Jura and the Franche-Comté

Jura and the Franche-Comté This is waterfall country, where great rivers gush from underground caves and there are quiet lakes for peaceful swimming hidden within rolling hills. 4 Lac d Ilay 14 Jura and the Franche-Comté 15

DIJON a-39 a-36 d-9 BESANÇON a n-57 9 Jura 1 cascades du hérisson The Blue Pool is a perfect plunge pool set in a woody glade with each and a waterfall you can walk ehind. a-36 a-39 Dole n-83 c d-72 5 a 10 a Franse d-471 d-67 8 a Mouthier-Haute-Pierre n-57 Pontarlier 2a gorges de l aîme Kids will love the suspended walkways and ridges up into this fern-clad gorge. 3 cascade de vulvoz A narrow twisted gorge spouts water into in a large atrium with plunge pool. Lots to explore and, with its ancient ruined mill, rather mysterious. 4 lac d ilay A perfect lake with grassy shores, shallow water to ease you in slowly and views of mountains and rolling hills. a-39 a-39 Bourg-en-Bresse Lons-le-Saunier d c 6 a d-109 d-678 a-404 Champagnole d-471 d-27 d-27 3 4 a c 1 a d-437 St-Claude 7 d-991 a n-5 3 a 2 a St-Laurent Morez Mouthe a-1 20km a-1 6 lac de vouglans A long, sinuous lake formed from a stunning flooded gorge. Several secret ays on the shores that are reminiscent of fishing coves you might find in Thailand. A lovely place to camp out. 7c lac genin A popular little lake set in rolling hills with a great lakeside café. 8a source de la loue The river emerges from a great cave opening in the cliff side and tumles into a large pool. You can clim up into the cave and explore the passageways inside. 9a montgesoye Downstream of the source of the Loue, the deep pool is one of the most eautiful swimming places on the river, with completely clear, jade-coloured water. Nantua a-40 Bellegarde -s-valserine GENEVA a-40

1 Le Gour Bleu 1 Lac du Val 2 Although gentler and less rugged than the Alps, this region is certainly not lacking in wilderness and adventure. From the Région des Lacs and the Cascades du Hérisson, to the sources of rivers erupting from caves deep underground, it has some of the most impressive scenery in the country. Waterfalls dominate this region, and the Cascades du Hérisson is a good place to start, not least ecause all the signs seem to point you in that direction. This is the main visitor attraction in the Jura ut the crowds soon melt away once you have climed up and aove the main falls L Éventail and the Le Grand Saut. Neither of these has a plunge pool ut if you continue through woodlands on the marked trail you will come to Le Gour Bleu (Blue Pool) where a small plunge pool has een scoured from eneath and into the cliff 1. There is a each, shallows and the chance to clim ehind the curtain of rushing water. Le Saut Cascades du Hérisson & des Comes 1 cascades du hérisson lat long: 46.6147, 5.8605 walk in: 30 mins, moderate Impressive series of large waterfalls ut can get usy. Two of the smaller, upper falls have plunge pools. The est is Le Gour Bleu, a gentle graveleached owl, with an undercut lip. From Ilay take the D39 W, turning L after 15km for D326. Continue, then park at the main visitor centre and hike up eyond the main two falls, aout 30 mins. a Saut de la Forge is another 15 mins (500m) up the valley from Gour Bleu. It s a smaller pool under a higher cliff (46.6152, 5.8665). There is direct road access from Bonlieu: turn at Hôtel de Poutre (signed Saut de la Forge) and park after 2km at a forest hut, then walk 200m downstream (or 650m for Gour Bleu). Lac du Val with a small each is off the road to the visitor centre for the falls (46.6256, 5.8180). 2 cascade des comes lat long: 46.4016, 5.8757 walk in: 5 mins, moderate Large waterfall spouts from a fissure in the cliff, falling into a deep a plunge pool overhung with lush vegetation and set in woodland. St-Claude is 30km S of Cascades du Hérisson. 2km N of St-Claude on D69, park at Pont du Diale. A signed wooden walkway on L leads down to a footridge over river with view of the falls (250m). a Gorges de L Aîme are just upstream from the ridge, across the road y the old water wheel. Impressive new suspended walkways, platforms and ridges lead to the Trou de l Aime, the torrent s spectacular source, where water spouts dramatically from a cave. Of the pools, try the one early on in the walk, just efore the ladder stairs (46.4052, 5.8806). 3 roche lanche lat long: 46.4549, 5.8908 walk in: 1 min Pretty river pool aove the Roche Blanche ridge on the river Bienne. From St-Claude follow D437 N along the Bienne. After aout 10km turn R off D437 efore La Rixouse and walk down to river. a Trou Bleu resurgence, where the river Bienne gushes out of a cave (46.5312, 6.0039), is another 10km upstream. Also accessile 2.5km W of Morez on D26 or via the footpath Sentier de Bienne. Cascade de Vulvoz falls into a large atrium with a pool eneath the gorge (46.3251, 5.7781). Aove is an ancient mill. 5km W of St-Claude on D436, turn L onto D63 and, 1km efore Vulvoz, take path on R to waterfall. 18 Jura and the Franche-Comté 19

