Ethiopia Ancient and Contemporary

The Smoking water of the Blue Nile Falls Ethiopia Ancient and Contemporary 12 26 February 2019 (Ground only: 13-26 February 2019) With Rift Valley extension 26 February - 1 March 2019 Richard Marsh was an extraordinary leader. Not only was he an expert on places we visited; he has excellent humor. I would definitely go on another trip with him. Theodore Sullivan, Ethiopia: Historical and Contemporary, 7-21 Feb 2017

Rock Church, Lalibela Ethiopia has the longest archaeological record in the world, is home to one of the oldest Christian civilisations on the planet and has been dubbed the cradle of humanity, with the most ancient human bones ever discovered found here. Its natural landscapes are spectacular and diverse and its rich cultural identity is firmly intact, being almost the only African country to have escaped lengthy European colonisation. And yet, this incredible country is still some way off the tourist map. This tour unveils the abundant offerings of Ethiopia, both past and contemporary, and shows you a remarkable land with a heritage matched by few countries in the world. The tour is led by Dr Richard Marsh, a regular visitor to Ethiopia and an authority on the country s history, art, music and contemporary society. Ababa, some of the most important in sub- Saharan Africa. Visit the outstanding National Museum, which contains finds made by French archaeologists in the 20th century, the plaster cast of Lucy being the star attraction (when she is not on tour). The Ethnological Museum is the best museum in the country, with an exceptional range of artifacts and Ethiopian handicrafts. You will also visit Trinity Cathedral. In the evening, hear a talk by Mulugeta Gebru, an expert on development in Ethiopia. There will also be chance to see some excellent Ethiopian musicians at a local jazz club. Fly to Axum, Ethiopia s most ancient city, littered with astonishing archaeological treasures. The Axumite Empire dominated the crossroads of trade between Africa and Asia for one thousand A big sprawling city with a small town feel, Addis Ababa cheerfully juxtaposes the old and the new. A short city tour will orientate you before you ascend Mount Entoto for a superb panoramic view of Addis Ababa. Start the next day with a talk providing an overview of Ethiopia, before discovering for yourself the superb museums of Addis fruit market in Addis Ababa

Stelae park, Axum years and gave Ethiopia its first organised religion, Christianity, in the 4th century AD. The churches and monasteries here are superb, richly endowed with icons and some of the crowns of ancient emperors. According to local legend, Axum was also the Queen of Sheba s capital in the 10th century BC and you will visit her palace here. Marvel at Axum s enormous stelae, fantastically well preserved stone monoliths covered in fine carvings, which were used to mark the tombs of rulers, and tour the Axum Museum with its fine display of inscribed tablets. Later that evening hear an absorbing talk on Ethiopian myths and history. Next day drive to Yeha, with spectacular views over the Simien Mountains, to the site of the great battle of Adwa, where the Ethiopian army drove out the Italians in 1896. Visit the pre- Axumite Temple at Yeha, Ethiopia s first known capital, an immensely old site, with some of the ruins dating to the 8th century BC. The geometric temple is stunningly constructed, so perfectly aligned without mortar that it is impossible to insert a coin between the blocks. Visit a typical Tigrean house and Church Treasury and hear a fascinating on-site talk on Ethiopian religious art. Continue to the church of St Mary of Zion, where the Ark of the Covenant is said to rest and where the Emperors of Ethiopia were traditionally crowned. Hear a talk on Politics and People that gives the background to some of those who have shaped this ancient nation. Fly to Lalibela, high in the rugged Lasta Mountains, a city that ranks among the world s greatest religious historical sites. Its exquisite 800-year old rock churches, which are hewn from solid rock, represent the pinnacle of a very ancient Aksumite masonry style. Some of the eleven churches stand in giant quarried caves; others are hidden in deep trenches. Tunnels and narrow passages connect them all with crypts and grottos carved off the passages. Priests and monks wander amongst the churches, many of which display some of the most remarkable examples of early Christian art. Visit the eastern group of rock churches in the afternoon. Next day visit the western group of churches and take a drive to visit the cave church of Na akuto La ab outside Lalibela. Next day drive out of Lalibela to visit Yemrehanna Krestos, one of the most spectacular cave churches in Ethiopia, and return via a local village for coffee. You will also learn about the art of the region at the Tegegne Art Studio and enjoy some mead at the Tej House. In the evening enjoy dinner at the architecturally and culinary acclaimed Ben Abeba restaurant, run by Susan Aitchison, a Scottish former teacher. Next day fly to Gondar, a city whose splendour became local legend during its tenure as Ethiopia s capital in the 17th century. Explore its dramatic castles and sumptuous palaces and the ruins of Kusquam Abbey. Visit the Women s Ploughshare Project the next day, stopping at the Felasha village. After lunch Fasilidas Palace, Gondar

