and bustle. As you marvel the traditional architecture, your way to the northern part and its Catholic neighborhood.

The Responsible Travelers Newspaper #17 Price: 2 JULY 2017 Read & keep, recycle or pass it on to another traveler...

EDITORIAL 02 Picture of the month Fira Discovering the hidden details in Fira.. Just try walking around off the beaten path and the local architecture will frame the pictures for you! Small details can make the difference Fira was a place where mostly Canaves (wineries), vineyards and a tower existed. It got inhabited after the destruction of the medieval capital of the island, Skaros. It is now a bustling place, with hotels, restaurants, cafes and shops. Enjoy your stroll through the town as early as possible, in order to avoid the hustle and bustle. As you marvel the traditional architecture, pass by the cable car and make your way to the northern part and its Catholic neighborhood. Monasteries, neoclassical mansions and whitewashed houses, all stand proud of the rich history of the island. So, seize the day! Nikos Psarros CONTENTS A Major Change in the Stratigraphy of the Santorini Volcano in Greece Slow Santorini Santorini for... The 1930s Santorini excursion Album Map of Santorini Chalvas with Orange sauce by SELENE restaurant PAGE 04 PAGE 06 PAGE 08 PAGE 12 PAGE 16 PAGE 18 _The Responsible Travelers Newspaper VIDEO TOUR Sharks PAGE 22 Publisher & Director: Nikos Psarros Editorial group: Carolina Rikaki, Walter L. Friedrich, Annette Højen Sørensen, J. Richard Wilson, Michael Fytikas, Spyridon Pavlides, Samson Katsipis, Marietta Papathanasiou, Lefteris Zorzos, Vangelis I. Paravas, Ioannis Giovos, Kostas Theodoropoulos, Laura Andrite, Yannis Pananakis, Christos Alexandris. Vlychada, Santorini, p.o. 84703 Greece t: (+30) 22860 83481 e: santotraveler@gmail.com e: santorinifriends@gmail.com santofriends 2017-2018. All rights reserved. Owned & Produced by santotraveler.com/tv Hot & Cool Santorini Moon: one subject many perspectives July Cultural Agenda & Events PAGE 24 PAGE 26 PAGE 28

A Major Change in the Stratigraphy of the Santorini Volcano in Greece FIGURE 01 1. Introduction Several scholars visited Santorini (Figure 1(a)) in Greece in the 1870s to study the eruptions on Nea Kameni. Among them was the French geologist Ferdinand Fouqué [1]. He showed that there are two prominent pumice layers on Santorini which he named ponce inferieure and ponce superieure the Lower Pumice Series (LPS) and the Upper Pumice Series (UPS). He shows the LPS as a continuous layer that underlies other (apparently younger) volcanic rocks on Santorini. The LPS and UPS are similar in their general appearance, but seemingly had different ages. Figure 1(a) summarises the theme of our paper: Are the two pumice layers identical or not? 2. Upper Pumice Series (UPS) of the LBA Eruption The LBA eruption started with precursory activity, followed by air-fall, base surge and pyroclastic flows. The phases, deposits, and effects of the LBA eruption are described in detail elsewhere [2] [3] [4]. A direct and precise date is now available based on radiocarbon analyses of two olive trees that were buried alive in the pumice of this eruption (1613 ± 13 cal. y BC based on the first olive tree) [5] [6] [7]. This date is about 100 years younger than the conventional archaeological date [6]. The strength of the eruption is a topic of discussion; it is considered to have been the most violent known eruption in the past 10,000 years [8]. The tephra of the first phase of the LBA eruption covers the tops of Thera, Therasia and Aspronisi of the Santorini volcanic island group. The wind mostly carried it in a south-easterly direction where it today provides an important marker horizon for geologists and archaeologists. The tephra has been found both in deep-sea cores and on land in Anatolia, the eastern part of Crete, and partly also in the Levant and in Northern Egypt [9] [10] [11] [12] [13]. 3. The Lower Pumice Series (LPS) of the LBA Eruption According to Fouqué and later scholars this pumice series (Figure 2) only appears on the lowermost parts of the caldera wall on Thera, more specifically in the lower part of the caldera wall at Oia and between Fira and Cape Akrotiri. In the following, we argue that the LPS and UPS are essentially the same layer. However, a recent study claims to have found the LPS on the island of Anaphi, which lies about 30 km east of Santorini [14]. 4. History of Research Fouqué (1879:206) depicted both pumice layers in a diagram showing Cape Alonaki on the caldera wall of Thera. Furthermore, he extrapolated from the angle of outer slopes of the volcanic edifice that the central part of the Santorini ring island had a height of about 450 meters. He considered that the caldera was created when the volcanic island exploded around 2000 BC. This concept was adopted by generations of geologists for the next 120 years and the two pumice layers were considered to be the products of separate eruptions at the beginning and end of a magmatic cycle, as will be shown below. In 1936 Neumann van Padang [15] presented a detailed description of the geology of Santorini, including the above-mentioned pumice layers from the

