Alice Holt direction signs Habitat trail Alice Holt children s playground Bentley Station meadow in June Path from Bentley Station meadow to Alice Holt visitor centre The northern edge of Goose Green old car park
Railway crossing at Bentley Station Butterfly Conservation s reserve at Bentley Station meadow The Blue Bell pub sign at Dockenfield Blue Bell Pub at Dockenfield, near Alice Holt St Mary the Virgin, Frensham, near Alice Holt White Admiral in the Straits Inclosure
LOCATION Explorer Map 145: Guildford & Farnham 146: Basingstoke 133: Haslemere & Petersfield (Alice Holt is at the corner of three Explorer maps) Landranger (pink) Map 186: Aldershot & Guildford The Visitor Centre s car park is at SU 810420. Its postal code is GU10 4LS The geographical centre of Alice Holt Forest is at the tiny village of Bucks Horn Oak on the A325 about 4 miles south-west of Farnham. To reach the visitor centre, take the minor road from Bucks Horn Oak cross-roads to Frensham. Its entrance is on the north side about a hundred metres from the cross-roads. There are good facilities and extensive parking but there is a charge for parking. The nearest disabled parking is some distance from the toilets. Paths near the visitor centre have good surfaces and mobility scooters will find that many of the rides are accessible. Straits Inclosure is at the south-west corner of the forest with footpath access from the minor road running south from the village of Bentley to join the A325 near Frithend. There are footpath entrances from this minor road at SU 805402 and SU 804404 but only restricted parking here. The old car park of the Goose Green Inclosure is now closed for vehicles but has an entrance on the minor road from Bucks Horn Oak cross-roads towards Binsted. There is limited off-road parking at SU 806417. Bentley Station Meadow is at the western extremity of the forest, next to Bentley railway station. There is parking at the station at SU 792431 but there is a charge here. Nearby other parking is difficult. There is a footbridge over the line but there is also an unmanned pedestrian crossing over the tracks which requires care. For Thursley Common NNR, go about 8 miles east to Elstead village and take the minor road south to The Moat at SU 900416. Access to the Alice Holt Visitor Centre by public transport is possible by train to Farnham and then bus to Bucks Horn Oak, or, alternatively, train to Bentley and a pleasant but quite long walk through the forest (about 2 miles).