Expedition log M/S Nordstjernen Svalbard July 13 th July 17 th 2018
Friday, July 13 th, 16:00 78 10 N Longyearbyen Longyearbyen is a Norwegian settlement and the capital of Svalbard. It was originally a mining community, but now science and tourism are slowly taking over. It is named after the american John Munroe Longyear who started the first coal production in the Longyear valley in 1906. It was bought by a Norwegian mine company in 1916. Today Longyearbyen is a modern town with almost every facility you can imagine. The population is approx. 2100 and increasing. After breakfast at the hotel we went sightseeing around town, and visited the museum and Camp Barentz. In the afternoon we embarked the M/S Nordstjernen and our Arctic Adventure started. Friday, July 13 th, 17:00, 78 14 N Isfjorden The original plan was to visit Deltaneset, which is one of the sites where palentologist Jørn Hurum has been uncovering dinosaur fossils. Unfortunately, a recently stranded whale gave presence of polar bears in the area, and it was not advised to go ashore there. In stead we had dinner while cruising the inside of Isfjorden towards the Sassenfjord. After dinner Jørn Hurum held a very interesting lecture about the difficulty of conducting field work in the arctic, and the process towards putting the pieces of dinosaur together. We were also taught a lot of interesting facts about these amazing animals that roamed the world before us. Later that evening just outside of Isfjorden we were lucky enough to spot a blue whale, which is the larges animal ever to have lived on the planet. It came up to breathe several times in front of the ship before diving down, probably to feed on schools of krill.
Saturday, July 14 th 09:00, 79 35 N Magdalenefjorden Today we woke up on the way into Magdalenefjorden, one of the best known and beautiful fjords on Spitsbergen, with its jagged mountains. These are said to be the mountains Wilhelm Barentzs first saw when he discovered Svalbard in 1596 and named the biggest island Spitsbergen after them (Spitsbergen = peaky mountains). Entering the fjord, a small peninsula reaches out from the southern shore. The outer part of this peninsula has a small hill. This is Gravneset, where English whalers came to bury their dead in the 17th and 18th century. Today stone gatherings and wooden coffins remain from the around 130 graves. The Governor on Svalbard Sysselmannen has two park rangers on duty here during the summer to take care of this cultural heritage, and the environment in the area. Magdalenafjorden where whalers buried their dead during the 17 th and 18 th century On our walk along the beach we could see remains from three blubber ovens. This is where blubber from whales was melted and distilled into oil. The guides told us about the history of the whaling on Svalbard while we had a walk to the Gully Bay and its beautiful glacier. There, some of us were lucky to spot a harbor seal laying on a stone close to the shore. On the way back to the ship, we had some brave people who took a swim in the ice-cold arctic water!
Saturday, July 14 th 15:00, 79 40 N Smeerenburgfjorden and Smeerenburg Glacier On our way northwards we sailed through Sørgattet, a narrow strait connected to Smeerenburgfjorden. Magnus Elander held the lecture My view of the Arctic and shared some of his moments that got him intrested in the arctic while working as an organic chemist. Monica Kristensen told us about Arctic expeditions and what it means to be a polar hero. Well arrived at the Smeerenburg Glacier we went ashore close to the moraine ridge. We walked up the hill to get a wonderful view across the inner part of Bjørnfjorden and the front of the glacier. On the top we were told about the glaciers and glacier ice from the guides. We looked down to the ice-filled bay and had the opportunity to take some amazing pictures before walking back down. On our way back to the ship, we took a detour with the tender boats to get a little closer to the glacier front. A landscape to remember forever! Saturday, July 14 th 20:00, 79 58 N Raudfjord After dinner, we entered the beautiful Raudfjord (=Red Bay). Monica Kristensen and Magnus Elander held lectures, and on the east side of the fjord, we could see Alicehamna and the hill where the skipper Erik Mattilas lays to rest eternally. Around midnight we were lucky to spot a polar bear walking across Reinsdyrflya. The people awake could observe the male polar bear walking around, snacking on something he found on the beach, and even taking a swim. Sunday, July 15 th, 09:00 79 35 N Liefdefjord and Texas Bar Today we woke up at our anchorage at Worsleyhamna in Liefdefjord, which translated from Dutch means; the fjord of love. We had breakfast while slowly moving towards our landing place for the morning - Texas Bar. Texas Bar is a trapper cabin, built in 1927 by one of the most famous Norwegian trappers - Hilmar Nøis. We had a lovely landing here in the morning, and hiked across to the other side of the bay. The guides told stories about trapper life in the early 1900s. We saw several birds like the Arctic skua, Pink footed geese, and Kittywakes nesting on the bird cliff.