caldera wall of Thera. He followed Fouqué and concluded that the UPS and LPS were similar, but different, layers that occurred at distinct levels on the caldera wall. He considered that they were deposited by two strong eruptions, each of which produced thick pumice layers and triggered events of caldera formation. When deep-sea cores of the Eastern Mediterranean became available, Ninkovich and Heezen [16] identified the LPS and UPS from Santorini. Based on the enormous distribution area of the LPS in the Eastern Mediterranean, it was concluded that this eruption must have been bigger than that which produced the UPS. However, in 1985 A. Vinci [17] showed that the so-called LPS ash in deep-sea cores from the Eastern Mediterranean was not derived from Santorini but had a Campanian source. Pichler and Kussmaul [18] mapped Santorini in 1969-1970 and, concerning the LPS, mainly followed the work of Neumann van Padang. Furthermore, they divided the LPS into LPS1 and LPS2 that they considered came from two different vents emptying the same magma chamber. Ice core signals in the Greenland ice sheet were detected in 1987 and resulted in an age of 1645 ± 7 years for the LBA eruption [19]. Sparks and Wilson [20] presented a review of the LBA eruption deposits in 1990. A study by Vitaliano et al. [21] showed that the chemical compositions of the UPS and LPS could not be distinguished in various geochemical diagrams. However, Druitt et al. s comparison of LPS1 and LPS2 showed that their chemical compositions lie in the range of the LBA eruption, but at either end of that range [22]. Radiometric ages for LPS1 and LPS2 were presented (K-Ar dating): 203 ± 24 ka for LPS1 and 180 ka for LPS2. The age of LPS1 is based on obsidian in a welded ignimbrite below Oia. Abstract Two prominent and similar pumice series were described on Thera in 1879 the Upper and Lower Pumice Series (UPS and LPS). Since then, geologists have treated the two series separately because they seemingly occurred at distinct levels and had different ages. Here we show that these two pumice series are identical; there is no LPS on Santorini. All stratigraphic conclusions based on the LPS from Santorini should therefore be discarded. The waterfilled Santorini caldera with its steep inner slopes existed before the eruption. Volcano- tectonic effects in connection with caldera formation created concentric terraces that were mantled by the products of the Late Bronze Age (LBA) eruption. Subsequent erosion only left remnants of the mantle behind. Topographic effects followed by slumping during sedimentation caused confusion of the stratigraphy on the caldera wall. Our results are supported by geological, paleontological and archaeological evidence. Furthermore, the caldera with its minerals, pigments, harbours and hot springs was accessible for the Thereans. This reinterpretation opens new perspectives for archaeological research. The catastrophic LBA eruption (previously called the Minoan eruption) destroyed a flourishing culture on Santorini and impacted neighbouring cultures around 1613 BC. NOTE This significant paper will be published in 4 issues. References to bibliography in the last issue. SANTORINI VOLCANO 05 FIGURE 02 AUTHORS Walter L. Friedrich(1), Annette Højen Sørensen(1)*, J. Richard Wilson(1), Michael Fytikas(2), Spyridon Pavlides(2), Samson Katsipis(3) (1): Department of Geoscience, University of Aarhus, Aarhus, Denmark (2): Department of Geology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Thessaloniki, Greece (3): Museum of Minerals and Fossils Perissa, Santorini, Greece

DISCOVER 06 Slow Santorini Laura Andrite EDITOR Step onto a luxury holiday island where the streets are paved with marble. Wander through a breathtaking volcanic landscape steeped in the Greek myths. But is this the only face of Santorini? #SublimeHub team went on another kind of journey across the island to find out what it takes to keep the high-end image going and how the locals really live. Santorini is the land of Atlantis, the locals say. The eruption of Thera in the 17th century BC, one of the largest volcanic explosions in history, is the source of the ancient myth of the paradise that disappeared without a trace. Today it is still vividly alluded to among islanders and tourists. True or not, Santorini s fabulous landscape, surely a paradise regained, keeps the island a number one holiday retreat and honeymoon destination. Around two million people visit Santorini every year. Tourism is the island s chief industry; however, many tourists arrive as a part of a cruise ship itinerary, causing overcrowding and overburdening the island s natural environment. More and more land has been sold to chain hotels and restaurants, claiming valuable space that could otherwise be cultivated. In winter, when the streets are empty of tourists, Santorini is renovated and completely repainted to preserve its luxury image. This model of tourism is not sustainable in the long term, says Ifigenia, director of the Hellenic Culture Centre. She has lived for many years on the culturally rich islands of Lesbos and Mykonos. Now she organises educational and language courses and exchanges in Santorini to enable people to look beyond the surface and experience Greek culture in a different way. The astonishing natural beauty of the island, its hospitality, more recent culture and customs keep people coming back. It is hard for local people to keep their customs because of the fastgrowing tourism industry. The island has a good infrastructure, with many hotels, taverns, restaurants and things for tourists to do. Aside from that, there is an authentic culture that is hidden and that many locals don t like to show to tourists, Ifigenia says. Through facilitated contact with local people, and taking part in cooking, dancing, painting and pottery courses, visiting local farms and wineries, tourists get the opportunity to see Santorini in a different light. The history of Santorini is as rich as its culture. Its divine origins and tales of the flourishing civilisations that once inhabited the island can be explored at one of its prime archaeological sites. Akrotiri s prosperity and sophisticated city planning is illustrated by buildings adorned with frescoes of flowers and exotic animals and on rare pottery life on the island before it was buried under the ashes of the volcano. After the eruption, the island lay abandoned for centuries until a Spartan coloniser founded a city overlooking the Aegean Sea and Greek civilisation blossomed again. Over time, Santorini has become self-sustaining, producing an abundance of tomatoes and grapes. The volcanic soil gives the cherry tomatoes the rich, sweet taste locals are proud of. Next to the Vlychada beach, the Nomiko family opened their doors to the first tomato factory on the island. It produces tonnes of tomato paste daily that is sold all over Greece and more widely across Europe. The Tomato Industrial Museum takes you back to a time when people cherished the land and brought in the harvest under blazing skies. Tomato stories by workers show the production process, and life as lived by the local people. There wouldn t be an inch on this island we wouldn t harvest! Today all