4 lac d ilay Morning mist over one of the Jura s many lakes 20 Jura and the Franche-Comté

4a Lac de Narlay 4a 4a 5 Les Forges de la Forge 1a, a little further on, also has a small pool and oth are accessile from Bonlieu. Lakes also aound in this area of the Jura. On the small approach road to the Cascades du Hérisson you will see Lac du Val 1 which is a eautiful place for a longer swim. And only a kilometre aove the falls, near the tiny village of Ilay, is a series of wonderful lakes. Relatively unknown and in a peaceful setting, these are super for swimming. Lac d Ilay 4 is the largest and shallowest, the water is warm, and there is a grassy area which leads down to the each. The early mornings here are particularly atmospheric, when great swathes of mist rise up over the lake. Neary Lac de Narlay 4a has a shoreside campsite and also a small cliff area for jumping and diving. This area of the Haut Jura is rich in lakes, ut some 10 kilometres to the west, the river Ain forms one of the largest and longest lakes in the whole of France. When you look down on the Lac de Vouglans 6, which was created in 1968 y flooding the Gorges de l Ain, it resemles a great, winding serpent. There are a numer of resort areas along the north, ut towards the south the shore of the lake is wilder and you can descend to excellent wild-swimming eaches that are great for picnics and evening camping. Lac d Ilay & the upper Ain 4 lac d ilay lat long: 46.6319, 5.9001 walk in: 3 mins, easy A shallow gravel-ottomed natural lake that warms up quickly, set among rolling Jura hills, just aove Cascades du Hérisson. Pretty grass anks and a picnicking area under the shade of trees. Some fishermen, so respect their peace. Turn off main D678 for D75 to Le Frasnois. Continue N 4km through Ilay and, 300m efore Le Frasnois village, at N end of lake, find track on R leading to picnic and parking area. a Lac de Narlay has campsite and cliff area for jumping (46.6412, 5.9095). Turn L after church in Le Frasnois, (D74 Chevrotaine) follow road for 500m then R to Narlay hamlet. Park at ottom and take lakeside path 300m on R, which leads into the campsite. Or stay at neary! Narlay (go straight ahead through Le Frasnois). Cascade de la Billaude is a triutary of the river Ain (46.6808, 5.9377) and an impressive doule waterfall with plunge pool, though planned new steps and viewing platform may make it more difficult to access. Located 13.5km N of St-Laurent-en-Grandvaux on N5 then turn R at La Billaude (D279) to find café 600m on R. Walk 5 mins down a path to the pool. 5 les forges, river ain lat long: 46.7223, 5.9292 walk in: 1 min, easy Large deep river pools aove and elow weir (mini-hydro uilding) with very clear, cold water, straight from the source of the Ain. Picnic area. From Cascade de la Billaude continue via Syam to Les Forges (3km), then ear L (dir Champagnole, D127) and continue along the Ain (2.5km) to find weir on L. a Pertes de l Ain waterfall (46.7245, 5.9568) has a ig pool with eaches ut you have to clim over a fence to swim. Alternatively cross the ridge, turn L and continue up the river s L ank to explore the impressive gorge and pools aove (note EDF warnings). From Les Forges (aove) ear L (D277, dir Bourgde-Sirod), following the Ain upstream 2.3km. Source de l Ain (46.7497, 6.0236) is a very deep cave spring and pool with racing, rather greenish-yellow water. When it is clear you can see the deep fissure elow. In rare periods of drought, the pool empties completely, allowing exploration of the cave. Note the sign aignade interdite (athing prohiited) proaly ecause of the cold water. Continue along the D277, up the hill and turn R to Sirod to explore upstream around the Pont de la Chapelle (46.7382, 5.9856), then continue on the D283 to Conte, then L, signed to Source de l Ain. 22 Jura and the Franche-Comté 23