Sudan Eritrea Axum 2 Gondar 4 3 Lake Tana Lalibela 5 Bahar Dar Red Sea to introduce the rest of the world to the rich heritage of Ethiopian textiles, and wander on Churchill Road to buy souvenirs and coffee. That evening enjoy a farewell dinner in a traditional Ethiopian restaurant with live music. Transfer to the airport for the early morning flight back to London, or extend with the Rift Valley extension. Lake Ziway Lake Langano Lake Awassa 1 Addis Ababa Extension Ethiopia visit the country s most famous church at Debre Birhan, remarkable for the eighty winged angel heads that entirely cover the ceiling. Return to Gondar and later in the evening hear an absorbing talk on Ethiopia and the World: The Quest for Prester John. Drive to Bahir Dar, an attractive town of wide leafy avenues set on the shore of Lake Tana. The journey provides breathtaking views and there will be photo stops along the way. After lunch visit the former palace of Haile Selassie and the Fistula Outreach Project, part of the inspirational Hamlin Fistula Hospital. Enjoy a boat trip on Lake Tana and visit Narga Sellassie, a stunning 18th century royal church, and hear a talk on Sacred Geometry and Ethiopian Church Painting. After a picnic lunch continue to the Zeghie Peninsula to visit the church and treasury of Betre Maryam and return to Bahir Dar. Visit the spectacular Blue Nile Falls (Tissisat Falls), aptly known locally as Smoking Water, which is also a wonderful site for bird spotting. After free time by the lake fly back to Addis Ababa in the afternoon and transfer to your hotel. That evening Richard provides his views on agriculture and food in Ethiopia today. On your final day in Addis Ababa visit the city museum, Muya, founded by a fashion designer The angel festooned ceiling of the church at Debre Birhan (top); Take a boat to a monastery island on tranquil Lake Tana; A priest with some of the stunning church murals on Lake Tana (above)