Sunday, July 15 th 13:00 Monaco Glacier During lunchtime, we went closer to the mighty Monaco Glacier, which got its name from Prince Albert the 1 st of Monaco. The Prince led several expeditions to Svalbard in the late 19th and early 20th century. Bockfjord & Jotunkjeldane We arrived in Bockfjord around 15:00 where we had our second landing for the day. The geology in this area is unique. South of the landing site, we find the most recent active volcano on Svalbard, Sverrefjell. There are also a few local hot springs here, the Jotun Springs, although they are not that hot with only about 15-20 degrees. Jørn Hurum joined us on the top of the springs and told us about the historical geology of Svalbard and the surroundings we were standing in. We then went for a walk in the rugged terrain and enjoyed the beautiful view. We saw a lot of driftwood on the beaches, brought to Svalbard from the mighty Siberian rivers: Ob, Lena and, Yenissey. On our way, we saw a variety of different flowers, and passed a yellow river of goo. Once on the other side the tender boats picked us up closer to the Friedrich Glacier. Sunday, July 15 th 21:00, 80 00 N Moffen Island and the 80 th parallel On our way from Woodfjord to the 80 th parallel, we passed Mushamna, a modern trapper station built in 1987. After dinner, we crossed 80 degrees north and celebrated on the aft deck with a toast. The North Atlantic is in fact the only place on the planet where you can be almost certain to pass the 80 th parallel with a ship, as the southern hemisphere is mostly ice-covered, and at 80 south you will hit a continent. An interesting thought is that there were probably no other people between M/S Nordstjernen and the North Pole at this time! After finishing our glasses of champagne, we watched the walruses of Moffen Island lying at the beach. A few of the big animals were even swimming in the water in front of us. The weather was impeccable with almost no wind and calm seas, as Magnus gave us a short talk on deck about walrus life and being.
Monday, July 16 th 09:45, 78 50 N Ny London This morning, we woke up in Nordvågen, on the northern side of the Blomstrand Peninsula (which today is an island due to the retreating Blomstrand glacier). We continued to sail around the island in order to go ashore on its southern corner, where you can see the remains after a British open cast on marble. Back in 1910, the island was known as Marble Island, and the small settlement was named Camp Mansfield after its founder, Ernest Mansfield. Later on, the place was named New London, which nowadays is the official name. We took a walk to have a look at the historical heritage on the site. North of Blomstrand Peninsula, you can see the Blomstrand Glacier, both named after a Swedish geologist, who took part in the Swedish Spitsbergen Expedition of 1861, together with the admiral Liljehöök. Monday, July 16 th 13:00, 78 50 N Ossian Sarsfjellet During lunch, we stopped by the bird cliffs of Ossian Sars where many blacklegged kittiwakes and Brünnich s guillemots nest.
Monday, July 16 th, 13:30, 78 50 N Ny-Ålesund Ny-Ålesund is the world s northernmost community. As we came ashore, we went on a guided tour in town. Ny-Ålesund is a former mining village, which has become an important international research centre. A lot of different fields are covered, such as research on atmosphere and the ozone layer, but even geological, biological and glacial research is carried out here. There is a small center with a shop, a post-office and a museum. Ny-Ålesund was the focal point for the world s attention several times during the 1920 s. In 1925 Roald Amundsen attempted to reach the North Pole from Ny-Ålesund with the seaplanes N24 and N25. In 1926 Amundsen returned to Ny-Ålesund, accompanied by the American Lincoln Elsworth and the Italian Umberto Nobile, in order to set out on a joint expedition with the airship Norge. This expedition was a success. The airship flew over the North Pole as planned and landed in Teller, Alaska. In 1945 until 1962 we experienced the second mining period. But the problem with the coal layers in Ny-Ålesund is that they are almost vertical and gases develop in the mines. 86 miners have lost their life in the mines of Ny-Ålesund through the years. The worst accident of them all happened November 5 th 1962. Late at night, there was a big explosion in the Esther Mine and 21 miners lost their life. A committee made an investigation and they concluded that the Norwegian state should have been more concerned about the safety in Ny-Ålesund. Since Kings Bay was a state enterprise, the public blamed the government. In August 1963, Prime Minister Gerhardsen and his government resigned because of this tragedy. Research started in Ny-Ålesund in the late 1950 s, but started to develop consequently after the closure of the mine, in 1963. During the 1990 s, research increased from 4,100 man-days in 1990 to 10,031 in 2000. Each year scientists from at least fifteen nations run more than 120 research projects.
Monday, July 16 th 17:30, out at sea Farewell gathering We gathered with the ship s crew and the guides for a farewell ceremony. Certificates were handed out to everyone for crossing the 80 th parallel, and the true heroes among us, those who took a swim in the chilly arctic water were rewarded with a special Arctic Ocean Dip Certificate! You probably crushed the record in numbers of swimmers, during this cruise! Not less than 30 brave swimmers were among us!! That was the end of the Svalbard summer adventure for this time. Are you sad to leave Svalbard? Are you curious about what it is like in the winter? Grab a copy of our catalogue or visit www.hurtigrutensvalbard.com. We hope to see you back again for another arctic adventure. Best regards from your cruise guides, Heiko, Robert, Signe, Annichen, Philip, Veronica and Øyvind.