6a 7 xx 6 Lac de Vouglans To the south of the Hérisson, around St-Claude on the river Bienne, are more waterfalls. At the Cascade des Comes 2, set in a mossy, wooded owl, waters gush through a fissure in the rock aove and tumle into a large pool. Follow the gorge upstream, aove the Pont de Diale, via walkways, ladders and platforms, to find Le Trou de L Aîme (The Ayss) 2a. Here, the fern and creeper-clad cliff walls narrow, forests of eech and spruce cling to steep slopes aove, and giant marmites (tus) have een scoured from the river ed. Finally, a famous spring erupts at the surface from a 45-metre deep suterranean cave. If you have time, the neary Cascades des Flumen are also impressive, though there is no pool. You can also explore the Bienne upstream, including the Le Trou Bleu (Blue Hole) 3a. With all this running water it is not surprising the region s population has sought to harness its power. At neary Vulvoz 3, there is a small, ancient watermill, uilt within a sinuous gorge, aove a high waterfall. The mill was aandoned in 1930 in favour of a more accessile and less humid site, ut the moss-covered ruins, in their strange fairlytale setting, remain. The theme of great rivers emerging from underground caves and suterranean depths continues, with the dramatic sources of the Lison and Loue. Heading north via Champagnole, stopping Lac de Vouglans & the Valserine 6 lac de vouglans lat long: 46.4395, 5.7038 walk in: 2 mins, easy Super 20km flooded lake along a snaking gorge, much of it with dramatic cliff-like edges and warm water. This is one of the est coves with a each and trees for shade. At the D470 at Moirans-en-Montagne (2.3km N of the D27 intersection) turn L at the roundaout, signed Route de la Grange au Guy. After 500m turn R and continue 2.2.km down to lakeside cove. a Grotte des Forges is next to the cove aove ut turn L down a track, 500m efore reaching the shore (46.4336, 5.6990). Waterfall plunges down a sheer cliff into the lake at 46.4291, 5.6638. Those with access to a oat, or who can ushwhack down from the D60, might like to explore. c Barésia-sur-l Ain There are remote shores to the W of this village, off the forest road (46.5486, 5.6842). You can also find quiet lakeside areas on the lake road from Maisod (46.4815, 5.6819). d Base de Nautique at Bellecin is fun ut continue 1km S along the road to find large each with white sand. Turn off the D60, onto the D3, 5km N of Onoz (46.4809, 5.6702). 7 pont de confort, semine lat long: 46.1493, 5.8038 walk in: 10 mins, easy Meeting of rivers Valserine and Semine in icy, vivid-lue river pool with each. 6km N of Bellegarde-sur-Valserine on D1084, turn R on D14, dir Montagues. After 2.5km, halfway up hill and efore L end, ear off R on small, unmarked lane. After 1.3km, at corner find footpath on R and follow 100m to the ridge. Continue on path down to meadow and confluence with the Semine. 6a Grottes des Forges a Pertes de la Valserine riverside path egins just opp the stadium at Bellegarde-sur-Valserine. Follow the 2km path past the extraordinary pertes (falls) and the deeply eroded marmites (tus). There is a good, deep section of river aove the weir (46.1206, 5.8242) or cross the footridge and continue down through the gorges. The walk eventually ends close to the station (46.1100, 5.8282). Marmites des Géants are deep, dark pools y a footridge in St-Germain-de- Joux (46.1773, 5.7424). Off D1084, 3km W of Bellegarde-sur-Valserine. c Lac Genin is a very pretty and popular lake (with Auerge E 04 74 75 52 50) off D13 to Oyonnax, 11km NW from St- Germain-de-Joux (46.2205, 5.6974). 24 Jura and the Franche-Comté 25

