Contents Lonely Planet Publications 9 On the Road 4 East Africa Highlights 5 Destination East Africa 13 Getting Started 14 Itineraries 19 History 25 Culture 31 Environment 52 Safaris 60 Mountain Gorillas 75 Tanzania 81 Highlights 82 Climate & When to Go 82 History 82 The Culture 86 Religion 87 Arts 87 Environment 89 Food & Drink 91 DAR ES SALAAM 92 History 92 Orientation 92 Information 92 Dangers & Annoyances 95 Sights & Activities 95 Dar es Salaam for Children 96 Sleeping 97 Eating 99 Drinking 100 Entertainment 100 Shopping 100 Getting There & Away 100 Getting Around 102 AROUND DAR ES SALAAM 102 Southern Beaches 102 Northern Beaches 103 Pugu Hills 104 Offshore Islands 104 Wildlife & Habitat 105 ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO 121 Zanzibar 122 Around Zanzibar 136 Pemba 142 NORTHEASTERN TA N Z A N I A 147 Bagamoyo 147 Saadani National Park 149 Pangani 151 Tanga 152 Around Tanga 154 Muheza 154 Usambara Mountains 154 Pare Mountains 157 Mkomazi Game Reserve 159 NORTHERN TANZANIA 159 Moshi 159 Machame 164 Marangu 165 Trekking on Mt Kilimanjaro 166 West Kilimanjaro 169 Arusha 170 Around Arusha 179 Arusha National Park 179 Trekking on Mt Meru 182 Lake Manyara National Park 183 Tarangire National Park 185 Serengeti National Park 186 Ngorongoro Conservation Area 190 CENTRAL TANZANIA 195 Dodoma 195 Babati 198 Mt Hanang 199 Kolo-Kondoa Rock Art Sites 199 Kondoa 200 Shinyanga 200 Nzega 200 Singida 200 LAKE VICTORIA 201 Mwanza 201 Around Mwanza 205 Mwanza to Bukoba 206 Rubondo Island National Park 206
10 CONTENTS Bukoba 207 Musoma 209 Lukuba Island 210 WESTERN TANZANIA 210 Tabora 210 Kigoma 213 Ujiji 215 Gombe Stream National Park 215 Mahale Mountains National Park 216 Mpanda 218 Katavi National Park 219 Sumbawanga 221 Kasanga & Kalambo Falls 221 THE SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS 221 Morogoro 221 Mikumi National Park 224 Mikumi 224 Udzungwa Mountains National Park 225 Iringa 226 Around Iringa 229 Ruaha National Park 229 Iringa to Makambako 230 Makambako 231 Mbeya 231 Around Mbeya 233 Tukuyu 233 Kitulo National Park 235 Lake Nyasa 235 Njombe 237 Songea 238 Tunduru 239 SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA 239 Mafia Island 239 Selous Game Reserve 242 Kilwa Masoko 244 Around Kilwa Masoko 246 Lindi 247 Mtwara 247 Mikindani 249 Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park 250 Makonde Plateau & Around 250 TANZANIA DIRECTORY 251 Accommodation 251 Activities 251 Books 252 Business Hours 253 Children 253 Courses 253 Customs 253 Dangers & Annoyances 253 Embassies & Consulates 254 Festivals & Events 255 Holidays 255 Internet Resources 255 Maps 255 Money 255 Telephone 256 Tourist Information 257 Vaccination Certificates 257 Visas 257 Volunteering 257 TRANSPORT IN TANZANIA 257 Getting There & Away 257 Getting Around 263 Kenya 267 Highlights 268 Climate & When to Go 268 History 268 The Culture 272 Sport 274 Religion 275 Arts 275 Environment 275 Food & Drink 279 NAIROBI & AROUND 279 History 280 Orientation 280 Information 280 Dangers & Annoyances 281 Sights 281 Festivals & Events 288 Sleeping 288 Eating 290 Drinking 291 Entertainment 291 Shopping 292 Getting There & Away 293 Getting Around 294 NAIROBI TO THE COAST 294 Amboseli National Park 295 Tsavo West National Park 297 Tsavo East National Park 299 Chyulu Hills National Park 301 Voi 303 THE COAST 303 History 303 Mombasa 305 Shimba Hills National Reserve 313 Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary 313 Tiwi Beach 314 Diani Beach 314 Shimoni & Wasini Island 317 Jumba La Mtwana 319 Kilifi 319 Watamu 320 Mida Creek 321 Arabuko Sokoke Forest Reserve 322 Gede Ruins 322 Malindi 324 Marafa 327 Lamu 328 Shela 334 Islands Around Lamu 334 THE RIFT VALLEY 334 Longonot National Park 335 Naivasha 336 Lake Naivasha 336 Hell s Gate National Park 337 Lake Elmenteita 338 Nakuru 339 Lake Nakuru National Park 340 Lake Bogoria National Reserve 342 Lake Baringo 342 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 343 Nyeri & Around 344 Aberdare National Park 346 Nyahururu (Thomson s Falls) 348 Mt Kenya National Park 349 Naro Moru 356 Nanyuki 357 Ol Pejata Conservancy 358 Meru 358 Meru National Park 359 Chogoria 361 Embu 361 Ol Donyo Sabuk National Park 362 Thika 362 WESTERN KENYA 363 Narok 363 Masai Mara National Reserve 363 Lake Victoria 368 Kisumu 368 Homa Bay 373 Ruma National Park 374 Kisii 374 Kericho 375 Kakamega 376 Kakamega Forest Reserve 376 Eldoret 378 Kitale 380 Saiwa Swamp National Park 381 Mt Elgon National Park 382 NORTHERN KENYA 384 Isiolo to Ethiopia 386 Moyale 392