Itinerary 12 February 26 February 2019 B = Breakfast L = Lunch D = Dinner 2 nights Addis Ababa 2 nights Axum 3 nights Lalibela 2 nights Gondar 2 nights Bahir Dar 2 nights Addis Ababa 12 Feb (Tue) London If taking UK flight package, depart London on Ethiopian Airlines 13 Feb (Wed) Addis Ababa L D Arrive Addis Ababa and at leisure Short city orientation tour followed by a trip up Mount Entoto for a panoramic view of the city 14 Feb (Thur) Addis Ababa Talk: Ethiopia the context by Richard Marsh. Visit the National Museum Visit Trinity Cathedral, and the Ethnographic Museum Talk: Development in Ethiopia by Mulugeta Gebru 15 Feb (Fri) Addis Ababa / Axum 2+, uneven* Fly to Axum and transfer to the Yeha Hotel Visit Axum s sites including the Queen of Sheba s Palace, King Caleb s Tomb, the Stelae Park and museum Talk: Ethiopian Myths and History 16 Feb (Sat) Axum up to 2 hrs Drive via the site of the battle of Adwa to the pre-axumite Temple at Yeha. Visit a typical Tigrean house and onto the Church Treasury. Talk: Ethiopian Religious Art Visit the church compound and see the church of St Mary of Zion, supposed repository of the Ark of the Covenant and the church treasury. Talk: Politics and People 20 Feb (Wed) Lalibela / Gondar 2+ Fly to Gondar Tour of the castles of Gondar, the centre of the Ethiopian empire in the 17th and 18th centuries, and the ruins of Kusquam Abbey 21 Feb (Thur) Gondar 2+, demanding Visit Kossoye for spectacular views of the Simien Mountains. Visit the Women s Ploughshare Project and brief stop at the Felasha village Visit the church of Debre Birhan Sellassie Talk: Ethiopia and the World: The Quest for Prester John 22 Feb (Fri) Gondar / Bahir Dar Travel by road from Gondar to Bahir Dar and check into the hotel Visit the viewpoint by the former palace of Haile Sellassie and the Bahar Fistula Outreach Project 23 Feb (Sat) Bahir Dar up to 2 hrs Full day boat trip. Visit Narga Sellassie Island. On-site talk: Sacred Geometry and Ethiopian Church Painting, picnic lunch Continue to the Zeghie peninsula to visit the church of Oura Kidane Mihret and treasury of Azwa Maryam 24 Feb (Sun) Bahir Dar / Addis Ababa Visit Tissisat Falls (the Blue Nile Falls) Fly to Addis Ababa Talk: Feeding a nation challenges and opportunities Richard Marsh 17 Feb (Sun) Axum / Lalibela 2+, uneven 25 Feb (Mon) Addis Ababa Fly to Lalibela and transfer to the hotel Visit the Addis Ababa Museum Visit the eastern group of rock churches Visit Muya and Churchill Road Farewell dinner in restaurant with 18 Feb (Mon) Lalibela 2+, uneven national food accompanied by Visit the western group of rock traditional music churches Visit the cave church of Nakuto La ab 26 Feb (Tues) Addis Ababa / London 19 Feb (Tues) Lalibela 2+, v steep Depart for airport for flight to London (if taking UK flight package) Drive out of Lalibela to see the spectacular church of Yemrehanna Krestos. Return via coffee at Yemrehanna Krestos village * This tour requires a good level of physical fitness Visit the local tej house and Tegegne with visits that entail an hour or more of walking as Art Studio indicated, often over uneven ground. Dinner at Ben Abeba restaurant

Rift Valley extension The spectacular African Rift Valley is home to a chain of scenic lakes rich in bird and animal life. Drive down to Lake Awassa, with stops at crater lakes en route, and check into your hotel. During your three nights here, you will spend time relaxing by the lake with options to swim, go on walks or bird watching. You will also visit local villages, banana and coffee plantations and see kocho bread being made from the enset (false banana) tree. There is also an excursion to Wondo Guenet hot springs, including bird watching and the option to take a boat trip to spot hippos. One of the beautiful crater lakes in the Rift Valley A good introduction to Ethiopian history and culture Fiona Murphy, Ethiopia: Historical and Contemporary, 7-21 Feb 2017 Rift Valley Extension 26 February 1 March 2019 26 Feb (Tues) Addis Ababa / Awassa Drive from Addis to Lake Awassa through the Rift Valley with stops at crater lakes via Debrezeit, Ziway, Langano and Shashemene. Check into the hotel 27 Feb (Wed) Lake Awassa 2+ hours Visit the town of Yirgalem, walk through the plantation and visit Sidama village to see kocho making (bread from the enset or false banana, tree) or at leisure by the lake. Options include walks, bird watching and swimming In the afternoon take a boat trip on Lake Awassa 28 Feb (Thur) Lake Awassa Excursion to Wondo Guenet hot springs and bird watching At leisure 1 March (Fri) Lake Awassa / Addis Ababa Drive back to Addis Ababa via Butajira and a visit to the Tiya stelae field Freshen up and change in a hotel room before the flight If taking flight package, depart for late flight to London, arriving next day The beautiful Rift Valley (top); Flamingos in Rift Valley; Wallowing hippos in the Rift Valley (above)

