Vernacular architecture and various sites - Tower houses (kullas) in De ani/deçan - Velika Ho a - Novo Brdo - Prizren Fort - Old Bridge, Vu itrn/vushtrri - Ulpiana archeological site - St. Jeremiah Church log-cabin, Gorazdevac - Memorial complex Kosovopolje - Emin Giku Ethnological Park, Priština/ Prishtinë 96
Tower houses (kullas) in De ani/deçan Kullas in Junik and De ani/deçan (reconstructed), 2003 Description Characteristic of the vernacular architecture of western Kosovo is the two-story town house with an open gallery and the impressive stone tower-residence called kulla (Turkish kule= tower). This type of building, which stems from the Ottoman era, is spread throughout the Balkans but is frequently found on the Djukagjin Plateau, where it is a significant feature in villages such as De ani/deçan, Junik and Nivokaz but also Strellc, Isniq, Batushe and Vrelle. Before the armed conflict, some 500 of these buildings still existed. Most of them were however shelled and burned into ruins in 1998/1999. Kulla in De ani/deçan (2003) under reconstruction 97
The Kosovo kullas are predominantly from the 18 th and 19 th centuries but were still constructed during the first decades of the 20 th century. They were built for extended families as semi-fortified residences and belong to the Albanian culture. The traditional kulla has three stories; the ground floor is used as a stable, the first floor has fire room, a living room and a store, and the upper floor is the men s room (oda). The oda has a fireplace, low benches along the walls and often a decorated ceiling with elaborate patterns. Guests can reach this floor by separate stairs. The top floor has also a vestibule and a gallery (often in wood) with a raised platform. The vestibule is connected to a sanitation point, which is extended from the building. The kullas are built in rubble stone set in lime mortar with corner and frames around openings in dressed stone. Present condition Among the villages characterized by kulla buildings, the village of De ani/deçan stands out as a suitable location for an international rehabilitation project. Most of the ten kullas built adjacent to the Mehmet Uka Street have been destroyed during the hostilities. The municipality is engaged in the rehabilitation through its planning authority and a pre-project is formulated in cooperation with the Swedish Foundation Cultural Heritage without Borders (CHwB). One kulla has already been reconstructed by CHwB, with joint financing by the European Agency of Reconstruction (EAR) and the Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency (SIDA). Another kulla, owned by the Central Institute for the Protection of Monuments (Pristina) may be reconstructed with financial assistance from the Packard Foundation (USA). 98
The kullas are concentrated along the old street of De ani/deçan between the mosque (cf. p.88) and the ruined water mill. The street is aligned to a canal which, when restored, will contribute to the making of an attractive environment. A rehabilitation of the environment will not only mean the safeguarding of an extraordinary heritage but also represent a necessary step towards the revitalization of De ani/deçan as an essential part of the Djukagjin plain with its many cultural and natural sites such as the Monastery (cf. p.17), museums, traditional town houses, the mountains of De ani and Rugova, and the Mirusha waterfalls. These sites are promising for the development of tourism. Recommended measures Before restoring one of the most valuable environments with clusters of kullas, including buildings, walls, vegetation and infrastructure such as roads, fresh water, garbage, and energy system, the present trend to disfigure the site with standard concrete/red brick houses with no regard for the homogenous historic environment should be contained. Features should be restored to their authentic forms and materials, so that a liveable space becomes attractive to both inhabitants and visitors. Although the whole environment of the old street should be rehabilitated, the work should be divided into two phases. The first phase should include the area between the watermill and the mosque and the preparation of an overall spatial plan for the whole area in question. Estimated costs 1.250.000 for architectural documentation, structure assessment, conservation planning, diagnostic study and conservation works, rehabilitation of infrastructure. 99
Velika Ho a Velika Ho a village in its cultural landscape (2003) Description This large, mainly Serb village is situated on a terraced slope overlooking a vast valley with cultivated land, the valley of Drim river. The valley has a pleasant climate with mild winters and an average year-round temperature of 11,8 C. A rich soil has made the area a successful ground for vineyards. The wine production has been famous since the 12 th century and has attracted wealthy landowners from Prizren, who built their dwellings in the village. In the Middle Ages, Velika Ho a became a lively centre for trade, crafts, religious and cultural activities. A large number of churches built since the 14 th century bear witness of the wealth and the spiritual importance of the village. Of the remaining churches should be mentioned the churches of St. Nicholas, St. John and St. Stephen, which are protected by law. In1995, Velika Ho a had a population of about 1.500 people belonging to some 300 families of mixed Serb and Romani origins. The present population is estimated to be less than half of that. The predominant agricultural production was the growing of grapes, which were processed into famous wine and brandy. Almost all families are said to have their own wine cellars. The village still retains its traditional vernacular appearance with several houses of historic significance although in bad, often very bad condition. As an ensemble together with the churches, the wineries and the cultivated landscape they make up for a most valuable and harmonious example of vernacular architecture. The main churches were restored in the 1970 s and are reasonably well preserved. However, the vernacular buildings of Velika Ho a are particularly vulnerable to leaking roofs due to the frequent use of sunburnt clay bricks (adobe). They are to a great extent damaged as a result of poor maintenance and not by the 100