CONTENTS 11 Maralal to Turkana s Eastern Shore 392 Marich to Turkana s Western Shore 396 Lokichoggio 399 KENYA DIRECTORY 400 Accommodation 400 Activities 401 Business Hours 402 Children 403 Climate 403 Courses 403 Customs 403 Dangers & Annoyances 404 Embassies & Consulates 405 Festivals & Events 405 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 406 Holidays 406 Internet Access 406 Legal Matters 406 Maps 406 Money 407 Photography & Video 407 Post 408 Telephone 408 Time 408 Tourist Information 408 Travellers with Disabilities 408 Visas 409 Women Travellers 409 Work 410 TRANSPORT IN KENYA 410 Getting There & Away 410 Getting Around 412 Uganda 417 Highlights 418 Climate & When to Go 418 History 418 The Culture 423 Sport 424 Religion 424 Arts 424 Environment 425 Food & Drink 426 KAMPALA 427 Orientation 427 Information 429 Dangers & Annoyances 430 Sights & Activities 431 Tours 434 Festivals & Events 434 Sleeping 435 Eating 437 Drinking 440 Entertainment 441 Shopping 442 Getting There & Away 443 Getting Around 443 AROUND KAMPALA 444 Entebbe 444 Along Masaka Road 448 Along Jinja Road 449 EASTERN UGANDA 449 Jinja 451 Around Jinja 456 Tororo 458 Mbale 459 Mt Elgon National Park 462 Sipi Falls 464 Nyero Rockpaintings 466 Soroti 466 Overland to Kidepo Valley National Park 467 Kidepo Valley National Park 469 SOUTHWESTERN UGANDA 470 Fort Portal 471 Around Fort Portal 473 Kasese 479 Rwenzori Mountains National Park 481 Queen Elizabeth National Park 484 Bwindi Impenetrable National Park 488 Kabale 492 Lake Bunyonyi 494 Kisoro 496 Lake Mutanda 499 Mgahinga Gorilla National Park 499 Mbarara 501 Lake Mburo National Park 502 Masaka 503 Ssese Islands 504 NORTHWESTERN U G A N DA 5 07 Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary 507 Masindi 508 Hoima 510 Murchison Falls National Park 511 Budongo Forest Reserve 515 Lake Albert 516 Gulu 517 Arua 519 UGANDA DIRECTORY 520 Accommodation 520 Activities 521 Books 522 Business Hours 523 Children 523 Courses 523 Dangers & Annoyances 523 Discount Cards 524 Embassies & Consulates 524 Holidays 524 Internet Access 524 Internet Resources 525 Maps 525 Money 525 Photography & Video 526 Post 526 Telephone 526 Tourist Information 526 Visas 527 Volunteering 527 TRANSPORT IN UGANDA 527 Getting There & Away 527 Getting Around 531 Detour: Democratic Republic of the Congo 534 Goma 536 Parc National des Virungas 538 TRANSPORT 538 Rwanda 539 Highlights 540 Climate & When to Go 540 History 540 The Culture 544 Sport 547 Religion 547 Arts 547 Environment 547 Food & Drink 548 KIGALI 548 History 549 Orientation 549 Information 551 Festivals & Events 552 Sights 552 Tours 552 Kigali for Children 553 Sleeping 553 Eating 555 Drinking & Entertainment 557 Shopping 557 Getting There & Away 558 Getting Around 558 AROUND KIGALI 558 Nyamata & Ntarama Genocide Memorials 558 NORTHWESTERN RWANDA 559
12 CONTENTS Musanze (Ruhengeri) 559 Parc National des Volcans 562 Gisenyi 572 SOUTHWESTERN RWANDA 576 Huye (Butare) 576 Around Huye 579 Parc National de Nyungwe 579 Cyangugu 583 Kibuye 584 EASTERN RWANDA 585 Parc National de l Akagera 585 RWANDA DIRECTORY 588 Accommodation 588 Activities 588 Books 589 Business Hours 589 Dangers & Annoyances 589 Embassies & Consulates 590 Holidays 590 Internet Access 590 Internet Resources 590 Maps 590 Money 591 Photography 591 Post 591 Telephone 591 Tourist Information 591 Visas 591 Women Travellers 592 Work 592 TRANSPORT IN RWANDA 592 Getting There & Away 592 Getting Around 594 Burundi 595 Climate & When to Go 596 History 596 The Culture 597 Arts 597 Environment 597 Food & Drink 598 Regional Map Contents BUJUMBURA 598 Orientation 598 Information 598 Dangers & Annoyances 598 Sights & Activities 598 Sleeping 598 Eating 599 Drinking & Entertainment 599 Getting There & Away 599 Getting Around 600 BURUNDI DIRECTORY 600 Accommodation 600 Business Hours 600 Dangers & Annoyances 600 Embassies & Consulates 600 Holidays 600 Internet Access 600 Internet Resources 600 Maps 600 Money 600 Post 600 Telephone 601 Time 601 Visas 601 TRANSPORT IN BURUNDI 601 Getting There & Away 601 Getting Around 601 RWANDA p541 BURUNDI p597 UGANDA p419 TANZANIA pp84 5 KENYA p269 East Africa Directory 602 Transport in East Africa 616 Health 626 Language 636 Glossary 642 The Authors 644 Behind the Scenes 646 Index 651 GreenDex 662 Map Legend 664
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