Tour Leader Dr Richard Marsh has a long association with the Orthodox and Oriental Orthodox churches. He is the author of Black Angels: The Art and Spirituality of Ethiopia, Prayers from the East and co-authored Millenium Challenges for Development and Faith Institutions. He works in the voluntary sector, building capacity and improving governance and impact. Richard has travelled extensively and is an experienced tour leader, having led many successful tours to many destinations. He lives in Co. Mayo, Ireland. National Guide Dawood will be the tour s national guide throughout Ethiopia. We have worked with Dawood for over a decade and he is popular, warm and extremely knowledgeable with excellent contacts within Ethiopia. Project Bahir Fistula Outreach Project This is one of three sites supported through a bilateral agreement between USAID/Ethiopia and Hamlin Fistula Ethiopia. Hamlin Fistula Ethiopia (formerly known as the Addis Ababa Fistula Hospital) opened a branch obstetric fistula repair center in Bahir Dar to increase access to fistula repair services for women living in rural areas. USAID supports the Bahir Dar Hamlin Fistula Hospital, a 44-bed facility, to provide quality fistula surgery. The Bahir Dar Fistula Center works closely with the Felege Hiwot Regional Hospital in Bahir Dar (a large public hospital serving the hara Region) to facilitate women s access to caesarean section services. The fistula centre supports a community outreach component to raise awareness about fistula prevention. The fully-inclusive price of the tour is USD $5370 The ground only cost (not including international flights and transfers) is USD $4995 The full cost includes: Return economy flights on the scheduled services of Ethiopian Airways between London/ Addis Ababa The ground only cost includes: 13 nights accommodation in twin-bedded rooms with private facilities in medium grade hotels There will be a single room supplement of USD $500 Full board throughout the trip A full programme of visits as per the itinerary UK tour leader (Dr Richard Marsh) Comprehensive briefing notes Admission fees where applicable English speaking national guide throughout All transport services, internal flights and airport taxes in Ethiopia Tips The cost of the extension is USD $943 and includes: 4 nights accommodation in twin-bedded rooms with private facilities in medium grade hotels (single supplement is USD $218) Full board throughout the trip An allowance of soft drinks with meals A full programme of visits as per the itinerary English speaking national guide throughout The cost for the tour and extension excludes: All personal extras such as porterage, laundry, inoculation fees and drinks not with meals All optional excursions, tours and visits Visa Dawood is an excellent, considerate and thoroughly professional guide, to be recommended. Annette Synge, Ethiopia 2013

About Us To travel with us is to dig below the surface, revealing the deeper destination. Of course, you will visit the great historical sites; marvel at the wonders of architecture and engineering; be moved by the riches of culture and art; and experience the most spectacular landscapes in the world. What we also do is make sure that you see the country as it is today, giving you privileged access that independent travel and other tour companies rarely get close to. We give you a variety of experiences, from the sublime to the humble, in the company of intelligent, curious, like-minded people. And while we can be worthy, we also make sure that you have a lot of fun. All the flights and flight-inclusive holidays in this brochure are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (flights, hotels and other services) is listed on it. Please see our booking conditions for further information or for more information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go to: www.atol.org.uk/atolcertificate Jon Baines Tours (London) Hyde Park House, 5 Manfred Road, London, SW15 2RS Tel: +44 (0) 207 223 9485 / 5618 Email: info@jonbainestours.co.uk www.jonbainestours.co.uk Jon Baines Tours (Melbourne) PO Box 68, South Brunswick, Victoria 3055 Tel: +61 (0) 3 9343 6367 Fax: +61 (0) 3 9012 4228 Email: info@jonbainestours.com.au www.jonbainestours.com Simien Mountains (top); Selling vegetables at Lalibela market; Resting in the shade; One of the Lake Tana murals (above)