St Kilda Archaeologist s Annual Report 2005

St Kilda Archaeologist s Annual Report 2005 cleit in Gleann Mor CONTENTS 1.0 Executive Summary 2.0 Introduction 3.0 The 2004/2005 Winter Season 4.0 The 2005 Summer Season 5.0 The 2005/2006 Winter Season 6.0 The 2006 Summer Season 7.0 Acknowledgements 8.0 Bibliography Appendix 1 Excavation of the street drain by House 6 Appendix 2 Coastal Erosion Assessment

1.0 Executive Summary This report summarises the work undertaken by the St Kilda Archaeologist for the National Trust for Scotland on the island in the summer of 2005 and off island during the winter of 2004-2005. It will further summarise the work scheduled for the winter of 2005-2006 and summer of 2006. During the summer of 2005 there were six work parties, four undertaking conservation work and two involved in archaeological excavation. The conservation work parties carried out a number of tasks under archaeological supervision that included repairing drystane walls, cleits, cleit roofs and enclosures, and also participating in routine monitoring, as approved by Historic Scotland through the Management Agreement. The archaeological work parties, under the supervision of GUARD, undertook work within the village area around the souterrain. A number of cruise ships and smaller vessels visited the island during the summer. Other work included carrying out a coastal erosion survey in Village Bay, and an excavation across the street by House 6 in advance of drainage works (see Appendices). 2.0 Introduction In 2005 the post of St Kilda Archaeologist was held by Susan Bain, and then subsequently by Samantha Dennis. The post was managed from the NTS Highlands and Islands Office in Inverness, with archaeological advice from Jill Harden, NTS Highlands and Islands Archaeologist. 3.0 The 2004/2005 Winter Season One of the main tasks over the winter was the production of the Annual Report 2004. This report summarises all archaeological work carried out, as well as a coastal erosion assessment, a bracken survey, a summary of House 6 excavations focussing on the drains at the rear and west gable, a survey of nesting birds in structures, and a summary of Dry Burn repairs. In addition to the Annual Report, an internal report reviewing the 2003 upgrade of the St Kilda Museum was produced. The other major tasks over the winter centred on two important upcoming events: i) the reconsideration of the submission for dual World Heritage Site inscription, and ii) the commemoration of the 75 th anniversary of the evacuation of the island on August 29 th, 2005. Susan Bain undertook the research into existing comparative World Heritage Sites. This research, accompanied by images (all with copyright sought), was used in the production of a comparative analysis for the successful submission of St Kilda as a dual World Heritage Site. Considerable energy was also put into developing ideas and specifics Hiort: Islands in the Mind exhibition, Benbecula Page 2

for the commemoration of the 75 th anniversary of the evacuation of the island. Amongst the possible plans were a travelling exhibition for the Western Isles and regions linked with St Kildans post-1930, an exhibition at NTS offices (regional and central), and a travelling film programme. Ultimately, the event was marked by two exhibitions of objects and images of St Kilda (one exhibition held on Benbecula and the other at NTS central office in Edinburgh), and the launch of a traditional mailboat. Portraits of people working on St Kilda today Artefacts on display on Benbecula The remaining time over the winter was spent maintaining and updating the image archive held by the NTS, correcting and enhancing information displayed in the St Kilda museum (replacing panels and adding new information sheets in Gaelic and English), and managing the website. 4.0 The 2005 Summer Season 4.1 Coastal Erosion A survey of the current state of the Village Bay coastline was undertaken with the assistance and guidance of work party 6 team members (Matthew and Lizzie Thomas). The survey was carried out with reference to the text and photographs from Coastal Erosion Village Bay Hirta 2002 (Bain 2003) and St Kilda Archaeologist: Report on Cliff Erosion in Village Bay GUARD 362.4 (Johnstone 1999). Sections of coast featured in the Coastal Erosion Village Bay Hirta 2002 were rephotographed, and sections showing signs of erosion were noted. The survey indicates that 1m of erosion has taken place in the last three years in sections B, E, and F (see Appendix 2 for further details of the survey in 2005). 4.2 Cleit Preservation Project Fifty-nine cleits were visited this season and all were photographed with a new SLR digital camera. The cleits visited were: 823, 826, 827, 171, 172, 173, 933, 1024, 1023, 985, 986, 1000, 1157, 1111, 1066, 1167, 1197, 913, 942, 694, 487, 486, 484, 482, 1192, 1199, 1084, 1063, 168, 743, 774, 757, 800, 810, 442, 446, 479, 480, 488, 492, 493, 686, 695, 708, 917, 318, 314, 313, 307, 260, 258, 254, 288, 634, 638, 639, 776, 105 and 476. The following sixteen cleits showed minimal change (ie. one or two stones had fallen from the exterior walls or roof material had slumped): 1023, 1000, 1157, 1167, 1197, 913, 942, 964, 486, 1199, 800, 442, 446, 488, 492, and 288. Page 3