immediate effects of the armed conflict. As that conflict caused a decline of agriculture, the vineyards are reported largely deserted, which had negative effects for the survival of the plants. - There is a living tradition of stone masonry and production of adobe. Craftsmen skilled in carpentry can be found in the neighbourhood. Present condition 13 houses and wineries have been registered as being of specific significance. The sites are normally surrounded by a wall with a more or less monumental gate that gives to a courtyard surrounded by houses of different age and functions. The traditional buildings are hip roofed with protruding eaves built in stone with horizontal timber beams or in plastered half-timber construction with infill of sunburnt clay bricks (adobe). The wineries are often found on the ground floor of the main building but could also be a separate building. The following buildings are specially recorded by the Institute for the Protection of Monuments: The Metochy of the Monastery of De ani is situated in the centre of the village opposite the parish house of the church of St. Stephen and consists of two konaks (lodgings) and a winery. It is the only existing complex of its sort still belonging to a monastery. The younger konak is a two-story stone building of 1851 and has a ground porch and a veranda ( ardak) under a hipped roof formerly covered by terracotta tiles. The older one dates from the 16 th century and has partly been transformed into a chapel. The winery is a one-story building of stone with a porch supported by large columns. The installations and tools belonging to the wine production have been preserved. The complex was restored in 1995 and is in reasonably good shape. The electric wiring however needs to be renewed for security reasons. It is owned by the Serbian Church, i.e. the Monastery of De ani. Velika Ho a, Metochy of the Monastery of De ani (2003) 101
The nearby Hadžispasi house belongs to the family Spaši and was built between 1830 and 1835. It is a richly decorated two story hip-roofed house with a timber terrace and with overhanging eaves. In the cellar is a winery. The house is privately owned and in fairly good condition. Staci s house, built in the 19 th century, is situated opposite the main entrance of St. Stephen s church. The construction and type is typical for the vernacular architecture of Velika Ho a. Thin stone slabs cover the larger part of the hip roof while the hips have terra cotta tiles. The walls are partly of stone with bonded horizontal timber beams and partly of half-timber with inserted adobe. Most of the facades are lime-washed and covered by clay daub. The house has a porch and an open veranda. At present, the building requires minor interventions only. It is privately owned but abandoned. The winery of St. Stephen s Church belongs to the same neighbourhood and may date back to the 15 th or 16 th century. The lower parts of the winery are built in stone while the upper parts are of an adobe construction. The building is out of use and in bad condition. The northern and southern sides of the building are destroyed as a result of damages in the wooden roof construction. The upper parts of the building are severely affected by penetration of rain and the floor is covered with a thick layer of dirt. The roof construction requires urgent repair, and the ruined walls should be stabilized and reconstructed as well as the partition walls. The electric wiring needs to be replaced. Velika Ho a, Winery of St. Stephen s Church (2003) Also situated in the centre of the village is the Serai. It owes its name to the fact that it used to house the seat of the municipality between the end of the Ottoman rule until World War II. The building is hip roofed with overhanging eaves and has an irregular plan with short protruding wings. The ground floor is made of stone in between horizontal timber beams, while the upper floor is of white washed half-timber. The building is owned by the municipality and is presently used by refugees. The roof, windows and the staircase are damaged. 102
Velika Ho a, Serai (2003) The old konak and winery of the Monastery of Marko Koriški is now part of a site with recently built constructions. The konak with its winery is built of stone with horizontal timber in the walls. Upper parts of the rear and side walls are constructed in stuccoed half-timber. The building once had an open timber veranda, which is now closed. The ground floor has two wine cellars. The roof and ceilings are damaged and should be repaired if the building is to survive. It is privately owned and has been used only occasionally in recent years. Since 1999, refugees have used part of it from time to time. The old house and winery of Slobodan Mici is believed to date back to the second half of the 19 th century. The yard, to which one enters through a large brick gate, is dominated by a separate winery. Opposite the winery is a barn, now in ruins, and close to the winery is the original family house. The house