7 pont de confort 9a montgesoye 6 lac de vouglans Unexpected swimming 26 Jura and the Franche-Comté 27 hole on the Loue

8a Below Source de la Loue 9 10 8 9a Montgesoye to look at the Cascade de la Billaude 4 and the Perte de l Ain 5a, the source of the great Ain is a somewhat inconsequential pool in comparison. What it lacks in drama, however, it makes up for in depth : when the water is clear you can see down into the cave system elow, which links to a complex series of underground siphons and chamers. On particularly dry years when the spring dries up completely, it is possile to descend right down into the heart of these caves. But do keep an eye on the weather: heavy rains can fill up the ayss in a matter of hours. More impressive is the Source du Lison 8, a great cavern in a cliff aove a giant pool. This quiet ut spectacular spot captures the drama of the Jura and its rarely glimpsed suterranean geology. On an altogether larger scale, ut with more tourists and some hydro development, is the famous Source de la Loue 8a. The size of the cave where the water erupts is impressive, ut if you continue downstream for aout 20 minutes, you will almost certainly have the little-known waterfall and pool to yourself (although it is very cold). If you follow the river along its course 10 kilometres downstream, you ll come to a series of pretty riverside villages and towns Mouthier-Haute-Pierre, Montgesoye, Ornans and Cléron which have inspired artists and swimmers for generations. The Lison & the Loue 8 source du lison lat long: 46.9653, 6.0116 walk in: 5 mins, moderate Proaly most famous of the Jura river sources (Dous, Ain, Lison, Loue). A large waterfall pours out of a deep cave in the cliff face with a deep pool eneath. Travel 32km W of Pontarlier on D72, then turn R on D103 and 8km to Nanssous-Ste-Anne, then signed L,1km up to car park. a Source de la Loue Here, the river gushes up out of a giant cave. 12km N of Pontarlier on N57 turn L on D41 to Ouhans then follow signs. A very popular tourist destination and river has also een tamed to generate hydroelectricity, so follow the path downstream 1km, along a wooded gorge, to find a little-known waterfall Le Saut. There is a large, cold pool here to take a refreshing dip (47.0175, 6.2929). 9 mouthier-haute-pierre lat long: 47.0371, 6.2808 walk in: 3 mins, easy Charming village and first of many delightful riverside swims along the course of the Loue. Extended grassy picnic area aove the village weir. Return to the main road N57 and take the D67 to Mouthier. Turn hard L at the end of the village, and follow road 1km down to the river and past the Gîte de Zimmer, and along Chemin de Pois until you reach the riverside and picnic area. a Montgesoye has a deep swimming hole in jade-green water on a end in the river. Continue 13km further along D67 and 50m eyond the end of the village, at a deer warning sign, find short track on L to river 100m (47.0888, 6.1845). Ornans is 4km further on the D67 with a rope course over the river and a set of! riverside tipis (E 03 81 57 10 82). 10 miroir de scey lat long: 47.1020, 6.0789 walk in: 3 mins, easy Pretty park area giving access to a deep corner section of the Loue aove the old weir and mill etween Ornan and Scey- Mesières on D101. a Maisières-Notre-Dame hamlet is just efore the Miroir (and 5km from Ornans). On D101, 600m after hamlet, find track on L at top of hill leading to large open meadow with extensive river ank and an old weir (47.1026, 6.0896). Cléron is 2.5km further on D101/D9. Cross ridge and turn R to clim hill. After 600m turn R down forest track. After 800m find field on R and eautiful river each (47.0963, 6.0570). c Les Forges de Châtillon is 12km downstream (W) on D9/D101 via Rurey (47.0896, 5.9866 ). A popular swimming spot aove a weir. 28 Jura and the Franche-Comté 29