Stones have slightly shifted at the base of cleit 1000 4.3 Dyke Survey A photographic survey of the drystane walls of Village Bay area was continued, as proposed in 1998 (Johnstone) and commenced in 2003 (Bain 2003). Despite poor weather conditions and lighting, approximately 650m of the head dyke (including interior and exterior faces) was photographed in early September. Work also commenced on photographing walled structures within the village head dyke. During the summer season three planticrubs were fully recorded. Section of head dyke B (Bex 62) 4.4 Work Parties i) The following sections of wall were repaired: Cleits: 4, 12, 18, 34, 89, and 107 Head dyke: along stretch A Enclosure walls: wall north of cleit 4, camping enclosure east of Factor s House, southern manse wall, wall by church, House 2 garden wall, blackhouse J garden wall, wall by blackhouse D, wall by blackhouse K, wall by cleit 10, House 14 garden wall, and wall by cleit 52. Other structures: planticrub north of Factor s House by cleit 15 ii) Repairs to turf roofs were carried out on the following cleits: 14, 35, 42, 50, 68, 106, and 107 Page 4

iii) Members of the work parties noted recent collapse to cleit 168 and cleit 105. These both fall within the secondary area for repair and maintenance, and therefore may be added to the work schedule for 2006. Collapse of cleit 105 Collapse of cleit 168 iv) The stile into the graveyard was removed and construction of a new gate as per the 1930s photographs began. v) Open drains by House 12 and 13 were cleaned out, and mapping work of springs and drains was carried out. vi) vii) Repointing was undertaken on the front elevations of house 13 and a test patch on the east half of the front elevation of house 14 was completed. Excavation was undertaken to the west and east of the main door of the church. This investigation was carried out to confirm whether archaeological layers would be disturbed by the insertion of a drain. No stratified deposits were revealed. A full report will be produced when the drainage work has been carried out. Pointing on House 13 carried out by WP3 viii) ix) Work not carried out: Drystane dyking of the fanks by cleits 126, 154 and 166. Installing new gate to graveyard Repairs to roofs of cleits 34, 71 and 101 A number of archive photographs of St Kilda were taken onto the island this Page 5

summer. Work party members helped identify the location of each shot and then a comparison photograph was taken. This has helped identify buildings in photographs and will form part of a database of information on each building. 4.5 GUARD Excavations This year Glasgow University Archaeological Research Division (GUARD), with assistance from work parties 4 and 5, continued the surveys and limited excavations begun in 2004. The success of last year s geophysical work was built upon by continuing the 0.5m spacing of readings taken using resistivity and magnetometer equipment. The croft land in front of houses 8 and 9 was covered, as well as areas to the north and several significant new anomalies were discovered. Four small trenches were opened over anomalies recorded last year, in areas to the south and east of the souterrain. These exposed a possible trackway and structural remains indicative of domestic use, while a large quantity of coarse hand-made pottery and several stone tools were recovered from the topsoil. The other trench, to the north-east of last year s work, revealed the continuation of the uppermost layers of features. These stone features continue to raise expectations of buried prehistoric structures in this area an exciting proposition for future research. 4.6 Other works 4.6.1 House 6 drain Small-scale excavation relating to the drainage system continued around House 6. A small trench was cut between the south-east corner of House 6 and the south-east corner of the windbreak in order to locate the 1860s drain as it crosses the street. It was intended that opening this drain would provide a duct for an electricity cable leading into the house as well as tie into an improved drainage system around the house (see Appendix 1 for further details). 4.6.2 Watching briefs for QinetiQ Less than an hour was spent watching the excavation of a small trench (1m x 1m, 0.75m depth) outwith the Scheduled Area, immediately west of the visitors information point. This trench was dug to locate and subsequently block a water pipe running to the end of the jetty. 4.6.3 Soay Sheep Project Members of the St Kilda Soay Sheep Project were on Hirta for part of August for the annual catch. As in past years, this involves setting up nets and runs across Village Bay. It is therefore important that there is liaison between the archaeologist and project members. The project leaders ensured that all their staff were aware of the issues and conditions of the Scheduled Monument Consent and ensured that the catch was carried out with no disturbance to the monuments. 4.6.4 Visits Annual visit from representatives of Historic Scotland and National Trust for Scotland to agree upon works to be carried out during the summer season of 2005. Page 6