is hip roofed, partly covered by stone slabs, and is built in a construction of partly stonewalls and half-timber. The ground floor was used as a stable for cows, oxen and pigs. The winery is of a similar construction and has still some of the original equipment. Both house and winery are abandoned and a new family house has been built in the lower part of the yard. The roof construction of the buildings needs repair and the stoneslates covering the roof need to be restored. The site is privately owned. The semi-detached Stoli house, situated close to the main square, was probably built at the end of the 19 th century. The street wing has survived with its ground floor used for storage. It is preceded by a porch which is now enclosed. A staircase leads to an open timber veranda and further to the rooms of the upper floor, including a well-furnished guest room. The house was built of stone and adobe and used to have stone-slate roofing. 103
The winery of the Patrnogi family, one of the biggest buildings of Velika Ho a, has the main wall in stone with horizontal timber beams, while the other walls are partly in stone, partly in half timber with adobe infill. The roof has preserved the original stone slabs. The konak was used by the family during summer and has a cantilevered timber veranda. The interior has preserved its authentic form. The buildings have been abandoned for many years and are in bad condition. Beams and floors are deformed and the stairs of the konak are ruined. Parts of the roof construction of the winery are torn down, doors are missing or damaged, and the yard of the complex is in a dilapidated state. Konak of the Patrnogi family, Velika Ho a (2003) St Stephen s church, situated in the centre of the village, has a single barrel-vault and small clock tower. It is surrounded by a stone wall built in the traditional mason technique described above. It dates back to the 13 th century but was rebuilt during the 14 th century; the apse with its murals is from the 16 th century while the narthex is from the 19 th century. The frescoes in the nave were painted in the middle of the 19 th century. The church suffers from dampness, which risks to affect the murals. There is a crack in the transverse arch. St Nicholas Church, situated in the west of the village and surrounded by a graveyard, is said to be the oldest of the existing churches of Velika Ho a. It was built in the 14 th century as a single nave barrel-vaulted church with a three-sided apse. Fragments of murals from the building period are preserved on the west wall. The roofs are covered with stone slates. It was restored in the 16 th century after a fire and again in 1974 when a balcony was removed and part of the oldest murals were transferred to the village museum. Cement stucco on the interior walls (probably from this period) is disfiguring their appearance. The building appears to be in good condition. 104
St Stephens Church, Velika Ho a (2003) Recommended measures Steps should be taken to preserve the authenticity of the entire village buildings, urban setting, vegetation and landscape patterns. To that end, it is recommended to proceed with the restoration of wine yards and vernacular buildings that can be used to support everyday life of the population like wine cellars. Restoration work of buildings of cultural value should generate income tourism, handicraft and wine production. Before staring restoration work, it is advisable to organize a workshop with representatives of the local community, experts in economic development and heritage experts from relevant heritage institutes. An overall spatial plan for the village and its surroundings should be prepared as a first step. The first phase of the restoration work in Velika Ho a should include five to six vernacular complexes. Estimated costs Workshop, architectural documentation, structure assessment, diagnostic study and conservation works, spatial plan: 1.030.000 105
Novo Brdo Description Situated in a mountainous region southeast of Pristina, the remains of the medieval town occupies a hill top whose altitude is 1100m above the sea level. Though there are archaeological indications that the area may have been inhabited in antiquity, the present visible remains are exclusively medieval. Novo Brdo was one of the most important late medieval cities in the central Balkans. Its growth was predicated on the rich lead, silver and gold mines in the vicinity whose extensive exploitation began in the first decades of the fourteenth century. Miners, as well as inhabitants of Novo Brdo constituted a multi-ethnic mix that included Serbs, Saxons, Albanians, Greeks, Jews, etc. Citizens of Dubrovnik had their privileged colony in Novo Brdo. Important registers that survive provide a clear idea of the city s urban profile. Historical sources and coins minted at Novo Brdo attest to the city s claim to fame in the 14 th and 15 th centuries. According to Bertrandon de la Broquière in the 1440s, Serbian ruler Djuradj Brankovic collected an annual income of 200.000 gold coins from the production related to the mines. Mining and minting of coins continued after the Ottoman conquest of Novo Brdo in 1455, but gradually declined until everything ceased in the 17 th century. The town of Novo Brdo consisted of a large unfortified settlement on the eastern slope of the hill, a fortified upper town, and a heavily fortified citadel with six massive towers at the apex of the hill. The fortifications survive in a ruinous state, while the remains of the residential and other buildings have been only partially studied through archaeological excavations. 106