the land is sold to the hotels! says one of Nomiko s workers, wistfully. The people of Santorini remember the glory days, and long for their return. Now locally grown products support just the immediate community. The harvesting of grapes and other products grown on the island s farms supply family and friends. Mr Nomiko Nomiko is a popular surname on Santorini a local farmer who collects exotic birds in his spare time, learned how to grow grapes and make wine from his grandfather. Trade passed from one generation to another is a tradition many Santorinians treasure. Known on Santorini as a skilful barrel-maker, Nomiko is a man to learn from about sustainability. His front garden smells of lavender, mint and oregano. He grows lettuces and rocket, beans, potatoes, onions, grapes, olives and pistachios, as well as rearing livestock. Greece has a crisis, but I have never understood it! When everyone lost their money, nothing changed for me, he laughs, opening the doors to the basement where his famous wines and rakia (fruit brandy) are stocked. Not available for general sale, the sweet and fruity 1996 Vinsanto is kept for special occasions. When asked about his website so that tourists can locate him, he laughs out loud. This is my website! Life on the island has not been easy. But despite the fragility of living in the shadow of an active volcano, the lack of water and long working hours during the summer, things move at a serene pace. Santorini s delicious cuisine, using ingredients sourced on the island, its vivid traditions, rich history and idyllic natural environment need to be kept alive, to make sure the island never loses its unique identity. DISCOVER 07 CREDITS First published in www.sublimemagazine.com Sublime Magazine. All rights reserved. The new and elegant Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria CONVIVIUM, located in Fira between the Central Square and the Caldera, assures and offers the highest quality and typical Mediterranean flavours. Our menus include a large selection of homemade pasta, fish, meats and dessert. Good wine list. Facilities: Wi-Fi, vegetarian, vegan & gluten free dishes. Available for weddings or business dinners.

PHOTO 01 VLYCHADA BEACH Santorini for... EDITOR MARIETTA PAPATHANASIOU...Easy Going Tired of the crowded beaches? Try Vlychada or Kouloumbos beach. No music, no beach bars, just you and the sun. Even nudism is not out of the question, provided you find the right spot If you fancy a quiet drink in the afternoon, explore the caldera in Fira- hard to imagine but there is a secluded small cafe and even a bar hidden in plain sight that offers signature cocktails. Both are perfect spots to watch the sun go down. For lunch or dinner, visit the picturesque village of Pyrgos, far away from the bustle of the city. Explore the small paved paths or just sit under the trees at the square and enjoy the atmosphere of a time gone by. An alternative choice is Ammoudi, an idyllic small bay with a few taverns, far away from the maddening crowds...easy on the ouzo! ENTERING THE CASTLE OF PYRGOS PHOTO 02

SANTORINI FOR......Romantic SAILING TO PALEA KAMENI PHOTO 03 Santorini is considered the idyllic place for honeymooners and offers plenty of choices for all tastes and budgets. A candlelight dinner in Oia or a private cruise with a yacht around the island are a must if you really want to impress your loved one! Alternatively, you can enjoy a sailing tour around the caldera cliffs or just watch the sun go down by the old lighthouse in Akrotiri. But you don t have to go to great lengths to get in a romantic mood on this island-all you have to do is watch the sun rise lying on a beach early in the morning when there is no one there Exquisite! PHOTO 04 09 SUNSET AT THE LIGHTHOUSE stunning photo tours private sightseeing tours BOOK NOW last minute weddings Santorini my tour Karterados, Thera, p.o.: 84700 E: info@santorinimytour.com mob: 0030 6906219301

...Alternative SANTORINI FOR... Take the small boat and visit Thirassia where tourism and commerce have not yet left their marks and have a glimpse of how Santorini used to be 50 years ago. If you are in the mood for great photos, visit the Red beach - it might not be easiest to get to, but it is a unique sight to see and capture. However, we advise you not to go down to the beach as there is a risk of landslides! 10 Lose yourself in the streets of Exo Gonia, Vothonas or Finikia and see life in Santorini away from the spotlight. Visit the old village of Emporio and see the remains of the medieval castle known as Goulas. EMPORIO CASTLE PHOTO 05 While on the subject, you might enjoy the visit to another Venetian castle in Akrotiri, which hosts La Ponta, the Greek Bagpipe Exhibition and Workshop. PHOTO 06 THIRASSIA: ARRIVING AT THE PORT