On the occasion of the commemoration of the 75 th anniversary of the evacuation of the island: Patricia Ferguson MSP (Minister of Tourism, Culture and Sport), Robin Pellew (Chief Executive, NTS), representatives from Historic Scotland, and members of the Press. Norman Gillies and his family visited Hirta on August 25 th.. Norman Gillies was evacuated from St Kilda at the age of 5, and was returning 75 years later with his wife and children for a very memorable day on the island. Tom Morton, conservation architect, visited Hirta to carry out research on the state of preservation of the cleit turf roofs. His research forms part of a survey of soft topping options in Britain and Europe. 4.6.5 QinetiQ Works According to the works schedule consent had been given for improvements to the road, POL, and buildings occupied by QinetiQ. The majority of works focused on improving drainage. At the time of the Archaeologist s departure from the island in September the following works remained outstanding: insertion of new pipes in the Manse and the removal of dead cables around Village Bay. 4.6.6 Research Susan Bain deferred her Churchill Fellowship until the spring of 2006, when visits to Iceland, the Faeroes and Norway will enable a study of turf roofing techniques, in an attempt to improve the methodology applied on St Kilda. 4.7 Island Relations As always, QinetiQ staff provided vital support to the St Kilda Archaeologist throughout the year. This includes providing vital on the ground updates during the winter months, and also safe storage of archives on the island. 4.8 Staff Relations In 2005, the NTS Ranger and Seabird Ranger posts were held by Neil Mitchell and Sarah Money, respectively. There was close liaison on issues that concerned all: work party schedules, construction work specifications and watching briefs, and guided walks. 4.9 Education Guided walks were offered to a variety of visitors to the island, including cruise ships passengers, contractors, researchers and staff. Amongst the larger groups were those from the National Geographic Endeavour, Explorer, Polar Star and Hanseatic. The commemoration of the 75 th anniversary of the evacuation of the island and the nomination of St Kilda as a dual World Heritage Site attracted considerable media coverage. Time and energy was dedicated to interviews and also to organising logistics for a wide range of national and local papers, radio stations, and television crews. Amongst these were: Radio 4 Julian May / Kenneth Stevens BBC 2 Countryfile, broadcast: Sunday August 28 th Radio 4 - A requiem of St Kilda, broadcast: Sunday August 28 th Page 7

5.0 The 2005/6 Winter Season It is anticipated that the winter season off island will be spent - Producing this Annual Report and any other reports relating to the archaeological work carried out on St Kilda. Review information available to the Cleit Preservation Project and develop improved monitoring procedures. Input of data on a structure by structure basis for Sites & Monuments Record, commencing with the cleit data. It is intended that this will link with mapping software for use on the island. Co-ordinating updates and improvements to the web-site Inputting further entries to the photographic database Writing articles for St Kilda Mail and NTS Archaeology Bulletin Updating information sheets for the museum 6.0 The 2006 Summer Season The following tasks are scheduled for next summer: 6.1 Cleit Preservation Programme A work plan outlines regular monitoring of the cleits that, according to the Cleit Preservation Programme, to be actively maintained. Work in 2006 will continue to include visiting assigned cleits, noting damage, and taking photographs. In addition the monitoring process will be reviewed to ensure tighter data results. 6.2 Work Parties The St Kilda Archaeologist will continue to provide guidance and encouragement to the work party leaders. There may be the opportunity to be involved with archaeological research on Hirta. 6.3 House drains and drainage Work will continue on the drainage around House 6 and a new drain will be inserted immediately north-east of the church and schoolroom. 6.4 Rubble Removal Rubble will continue to be removed from identified areas. 6.5 Coastal Erosion In light of the threat to structures such as the Store, the survey of the coastline in Village Bay will continue on an annual basis. 6.6 Dyke Survey Work will continue on the photographing and recording of the head dyke around Village Bay. Page 8

6.7 Historic Photos More work will be done on the comparative analysis of historic photos from the archive. This includes identifying structures and landscape features from archive photographs, noting changes, and re-taking same view photographs. 7.0 Acknowledgements This year the post of St Kilda Archaeologist was held by other NTS archaeologists to bridge the gap between Susan Bain leaving and Samantha Dennis starting. Jill Harden and Robin Turner ensured an efficient and seamless staff transition. A big thank you to Neil Mitchell (St Kilda Ranger) and Sarah Money (St Kilda Seabird Ranger) for helping with fieldwork, providing sanity in hard times and a source of countless good memories. Also thank you to Glyn Young (NTS) for his expert advice and willingness to help us out in stressful times. Our work would not be possible without the enthusiasm of the work party volunteers, leaders and cooks. The excavations and geophysical surveys were conducted by Bob Will, Donna Maguire and Ingrid Shearer. And as always we are grateful to the staff of QinetiQ, Eurest, and Movecon for their logistical support on the island. We would also like to thank everyone who generously offered advice and support this year. 8.0 Bibliography Bain, S. 2003 Coastal Erosion Village Bay Hirta 2002 NTS Johnstone, L. 1999 St Kilda Archaeologist: Report on Cliff Erosion in Village Bay GUARD Page 9