Present condition On account of inclement weather conditions and descending darkness it was impossible for the mission to visit the site, which could be viewed only from a distance of several hundred meters. Therefore, no first hand observations about the state of preservation were possible. Recommended measures The complex unquestionably requires a careful inspection and assessment of conservation needs. Complexes of this kind that survive in partially ruined state are particularly vulnerable to further decay even under normal conditions. In addition to urgent conservation needs that will undoubtedly be warranted, further archaeological exploration of Novo Brdo would yield extraordinary insights into the life of a typical medieval Balkan city. Uninhabited since the seventeenth century, the site has most certainly preserved unique information that has not been preserved elsewhere. Estimated costs The figure of 860.000 proposed by the Coordination Centre could not be properly evaluated. Considering the size of the monument, and preservation needs on that scale, the sum does not appear excessive. A detailed project must precede any other steps that prove necessary. 107
The Fort, Prizren Description The Fort is constructed on a natural rock and controls the pass between Kosovo and Albania. It has been used as a military stronghold since the earliest times. Remains of a Neolithic settlement, as well as Illyrian ceramics and weapons have been discovered in the vicinity. During the Roman era, the original Illyrian town of Theranda was developed as a garrison centred around a fortress on the site. Prizren Fort 1889 Muhamed Shukriu Prizren I Lashtë, Prizren 2001 Prizren Fort 1889 Muhamed Shukriu Prizren I Lashtë, Prizren 2001 Prizren Fort 1914 Muhamed Shukriu Prizren I Lashtë, Prizren 2001 In the Byzantine period more fortifications were built. The first reached its greatest importance during the medieval Serbian Empire. It covers an area of about 15.000 m 2 and consists of three sections. One of them dates from the 5 th century B.C. Plan of the Fort 1969 Muhamed Shukriu Prizren I Lashtë, Prizren 2001 Prizren Fort 1995 Muhamed Shukriu Prizren I Lashtë, Prizren 2001 108
During the Ottoman Empire, it was used continuously. During the reign of Mehmet Pasha (1809-36) a clock tower was constructed in the Fort and in 1828 the mosque was reconstructed. It had probably first been built in the second half of the 15 th century, after the Ottomans conquest of Prizren in 1455. After the Serbian army took Prizren in 1912, the citadel and all building there were blown up. Present condition The ruins of the buildings in the Fort as well as the citadel wall suffer not only from negligence but also from natural degradation caused by wind, sunrays and rain. The stones are deteriorated due to physical and chemical weathering. Cracks, tilting and bulging are common features in the existing structures. The mortar of the joints is washed by rain. The whole area is covered by vegetation; plant roots have caused considerable damage to walls. Recommended measures In general the Fort needs urgent conservation measures. After necessary archaeological excavation according to international standards and a thorough documentation by aerial survey, the site should be prepared for visits by tourists and for staging of cultural events. For such activities, the use of reversible light structures is recommended. The site should be included in the tourist city programme and an appropriate documentation should be prepared for tourist guidance. Estimated costs Aerial survey, architectural documentation, structural assessment, diagnostic study and consolidation works, as well as working out all necessary preventive measures works to ensure the preservation of the site: 239.000 109
Entrance of Prizren Fort (2003) View from the Prizren Fort (2003) 110
Old Bridge, Vu itrn/vushtrri The bridge is located west of the town. It was built towards the end of the 14 th century over the Sitnica/Sitnicë river, the bed of which was diverted in the 20 th century. It is considered to be the oldest preserved stone bridge in Serbia. Description The bridge is about 135m long and 5m wide. It consists of nine arches (four pointed and five semi-circular) built of alternative red and white voussoirs. The stones used for the construction are well dressed ashlar stones with fine joints; lead sheets were used in joints, probably to give the bridge some sort of flexibility to accommodate with the traffic movement on its surface. The bridge parapet is one meter high and consists of different stone pieces, some of them missing. Old bridge, general view (2003) Being deprived of its original function, the bridge now represents a historical monument of extraordinary value in a state of neglect and dilapidation. With its pleasant surroundings and a nice view on the mountains, it could be rehabilitated and put into use for cultural tourism purposes, e.g. with an adjacent recreation ground with cafés and restaurants. Stone deterioration and missing stones (2003) Recommended measures Following a structural study of the stability of the bridge, the site should be excavated and cleaned. The stones should be consolidated and the joints repointed. Should the site be rehabilitated and upgraded to a cultural tourism attraction, the new structures (cafés, restaurants) should be designed so as to take into consideration the historic dimension of the site. Estimated costs Architectural documentation, structural assessment, diagnostic study, restoration and conservation work: between 217.000. 111
Old Bridge Vu itrn/vushtrri - Deteriorated stone (rupture & scaling) and missing mortar (2003) Stone deterioration (2003) - chipping and pitting 112