...Hikers Can you imagine walking along the caldera all the way to Oia? Sure you can! Just follow the path from the cable car in Fira and let the way lead you from there. You will need some hours to get there but the stunning view along the way will be more than rewarding. You might also want to try climbing Skaros rock, the old fortress in Imerovigli, discovering on the way the small church that is facing the Aegean Sea. Take extra care for it will not be easy! When in Kamari, try walking the path to Ancient Thera and combine hiking with sightseeing. Alternatively you might want to visit the small church of Zoodochos Pigi that is carved in on the side of the huge black rock. You can also continue hiking past Ancient Thera and down to Perissa and the small hidden church of Panagia Katefiani tucked away on a rock....food lovers There are hundreds of restaurants on the island that can satisfy all tastes. Greek traditional food, Italian, Chinese and Thai cuisine, gourmet plates, just about everything. You can even enroll to classes and learn how to cook the Greek way! Surely gyros is great, but do try to make the best of the plethora of plates that the island is offering. There is no account for taste, but just remember that there are many hidden gems that may not be at the caldera or have fancy food, but have great atmosphere, true Greek traditional food and reasonable prices. Any local could testify to that!...party animals! Perivolos beach bars are the place to start! Just walk by the seaside and you ll immediately understand where there is a party on the go. Feel the beat and take the best seat at the bar as there might be dancing on it sometime soon! Always keep your eyes open for posters that announce dj s playing, full moon parties, or just parties for parties sake! Events of all kinds are taking place in every part of the island during the summer season, ranging from local fests to electronic music after-hours parties. When day time passes, all roads lead to Fira! You should spend at least one night bar-hopping trying to find the perfect place for you. You can rest assured that time is on your side as bars do not close until the last client has gone home. Even then, there are bound to be people eating, drinking or just lingering around the square. Who knows where the road will take you from there... SANTORINI FOR... 11 PANAGIA THEOSKEPASTI AT SKAROS ROCK PHOTO 07

Athinios before becoming the main port The modern and main port of Santorini is located in Athinios where many of the visitors arrive today. Back in the 1930s it formed the closest 'beach' location for the inhabitants of Megalochori and Pyrgos. Τrips were arranged for several summer days and were spent at this location almost as if people had gone on vacation. EDITOR LEFTERIS ZORZOS Archaeologist The 1930s Santorini Excursion Album... Thousands of visitors arrive daily on the island of Santorini ready to take on this small yet spectacular island that has so much to offer. Most admire the spectacular view of the island while others explore some of the well-known archaeological sites, intriguing villages and the geologically unique landscape. Up until a few decades ago, the process of visiting another part of the island was a laborious task and involved planning in the form of an excursion or a field trip to a faraway land... A unique insight into the life and day trips of the island was recently discovered in an album from the 1930s from the collection of Cyvelli Moussouri. The specific album was scanned as part of the digitization project where over 7000 photographs of the island of Santorini and the island residents (from the period between 1860-1956) have been recorded. It was dedicated to Cyvelli's mother Popi Moussouri by a friend. It presents life on the island and how they experienced it some 80 years ago. The 1930s young adults appear in their daily life within their village (in this case the village of Pyrgos) where they embark on several different 'tours' of the island including some of the most popular locations even today. Let's take a tour into their world with a stroll down memory lane. Pyrgos Windmill The group of friends gather at the windmill of Pyrgos overlooking the island dressed for the special occasion.

Profitis Elias One of the most important trips was of course a visit to the highest point of the island with the most interesting aspect being a visit to the monastery of Profitis Elias. IN THE PAST 13 Ancient Thera The imposing and extremely important settlement of Ancient Thera formed one of the most crucial excursions. The hike up the mountain to Mesa Vouno was a spectacle on its own while the ruins always formed a focal point. The spectacular view over Perissa and Perivolos on the one side and Kamari on the other show just how different the island was, a few decades ago.

The 1930s Santorini Excursion Album... Nea Kameni volcano As it is the case today, the volcano within the caldera of Santorini has always attracted visitors from near and far. In the photographs from the period we can see how the locals experienced their volcano up close and personal regardless of the steam coming from the vents or the smaller eruptions that occurred. Akrotiri lighthouse One of the most popular locations on the island since it was built in the 19th century was the lighthouse of Akrotiri. It was popular both for the important building but also as it forms one of the most unique geological and geographical locations of the island. The landmark building and the incredibly colorful geological formations even today forms a very popular place to visit.

Katefio Church on the foothills of Profitis Elias One of the most iconic churches of the island is Katefio located on the northern side of the Profitis Elias, a short walk from Pyrgos and a unique vantage point. IN THE PAST 15 On the road to Vlychada One of the most iconic landscapes of Santorini is located at Vlichada beach. It formed an unusual out of the way trip, and from the photographs here you can see how via donkey they would 'travel' towards Vlychada with the picturesque windmills of Emporio in the background.

Legend main road second road trekking trail SANTORINI MAP Beach archaeological site airport port Parking camping gas station Oia and Ammoudi Isl. Thirasia Riva Manolas 16 Useful Phone Numbers (International country code for Greece: +30 ) Unexplored Santorini Buses: 22860 25404 Taxi: 22860 22555 Cable Car: 22860 22977 Hospital: 22863 60300 Port Authority: 22860 22239 Airport: 22860 28400 Police: 22860 22649 Fire Brigade: 22860 33199 The Beach The best spot for hairdressing, nail services, waxing, massage, sauna and makeup. Exclusive wedding packages! Main Road from Fira to Pyrgos. t. 22860 23678, m. 6970 434464 Fz Beauty Salon and Spa

C. Mavropetra B. Baxedes B. Paradisos B. Kolumbos C. Kolumbos B. Katharos Oia Finikia B. Pori Ammoudi Bay Amazing villages B. Xiropigado B. Vourvoulos Korfos Imerovigli Vourvoulos Active Volcano C. Tourlos Firostefani FIRA B. Monolithos Isl. NEA KAMENI Karterados C. Alonaki Mesaria Isl. PALIA KAMENI Vothonas Athinios Port Exo Gonia B. Avis Isl. Aspronisi Pyrgos The Beach B. Gyalos C. Loumaradi B. Balos C. Therma Megalochori Episkopi Gonias Ag. Georgios Profitis Ilias Zoodochos Pigi Kamari B. Kamari Ancient Thera Lighthouse Faros Akrotiri Emporeio Perissa C. Mavro Vouno B. Mesa Pigadia B. White Excavations B. Perissa B. Kambia Red Beach B. Almyra Perivolos B. Vlychada B. Perivolos Perivolos C. Exomitis Black beaches

Chalvas with orange sauce & honey-thyme jelly Chalvas Ingredients: 220 ml sunflower oil 600 gr semolina 750 gr sugar 1000 ml still water Chalvas preparation: Put sugar & water in a casserole &boil for 5 min. Heat the sunflower oil in a different pot & add the semolina. Saute the semolina to colour it (light brown color), add gradually & carefully the syrup. It is better to add the syrup in two parts. Mix constantly to bond & thicken the mixture. Use a baking pan (33cm x 28cm), put a baking paper & spread the chalvas. Let it cool down & cut in pieces of the size of your preference. Thyme-Honey Jelly Ingredients: 300 gr honey 400 cl watel 5 gr thyme 50 gr gelatin Thyme-Honey Jelly Preparation: Put in a pot honey, thyme & water. Warm the mixture. Put the gelatins in cold water with ice cubes to soften. Add the gelatins to the previous mixture, mix well & strain it in a strainer. Mold the jelly in a baking pan 28cm x 21cm. Let it cool down & slice to pieces of 10.5cm length & 1cm width. Orange Cream Ingredients: 300 gr orange 75 cl sunflower oil 90 gr syrup 1:1 10 cl lemon juice 1 pinch salt Orange Cream Preparation: Cut in quarters the oranges after you have removed the edges. Remove the pits & cut them in small cubes. Put the orange cubes in a pot & simmer for about 2,5 hours. Strain, & blend in the fast spin the cooked oranges & add as liquid as needed to make a creamy texture. Cool down on top of cold ben marie while the cream has to be covered with plastic membrane to avoid the top skin.

THYME HONEY Apiculture is an important part of the Aegean islands long history. Nowadays the Aegean islands are quite active on that domain with both professional and amateur beekeepers, who do their best so that we enjoy premium quality thyme honey. The honey is thick, with wonderful smell, amber colour and strong taste. The honey produced in the Aegean islands is distinguished for its concentration in thyme and that is why it is considered one of the best of our country. ABOUT SELENE RESTAURANT Selene restaurant was established in 1986 in Fira, Santorini by Yiorgos and Evelyn Hatziyannakis. Since 2010, Selene restaurant is located in Pyrgos, one of the most beautiful and well-preserved villages of Santorini, offering magnificent views. From the very start the aim was to use and promote the local products along with the local cuisine. So who does not want to leave the island taking along a jar with scents and colors of Aegean nature? What is more, a tablespoon of pure honey offers more energy and nutritional value than any other product! RECIPE 19 SHOP SELENE S SELECTION In Selene Meze & Wine there is also Selene's Selection, a delicatessen shop selling products of the highest quality from all over Greece. NEWS COOKING COURSES & WINE TASTING Selene restaurant has been offering cooking courses for 20 consecutive years. The last 5 years the courses have been enriched with various options regarding cooking classes and wine tasting. By participating in these courses you will gain an in depth knowledge of Greek gastronomy.

DID YOU KNOW 20 The lively colors of the frescoes in the ancient city of Akrotiri are still vividly preserved to this day, 3500 years later, because the ash of the Minoan volcanic eruption in the 17c. BC covered and protected them from corrosion. 02 Greece is the third top wedding destination, after Italy and France, for couples wishing to get married abroad. 04 The active volcanic island of Santorini, Nea Kameni, hosts seven craters while the largest crater is called Georgios, named after the former king of Greece. 01 On 8 November (the Archangels Michael and Gabriel name day), a fair takes place in a small church in Nea Kameni 03 The three main varieties of white wine characterized as PDO Santorini (Protected designation of origin) are Assyrtiko (85%), Athyri and Aidani (14%). Other varieties, at smaller percentages are Gaidouria, Katsano, Platani and Potamisi. 05 KAPARI TAVERNA: Mediterranean cuisine Mediterranean cuisine is the food from the cultures adjacent to the Mediterranean Sea. Although this region spans a wide variety of cultures, the historical connections of the region, as well as the impact of the Mediterranean Sea on the region's climate and economy, have led to there being many common elements in the foods. Grandmother's recipies Our foods are based to old, traditional recipies, our grandmother's recipies! Kapari taverna Fira - Santorini - Greece (main road Fira - Firostefani) T. +30 22860 27086 santorinikapari www.santorinikapari.gr

ECOLOGY 22 SHARKS monsters or charismatic but misunderstood species of our seas? Sharks are one of the most ill perceived animal group of the whole planet. For more than 40 years and since the original novel Jaws by Peter Benchley and the homonymous movie by Steven Spielberg, sharks are identified by most people as implacable and voracious predators that will likely attack anything surrounding them! The truth however is far more distant as one can imagine from the above. Sharks along with rays, skates, and chimaeras belong to Chondrichthyes a taxonomic group of jawed vertebrate marine organisms whose skeletons are made exclusively from cartilage rather than bone marrow. Sharks have a continuous presence in the oceans for more than 400 million years, with more than 500 extant species. The diversity of this unique group is immense, since the smallest reaches only a few centimetres of length, while the whale shark is the largest fish on the planet, with more than 12 meters length. Vangelis I. Paravas, Ioannis Giovos EDITORS Greek seas host a large number of sharks, and up to date 39 from the 41 species found in the Mediterranean basin have been recorded. Among these one can find iconic and charismatic marine animals such as the basking shark (the second largest fish on the earth), the smooth hammerhead, the big eye thresher shark, and even the great white! Sharks are top predators and thus possess central and stabilizing functions in marine ecosystems. Unfortunately and in stark contrast to the current human perception, sharks are gravely endangered with extinction. Considering Greece, 25 species have been characterised as threatened by IUCN (the international union for the conservation of nature), with 12 of them in critical status. The biological characteristics of sharks, such as the low reproductive and growth rates, the long life spans, the production of viviparous and very few offspring per female in certain species, constitute factors that are severely and negatively affected by unsustainable human practices that may precipitate even the extinction of several species! The removal of top predators, that include predominantly large sharks, tunas, swordfish, and marine mammals, mainly through unsustainable fishing practices, results in a serious degradation and simplification of marine ecosystems.

The complex characteristics and elements of ecosystems are deteriorated, and their resilience to climate and ecosystem change is reduced. Consecutively, the diversity of previously rich ecosystems is greatly diminished with only few surviving species, while the quality and quantity of the provided ecosystem services is greatly curtailed, as is also their overall financial value to coastal and insular human communities. Despite the fact that sharks do not constitute primary targets of fisheries, they are often bycaught, and discarded, usually lifeless in the sea. Apart from finning, a devastating and utterly unsustainable fishery that is practiced in South East Asia, sharks do end up in the consumers plates in the Mediterranean countries. Galeos is a typical fish fillet sold in fish markets and served in Greek cuisine, coming from several shark species. Unfortunately few consumers realise that Galeos is actually a shark, and that its consumption should be avoided for sustainability reasons, but also due to health concerns, since marine top predators tend to concentrate high densities of toxic substances in their tissues. Moreover, in several Mediterranean countries, including Greece, shark meat has been found mislabeled as flounder, tuna, or swordfish to be sold more expensive, since in the western world, sharks are considered as a low quality meat and far less popular than most of the seafood. Nevertheless several shark species are protected by Greek, European and international legislation, and their killing, fishing, and selling is banned. However, lack of awareness both by consumers, fishers, and marine users, but also by competent authorities, along with the ill perception of these charismatic species results in a skewed enforcement of legislation and a negligence in designing and applying necessary conservation measures. isea, Environmental Organisation for the Preservation of the Aquatic Ecosystems, www.isea.com.gr, v.paravas@gmail.com INFO THINK GREEN 23

IMAGE 01 John Adams Whipple. The Moon. 1853-54. Salted paper print, 7 1/4 x 6" (18.4 x 15.2 cm). Gift of Warner Communications, Inc. IMAGE 02 Eugène Atget. During the Eclipse (Pendant l'éclipse). 1912. Gelatin silver printing-out-paper print, 6 7/16 x 8 5/8" (16.3 x 21.9 cm). Abbott-Levy Collection. Partial gift of Shirley C. Burden One Subject, Many Perpectives The moon is among photography s most enduring and fascinating subjects. Artists, scientists, commercial photographers, and amateurs alike have long used all methods and technologies at their disposal to capture views that might not be perceived by the naked eye. In the nineteenth century, scientists sometimes worked around the limitations of available technology by photographing drawings or models of the moon that were based on observations through a telescope. Today, even those parts of the moon that cannot be observed from Earth have been photographed. The manifold ways in which the moon has been recorded from close up, with its cratered surface shown in vivid detail, to distant and glowing in a vast night sky have not only increased scientific knowledge of our planet s closest neighbor (some 238,000 miles away) but also reflected the pull it has always had on us. Pairing the camera with the telescope, John Adams Whipple became a pioneer of astronomical and night photography. Between 1847 and 1852, he and Harvard astronomer William Cranch Bond used the university s Great Refractor Telescope the world s largest at the time to produce awardwinning photographs of the moon that are remarkable for their close perspective, clarity of detail, and sheer beauty. To make this print, Whipple used an image of the moon first captured by the daguerreotype process, which he then copied with a glass negative. Faced with the technological limitations of negatives, which required a higher level of light to record images, other photographers working in and after Whipple s time photographed models of the moon based on drawings of telescopic images. (IMAGE 01) Although the moon is not visible in this photograph by Eugène Atget, its presence and appeal are implied. The crowd gathered in Paris s Place de la Bastille on April 17, 1912, was observing a solar eclipse through viewing apparatuses. Atget, rather than recording the astronomical event itself, turned his attention to its spectators. Though Atget made more than 8,500 pictures of Paris and its environs in a career that spanned over thirty years most documenting the built environment this photograph is an unusual example that focuses on a crowd of people. (IMAGE 02) EDITOR Not only was Ansel Adams a great artist, he was also deeply interested in the visual nuances made possible by photographic technology and in registering the ways that the various stages of the photographic process could be controlled by the photographer, from the exposure of the negative to its development in the darkroom. This print is one of the first of many that he made from a single negative. Attempting to convey the intensity of his experience watching the moon rise over this austere landscape, Adams progressively increased the contrast in the prints, heightening the moon s whiteness and deepening the sky s darkness. (IMAGE 03) In 1969, American astronauts Edwin (Buzz) Aldrin and Neil Armstrong became the first people ever to walk on the moon. One of them took this close-up photograph of one of Aldrin s footprints on the moon s surface, an image that helped scientists and others better understand the material character of the terrain. One of thousands of photographs taken during the expedition, it became an iconic representation of the moon landing and an emblem of humankind s achievements in exploring outer space. Anyone could order prints of these photographs, which became popular well outside scientific circles. (IMAGE 04) Kostas Theodoropoulos, physicist and amateur teacher of astronomy and photography

IMAGE 03 Ansel Adams. Moonrise, Hernandez, New Mexico. 1941. Gelatin silver print, 15 x 18 1/2" (38.1 x 47 cm). Gift of the photographer. 2016 The Ansel Adams Publishing Rights Trust Forty years later, in 2009, NASA launched its Lunar Reconnaissance Orbiter satellite, which records images of the so-called dark or far side of the moon, impossible to see from Earth. (IMAGE 05) If you find yourself in Santorini on July 9th, you can enjoy the Full Moon in conjunction with the lunar formations or Monolithos at its east or Vlychada as it sets! IMAGE 04 NASA. View of Astronaut Footprint in Lunar Soil. July 20, 1969. Gelatin silver print, 9 1/2 x 7 9/16" (24.1 x 19.2 cm). The New York Times Collection WHOLE OF THE MOON 25 From the course: Introduction to Seeing Through Photographs by The Museum of Modern Art. INFO IMAGE 05 NASA. Far Side of the Moon. Image credit: NASA s Goddard Space Flight Center Scientific Visualization Studio mediterranean cuisine Firostefani - Santorini t: 22860 21378 & 6946 003 463 www.pirouni-santorini.gr

Vlyhada Our favorite Vlyhada beach and the Tomato Industrial Museum on the right. We had the chance to walk on this glorious beach many times in winter. Still excited to do so. EDITOR Carolina Rikaki Traveler Hot & Cool...Santorini! Can you imagine what Santorini is like in winter? For those of you who have not had the opportunity to visit the island during winter, Santorini is completely different and absolutely charming. The empty beaches extend for kilometers, without umbrellas and sunbeds, the streets have no vehicles and no traffic, and people are relaxed and refreshed. You can stroll through the settlements without any crowds, walk the beautiful trails that are full of flowers and greenery and take original pictures of the island. During winter, most of the hotels and shops are being renovated, so all construction works take place in winter months. Donkeys are invaluable assistants in these constructions. Of course, you should not forget that many shops and restaurants, especially along the beaches, are closed. Above all, if you plan on visiting the island remember to bring warm clothes, because in winter, the cold and the north wind can bring down the temperature to 6 degrees Celsius (42 Fahrenheit)! It even snowed in January 2017! In general, however, the winters are mild and not very rainy and visitors can admire some amazing sunny and clear days. The Metropolis in Fira One of the most popular places in Fira, in the summer time. However in the winter we see only some donkeys, working hard in the...constructions!

Perivolos Beach A true cosmopolitan beach in the summer with popular beach bars and upbeat music. It is hard to describe the magic of it in the winter as there is no one else but you and yourself! CONTRAST 27 Panagia Faneromeni The small church of Panagia Faneromeni is at the old road leading to Emborio from Pyrgos. The area is full of vineyards and the landscape changes look and colors every season.

CULTURE 28 Agenda July Two-hour Greek Language crash course for beginners. Specialized teachers come to your place and offer an introduction to one of the most ancient and beautiful languages in the world. HELLENIC CULTURE CENTRE www.hcc.edu.gr, Megalochori, Santorini, e-mail: ifigenia@hcc.edu.gr, tel. 2286082820, 6944105484 July Creative Tourism Activities. Ceramics, Cooking, Icon Painting, Landscape Painting, Traditional Dance lesson, singing Greek songs lesson, Church trail, Thirassia island, walking tours, wine-tasting, local farm visit. HELLENIC CULTURE CENTRE Santorini calendar Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 / 31 25 26 27 28 29 30 full moon on 09 July July La Ponta tours and concerts La Ponta is located in a 13th century Venetian tower, within the castle of Akrotiri. Daily tours include a historical introduction of the tower and musical presentation. You can also attend the evening concerts: Odysseus Returns, on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays at 21.00 and Notes of the Centuries, on Tuesdays and Fridays at 21.00. Seats are limited, online booking recommended. www.laponta.gr July Orange Water 3 The International Festival of Contemporary Art hosts painting, sculpture, video art and installations by renowned artists from Greece, Holland and other countries. In Santorini Arts Factory, Vlychada. Free entrance. July Bodies in the Sand Math teacher and local artist Pantelis Leousis is inspired by the majestic landscape of the volcanic island of Santorini and has created original paintings. At Katharos Beach Bar, Oia July A day at the Tomato Museum A folk fairy tale which teaches young and old about injustice and its consequences In Exo Gonia (3/6) and in Vothonas and Emporeio (4/6). Free entrance. July Painting Exhibition Frenchman Roger Tourte s watercolours are exhibited in the Cyclades Iles de la mer Egee exhibition until 31 October. Opening on 1 July at 19.30. In Petros Nomikos Conference Center, Fira. 1-20 July Book Binding Exhibition Book lovers can admire the unique creations concerning Santorini which are presented by ARA (Friends of Bookbinding Art) and are of special aesthetic value. ARA have been promoting and projecting the bookbinding art as a means of artistic expression for several years. In the Estia of Pyrgos Cultural Center in the central square of Pyrgos. Open daily 10.00-13.00 and 18.00-21.00. Free admission. 3-10 July Sunset sounds A week long workshop for you to explore the secrets of music composition. You can improve your voice, learn how to publish your first album and participate in jam nights and songwriting circles. georgiatrain@hotmail.co.uk, irene.nom@hotmail.com In Santorini Arts Factory, Vlychada 4 July Morning service Morning mass dedicated to Saint Andreas of Crete takes place at the Red Church (Panagia Kokkini) in Karterados village. At 07.00 7 July Peter Pan The Theater of the North puts on the beloved children s story. At the Senior High School, Fira. At 21.00

8 July Musical performance Xana Zoo are putting up a children performance with music and dance. At DAPPOS Sports Center, Karterados, at 19.00 9 July Summer Party An all day and all night beach party with the music band 48 hours. At Wet Beach Bar, Perissa. The party starts at 15.00 with free entrance. 15 July Theatrical performance Male bonding and friendship are tested through lies and truths in the play Silence of the men, based on Eric Assous play Nos Femmes. At the Senior High School in Fira. At 21.00 16 July A cottage please 7 people go to a cottage at the same weekend in order to find a suitcase with money, a house, love and happiness. At DAPPOS Sports Center, Karterados. At 20.15 18 July Rocktapus The local music groups is promising a great night full of rock, funk, jazz and ethnic music. At Oia, at 21.00. 19 July Theatrical Play The book by famous Greek author Nikos Kazantzakis Travelling to Russia is put on a play, accompanied with Cretan music. At Senior High School, at 21.30. Free entrance 20-31 July Wood carving exhibition Eduard Limankin exhibits his hand made fish out of wood. In the Estia of Pyrgos Cultural Center in the central square of Pyrgos. Open daily 10.00-13.00 and 18.00-21.00. Free admission. EVENTS 29 21 July Music concert Local singer Chrysa Sigala is giving a beach concert. At the end of Kamari Beach, at 21.00. Free entrance

Agenda CULTURE 23 July Music concert After the success of her previous concert, popular Greek singer Natasa Bofiliou is coming again to Santorini. At the Senior High School, in Fira. At 21.30 24 July Music concert Local music band Tritonon is playing live. At the taxi parking place, in Fira. At 21.00. Free entrance 27 July Traditional Fair Sorotos Loizos and his violin will be the spark for the island traditional fair, in order to celebrate Agios Panteleimon, the patron Saint of Vourvoulos village. Plenty of food, wine and dance for everyone. At Vourvoulos, at 21.00. Free entrance 28 July The lie A comic theatrical play about lies that affect the lives of two couples. 30 July Traditional Music Concert Your chance to listen and dance to traditional island music, with Manolis Fytros, a well-known local singer, performing. At the football court in Kamari, at 21.00. 31 July Theatrical Play The Lost Jewel of Knowledge is a mysterious comic play for children. At DAPPOS Sports Center, in Karterados. At 20.15 30 25 July ERT Choir The choir from the Hellenic Broadcast Corporation (ERT) travels the audience back to the Italian Renaissance, the German Romanticism and the Spiritual and Gospels. At Gyzi Mansion, Fira, at 21.00. At DAPPOS Sports Center, Karterados. At 21.15 28 July Athens State Orchestra The Chamber Music Ensemble is playing well-known compositions of its repertory. In Gyzi Mansion, Fira. At 21.00 30 July Cretan night If you enjoy listening to Cretan music and eating Cretan food, then this is your night. At Kokalo restaurant, Firostefani. At 21.00 NEWS Please bear in mind that the dates and times of the events may change without prior notice. Daily updated information at: www.blog.santofriends.com

INFO. Santorini Arts Factory Vlychada, Santorini t. 22860 85141 www.santoriniartsfactory.com Santorini Arts Factory in July Santorini Arts Factory is a nonprofit organization based in Vlychada Beach, that aims to promote the Greek cultural heritage and to contribute to intellect and culturally shape children s and young adult s education. It was founded in 2014 and it is housed in a unique old factory that now stands as the Tomato Industrial Museum D. Nomikos. Let s not forget that the small cherry tomato is a Protected Designation of Origin product of Santorini, with distinctive flavour. Various events that suit all tastes take place during the whole year in Santorini Arts Factory. Let s take a glimpse on July events Sunset sounds songwriting If you are keen on music, then you can attend the week long workshop (3-10 July) to explore the secrets of music composition. You can stay at rooms near the sea and attend courses and workshops by Georgia Train, in order to improve your voice and learn how to publish your EVENTS 31 first album. You can also participate in jam nights and songwriting circles, explore beautiful areas of Santorini and enjoy delicious meals made of local products. For more information, you can contact georgiatrain@hotmail.co.uk, irene.nom@hotmail.com A day at the Tomato Museum If you want to do more than sightseeing in a museum, here is your chance. You can explore the history and exhibits of the Industrial Tomato Museum with trained personnel and learn about the history and culture of Santorini through oral traditions. You can also tour the art exhibitions and try local tomato juice and wines, together with local delicacies. Finally, after relaxing at the café, you can head down to beautiful Vlychada Beach for a swim and the sunset. Orange Water 3: Reflections of origin An international contemporary art festival is hosted in Santorini Arts Factory in Vlychada, until 5 October. The Festival constitutes a cultural bridge between Greece and Holland with exhibitions of painting, sculpture, video art and installations by renowned artists from Greece, Holland and other countries. In the previous years, in Orange Water 1 and Orange Water 2, 91 artists participated in 21 major art venues and museums, under the auspices of the Ministry of Culture and the Dutch Embassy. You can visit the exhibition daily 10.00 18.00 and entrance is free.

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